Date   

Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts

DODGEM37@...
 

  Rick;
 
 That's the horn I have. The 2 bolts you are referring to are the ones holding the bracket to the horn body.
 
 I have made fasteners similar to the ones you need by cutting threaded stock to length then turning and threading the smaller thread. Holding was done in a collet which doesn't seem to damage the treads.If you need the hex or square at the end of the larger thread just solder or loc-tite it to the shoulder on the smaller thread.
 
 

In a message dated 07-Apr-14 19:07:11 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

It is this one


On Apr 7, 2014, at 7:00 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I'll look at mine again; maybe I don't have the Autolite horns.
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 18:51:40 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

If you have the AutoLite round back horn with the large bolt at the back the bolts hold the cover on.

Rick

On Apr 7, 2014, at 5:42 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I checked both of my trucks this morning and couldn't see any bolts like this. Where exactly is this bolt on the horn?
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 17:33:17 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: stuck chuck

m. allan noah
 

Sigh, here we go again....

allan


On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 7:03 PM, Garth Fletcher <garth@...> wrote:
 

> Is the counterbore actually there to go over the register boss on the
> spindle? I thought that is what I learned about things that threaded on
> because it actually does the alignment of the item installed on the
> spindle. I'll wait to be corrected on that.

The threads serve to do nothing more than to clamp the chuck to the
spindle. The precise alignment of the chuck to the spindle depends
**entirely** on the register boss fitting precisely into the counterbore.

When you buy backplate they are usually made with an undersized
counterbore. You then mount it backwards on the spindle with a
spacer as Jim B. described to bore it out to the right size for
your lathe spindle. Then you mount it right way around and turn
it to true up the face and sides. Once that is done it should be
dead-on for your lathe, but probably not usable on any other...
--
Garth Fletcher




--
"The truth is an offense, but not a sin"


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts

Rick Lathrop <rickv100@...>
 

On Apr 7, 2014, at 7:00 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I'll look at mine again; maybe I don't have the Autolite horns.
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 18:51:40 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

If you have the AutoLite round back horn with the large bolt at the back the bolts hold the cover on.

Rick

On Apr 7, 2014, at 5:42 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I checked both of my trucks this morning and couldn't see any bolts like this. Where exactly is this bolt on the horn?
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 17:33:17 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: stuck chuck

Garth Fletcher
 

Is the counterbore actually there to go over the register boss on the
spindle? I thought that is what I learned about things that threaded on
because it actually does the alignment of the item installed on the
spindle. I'll wait to be corrected on that.
The threads serve to do nothing more than to clamp the chuck to the
spindle. The precise alignment of the chuck to the spindle depends
**entirely** on the register boss fitting precisely into the counterbore.

When you buy backplate they are usually made with an undersized
counterbore. You then mount it backwards on the spindle with a
spacer as Jim B. described to bore it out to the right size for
your lathe spindle. Then you mount it right way around and turn
it to true up the face and sides. Once that is done it should be
dead-on for your lathe, but probably not usable on any other...
--
Garth Fletcher


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts

DODGEM37@...
 

  Rick;
 
 I'll look at mine again; maybe I don't have the Autolite horns.
 
Denis
 

In a message dated 07-Apr-14 18:51:40 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

If you have the AutoLite round back horn with the large bolt at the back the bolts hold the cover on.

Rick

On Apr 7, 2014, at 5:42 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I checked both of my trucks this morning and couldn't see any bolts like this. Where exactly is this bolt on the horn?
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 17:33:17 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts

Rick Lathrop <rickv100@...>
 

If you have the AutoLite round back horn with the large bolt at the back the bolts hold the cover on.

Rick

On Apr 7, 2014, at 5:42 PM, DODGEM37@... wrote:

  Rick;
 
 I checked both of my trucks this morning and couldn't see any bolts like this. Where exactly is this bolt on the horn?
 
Denis
 
In a message dated 07-Apr-14 17:33:17 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: stuck chuck [3 Attachments]

Flash Gordon
 

Bill,

I think you have it solved. I did not realize they were all different brands. So the stuck chuck was stuck on the register shoulder not the threads. Good lesson for all.

I think it was Alan that got it right.

Ed S


Re: Model 9A, Unique tag riveted to headstock casting

Flash Gordon
 

Nelson,

When you pay the $25, they will send a file to your e-mail with a copy of the card.

http://www.southbendlathe.com/products/serial_numbers

Then Jim B will want to see it so he can add the info to his data base.

Ed S


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts [1 Attachment]

Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
 

Here is a similar one I made a few weeks ago, first pix.

That one is made out of ½” hex stock. It has a ½-13 thread on one end and a 1/8 Pipe thread on the other.

There is a ¼” hole through.

I started by holding the stock. I used a hex 5C collet because I have one. A 3-jaw chuck would have done as well.

I drilled part way through 3/8”. I turned the hex to about 0.498 and ran a ½ die up to the shoulder. I relieved the thread at the shoulder.

I turned the stock around and held it in a ½” collet on the threads.

I center drilled and then drilled through

I ran the pipe die up to the shoulder.

No relief needed.

The pipe threads are slotted and used as a collet on a ¼” shank.

 

This is a short deburing tool used to remove the burs from some holes I drilled in the MG rear fenders.

 

 

Jim B.


From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...] On Behalf Of Rick Lathrop
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 5:33 PM
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts [1 Attachment]

 

 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: Model 9A, Unique tag riveted to headstock casting

Flash Gordon
 


At 04:58 PM 4/7/2014, you wrote:


Ed,  Would be worth the $25 to know who took possession from the factory.  Do you have a url or phone number or snail mail address?  TKS to all who provided feedback.  No other unique markings that I have found so far.  

Nelson


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed S
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE
Sent: Mon, Apr 7, 2014 1:01 pm
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Model 9A, Unique tag riveted to headstock casting


If you want to spend $25, you can get the build card for South Bend
and it  will tell you who ordered the lathe.

Ed S


At 12:48 PM 4/7/2014, you wrote:
>Probably a US military tag. The US Navy would also often stamp
>somewhere on a non-critical but visible machined surface an anchor
>with a U and S on either side of it. (A well known example is on the
>end of the beds of the Wade 8A lathes, next the the serial number.)
>
>F86... I can pretty well say for certain it's not a Saber jet
>fighter from the 1950's. ;-)




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Re: stuck chuck

Bemac502000
 

Thanks Jim that's a great idea.
Bill


On Apr 7, 2014, at 5:22 PM, "Jim B." <btdtrf@...> wrote:

 

You can make a spacer.
A bit thicker than the depth of the registration bore. It would clear the threads and be a tight fit on the spindle registration step. The two faces should be parallel.

You slip the spacer on the spindle and then screw the face plate on BACKWORDS. Now you can machine the registration bore

Jim B

Sent from my RAZR.


Re: stuck chuck [1 Attachment]

Bemac502000
 

Thanks for the ideas and info Walter and Paolo.
Bill


On Apr 7, 2014, at 4:58 PM, "Starlight Tool Services Ltd" <starlight_tools@...> wrote:

 



The register was different on all the brands!  Each brand had it's own proprietary register size, to make sure their bit were not interchangable with somebody elses.  If they are Atlas / Craftsman, you will have to rebore the register to fit your lathe.
 
Hopefully this comes through, it is a chart on various spindle / register sizes.
 
Walter
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 1:42 PM
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] stuck chuck [3 Attachments]

<photo-2.JPG>
Hi ED these are the pics of the face plate, 4 jaw chuck, nose protector in that order. The nose protector has a small counterbore in it so does the face plate I think both might have been from Craftsman or Atlas lathes but said 1-1/2 8 TPI so I didn't think they would be a problem.
I can fix the nose protector easily the big face plate might be tricky finding a way to hold it anyway thanks again for all the help guys. I am also very glad I won't need to chase the spindle threads…lol
Bill


Re: stuck chuck [3 Attachments]

soupy1951ca
 

Is the counterbore actually there to go over the register boss on the spindle? I thought that is what I learned about things that threaded on because it actually does the alignment of the item installed on the spindle. I'll wait to be corrected on that.
 
Mike from Canada


On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 4:42 PM, <bemac502000@...> wrote:

Hi ED these are the pics of the face plate, 4 jaw chuck, nose protector in that order. The nose protector has a small counterbore in it so does the face plate I think both might have been from Craftsman or Atlas lathes but said 1-1/2 8 TPI so I didn't think they would be a problem.
I can fix the nose protector easily the big face plate might be tricky finding a way to hold it anyway thanks again for all the help guys. I am also very glad I won't need to chase the spindle threads…lol
Bill



--

“People that know they are important think about others, people that think they are important, think about themselves.” – Hans F. Hansen

 

Learn from the mistakes of others, you might not live long enough to make them all yourself!!!


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts [1 Attachment]

DODGEM37@...
 

  Rick;
 
 I checked both of my trucks this morning and couldn't see any bolts like this. Where exactly is this bolt on the horn?
 
Denis
 

In a message dated 07-Apr-14 17:33:17 Eastern Daylight Time, rickv100@... writes:
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: Need advice on making AutoLite horn bolts

Rick Lathrop <rickv100@...>
 

Here is a picture of the bolt

Rick


Re: stuck chuck

Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
 

You can make a spacer.
A bit thicker than the depth of the registration bore. It would clear the threads and be a tight fit on the spindle registration step. The two faces should be parallel.

You slip the spacer on the spindle and then screw the face plate on BACKWORDS. Now you can machine the registration bore

Jim B

Sent from my RAZR.


Re: stuck chuck [3 Attachments]

Paolo Amedeo
 

Bill,
For the face plate you can use something that can be mounted on one side in the 4-jaw chuck, faced nicely on the opposite end, and mounted on the plate.
One thing that comes to my mind right now would be a short piece of 1" pipe screwed tightly to a mounting flange: you face off the flange and mount the face plate to it.
The largest diameter pipe that can be grabbed by the whole length of the jaws and the shortest possible protrusion from the chuck the better.

Alternatively, you could remove the jaws from the 4-jaw chuck, fit the head of four bolts into the grooves of the jaws and mount the plate directly there. Be careful not to over-tight the bolts, otherwise you risk to ruin the chuck (if possible, use brass screws, definitely not high-strength bolts).

Paolo
Damascus, MD
 

On 04/07/2014 04:42 PM, bemac502000@... wrote:

Hi ED these are the pics of the face plate, 4 jaw chuck, nose protector in that order. The nose protector has a small counterbore in it so does the face plate I think both might have been from Craftsman or Atlas lathes but said 1-1/2 8 TPI so I didn't think they would be a problem.
I can fix the nose protector easily the big face plate might be tricky finding a way to hold it anyway thanks again for all the help guys. I am also very glad I won't need to chase the spindle threads…lol
Bill


Re: Model 9A, Unique tag riveted to headstock casting

Nfwood
 

Ed,  Would be worth the $25 to know who took possession from the factory.  Do you have a url or phone number or snail mail address?  TKS to all who provided feedback.  No other unique markings that I have found so far.  

Nelson


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed S
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE
Sent: Mon, Apr 7, 2014 1:01 pm
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Model 9A, Unique tag riveted to headstock casting

If you want to spend $25, you can get the build card for South Bend
and it  will tell you who ordered the lathe.

Ed S


At 12:48 PM 4/7/2014, you wrote:
>Probably a US military tag. The US Navy would also often stamp
>somewhere on a non-critical but visible machined surface an anchor
>with a U and S on either side of it. (A well known example is on the
>end of the beds of the Wade 8A lathes, next the the serial number.)
>
>F86... I can pretty well say for certain it's not a Saber jet
>fighter from the 1950's. ;-)




------------------------------------

--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/SouthBendLatheFAQ.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
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Re: stuck chuck [3 Attachments]

Starlight Tool Services Ltd <starlight_tools@...>
 


The register was different on all the brands!  Each brand had it's own proprietary register size, to make sure their bit were not interchangable with somebody elses.  If they are Atlas / Craftsman, you will have to rebore the register to fit your lathe.
 
Hopefully this comes through, it is a chart on various spindle / register sizes.
 
Walter

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 1:42 PM
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] stuck chuck [3 Attachments]


Hi ED these are the pics of the face plate, 4 jaw chuck, nose protector in that order. The nose protector has a small counterbore in it so does the face plate I think both might have been from Craftsman or Atlas lathes but said 1-1/2 8 TPI so I didn't think they would be a problem.
I can fix the nose protector easily the big face plate might be tricky finding a way to hold it anyway thanks again for all the help guys. I am also very glad I won't need to chase the spindle threads…lol
Bill


Re: stuck chuck

Bemac502000
 

Hi I just posted the photos on the site. Thanks Jim for letting me know how to do that.
Bill

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