1. SouthBendLathe@groups.io
  2. Messages
   Date   
Starrett Indicator part

Payson
 

Hi everyone. I need a pinion and spring for a Last Word. Anyone have a resource? Starrett seems to be useless.

Thanks,

Payson.
Re: Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

Bill in OKC too
 

Come on, Animal, I got his initials right! ;)  https://www.wswells.com/index.html

Thanks!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 12:30:37 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:


        Steve Wells

        animal

On 9/14/2022 4:12 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:
If you're in the USA, try Home Depot/Lowes, or other hardware stores. IIRC, Steve Webb's site has a list of common hardware items cross-referenced to SB part numbers, and you might find that spring listed there, as well. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, September 13, 2022 at 11:14:39 PM CDT, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:


I'd like to replace the large tension spring on my 10k -- this is the lathe that went through a fire, and it seems that the spring isn't returning quite like it should. It surely tempered in the fire (it was hot enough to melt the babbitt in other parts of the lathe).

Regardless of my wisdom (or lack there of) in rebuilding this machine, I would like to replace this part, since the lathe turns within the tolerances I currently care about.

I'm not sure how to find or replace this spring, though.  This is the part for the *heavy* 10: 


but it's clearly too long for my light 10 (by about an inch).

I haven't found any springs that look like suitable replacements on McMaster Carr, and I'm not sure where else to look.

Thanks!
Rogan
Re: Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

mike allen
 

        Steve Wells

        animal

On 9/14/2022 4:12 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

If you're in the USA, try Home Depot/Lowes, or other hardware stores. IIRC, Steve Webb's site has a list of common hardware items cross-referenced to SB part numbers, and you might find that spring listed there, as well. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, September 13, 2022 at 11:14:39 PM CDT, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:


I'd like to replace the large tension spring on my 10k -- this is the lathe that went through a fire, and it seems that the spring isn't returning quite like it should. It surely tempered in the fire (it was hot enough to melt the babbitt in other parts of the lathe).

Regardless of my wisdom (or lack there of) in rebuilding this machine, I would like to replace this part, since the lathe turns within the tolerances I currently care about.

I'm not sure how to find or replace this spring, though.  This is the part for the *heavy* 10: 


but it's clearly too long for my light 10 (by about an inch).

I haven't found any springs that look like suitable replacements on McMaster Carr, and I'm not sure where else to look.

Thanks!
Rogan
Re: Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

Rogan Creswick
 

Thanks!

I don't know what I was measuring last night, but I checked again, and the spring on ebay does look right, so I'm just going with that.

Thank you!
--Rogan

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 11:11 PM wlw19958 <wlw-19958@...> wrote:
Hi There,

According to my parts manuals, the tension spring is the same
for 9 inch, 10K, Heavy Ten and Thirteen models (PT2638NT2).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb

Need parts for 10L Heavy collet setup

Greg
 

Good morning all. Anybody out there happen to have a 5C collet spindle adapter sleeve, OR a spindle thread nose protector, OR a yoke bracket for the lever type collet closer that they are dying to sell off? My 10L has the larger spindle of 1.600". (I don't know if that's important or not.) I have the lever collet closer & 5C collets, but am missing the above listed parts. Somebody on this forum suggested that I trade my (partially complete) lever type closer for a complete manual type closer but I haven't found anyone wanting to trade yet. If anybody out there has any of the listed parts, advise. Trying to avoid the eBay sharks and their prices. Thanks, Greg
Re: Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

Bill in OKC too
 

If you're in the USA, try Home Depot/Lowes, or other hardware stores. IIRC, Steve Webb's site has a list of common hardware items cross-referenced to SB part numbers, and you might find that spring listed there, as well. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, September 13, 2022 at 11:14:39 PM CDT, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:


I'd like to replace the large tension spring on my 10k -- this is the lathe that went through a fire, and it seems that the spring isn't returning quite like it should. It surely tempered in the fire (it was hot enough to melt the babbitt in other parts of the lathe).

Regardless of my wisdom (or lack there of) in rebuilding this machine, I would like to replace this part, since the lathe turns within the tolerances I currently care about.

I'm not sure how to find or replace this spring, though.  This is the part for the *heavy* 10: 


but it's clearly too long for my light 10 (by about an inch).

I haven't found any springs that look like suitable replacements on McMaster Carr, and I'm not sure where else to look.

Thanks!
Rogan
Re: Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

According to my parts manuals, the tension spring is the same
for 9 inch, 10K, Heavy Ten and Thirteen models (PT2638NT2).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
Looking for a large UMD spring for a light 10 (10k)

Rogan Creswick
 

I'd like to replace the large tension spring on my 10k -- this is the lathe that went through a fire, and it seems that the spring isn't returning quite like it should. It surely tempered in the fire (it was hot enough to melt the babbitt in other parts of the lathe).

Regardless of my wisdom (or lack there of) in rebuilding this machine, I would like to replace this part, since the lathe turns within the tolerances I currently care about.

I'm not sure how to find or replace this spring, though.  This is the part for the *heavy* 10: 


but it's clearly too long for my light 10 (by about an inch).

I haven't found any springs that look like suitable replacements on McMaster Carr, and I'm not sure where else to look.

Thanks!
Rogan
Re: Cross slide question

Don Verdiani
 

Thanks for the suggestions. It turned out to be simple. The double nuts/bushings/bearings at the end of the taper attachment shaft were all gunked up with oxidized oil and a little swarf. They were not on my physical (or mental) lube list. Cleaned them up and everything is once again fine!

 

Thanks, group!

 

Don
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

Rick
 

Nice John!  I'd say you did good.
Re: Cross slide question

Andrei
 

Take it apart and check. It could be gunk, swarf, mods from prior owner, or just plain ol'e backlash. Can't be sure until it is all in pieces on your workbench and thoroughly cleaned up. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of mike allen <animal@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2022 6:30 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cross slide question
 

        Is the top handle on the taper attachment loose ?  Maybe it might be time to pull the cross-slide & clean things out ?

        animal

On 9/7/2022 3:15 PM, Don Verdiani wrote:

I am working on a mystery,and thought I would ask you all before I start taking things apart. It’s a Heavy 10 with taper attachment, large dials, thrust washers installed, etc.. When I make an adjustment with the cross slide moving “in”, everything is nice and smooth, predictable, and I get the cut I expect. When I make an adjustment “out” (away from centerline). It feels like there is a rubber washer in the someplace. The dial springs back a couple thousands from where I want it to be, and the cut is imprecise, so I have to be careful, and take small moves to get the required dimension. I have a feeling it has something to do with the taper attachment, but I don’t remember it being there when I installed the taper attachment several years ago. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for?

 

Don Verdiani

Pennsylvania
Re: Cross slide question

Retired Gunsmith
 

Also, check that the compound screw is also moving out, or you get the backlash in the compound added to the backlash in the cross slide.

Thanx and Good Shootin'
Derrick Martin
ask_derrick@...


-----Original Message-----
From: m. allan noah <kitno455@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Sent: Wed, Sep 7, 2022 3:49 pm
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cross slide question

Sounds like regular old backlash to me. Are you turning an internal feature when you feed outward?

allan

On Wed, Sep 7, 2022 at 6:15 PM Don Verdiani <DLVerdiani@...> wrote:
I am working on a mystery,and thought I would ask you all before I start taking things apart. It’s a Heavy 10 with taper attachment, large dials, thrust washers installed, etc.. When I make an adjustment with the cross slide moving “in”, everything is nice and smooth, predictable, and I get the cut I expect. When I make an adjustment “out” (away from centerline). It feels like there is a rubber washer in the someplace. The dial springs back a couple thousands from where I want it to be, and the cut is imprecise, so I have to be careful, and take small moves to get the required dimension. I have a feeling it has something to do with the taper attachment, but I don’t remember it being there when I installed the taper attachment several years ago. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for?
 
Don Verdiani
Pennsylvania


--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

comstock_friend
 

On Wed, Sep 7, 2022 at 03:41 AM, Rick wrote:
If you have room, look for a bigger lathe.  The smaller SB lathes bring a premium because they are easy to move, but the SB13 and up can frequently be found for less money, as many are intimidated by the weight.  I bought a SB13 a few years ago to pair with my SB9A that I’ve had for many years.
I also went bigger. My 13" with D1-4 Camlock spindle, taper attachment, flame hardened bed, 3 and 4 jaw chucks (SB and Buck), KDK tool block and holders, etc. Came with a Bridgeport J head, also nicely tooled, DRO, Kurt vise, Servo power feed, etc, for $5,000 for the pair about five years ago. Yeah, I'd love a gear head, but these look like they will be my forever machines...

John
Re: Cross slide question

m. allan noah
 

Sounds like regular old backlash to me. Are you turning an internal feature when you feed outward?

allan


On Wed, Sep 7, 2022 at 6:15 PM Don Verdiani <DLVerdiani@...> wrote:

I am working on a mystery,and thought I would ask you all before I start taking things apart. It’s a Heavy 10 with taper attachment, large dials, thrust washers installed, etc.. When I make an adjustment with the cross slide moving “in”, everything is nice and smooth, predictable, and I get the cut I expect. When I make an adjustment “out” (away from centerline). It feels like there is a rubber washer in the someplace. The dial springs back a couple thousands from where I want it to be, and the cut is imprecise, so I have to be careful, and take small moves to get the required dimension. I have a feeling it has something to do with the taper attachment, but I don’t remember it being there when I installed the taper attachment several years ago. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for?

 

Don Verdiani

Pennsylvania



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
Re: Cross slide question

mike allen
 

        Is the top handle on the taper attachment loose ?  Maybe it might be time to pull the cross-slide & clean things out ?

        animal

On 9/7/2022 3:15 PM, Don Verdiani wrote:

I am working on a mystery,and thought I would ask you all before I start taking things apart. It’s a Heavy 10 with taper attachment, large dials, thrust washers installed, etc.. When I make an adjustment with the cross slide moving “in”, everything is nice and smooth, predictable, and I get the cut I expect. When I make an adjustment “out” (away from centerline). It feels like there is a rubber washer in the someplace. The dial springs back a couple thousands from where I want it to be, and the cut is imprecise, so I have to be careful, and take small moves to get the required dimension. I have a feeling it has something to do with the taper attachment, but I don’t remember it being there when I installed the taper attachment several years ago. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for?

 

Don Verdiani

Pennsylvania
Cross slide question

Don Verdiani
 

I am working on a mystery,and thought I would ask you all before I start taking things apart. It’s a Heavy 10 with taper attachment, large dials, thrust washers installed, etc.. When I make an adjustment with the cross slide moving “in”, everything is nice and smooth, predictable, and I get the cut I expect. When I make an adjustment “out” (away from centerline). It feels like there is a rubber washer in the someplace. The dial springs back a couple thousands from where I want it to be, and the cut is imprecise, so I have to be careful, and take small moves to get the required dimension. I have a feeling it has something to do with the taper attachment, but I don’t remember it being there when I installed the taper attachment several years ago. Any thoughts on what I should be looking for?

 

Don Verdiani

Pennsylvania
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

Steven Schlegel
 

Beautiful!

 

Sent from Mail for Windows

 

From: Rick
Sent: Wednesday, September 7, 2022 3:41 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Opinions on Heavy 10 value

 

If you have room, look for a bigger lathe.  The smaller SB lathes bring a premium because they are easy to move, but the SB13 and up can frequently be found for less money, as many are intimidated by the weight.  I bought a SB13 a few years ago to pair with my SB9A that I’ve had for many years.  Since it was going into my basement, I used the opportunity to take it all apart, degrease and strip all paint.  I did one subassembly at a time, then reassembled in the basement.  I replaced all the felts, bronze bushings, bought a new compound nut and made a new compound screw for it.  Took about 3 months to have it up and running again.

 
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

Rick
 

If you have room, look for a bigger lathe.  The smaller SB lathes bring a premium because they are easy to move, but the SB13 and up can frequently be found for less money, as many are intimidated by the weight.  I bought a SB13 a few years ago to pair with my SB9A that I’ve had for many years.  Since it was going into my basement, I used the opportunity to take it all apart, degrease and strip all paint.  I did one subassembly at a time, then reassembled in the basement.  I replaced all the felts, bronze bushings, bought a new compound nut and made a new compound screw for it.  Took about 3 months to have it up and running again.
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

Filson
 

There is a Heavy 10 on eBay right now for $3,250. It’s in Connecticut. A lot newer, tooling, and I assume closer than MN. 

The QC on the lathe you are looking is a turn off deal breaker for me. And yes, it certainly looks like a project. At the end of the day you still have a lathe with limited ability. Unlike the newer Heavy 10. 
Re: Opinions on Heavy 10 value

Bill in OKC too
 

I have to disagree with you, Andrei. Not about its  value, but because its name is a lie. It would be a lite 10. It's a bit over half the weight of my 10L, and the spindle bore is smaller, too. 1.358" vs. the 1.375" of my 10L. It might be a really nice small lathe, but it's badly overpriced and not nearly as well equipped. They have a 12x36 gunsmith lathe that would be a much better buy for about $6000.

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, September 6, 2022 at 02:23:33 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


Guys, don't get too excited about the Grizzly South Bend lathe. The only thing it has in common with other South Bend lathes is the name. 

This is a Taiwanese design of a lathe that has some similarities to the old lathes, but it is thoroughly modern with a price twice its worth because of the South Bend name tag on it. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 3:16 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Opinions on Heavy 10 value
 
The new version of the South Bend  Heavy 10L from Grizzly is $10k, the steady & follower rests, and a 5C chuck are about another $1300, together. No taper attachment listed. The stand is another $2200 or so, plus more shipping.

 Back a few years ago when I bought my restoration project Heavy 10L for a grand, I got the lathe, two 5C collet closers, 2 single tumbler gear boxes, a taper attachment and both regular and turret tail stocks, and a butt-load of work to do to get it running again, sometime in the future. If I'm lucky and get to keep working on it. I appreciate the desire to buy one ready to operate. 

Back then, an operating SB Heavy 10 L was running around $3-4k on eBay. Plus a road trip to collect it. I live in an area where large machines are readily available, but that's not what I'm looking for. Good luck finding what you want at a price you can afford.

Bill in OKC 

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. 
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, September 6, 2022 at 07:49:07 AM CDT, Agent via groups.io <markerichoffman@...> wrote:


Mel,

It is not a variable speed drive.  I got the serial number from him, but not the catalog number so there is some info I don't have.  The lathe is hooked up, fully functioning and everything works.  Obviously I dont know how worn it is, the Ways look good, cant speak to the running gear.  He messaged me back this weekend and I told him best of luck, but 3K was too much and he asked "What would you offer?"  I told him closer to 2K and he said "what if you meet me in the middle"

So, I'm thinking $2200-$2300 if I show up with cash and a trailer.  He is 2-1/2 hours away, so easily just half a day round trip.  The problem is, the more I think about it, this becomes another project rather then something plug n play.  I have a Mill and a bandsaw waiting in the wings. 

Assuming everything checks out, at best, the lathe needs a very good cleaning.  It was a Navy lathe, the paint is gone on most of the lathe and the steel base, I'm guessing from exposure to elements. The base is rusty and would need to be addressed for sure, its starting to pit

I found a clean, well tooled Heavy 10, but its 1100 miles away up in St. Paul.  I'm waiting on a shipping quote from UShip.

Other than in the rust belt, I'm not sure where people are buying Heavy10s for 2K that are in good shape and well tooled.  I think the best course for me is up my budget to $3.5 K with the likely hood I will need something shipped or take a decent road trip.

I really do just want to buy and plug a machine in for a change



On Monday, September 5, 2022 at 10:59:12 AM EDT, Mel Gross <melgross@...> wrote:


It would be very odd for this to have a reeves drive. 3k does seem to be too much. The tooling has a lot of unnecessary parts such as many wrenches. I wouldn’t accept much of that as actual tooling. It’s just random. What’s the size of the nose, 1 7/8” or 2 1/4”?

Mel


On Sep 2, 2022, at 1:07 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:



        That seems pretty high to me . It's a older single tumble QCGB . I don't know how far the drive is , but if you do go to look at it take some indicators & stands with you & see what   you can

        measure as far as spindle run-out , & hi-low spots on the bed . I can't tell by the pic's if it has the variable speed drive . Those get expensive to repair , check movement of all the drive parts       

        for play . Make sure if it is a reeves drive that it runs smoothly through the speed changes . Take some material & make a test bar to measure if the head-stock is aligned with the bed &

        tailstock . There's a bunch of tubes on what to look for / at when buying a lathe . Take some measurements , do some tests .

        https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=what+to+look+for+when+buying+a+used+metal+lathe+

        good luck

        animal

       

On 9/2/2022 4:24 AM, Agent via groups.io wrote:
Gentleman,

Always appreciate the collective wisdom here.  Looking at a 1946, I believe 10L with UMD, the stand is the steel type with the U shaped legs. It is a Navy ship lathe I'm told, it has the J.A.N and L.Q.R inspection stamps on the bed in the serial number area.  Other than the "ugly", what would be a fair price to pay for a unit like this?  Asking price is 3K, it has 3 and 4 Jaw chucks, Taper, Radius and Milling attachments, steady rest, follow rest, some misc backplates, dogs, ect.  No Collet setup and no QCTP.  I had him send me a couple pics of the Ways and I don't see an apparent ridge, but always hard with photos.  There is a road trip involved so I cant inspect in advance.  Thanks for the help, have a good upcoming weekend
701 - 720 of 107480