Put something under it to protect the bed and it and put a rod or
dowel in it to hang on to.




On 3/20/17, 913fred@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE]
<SOUTHBENDLATHE@...> wrote:

Lock the spindle by putting in back gear but NOT removing the locking
pin on the gear.

This is intended for normal removal only...not removing a chuck that has
frozen to the spindle.

On 03/20/2017 11:17 AM, iptvengineer@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:

Got it home, had a little rain along the way and minor issues on the load.
Got it in the basement, but tore up the yard. Going through it now. Seems
to be in good shape. Need to find the details on lube points and the
collet system, as all the parts don't seem to be there or match. My atlas
has a pin to hold the spindle when removing the chuck. How do you get the
chucks off these?

Links:
------
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[3] http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SOUTHBENDLATHE/files/
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Lock the spindle by putting in back gear but NOT removing the locking pin on the gear. 

This is intended for normal removal only...not removing a chuck that has frozen to the spindle.

 

That pin on the Atlas is an indexing pin, NOT a pin for chuck removal.

Got it home, had a little rain along the way and minor issues on the load. Got it in the basement, but tore up the yard. Going through it now. Seems to be in good shape. Need to find the details on lube points and the collet system, as all the parts don't seem to be there or match. My atlas has a pin to hold the spindle when removing the chuck. How do you get the chucks off these?

I sent the wrong links:

Bridgeport 2HP with no load https://youtu.be/beqSaEJ7Xjk

Our railway's 1943 14.5" has exactly this arrangement, and I agree that it is VITAL that it be kept supplied with clean oil.  To this end, upon first taking over a lathe, before running it for the first time, and at the recommended intervals thereafter, strip the mandrel out of the headstock and muck out the oil sumps, wash or renew the felts and set it all up again according to the instructions.  Not difficult and doesn't take long.  It incidentally at least partially affords an opportunity to fit a modern endless belt if you are so minded on a rear drive machine, but I think this is impossible on an underdrive due to the headstock casting not allowing it.

The purpose of the oil grooves is not to store oil, but to circulate it.  Oil is led to the centre of the journal by the wick felt, and in the absence of the grooves would form a thick film lubrication regime, developing significant pressure on the loaded side.  The grooves interrupt that process and the oil therefore flows from the high pressure area and out the ends of the bearing where it is caught and returned to the sump.  Why do this, when thick film lubrication is infinitely to be desired?  It is all about temperature distribution.  Bearings that have low clearances and high speeds need something to prevent the work done in shearing the oil from raising local temperatures.  Naturally, the shaft would run at a higher temperature than the housing, which has a greater ability to get rid of heat by convection, conduction & radiation.  The shaft running at a higher temperature means it would expand more than the housing in the running condition, which means you would need a larger clearance in the stationary or slow speed condition, something which is not desirable in a precision machine tool.  The combination of the felt's wicking ability (to establish oil flow) the bearing clearance, the oil viscosity (ISO 22) and the bearing speed are all interdependent in order to prevent thermal runaway and seizure.

Personally, I feel that SB have rather overdone the circulation grooves, as the lands between them occupy only small angles and this would result in very poor hydrodynamic (i.e. non contact) lubrication, especially at slow speeds and the associated high loads.  However, it seems to work.

If faced with a lathe with this arrangement that had had the headstock bearings wrecked by negligence, I would either whitemetal in situ, bore & scrape, or bore out for bronze shells and whitemetal those.  The shaft would probably have to be ground, but I suspect it is case hardened in some way, so that would need to be checked first.

Eddie

How much for the gear box and banjo. Do you have any pictures of it gary roberts

Might be sacreligious to mention here but I found Gits oilers onAmazon.com for my Atlas MF milling machine. McMaster-Carr does have an advantage IIRC, in that their on-line catalog has the things arranged by type and dimensions. Seems to me some are threaded, some push in, and come in various sizes.

I couldn't order from them for some forgotten reason, so went with Amazon.

HTH!

Bill in OKC

Jim has a good idea.  Also search eBay for a similar one.  If you look them up on the internet, they come in various styles and sizes,  Probably SB used an "off the shelf" design for the one on your lathe.  That has been my experience with the oilers on other restoration projects.

Fred

 

Johnnyblock1
You can find all those Gits oilers on McMaster-Carr website.  They are easy to match up - if you pulled the old one and know the hole size.  Some are threaded and some are press fit.
Some of the elbow style ones look different than the old ones -now appear to be cast -not formed.
Jim

No connection

Eddie

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Southbend-Metalworking-Lathe-/142312298588?hash=item212279585c:g:Q3EAAOSwol5YveyP