Date   

Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

sblatheman
 

LOL   I wish I had one.

Ted

On Oct 30, 2017, at 1:07 PM, EarthLink IMAP wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Ted, 
It's getting close to Christmas time, I have a suggestion for my present this year. Can you pull that 1969 CL1307RS out of the trailer and bring it to me....lol...that was a good year!!
Steve


On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:21 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

FYI: the FOURTEEN came with a D1-3 spindle up until about 1973

Ted

On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:13 PM, glenn brooks animalbrakeman@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

FYI, the SB Fourteen (14VS) is a D1-4 spindle




Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 10:25 PM, EarthLink IMAP wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Ted, 
I don't remember seeing a serial number from the late 1940's for a D1-3., but it was an option. The later 14VS and the 1307 had them, I believe.
Steve


On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

Steve Wells
 

Ted, 
It's getting close to Christmas time, I have a suggestion for my present this year. Can you pull that 1969 CL1307RS out of the trailer and bring it to me....lol...that was a good year!!
Steve


On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:21 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

FYI: the FOURTEEN came with a D1-3 spindle up until about 1973

Ted

On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:13 PM, glenn brooks animalbrakeman@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

FYI, the SB Fourteen (14VS) is a D1-4 spindle




Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 10:25 PM, EarthLink IMAP wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Ted, 
I don't remember seeing a serial number from the late 1940's for a D1-3., but it was an option. The later 14VS and the 1307 had them, I believe.
Steve


On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

sblatheman
 

FYI: the FOURTEEN came with a D1-3 spindle up until about 1973

Ted

On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:13 PM, glenn brooks animalbrakeman@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

FYI, the SB Fourteen (14VS) is a D1-4 spindle




Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 10:25 PM, EarthLink IMAP wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Ted, 
I don't remember seeing a serial number from the late 1940's for a D1-3., but it was an option. The later 14VS and the 1307 had them, I believe.
Steve


On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to  the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

glenn brooks <animalbrakeman@...>
 

FYI, the SB Fourteen (14VS) is a D1-4 spindle

On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 10:25 PM, EarthLink IMAP wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:

 

Ted, 
I don't remember seeing a serial number from the late 1940's for a D1-3., but it was an option. The later 14VS and the 1307 had them, I believe.
Steve


On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to  the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

Steve Wells
 

Ted, 
I don't remember seeing a serial number from the late 1940's for a D1-3., but it was an option. The later 14VS and the 1307 had them, I believe.
Steve


On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to  the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

Steve Wells
 

Ted,
Most all CLC serial numbers I've seen have D1-4's, but I can't say for sure that after stamping that was the spindle shipped or remained in the lathe. CB was also D1-4, CLK was the long taper and I've seen CLO or(0) listed, but I think that might be a mis read CLC. I'm not sure of the later lathes that had the D1-3 option.
I finished your dial this evening, mailing in the AM.
Steve
Ps, I'm kinda liking the chemical process of making the black oxide thumb screws, very interesting to watch them turn black and then seal up with oil.



On Oct 29, 2017, at 8:33 PM, Latheman latheman2@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to  the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Email Moderators: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE-owner@...
* * * * *
Manage your subscription by sending a blank message as follows:
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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

comstock_friend
 

My 13" s_n 6715TKX13, CLC145B, 6-25-1958 has a D1-4 spindle.

John


Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

sblatheman
 

Steve,
 Are you sure about that info ????  
I'm not sure. I have had at least 2 machines (13" and a Heavy 10) with the CLC catalog number and neither one had a D1-4.    Both had 2 speed motors....
????
Ted



Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
-- 
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to  the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Email Moderators: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE-owner@...
* * * * *
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Re: Telescopic follow rest project

carbure2003
 

The issue about tghe positioning is what I try to solve.

This prototype would be good for right hand threading. If I can offset the unit slightly to the right, then by positioning the tool post slightly to the left or right would accomodate both options, without rotating the QCTP.
guy

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "'Jim B. ' Jim@btdtrf.com [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2017 14:36:39 -0400



Very Nice Guy.

I have often thought about where the follower should go.
Several years ago I was making a long Square Cut 4 tpi LH lead screw for a shaper.
The issue was that, in feeding Left to Right, the rest would be best put just in front, to the right of, of the tool. If behind the tool it rides on the swarf thrown up by the tool.

Perhaps there should be a choice of positions. Say the part that bolts to the saddle is staggered and the rest could be attached to a center block from either side.

However if feeding right to left,&#65533; the rest should be to the left of the tool.
I did turn the QCTP to better utilize the “Standard” SP follower rest position.

I have always found Knurling to be sort of an Art.
A year of two ago I wanted to try to duplicate a DUNLOP tire valve remover. The original had a straight fine knurl but at a slight angle.
I made a holder &#65533;for a single knurl, to fit the QCTP, but tilted at the correct angle.
Sometimes I got the correct knurl, sometimes it was &#65533; the desired TPI sometimes it was twice the desired TPI. I just had no consistency.
The picture shows a small ball bearing tailstock live center I made.



Jim B.

From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2017 11:56 AM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project


Here is an update on how it looks like with all components manufactured

I made jaws with ball bearing as contact surface. I might try to build a new version that will offset to the right by 1/2”

Knurling is a bitch to do when you have cheap knurls. I spent one evening trying various setups with my QCTP PHASE II knurl holder. I wanted coarse knurl on the knobs. I finally gave up and installed Armstrong knurling wheels on the holder. It made a difference, knurls being near reading the inside of the jaws was easier than I thought. I oversized the bore to 5/16” and my boring/threading bar could go through it.

One weld left to do.... the spacer that offsets the follow rest from the saddle.

I would not spend a fortune for the original unit on ebay. Nice project for rainy days.

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "'guycad@netzero.com' guycad@netzero.net [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project [1 Attachment]
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2017 00:52:58 GMT

I am in the process of building a new follow rest for one of my SB lathes.
The frame was cut on CNC plasma cutter and then assembled by welding to the jaw cylinders.
The main difference to the original is that it fits on the left side of the saddle, better location when using a QCTP (see attached picture)

I am in the process of manufacturing the remainder of the components. The differential screw uses a very odd thread: 3/8 - 10 LH. I never found a tap for this thread. Did somebody ever find one?
I am about to try to do single point threading for the internal thread on the jaws but it would be easier with a tap. One option I have is to make my own tap for the final passes.
The screw itself was not a big challenge after grinding the tool bit. (Tool bit put upside down on the tool post with the lathe turning reverse, steel rod held in collet)

The easy solution would be to buy new jaws, but it cuts the fun of home shop machining.

So far, it is a nice and fun project. (At this point, I could use my original follow rest jaws). A few years ago I made a 10K folow rest drawing That I posted in the file section of this group. I used the same drawing as baseline. The only difference is that there is no bend in order to offset the jaws in the middle of the cross slide.

Once the design is to my satisfaction, I will manufacture one for my atlas lathe as well.

Guy Cadrin

__________________________________________________________
1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds
Fit Mom Daily
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59ea9a72970f81a722bdest02vuc

------------------------------------

------------------------------------

--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com
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Re: Telescopic follow rest project

eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

Just a thought on whether the travelling steady should roll before or after the cut, consider this:  A roller box on a mass production lathe (e.g. a capstan) has the rollers very close behind the cutting edge. In fact as close as possible.  For those not familiar with production machinery, a roller box is a hollow rigid tool holder, which typically incorporates a "knife" tool incorporating rollers positioned just as they would be on a separate travelling steady.  A typical use for a roller box is cutting hexagon bar at one pass to follow up with a diehead to make a bolt.  They generally operate flooded with coolant, and swarf doesn't seem to be a problem, espcially if it is long.  The roller box contains adequate passages for the escape of swarf (and coolant).  Absolutely monstrous depths of cut & feed rates are feasible when compared with a centre lathe running dry.

Where further cutting is not required, the rollers provide an improved surface finish on many materials.

Eddie


From: "'Jim B. ' Jim@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Sent: Sunday, 29 October 2017, 18:34
Subject: RE: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project

 
Very Nice Guy.
 
I have often thought about where the follower should go.
Several years ago I was making a long Square Cut 4 tpi LH lead screw for a shaper.
The issue was that, in feeding Left to Right, the rest would be best put just in front, to the right of, of the tool. If behind the tool it rides on the swarf thrown up by the tool.
 
Perhaps there should be a choice of positions. Say the part that bolts to the saddle is staggered and the rest could be attached to a center block from either side.
 
However if feeding right to left,  the rest should be to the left of the tool.
I did turn the QCTP to better utilize the “Standard” SP follower rest position.
 
I have always found Knurling to be sort of an Art.
A year of two ago I wanted to try to duplicate a DUNLOP tire valve remover. The original had a straight fine knurl but at a slight angle.
I made a holder  for a single knurl, to fit the QCTP, but tilted at the correct angle.
Sometimes I got the correct knurl, sometimes it was ½ the desired TPI sometimes it was twice the desired TPI. I just had no consistency.
The picture shows a small ball bearing tailstock live center I made.
 
 
 
Jim B.
 
From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2017 11:56 AM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project
 
 
Here is an update on how it looks like with all components manufactured

I made jaws with ball bearing as contact surface. I might try to build a new version that will offset to the right by 1/2”

Knurling is a bitch to do when you have cheap knurls. I spent one evening trying various setups with my QCTP PHASE II knurl holder. I wanted coarse knurl on the knobs. I finally gave up and installed Armstrong knurling wheels on the holder. It made a difference, knurls being near reading the inside of the jaws was easier than I thought. I oversized the bore to 5/16” and my boring/threading bar could go through it.

One weld left to do.... the spacer that offsets the follow rest from the saddle.

I would not spend a fortune for the original unit on ebay. Nice project for rainy days.

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "'guycad@...' guycad@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...>
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project [1 Attachment]
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2017 00:52:58 GMT

I am in the process of building a new follow rest for one of my SB lathes.
The frame was cut on CNC plasma cutter and then assembled by welding to the jaw cylinders.
The main difference to the original is that it fits on the left side of the saddle, better location when using a QCTP (see attached picture)

I am in the process of manufacturing the remainder of the components. The differential screw uses a very odd thread: 3/8 - 10 LH. I never found a tap for this thread. Did somebody ever find one?
I am about to try to do single point threading for the internal thread on the jaws but it would be easier with a tap. One option I have is to make my own tap for the final passes.
The screw itself was not a big challenge after grinding the tool bit. (Tool bit put upside down on the tool post with the lathe turning reverse, steel rod held in collet)

The easy solution would be to buy new jaws, but it cuts the fun of home shop machining.

So far, it is a nice and fun project. (At this point, I could use my original follow rest jaws). A few years ago I made a 10K folow rest drawing That I posted in the file section of this group. I used the same drawing as baseline. The only difference is that there is no bend in order to offset the jaws in the middle of the cross slide.

Once the design is to my satisfaction, I will manufacture one for my atlas lathe as well.

Guy Cadrin

__________________________________________________________
1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds
Fit Mom Daily
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59ea9a72970f81a722bdest02vuc

------------------------------------

------------------------------------

--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/
More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/ Files area
FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/

Then go to the file SouthBendLatheFAQ-4.html
Post: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Email Moderators: mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE-owner@...
* * * * *
Manage your subscription by sending a blank message as follows:
Unsubscribe: SOUTHBENDLATHE-unsubscribe@...
Stop delivery: SOUTHBENDLATHE-nomail@...
Daily digest mode: SOUTHBENDLATHE-digest@...
Individual emails: SOUTHBENDLATHE-normal@...
------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links

__________________________________________________________
The Unusual Link Between Alzheimer's and Coconut Oil (Watch)
Memory Repair Protocol
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59f5fa24b05097a247c02st03vuc

altVirus-free. www.avast.com



Re: Telescopic follow rest project

Jim_B
 

Very Nice Guy.

 

I have often thought about where the follower should go.

Several years ago I was making a long Square Cut 4 tpi LH lead screw for a shaper.

The issue was that, in feeding Left to Right, the rest would be best put just in front, to the right of, of the tool. If behind the tool it rides on the swarf thrown up by the tool.

 

Perhaps there should be a choice of positions. Say the part that bolts to the saddle is staggered and the rest could be attached to a center block from either side.

 

However if feeding right to left,  the rest should be to the left of the tool.

I did turn the QCTP to better utilize the “Standard” SP follower rest position.

 

I have always found Knurling to be sort of an Art.

A year of two ago I wanted to try to duplicate a DUNLOP tire valve remover. The original had a straight fine knurl but at a slight angle.

I made a holder  for a single knurl, to fit the QCTP, but tilted at the correct angle.

Sometimes I got the correct knurl, sometimes it was ½ the desired TPI sometimes it was twice the desired TPI. I just had no consistency.

The picture shows a small ball bearing tailstock live center I made.

 

 

 

Jim B.

 

From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2017 11:56 AM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project

 

 

Here is an update on how it looks like with all components manufactured

I made jaws with ball bearing as contact surface. I might try to build a new version that will offset to the right by 1/2”

Knurling is a bitch to do when you have cheap knurls. I spent one evening trying various setups with my QCTP PHASE II knurl holder. I wanted coarse knurl on the knobs. I finally gave up and installed Armstrong knurling wheels on the holder. It made a difference, knurls being near reading the inside of the jaws was easier than I thought. I oversized the bore to 5/16” and my boring/threading bar could go through it.

One weld left to do.... the spacer that offsets the follow rest from the saddle.

I would not spend a fortune for the original unit on ebay. Nice project for rainy days.

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "'guycad@...' guycad@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...>
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Telescopic follow rest project [1 Attachment]
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2017 00:52:58 GMT

I am in the process of building a new follow rest for one of my SB lathes.
The frame was cut on CNC plasma cutter and then assembled by welding to the jaw cylinders.
The main difference to the original is that it fits on the left side of the saddle, better location when using a QCTP (see attached picture)

I am in the process of manufacturing the remainder of the components. The differential screw uses a very odd thread: 3/8 - 10 LH. I never found a tap for this thread. Did somebody ever find one?
I am about to try to do single point threading for the internal thread on the jaws but it would be easier with a tap. One option I have is to make my own tap for the final passes.
The screw itself was not a big challenge after grinding the tool bit. (Tool bit put upside down on the tool post with the lathe turning reverse, steel rod held in collet)

The easy solution would be to buy new jaws, but it cuts the fun of home shop machining.

So far, it is a nice and fun project. (At this point, I could use my original follow rest jaws). A few years ago I made a 10K folow rest drawing That I posted in the file section of this group. I used the same drawing as baseline. The only difference is that there is no bend in order to offset the jaws in the middle of the cross slide.

Once the design is to my satisfaction, I will manufacture one for my atlas lathe as well.

Guy Cadrin

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Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

David Boyd
 

Thanks Steve!
My serial number is 12929TKX.  It was shipped on March 25, 1969.
Enjoying this machine - big step up from a mini-lathe. 

On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 12:00 PM, 'Steve Wells' wswells@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:

 



David,
Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
 


Re: 13” Southbend Lathe Model No. [1 Attachment]

Steve Wells
 


David,
Very nice looking machine, could you post your serial number please.
The CLC is part of the catalog number, identifying the spindle nose. 
CLC = D1-4 Cam Lock spindle.
 
Steve
 


Re: Telescopic follow rest project [1 Attachment]

carbure2003
 


13” Southbend Lathe Model No.

David Boyd
 


I am a newbie and just finished disassembling and cleaning my 13” lathe.  I was researching info on it and have a question for the experts.  My model no. is CLC145B, what does the second “C” stand for?  l do not see any catalog with that model number.





Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad


Re: Spindle lock

Rangelov
 

Phillip,

I think I can follow the
directions.  I will try this when I am at my lathe (I
have been 2000 miles away from home).  Thanks for the write-up.

Dimitar (14.5 SBL).

________________________________________________
2f. Re: Changing broken back gears on
a
South Bend 9 Lathe
    Posted by: "phillip" pepolk@hotmail.com
pepolk
    Date: Wed Oct 25, 2017
2:07 pm ((PDT))

I took a piece of steel flat stock
approx. 1� X 1/8� and cut a piece
1 �� long and
formed a �V� in one end, and then
welded it on the flat
stock from which it had been cut. This
gave me a bar with a
reversed arrow head welded to it, so
when the strap was
inserted down through the gap between
the release pin on the
headstock bull gear and the gear
cover, it came to rest on
the headstock casting with the arrow
head shaped piece of
steel acting like a �Shuffleboard
stick� surrounding the
release pin. The whole thing has to be
thin enough to be
installable and removable with no
effort. When the cuck,
faceplate or whatever is rotated
counterclockwise the lock
pin body will center into this �V�
and with its base
against the headstock casting almost
at the top, rotation is
stopped and then can be unscrewed and
the tool removed and
hung back on the wall till it is
needed again. The �V�
is parallel to the strap facing back
up the handle, like a
big barb on a frog gig or a pike or
spear.  If
thickness were not such an issue , I
would have cut the
notch  and just using heat folded
itself back over
itself, but that was more
blacksmithing than I wanted to do
as the fold would have had to have
been no thicker than
��l

-------------------------------
From: Rangelov rangelov@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017
10:11
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Re:
Changing
broken back gears on a South Bend 9
Lathe

Phillip,
Sounds like a great idea. I don't
recall that it was discussed
previously.

Would you explain how you made a
release pin lock? And how it is used.
Which would eliminate
the backgear stress and subsequent
breakage?

I don't recall this being discussed
on
the list.

Thanks, Dimitar

-------------------------------------------
__________________________
1h. Re: Changing broken back gears on
a
South Bend 9 Lathe
Posted by: "phillip" pepolk@hotmail.com
pepolk
Date: Tue Oct 24, 2017 2:02 pm
((PDT))

<snip>.... I made a tool to
lock
the release pin on my headstock to the
headstock casting and
not risk damaging my back gears ever
again.


Re: back gear

don <donmc@...>
 

Hi,
Yes most MMAW (stick) rods for use with "cast iron" welding are predominately nickel. That's why they are so expensive.

As for brazing cast iron almost all the major welding consumable suppliers have a suitable bronze or nickel bronze rod available together with the required flux. Nickel bronze rod is harder and wears a lot better under arduous conditions.... years ago I used to rebuild race car gears with nickel bronze and they lasted about the same time as the originals, which was a real bonus considering the cost of replacements.
I think you will find that a lot of vintage car etc enthusiasts also rebuild all sorts of gears using oxy acetylene torches and nickel bronze rods.
But: if you are going to weld or braze cast iron it must be clean, really clean!
In my experience as passed on to me by expert welders the best way is to boil the part in a caustic soda solution to remove all traces of oil and other rubbish, dry off and start welding.
Grease, oil etc is your enemy when welding or brazing any thing.

Cheers,
Don.


Re: Changing broken back gears on a South Bend 9 Lathe

Boris Gaspar
 

That looks like a successful result Mario.

Thanks for showing the photos.


Re: Changing broken back gears on a South Bend 9 Lathe

phillip <pepolk@...>
 

I took a piece of steel flat stock approx. 1” X 1/8” and cut a piece 1 ½” long and formed a “V” in one end, and then welded it on the flat stock from which it had been cut. This gave me a bar with a reversed arrow head welded to it, so when the strap was inserted down through the gap between the release pin on the headstock bull gear and the gear cover, it came to rest on the headstock casting with the arrow head shaped piece of steel acting like a “Shuffleboard stick” surrounding the release pin. The whole thing has to be thin enough to be installable and removable with no effort. When the cuck, faceplate or whatever is rotated counterclockwise the lock pin body will center into this “V” and with its base against the headstock casting almost at the top, rotation is stopped and then can be unscrewed and the tool removed and hung back on the wall till it is needed again. The “V” is parallel to the strap facing back up the handle, like a big barb on a frog gig or a pike or spear.  If thickness were not such an issue , I would have cut the notch  and just using heat folded itself back over itself, but that was more blacksmithing than I wanted to do as the fold would have had to have been no thicker than ¼”

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Rangelov rangelov@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 10:11 AM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Re: Changing broken back gears on a South Bend 9 Lathe

 

 

Phillip,
Sounds like a great idea. I don't recall that it was discussed previously.

Would you explain how you made a release pin lock? And how it is used. Which would eliminate the backgear stress and subsequent breakage?

I don't recall this being discussed on the list.

Thanks, Dimitar
-------------------------------------------
__________________________
1h. Re: Changing broken back gears on a South Bend 9 Lathe
Posted by: "phillip" pepolk@... pepolk
Date: Tue Oct 24, 2017 2:02 pm ((PDT))

.... I made a tool to lock the release pin on my headstock to the headstock casting and not risk damaging my back gears ever again.

 


Re: Changing broken back gears on a South Bend 9 Lathe

Mario Firmino
 

Hi Steven,

During my heavy ten restoration I've got two broken theet back gear.
I did tig weld with nickel and milled the excess material.
During the assembly I did the fine adjustment filing the theet.
See the photos...
Good luck!!
Mario

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