Thanks for all the suggestions, you guys are brilliant. First thing in the morning off I go to the engineers shop and see if I can find out exactly what I'm talking about. Seems to me that it could

Oh. Dave will shut up now.... :-)

wrote: No Dave the problem is the chuck itself hits the spindle before the taper engages properly.

--- In southbendlathe@..., "walpick55" <walpick@p...> wrote: Before cutting or reaming or defacing any part of the lathe,you should identify each of the tapers that you are dealing

Don't do that until you try other tapers in the tail stock, Morse taper to Jacob taper are fairly inexpensive compared to fixing a butcherd up tail stock ram. John Meacham In the high desert of

That is right way to do it. On standard morse tapers (not on most lathe tail stocks and head stocks) there is a slot near the narrow end. You drive a wedge into the slot to pop out the taper drill,

The tang does serve to kick the arbor out. If the spindle is an odd size, like the Heavy 10 you can make up an adapter. I picked up an unhardened 3 to 5 morse sleeve and recut the outside to the

It would most likely wobble a bit. The tailstock doesn't lock the tang like a morse taper drill arbor. If it slips you begin to wear the tailstock socket unevenly. It would take a lot of slipping to

No, you shouldn't have to. I agree with Scott Logan in that the spindle taper is oversized. I think his suggestions to correct the problem are ideal. But if you're on a budget like many of us, I

But if you removed the material from the tang (with the given the chuck arbor has a tang), wouldn't it work?

Yes, but shouldn't have too. Turn arbor intailstock see if there is a slot in there for the tang to go into. If notcut tang off. Duane

----- Original Message ----- From: Rita Kinard& Duane McGuire To: southbendlathe@... Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 4:51 PM Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Re: Tailstock taperquestion Point taken. #9

Point taken. #9 SB should take a #2 morse intailstock. Duane

No, each morse taper is different. They vary from .598"/ft to .625"/ft The #2 and #3 are close but you need a friction fit for the entire length for it to operate properly. JP wrote:

Duane is right I didnt read the post correctly. The tailstock doesnt have the same taper as the h-stock. If a M-3 goes in the head itll take an M-2 for the

Your taper is to big for tailstock go down onesize. If it fit your headstock it is to big for tailstock. My old21" has a bushing that fits in the headstock to take a #4 morice taper. For whatit is

The headstock is a shortened MT3 taper. The tailstock is an MT2 taper. If the taper on the chuck fits the headstock, it shouldn't fit the tailstock. I am assuming we're talking about a 9 inch or

Tom To bad it is not for a 9" or 10K workshop lathe! Clint

Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't

Would removing a fraction of an inch off the small end of the drill chuck arbor morse taper give you enough to bite? It would still fit the headstock, but just be a bit shorter so that it doesn't