Date   

Re: ID steady rest [2 Attachments]

john kling
 

There is less than a 1" difference in swing between the 9" and 10" narrow bed lathes. Most of the time will not steady and follower rests be reasonably interchanged between the two?


On Friday, July 7, 2017 6:32 PM, "rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" wrote:


 
[Attachment(s) from rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] included below]
Hello All;
Somebody gave this to me, doesn't fit on my SB9, any idea what it might fit?
Thanks, Ron



Re: ID steady rest

Bob Kellermann
 

Does it have stamp numbers in bottom 

On Jul 7, 2017, at 7:36 PM, btdtrf@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

 

SB9 tells up very little.

 

There ARE AT LEAST 3 PERHAPS 4 DIFFERENT 9” South Bend lathes,

 

Which one do you have?

Also the fingers are in backwards, that has nothing to do with fir but it looks funny .

 

 

Jim B.

 

From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2017 5:23 PM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] ID steady rest [2 Attachments]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] included below]

Hello All;

Somebody gave this to me, doesn't fit on my SB9, any idea what it might fit?

Thanks, Ron


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: ID steady rest [2 Attachments]

btdtrf@...
 

SB9 tells up very little.

 

There ARE AT LEAST 3 PERHAPS 4 DIFFERENT 9” South Bend lathes,

 

Which one do you have?

Also the fingers are in backwards, that has nothing to do with fir but it looks funny .

 

 

Jim B.

 

From: SOUTHBENDLATHE@... [mailto:SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2017 5:23 PM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] ID steady rest [2 Attachments]

 

 

[Attachment(s) from rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] included below]

Hello All;

Somebody gave this to me, doesn't fit on my SB9, any idea what it might fit?

Thanks, Ron


Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: ID steady rest [2 Attachments]

Nelson Collar
 

Ron
It look to be a 10K steady. The swing over bed is half of the diameter of what it can handle.
Nelson



On Friday, July 7, 2017, 6:32:58 PM EDT, rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:


 
[Attachment(s) from rppare@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] included below]

Hello All;

Somebody gave this to me, doesn't fit on my SB9, any idea what it might fit?

Thanks, Ron


ID steady rest

Ron Pare
 

Hello All;

Somebody gave this to me, doesn't fit on my SB9, any idea what it might fit?

Thanks, Ron


Lever Operated Tail Stock Attachment for 9" SB

Lou Skydell
 

I have a lever operated tail stock attachment for a 9" SB that I bought many years ago from a local machine shop that was closing down.  It worked very well for the jobs I was doing at the time, but I haven't used it for awhile.  To use, the regular hand wheel and acme screw are removed and replaced with the lever attachment which then screws into the back of the tail stock and the ram.  I would like to sell it but don't have any idea what it's worth.  If anyone is interested, please let me know.  


Thanks


Extra spacers

Steve Epstein
 

Tearing down a late 40s/early 50s SB 13" toolroom. Discovered some spacers between the legs and the chip pan. Somehow they do not look original. Upon reassembly I will verify level and proper spacing but wondering if anyone has seen this before. Everything but the spacers looks original and they are about 3/8" thick.

Thanks.



File - Reminder.txt

SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
 

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Re: Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways

carbure2003
 

The four machines I rebuilt are model A.

I used epoxy JB Weld, not a specialised epoxy. Around Ottawa, it is difficult to find specialised adhesives. Imoprting from the states become prohibitive because of shipping costs.

The quote you got sounds reasonable. They usually charge by linear foot and number of surfaces to grind.

For a 48" the guy was asking $650.

Bring in your saddle, they will need it in order to keep the shape of the bed profile.

Before I re machined the saddle, I scraped the taper attachment mount at the rear of the saddle in order to ensure I had a reference point in order to align the saddle on the milling machine. Perpendicularity of the cross slide to spindle was checked as per machine tool reconditionning.

Glueing was done in two shots: front ways and then rear ways. Bed was perfectly leveled. I used the master precision level to level the saddle in the glueing process in both directions. Plan 0.005" for glue thickness.

Sand blast the milled V ways on the saddle before you glue. Use brake cleaner to ensure there is no more grease on the surfaceTake before applying glue. Take your time.....

The worst machine I rebuilt was a 9A 48" bed. It was so worn near the headstock that over 20" long, I was measuring that the machine would turn +- 18 thou diameter. ( I have a scrap hydraulic ram 1 3/4" dia , 20" long piece of steel that I modified in order to make a test bar) . When I finished, I read variations of 0.0002" on the dial over the full length of the test bar.

I also have a MT 3 alignment bar bought on ebay.

Guy

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "dsymes@yahoo.com [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways
Date: 28 Jun 2017 21:40:47 +0000



The bed on my 10K is 54", and I got a rough quote of $550 to $600US.

Of course you are exactly right - what I am aiming at is the height of the saddle over the lead screw. On the other hand, I don't want the shop to remove more metal than necessary. Your measurements on the 1966 SB as well as your experience that these measurements work in practice is just the info I needed. It will be interesting to see if I back into that number by estimating the bed wear and then using Dennis Turk's rule of thumb that saddle wear is usually 3x to 4x the amount of bed wear.

I am planning on using Rulon which I understand is very similar to Trucite. Did you glue you Trucite down with the epoxy that has the little .003 glass beads in it?

You probably mentioned this in your previous posts, but were the lathes you rebuilt "A" lathes with cross slide drive?

Douglas

____________________________________________________________
(13) Signs That Your Body Is Fighting Cancer (Photos)
obviouslybored.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59542f6e380c02f6e5cedst04vuc


Re: Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways

ds-in-wa
 

The bed on my 10K is 54", and I got a rough quote of $550 to $600US.


Of course you are exactly right - what I am aiming at is the height of the saddle over the lead screw.  On the other hand, I don't want the shop to remove more metal than necessary.  Your measurements on the 1966 SB as well as your experience that these measurements work in practice is just the info I needed.  It will be interesting to see if I back into that number by estimating the bed wear and then using Dennis Turk's rule of thumb that saddle wear is usually 3x to 4x the amount of bed wear.


I am planning on using Rulon which I understand is very similar to Trucite.  Did you glue you Trucite down with the epoxy that has the little .003 glass beads in it? 


You probably mentioned this in your previous posts, but were the lathes you rebuilt "A" lathes with cross slide drive?


Douglas


Re: New To Group C9-10JR 415-YC

roefa.excite
 

Welcome to the Group, John.
Check out the member location map when you can.
Roger Memphis.
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Kochcal@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" [SOUTHBENDLATHE@...]
Date: 06/28/2017 08:52 AM
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] New To Group C9-10JR 415-YC

 

 

Hi 

 

Been thinking about Turning for a while. 

Impulse acquired what looks like a South Bend 

Model C9-10JR, Catalog number 415-YC, Serial number 6585NCR8.  

 

If the Serial number is on top of the the ways on the far right under where the tail stock sits when not used. 

 

Nice coat of dust caked oil on most surfaces with just a little light rust in what looks like mostly cosmetic locations. 

 

Trying to find a set of specs on all the sizes for tooling so I can keep my eye out, done some searching but there is a lot of stuff and it's not clear what applies to this lathe. Looks like this is a JR and not like many other 9" South Bend lathes. 

 

The chuck is three jaw  looked like it said "Pogan 431" to me but that most likely must be Logan. 

 

any way there is a South Bend 1-1/2" UNC thread  face plates that I could acquire and I would like to verify that this lathe has a   1-1/2" UNC thread on the spendal.

 

I also would like to know what a full gear complement is, if I have 13 gears in a box and a lathe full is that a complete set?

 

It will take a while to make progress, just oiled surfaces down a bit and starting to get information. 

 

I have no real turning history other then shorting some standoffs as a kid. 

 

Done a bit of searching so far mostly under 415-YC, Looks like a Nice group. 

 

Any helpful pointers gladly accepted.

 

Thanks

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways

carbure2003
 

I am back home on monday night.

How much are they charging you for re grinding the bed?

I got one done in Montreal for $500 Can. The bed was 42" long.

The thickness they remove is not that important. The important is to maintain the relative vertical distance between the saddle and lead screw. I visited a friend that bought a 1966 SB that was in mint condition. With a depth micrometer I measured 0.510" between the flat surface in front of the rack and the machined surface where the apron sits when bolted to the saddle. Various measurements told me that it has to be between 0.500 and 0.510". I rebuilt my saddle withhin this tolerance on the last 2 machines I rebuilt. I rebuilt with Turcite. It is amasingly smooth.

Guy

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "dsymes@yahoo.com [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways
Date: 28 Jun 2017 17:20:02 +0000



Thank you Guy. I have followed your posts detailing your planing jig with interest, but have decided to have the bed work done at a shop in Seattle and then to do the scraping and saddle work myself. However, before I send the bed out, I want to map the wear so I can specify how much should be planed, and also determine how much wear is on the bottom of the saddle. Also, it will allow me to determine after the fact just how much material has been removed.

I have already done some work on the tailstock base, and will use the tailstock ways as you suggest since they tend to have much less wear than the outer ways. However, I suspect that I can also get a fairly good measure of the wear on the tailstock ways by measuring from a precision flat bar across the top of the outer ways.

Yes, I have a level, indicators, straight edges, and Connelly's book for reference.

If you can share your drawing with me I would be most appreciative.

Douglas

---In SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com, <guycad@...> wrote :

I have a drawing at home of the bed way profile. From what I recall, distance between bed ways is 5 1/8".

If your lathe is in similar condition as mine was, use the tailstock ways in order to measure the wear on the saddle ways with a dial indicator reading to 0.0001"

Use the tailstock base as your reference. I have rebuilt completely 3 SB 9 or 10K re scraping bed ways and brought back the machines to original spec.

I manufactured a planing jig in order to remove most of the wear.

Unlike in the Book Machine Tool Reconditionning, I reconditioned the tailstock ways first because they were the ones wi the least wear.

You will need a master precision level as well

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "dsymes@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways
Date: 28 Jun 2017 00:13:25 +0000



I am getting ready to map the wear on the bed and the saddle of my 1964 South Bend 10K in preparation for grinding/scraping/rulon/etc. I am going to take measurements and do some drawings of the ways under the headstock, but it occurred to me that someone might already have posted a dimensioned cross section drawing of the bed ways that I could use as a starting point.

Does such a drawing exist here, and if so, could someone point me to it? I understand that the bed for the 10K is the same as for 9" beds, at least later ones.


Thank you,
Douglas

____________________________________________________________
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FitMomDaily
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59539f6bcd0911f6b1823st04vuc
____________________________________________________________
1 Cup of This (Before Bed) Will "Destroy" Your Nail Fungus
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http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/5954106e83f5b106e3f83st04vuc


Re: Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways

ds-in-wa
 

Thank you Guy.  I have followed your posts detailing your planing jig with interest, but have decided to have the bed work done at a shop in Seattle and then to do the scraping and saddle work myself.  However, before I send the bed out, I want to map the wear so I can specify how much should be planed, and also determine how much wear is on the bottom of the saddle.  Also, it will allow me to determine after the fact just how much material has been removed.


I have already done some work on the tailstock base, and will use the tailstock ways as you suggest since they tend to have much less wear than the outer ways.  However, I suspect that I can also get a fairly good measure of the wear on the tailstock ways by measuring from a precision flat bar across the top of the outer ways.


Yes, I have a level, indicators, straight edges, and Connelly's book for reference.   


If you can share your drawing with me I would be most appreciative. 


Douglas

---In SOUTHBENDLATHE@..., <guycad@...> wrote :

I have a drawing at home of the bed way profile. From what I recall, distance between bed ways is 5 1/8".

If your lathe is in similar condition as mine was, use the tailstock ways in order to measure the wear on the saddle ways with a dial indicator reading to 0.0001"

Use the tailstock base as your reference. I have rebuilt completely 3 SB 9 or 10K re scraping bed ways and brought back the machines to original spec.

I manufactured a planing jig in order to remove most of the wear.

Unlike in the Book Machine Tool Reconditionning, I reconditioned the tailstock ways first because they were the ones wi the least wear.

You will need a master precision level as well

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "dsymes@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@...>
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways
Date: 28 Jun 2017 00:13:25 +0000



I am getting ready to map the wear on the bed and the saddle of my 1964 South Bend 10K in preparation for grinding/scraping/rulon/etc. I am going to take measurements and do some drawings of the ways under the headstock, but it occurred to me that someone might already have posted a dimensioned cross section drawing of the bed ways that I could use as a starting point.

Does such a drawing exist here, and if so, could someone point me to it? I understand that the bed for the 10K is the same as for 9" beds, at least later ones.


Thank you,
Douglas

____________________________________________________________
1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines In Seconds
FitMomDaily
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59539f6bcd0911f6b1823st04vuc


Re: Lifting 10K onto cabinet?

vtsblogan@...
 

There is no way that 4 guys can't lift a 10k (Grizzly or otherwise0 onto a cabinet. 4 guys could lift a heavy 10 no problem. You can mount some 2x material to the headstock crosswise to the lathe which gives a nice handle on either side. 1 man on each side of the headstock is all you need to lift, and another guy on the tailstock end (which is more about balance than any lifting) could easily do this. To be safe do it incrementally- set it on cinder blocks, then cinderblock stacked 2 high (or sawhorses, or another table) etc. if needed. I have moved both my heavy 10 and my Logan (twice) with just two people without danger or strain to either of us.

On 27 Jun 2017 19:02:26 +0000, "borpe2008@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" wrote:

 

 

I haveGrizzly's SB1002 10K lathe and the SB1035 cabinet.

 

A local professional rigger want $498 to lift the lathe from the floor to the cabinet.

There's got to be a better/cheaper way. I'm looking for suggestions.

Rent a lift of some kind?

 

Four men together have tried to lift and place the lathe, but it can't be done safely.

 

 

 

 

 


Re: 1940 911-S

 

Jim and Turk: Thanks for the replies!!!! Lemme see. it is indeed 8 tpi and it is not a standard 1 1/2 inch, but indeed 1 5/8 (it was about 30 years ago that I had to make the plates). Boy, the new ones on MSC (GOODBYE, ENCO!) seem to be a lot more expensive. So it was the thread diameter rather than the pitch that is non-standard. The adapter from special near-Jarno taper to B&S 2 did come with the lathe. Please forgive .004" error as the adapter is only a little over 2" long :-). I thought I was being clever to get the Jarno LOL.
Only reason I even thought about possible collets etc. is due to cleaning up in depth and checking runout and spindle condition (it's fine). Since I got a little 7x10 HF with threading capability for the small stuff (and had to tear that down and clean up, it's a kit, folks), I don't really need to mess with the South Bend. It's really great because I can get a long rifle barrel in with a 4-jaw and steady rest, or taper the whole barrel in one setup.
Thanks again for your interest. I can send some bad pix if you'd like. I may have to seek some more advice as I have yet to test the cleaned-up crossfeed. It may need a new leadscrew, probably again non-standard, it's 1/2-10 LH and the crossfeed gear is made right on the shaft.
Don


--
Dr. Don Latham
PO Box 404, Frenchtown, MT, 59834
VOX: 406-626-4304


Re: New To Group C9-10JR 415-YC

john kling
 

Does the 415 indicate that the lathe is a model 415. The 415 is the second model (after the 405) in the narrow bed lathes. Later they were called workshop lathes and the larger swing lathe the 10k. I have a 415 which  I have added a quick change gear box and a model A/B apron to. Most parts for the 416 are also fit the 10k and the work shop lathes.


On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 9:52 AM, "Kochcal@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" wrote:


 
Hi 

Been thinking about Turning for a while. 
Impulse acquired what looks like a South Bend 
Model C9-10JR, Catalog number 415-YC, Serial number 6585NCR8.  

If the Serial number is on top of the the ways on the far right under where the tail stock sits when not used. 

Nice coat of dust caked oil on most surfaces with just a little light rust in what looks like mostly cosmetic locations. 

Trying to find a set of specs on all the sizes for tooling so I can keep my eye out, done some searching but there is a lot of stuff and it's not clear what applies to this lathe. Looks like this is a JR and not like many other 9" South Bend lathes. 

The chuck is three jaw  looked like it said "Pogan 431" to me but that most likely must be Logan. 

any way there is a South Bend 1-1/2" UNC thread  face plates that I could acquire and I would like to verify that this lathe has a   1-1/2" UNC thread on the spendal.

I also would like to know what a full gear complement is, if I have 13 gears in a box and a lathe full is that a complete set?

It will take a while to make progress, just oiled surfaces down a bit and starting to get information. 

I have no real turning history other then shorting some standoffs as a kid. 

Done a bit of searching so far mostly under 415-YC, Looks like a Nice group. 

Any helpful pointers gladly accepted.

Thanks

John









Re: Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways

carbure2003
 

I have a drawing at home of the bed way profile. From what I recall, distance between bed ways is 5 1/8".

If your lathe is in similar condition as mine was, use the tailstock ways in order to measure the wear on the saddle ways with a dial indicator reading to 0.0001"

Use the tailstock base as your reference. I have rebuilt completely 3 SB 9 or 10K re scraping bed ways and brought back the machines to original spec.

I manufactured a planing jig in order to remove most of the wear.

Unlike in the Book Machine Tool Reconditionning, I reconditioned the tailstock ways first because they were the ones wi the least wear.

You will need a master precision level as well

Guy Cadrin

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "dsymes@yahoo.com [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
To: <SOUTHBENDLATHE@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Drawing of 10K/9" bed ways
Date: 28 Jun 2017 00:13:25 +0000



I am getting ready to map the wear on the bed and the saddle of my 1964 South Bend 10K in preparation for grinding/scraping/rulon/etc. I am going to take measurements and do some drawings of the ways under the headstock, but it occurred to me that someone might already have posted a dimensioned cross section drawing of the bed ways that I could use as a starting point.

Does such a drawing exist here, and if so, could someone point me to it? I understand that the bed for the 10K is the same as for 9" beds, at least later ones.


Thank you,
Douglas

____________________________________________________________
1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines In Seconds
FitMomDaily
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/59539f6bcd0911f6b1823st04vuc


New To Group C9-10JR 415-YC

ykochcal
 

Hi 


Been thinking about Turning for a while. 

Impulse acquired what looks like a South Bend 

Model C9-10JR, Catalog number 415-YC, Serial number 6585NCR8.  


If the Serial number is on top of the the ways on the far right under where the tail stock sits when not used. 


Nice coat of dust caked oil on most surfaces with just a little light rust in what looks like mostly cosmetic locations. 


Trying to find a set of specs on all the sizes for tooling so I can keep my eye out, done some searching but there is a lot of stuff and it's not clear what applies to this lathe. Looks like this is a JR and not like many other 9" South Bend lathes. 


The chuck is three jaw  looked like it said "Pogan 431" to me but that most likely must be Logan. 


any way there is a South Bend 1-1/2" UNC thread  face plates that I could acquire and I would like to verify that this lathe has a   1-1/2" UNC thread on the spendal.


I also would like to know what a full gear complement is, if I have 13 gears in a box and a lathe full is that a complete set?


It will take a while to make progress, just oiled surfaces down a bit and starting to get information. 


I have no real turning history other then shorting some standoffs as a kid. 


Done a bit of searching so far mostly under 415-YC, Looks like a Nice group. 


Any helpful pointers gladly accepted.


Thanks


John








Re: Lifting 10K onto cabinet?

comstock_friend
 

Two years ago I had professional movers fetch a Bridgeport J step pulley mill, a 13" South Bend plus about 1,000 pounds of tooling from Murietta, California to Sun Valley, California (93 miles) and place them in my garage. $ 650. Your guy is too expensive!

John 

PS: The lift straps go UNDER the lead and feed screws between bed. I've had three lathes moved and all the riggers (pros) do that.


Re: Lifting 10K onto cabinet?

john kling
 

One can lighten the load removing tail stock, carriage, quick change gear box and counter shaft - the weight really adds up.


On Tuesday, June 27, 2017 3:42 PM, "Ray De Jong dejongray@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]" wrote:


 
Rent a cherrie picker or aka engine lift- the type that folds out to meet the requirement, and they a compact so will go through even narrow doors.
Place a bar of steel diameter of which will be the largest that will easily fit through the spindle, long enough to protrude a good distance through both ends of the the spindle and tighten the chuck jaws, not too tightly on it.
Lathes are VERY top heavy but the major weight is all below spindle level. It of course is all at the headstock end as well.
Lifting with engine lift is quite straight forward but it is important to use, and this is optional, some1/2" rope or better yet a webbed towing strap that is commonly used to tow vehicles out of the ditch. The rental company may even have a proper sling to rent.
Then lift points are next in importance - the sling or rope should loop over each protruding end of bar through the spindle
Do an easy test lift to determine balance and check that nothing slips. using a sling is the best as they have loops at each end and generally have a entered lift point - you don't want the sling or rope to slip when balance is interrupted. It rope is being used proper knots must be used and use a half hitch on the hook.

There are other safety considerations called common sense and I can't elaborate on this but experience is a good teacher as I have had near misses, so to speak, but I have slung machines  - lathes, mills, radial drill presses et. weighing Tons and have fortunately escaped injury.
Hope this helps and someone may chime in on the South Bend instructions of years ago, I don't have a copy though, Sorry
ray



From: "borpe2008@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]"
To: SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 12:02 PM
Subject: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Lifting 10K onto cabinet?

 
I have Grizzly's SB1002 10K lathe and the SB1035 cabinet.

A local professional rigger want $498 to lift the lathe from the floor to the cabinet.
There's got to be a better/cheaper way. I'm looking for suggestions.
Rent a lift of some kind?

Four men together have tried to lift and place the lathe, but it can't be done safely.



 




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