Date   

Re: Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k

Mel Gross
 

Obviously the bearing is too thick. I don’t like the idea of taking the cast iron lever down. If you really want to keep the bearing, my suggestion is to take the nut down a bit at the rear - away from the bearing. You can do that with a mill if you have no way to machine it if it’s off the lathe.

Mel


On Sep 26, 2022, at 8:50 PM, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:


I don't know that I have the right terms here, but hopefully with pictures they suffice.


My lathe went through a fire, and all the felt brunt up, including the felt washer that went between the spindle take-up nit and the casting.  I replaced it with the suggested fix I found on line at the time, which was a thin needle bearing and two thin hardened washers.  You can see these in the picture.

Now, I've just reassembled everything, and the lever that engages the gearbox won't seat properly in the casting because the take-up nut is further out from the casting than it was with the felt washer.

I can imagine any number of solutions here, but I'd like your suggestions.

Thanks!
Rogan


PXL_20220926_211757057.jpg


Re: Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k

m. allan noah
 

One side of the takeup nut has to stay true to the spindle, the other does not. I would take a skim cut only on the outer side.

allan


On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 9:26 PM Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
I’d probably just machine a little off the lever.  Option two would be to take a face cut off the nut. If I was to take it off the nut, I would take 1/2 off each side of the nut to keep it symmetrical.



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"


Re: Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k

Rick
 

I’d probably just machine a little off the lever.  Option two would be to take a face cut off the nut. If I was to take it off the nut, I would take 1/2 off each side of the nut to keep it symmetrical.


Spindle take-up bearing interference with the gearbox engagement lever on my 10k

Rogan Creswick
 

I don't know that I have the right terms here, but hopefully with pictures they suffice.


My lathe went through a fire, and all the felt brunt up, including the felt washer that went between the spindle take-up nit and the casting.  I replaced it with the suggested fix I found on line at the time, which was a thin needle bearing and two thin hardened washers.  You can see these in the picture.

Now, I've just reassembled everything, and the lever that engages the gearbox won't seat properly in the casting because the take-up nut is further out from the casting than it was with the felt washer.

I can imagine any number of solutions here, but I'd like your suggestions.

Thanks!
Rogan



Re: Make a new yoke bracket for collet closer

Greg
 

Hey Jim, thanks for the pics and info. That will be a lot of help if I end up making one!! Greg


On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 7:14 PM Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:
More pictures available if needed.


Jim B,

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 7:12 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:
>
> 
>
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> Jim B,
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> --
> Jim B
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--
Jim B






Re: Make a new yoke bracket for collet closer

Jim_B
 

More pictures available if needed.


Jim B,

On Sep 26, 2022, at 7:12 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:






Jim B,

--
Jim B




--
Jim B


Make a new yoke bracket for collet closer

Jim_B
 

Jim B,

--
Jim B


I got a lever closer a couple years ago without the gear or the support arm.docx

Jim_B
 

This may give you an idea.




Jim B,

--
Jim B


Re: Make a new yoke bracket for collet closer

sblatheman
 

I have one for sale.
Send me an email.
Latheman2@...
Ted

On Sep 26, 2022, at 6:28 PM, Greg <condor6213@...> wrote:

I have been having a lot of trouble locating the yoke bracket I need for my 10L Heavy lever collet closer. I occasionally see a 5C collet adapter sleeve as well as the spindle nose thread protector that I need on eBay, but to date I have yet to run across a yoke bracket. So I am thinking of trying to make one. BUT, not having anything other than pictures to go by makes that equally difficult. Any chance anybody out there has a drawing that shows the dimensions and accurate angles for this thing? I have little doubt the original was made from cast iron which is not an option. But I could acquire the needed steel bar and go with it from there. With the cost of stock material & delivery these days, I really don't want to burn through a few copies trying to get the dimensions & angles right. Thanks, Greg


Make a new yoke bracket for collet closer

Greg
 

I have been having a lot of trouble locating the yoke bracket I need for my 10L Heavy lever collet closer. I occasionally see a 5C collet adapter sleeve as well as the spindle nose thread protector that I need on eBay, but to date I have yet to run across a yoke bracket. So I am thinking of trying to make one. BUT, not having anything other than pictures to go by makes that equally difficult. Any chance anybody out there has a drawing that shows the dimensions and accurate angles for this thing? I have little doubt the original was made from cast iron which is not an option. But I could acquire the needed steel bar and go with it from there. With the cost of stock material & delivery these days, I really don't want to burn through a few copies trying to get the dimensions & angles right. Thanks, Greg


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

comstock_friend
 

Thank you very much Rogan! That should do it!

John


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Rogan Creswick
 

I took some quick measurements of mine, it's currently disassembled, but I may put it back together tonight, if I'm lucky.

Let me know if you need other dimensions, as soon as possible!

I don't have a good way to measure the angle between the two threaded holes, and I haven't checked the thread pitch of the set screws.

I don't think the angle matters much, it looks like roughly 60 degrees.

--Rogan 


On Sun, Sep 18, 2022, 10:53 AM comstock_friend <jfriend314@...> wrote:
The group seems to be resizing photos. Here's a pdf so you can read the exploded view. See second page of pdf...

John


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

comstock_friend
 

The group seems to be resizing photos. Here's a pdf so you can read the exploded view. See second page of pdf...

John


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

comstock_friend
 

The 'linkage' is just a straight bar that the belt cover pushes down on the p/n 24 Bracket.

Can one of you measure the width and diameter of the p/n 43 collar? For some reason, mine is missing. Seems to still work without it, but I don't think it is correct.

John


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Rogan Creswick
 

Thanks for the extra pictures! I am missing the linkage from the cover to the safety interlock, but at least that interlock part makes sense now...


On Sat, Sep 17, 2022, 4:23 PM Daniel White via groups.io <dannya1a=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
yes there is a draw bar that is required to use the collets as well as a threaded end protector/cap


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Daniel White
 

yes there is a draw bar that is required to use the collets as well as a threaded end protector/cap


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Don
 

Daniel, I have pretty much all of the same accessories. Only have a handfull of the 6c collets, Do I need a drawbar with those as I noticed they are threaded

On Saturday, September 17, 2022 at 04:08:28 PM EDT, Daniel White via groups.io <dannya1a@...> wrote:


glad it helped you get it sorted out. i know mine works well. I also have the 10k cabinet 4 ft or so bed. got the 3 and 4 jaw chucks. the blank face plate. a few dogs. steady rest. taper attachment and full 6k collet set.


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Daniel White
 

glad it helped you get it sorted out. i know mine works well. I also have the 10k cabinet 4 ft or so bed. got the 3 and 4 jaw chucks. the blank face plate. a few dogs. steady rest. taper attachment and full 6k collet set.


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

Don
 

Thank's guys. Got it working. Now for a new belt.EmojiEmoji

On Saturday, September 17, 2022 at 02:48:22 PM EDT, wlw19958 <wlw-19958@...> wrote:


[Edited Message Follows]

Hi There, 

Daniel,  I see that the collar on the safety interlock is
in the wrong position.  It should be in about the middle
so that when the end gear cover is open, the flare on
the cover presses down on the collar (and thus the rod)
and prevents the drive from engaging.

 Also, this prevents the end gear cover from being opened
when the drive is engaged


Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: Help with my 10K UMD

wlw19958
 
Edited

Hi There, 

Daniel,  I see that the collar on the safety interlock is
in the wrong position.  It should be in about the middle
so that when the end gear cover is open, the flare on
the cover presses down on the collar (and thus the rod)
and prevents the drive from engaging.

 Also, this prevents the end gear cover from being opened
when the drive is engaged

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb