Do you tap on the head of the screw to drive out the sleeve? Payson.

Thank you all for the suggestions! The drywall screw with a slide-hammer looks like a great place to start. Knowing how things go over here, I'll be able to try it out in about a week :D.

John  I sure like the way you think. Nelson Collar

Brilliant solution. John

Hi There, The oilers on the top of the Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB) are press fit into the casting. There are 3 types of Gits oilers that could be used. The one of the far left is generally the

I just removed a broken gits oil fitting from a South Bend shaper I just purchased. I used a 1/8” punch on the side of the oiler and angled it up so that it tended to drive the fitting out from the

Screw extractor with grease on it to capture chips? Far as I know, they are push-ins, except for the tumbler gear one. Don

You could try this: Turn a piece of bar to be a snug fit inside the cups, then use a self grip wrench on the outside to really grip them hard without crushing. Eddie

I'm rebuilding a 10k (UMD) and I'm having trouble with the oil cups on the gearbox. I assumed that they either unscrewed or pulled out, like the other cups I've encountered so far, but the covers

Hello Casey, I had to go out of town and wasn't able to look anything up on those numbers. I'll try and do it today or tomorrow sir. Thanks Roger

Super glue works great as a temporary fixture. Just glue the shaft in place, make sure the glue is hard (I have proceeded to machining before the glue was fully cured and regretted it), then drill and

Roger, I sent you an email a week or two ago. Just sent you another one today, if you're still interested.

Thanks for the help. It's a 10-1/2" flat belt pulley and the extender with a second chuck will work I think. Work holding is always a challenge - I'll have to clamp the shaft in the hub somehow

Just a note on buying tapered reamers. The Imperial standard for taper pins etc. is a nice round 1/4" on diameter per foot, 1 in 48. The metric standard is a nice round 1 in 50. If the application

I have done it like Allan, but I also bought the proper tapered drill bit and ream. Came out really nice. I found the drill and ream on eBay for cheap.

In the past, I have clamped the pulley in vise, with the reamer resting in the hole. Get the reamer vertical by eye and centered under the drill chuck by moving the milling machine table. Then, remove

I have never fit a taper pin to a new shaft and a wheel hub. I'm thinking that I should drill an under-size pilot hole in the shaft and next ream the hole with the taper bit in the shaft, close to

I've emailed you both with your email addresses off-list.

Roger, it looks like my email address was cut off automatically. The domain name is the one that starts with a "Y". Or if you have some other way to get in touch with me, i'm not overly familiar with

Hey Jim, I can't remember from when I saw it, but did you get that taper attachment going on it? Irby