Date   

what year?

Mark and Beckey <bpritchett1@...>
 

Maybe somebody can help me out. I'm thinking about buying this machine for $1000 and don't know much about it. I do know that it's a SB 9" with a 42" bed. Looks to be in good original condition. The number at the far end of the bed is 145412 and its a model "A".  Also says catalog #6447.  Any information you guys can give me would sure help me out. Seller is also throwing in a quick change tool post.  


Re: Crossfeed nut question

shapeaholic <shapeaholic@yahoo.ca> <shapeaholic@...>
 

I have both types of nuts for my SB9a.
I converted my machine to taper attachment last summer.
The standard nut and the taper nut are essentially the same except
that the standard nut has a round stub that fits into the cross
slide casting.
The taper nut has basically the same dimensions for the cross slide
screw, but is flat on the top with a 5/16x24 thread to secure it to
the cross slide.
I actually modified a standard nut to use on my taper attachment.
I will post a couple of pictures tomorrow.

Regards
Pete

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Sherwood <lurch@t...>"
<lurch@t...> wrote:
Yep...this aftermarket taper attachment comes with an extension
that
bolts to the stock cross-slide...but if I have to remove the
leadscrew
aseembly to cut tapers, how then could that affect the nut?

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
The Taper type nut is a solid piece. It is not a disconect
type. I
haven't looked at the design intent as to why there are two
different types
of nuts. I would think the taper nut is such so it won't twist
with any
side forces from the taper attachment. SB taper attachments use a
different
cross slide. It has the long slot that the taper attachment
connect
to cast
into it in one piece. This is for the 9/10K only. The heavier
lathes
have
it bolted on. If I was to use the non taper type nut and cross
slide and
its nut does twist in operation with the taper attachment, I
would
think of
putting in a keyway to keep it aligned. Still, I would check
into this a
bit more, If I were you. Maybe some of the other board members
have
a bit
more knowlelge on this.
Tom




"Brian Sherwood <lurch@t...>" <lurch on 01/31/2003 09:12:08 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question


Tom, can you be a bit more specific? I bought an aftermarket
taper
attachment for mine, and although mine has the non-taper
crossfeed
setup, all I do is unwind the feedscrew until the nut
disengages, then
unscrew the bushing from the carriage and remove the entire
feedscrew
assembly...is the 'triangle-with-rounded-top' design supposed to
allow
disconnection without physical removal?

Thanks.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c...
wrote:

THe Non-taper is a cyclinder with the thread perpendicular to
the
cylinder. It fits into a round hole. The taper attachment one
is
sort of
an extruded triangle lentgh wise, with a rounded top. The flat
base fits
into a shallow recess. Really very different and would be best
to
just make
or buy one. I do notice that you are refering to "C's" as
non-taper and
A&B's as taper. This makes me wonder if you are wanting power
cross
feed.
Many A's and B's don't have taper attachments. Maybe some C's
had
it. Now
if your thinking about power cross feed, that has nothing to do
with the
nut itself. That has to do with the cross slide leads screw.
These are
different and again might be a bit of work along with work to
the lead
screw and an A/B apron. Hope this helps.
Tom




"twojays44 <two-jays@j...>" <two-jays on 01/30/2003 03:24:20 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Crossfeed nut question


Could someone please explain the actual physical difference
between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut
for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least
suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF
or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


--
.


Re: Heavy Ten bed regrind

kentfreeman
 

If it is not to tacking to ask about how much does it cost to get a
bed reground and scraped?


Followup on Replacement crossfeed nut

dcrow6969 <dcrow1@attbi.com> <dcrow1@...>
 

I ordered a replacement crossfeed nut for my 10" SB from the parts
rep at Leblond. I couldn't be happier with the service and the
delivery. Made it to my house in 2 days. The correct part at the
price as advertised.

An unexpected bonus was the little bit of the history about my lathe
told to me by the Leblond parts rep while I was making the order.

Three cheers for Leblond.


Re: Crossfeed nut question

Joe Smith
 

On my heavy 10 original taper attachment the cross slide screw is disengaged and the cuts of diameter are adjusted using the compound.

-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas.G.Brandl@cummins.com [mailto:Thomas.G.Brandl@cummins.com]
Sent: Fri 1/31/2003 9:23 AM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question



Brian,
I don't know the design intent or operation procedure for your
aftermarket taper attachment. I don't understand why you are removing the
leadscrew. If so then how do you adjust for different cuts of diameter? If
I couldn't adjust the depth of cut, I would say this is a poor design. I'd
stick with offsetting the tailstock, then. The two operations that a taper
attachment is necessary for is large pipe threads (generally pipe threads
over 1 inch) and precision ID tapers. I have operated taper attachments on
a few comercial lathes. These, you didn't disconect the cross slide lead
screw. You did make sure the taper attachment's bed clamp was loose if you
weren't cutting a taper. I hope this helps. Did you get instructions with
this piece? Do you have photos of it? I think the home built taper
attachments that there are plans for operate much the same as the comercial
units.
Tom




"Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net>" <lurch on 01/31/2003 10:02:29 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question


Yep...this aftermarket taper attachment comes with an extension that
bolts to the stock cross-slide...but if I have to remove the leadscrew
aseembly to cut tapers, how then could that affect the nut?

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:
>
> Brian,
> The Taper type nut is a solid piece. It is not a disconect type. I
> haven't looked at the design intent as to why there are two
different types
> of nuts. I would think the taper nut is such so it won't twist with any
> side forces from the taper attachment. SB taper attachments use a
different
> cross slide. It has the long slot that the taper attachment connect
to cast
> into it in one piece. This is for the 9/10K only. The heavier lathes
have
> it bolted on. If I was to use the non taper type nut and cross slide and
> its nut does twist in operation with the taper attachment, I would
think of
> putting in a keyway to keep it aligned. Still, I would check into this a
> bit more, If I were you. Maybe some of the other board members have
a bit
> more knowlelge on this.


_____________
This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may contain
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recipient, your use, forwarding, printing, storing, disseminating,
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Re: Crossfeed nut question

Thomas G Brandl
 

Brian,
I don't know the design intent or operation procedure for your
aftermarket taper attachment. I don't understand why you are removing the
leadscrew. If so then how do you adjust for different cuts of diameter? If
I couldn't adjust the depth of cut, I would say this is a poor design. I'd
stick with offsetting the tailstock, then. The two operations that a taper
attachment is necessary for is large pipe threads (generally pipe threads
over 1 inch) and precision ID tapers. I have operated taper attachments on
a few comercial lathes. These, you didn't disconect the cross slide lead
screw. You did make sure the taper attachment's bed clamp was loose if you
weren't cutting a taper. I hope this helps. Did you get instructions with
this piece? Do you have photos of it? I think the home built taper
attachments that there are plans for operate much the same as the comercial
units.
Tom




"Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net>" <lurch on 01/31/2003 10:02:29 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question


Yep...this aftermarket taper attachment comes with an extension that
bolts to the stock cross-slide...but if I have to remove the leadscrew
aseembly to cut tapers, how then could that affect the nut?

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
The Taper type nut is a solid piece. It is not a disconect type. I
haven't looked at the design intent as to why there are two
different types
of nuts. I would think the taper nut is such so it won't twist with any
side forces from the taper attachment. SB taper attachments use a
different
cross slide. It has the long slot that the taper attachment connect
to cast
into it in one piece. This is for the 9/10K only. The heavier lathes
have
it bolted on. If I was to use the non taper type nut and cross slide and
its nut does twist in operation with the taper attachment, I would
think of
putting in a keyway to keep it aligned. Still, I would check into this a
bit more, If I were you. Maybe some of the other board members have
a bit
more knowlelge on this.

_____________
This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may contain
confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended
recipient, your use, forwarding, printing, storing, disseminating,
distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you
received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately
by replying to this message and delete it from your computer.


Re: Need advice concerning spindle bearing adjustment and spindle speeds

W
 

Frank,

After further looking I believe that the setup with 4 vee belts
running from the motor to the lower countershaft large vee groove
pulley is an original setup. I have found that this is a 2 speed 3
phase motor. The other pigtail of 3 wires was disconnected from the
switch and laying in the floor taped up behind the motor. The contact
switch is mounted under the quick change gear box and has 6 contact
locations. Different contacts pull up and open when the switch handle
position is changed. There are 5 positions. They seem to be 2
reverses, a neutral, and 2 forwards. High speed reverse being all the
way up and high speed forward being all the way down and neutral in
the middle. The pigtail of 3 wires coming out of the high speed side
of the motor is connected to the first 3 contacts. Red is first and
is 220 volts. White is second and is 120 volts. Black is connected to
the third contact and is 120 volts. The last 3 contacts have been
disconnected from. I did an ohm check on the 3 wires that are
disconnected from the contacts and they all had a reading so they are
connected to the motor side. The problem now is I don't have a wiring
diagram for this lathe so knowing which wire goes to which contact is
what I have to determine. Any suggestions?

Rush

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, kerfoot@c... wrote:
Rush
OK, It looks like it is not a 2nd belt choice. Here's another shot
at it. Did you look at the motor nameplate? By any chance is it a 2
speed motor? SB offered such things on some lathes, typically larger
lathes. Is the motor original from what you can tell? Perhaps the
motor is a replacement, where the original was 2-speed. Do you have
the original motor controller, and are there any hints to 2 speeds
there? All of the SB 2-speed motors are 3 phase. Perhaps somebody
swapped for a (single speed) single phase motor?
Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: wricwo <wricwo@y...>
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 1:19 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Need advice concerning spindle
bearing adjustment and spindle speeds


Frank,

The lathe I have has a large 4 position v groove pulley mounted
on
the counter shaft left of the lower cone and a smaller 4 position
v
groove pulley mounted on the motor shaft. All 4 grooves are the
same
diameter and there are 4 belts mounted to them for pulling. So
the
only changes you can make is with the flat belt on the 3 step
cone
pulleys. I have created a homepage at the link below you can go
to.
Once there click the blue italics Simplex Lathe subtitle under
the
lathe picture. It is a link to a Simplex Lathe page with 4 links
in
red that are specifications and pics that illustrate my lathe
that I
have prepared. One of the links in red is a spindle speed chart
showing the speeds under S and under R. I can get the speeds
under S
thru flat belt changes and going from direct to back gear drive.
I'm
still trying to figure out how to get the speeds labeled R.
Thanks.

http://www.geocities.com/wricwo/metalworkingrepairshop.html

Rush

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, kerfoot@c... wrote:
> Rush
> The link failed (at least for me). However, for South Bend
lathes
(and I expect most others) there is a countershaft which contains
a
coned pulley which drives the flat belt to the spindle coned
pulley.
This countershaft needs to turn much slower than most electric
motors, so there is an additional belt providing speed reduction
from
a small motor pulley to a large pulley on this countershaft. On
many
SB lathes this is a V-belt, although it uses a V pulley only on
the
motor shaft and a flat pulley on the countershaft. In any case,
on
most SB lathes there are 2 notches in the V pulley on the motor,
and
two steps on the flat pulley on the countershaft. Moving the V-
belt
between these provides the additional choice to get from 6 speeds
to
12. The flat pulley on the countershaft (on SB lathes)
facilitates
changing the belt position. That may or may not fit with your
lathe,
either originally or now (some parts could have been lost or
replaced).
> Frank Kerfoot
> The
> problem is that I can only get 6 of the 12 speeds by changing
belt
> positions and going from direct drive (A) to back gear (B).
On
the
> chart one set of 6 is labeled with an S (3 each under A and 3
each
> under B). The other set of 6 is labeled with an R (3 each
under A
and
> 3 each under B). I can get the speeds labeled with S. I am
still
> trying to get the R speeds. The link below will take you to a
spindle
> speed chart for this lathe for better explanation.


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Re: Crossfeed nut question

Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net> <lurch@...>
 

Yep...this aftermarket taper attachment comes with an extension that
bolts to the stock cross-slide...but if I have to remove the leadscrew
aseembly to cut tapers, how then could that affect the nut?

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
The Taper type nut is a solid piece. It is not a disconect type. I
haven't looked at the design intent as to why there are two
different types
of nuts. I would think the taper nut is such so it won't twist with any
side forces from the taper attachment. SB taper attachments use a
different
cross slide. It has the long slot that the taper attachment connect
to cast
into it in one piece. This is for the 9/10K only. The heavier lathes
have
it bolted on. If I was to use the non taper type nut and cross slide and
its nut does twist in operation with the taper attachment, I would
think of
putting in a keyway to keep it aligned. Still, I would check into this a
bit more, If I were you. Maybe some of the other board members have
a bit
more knowlelge on this.
Tom




"Brian Sherwood <lurch@t...>" <lurch on 01/31/2003 09:12:08 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question


Tom, can you be a bit more specific? I bought an aftermarket taper
attachment for mine, and although mine has the non-taper crossfeed
setup, all I do is unwind the feedscrew until the nut disengages, then
unscrew the bushing from the carriage and remove the entire feedscrew
assembly...is the 'triangle-with-rounded-top' design supposed to allow
disconnection without physical removal?

Thanks.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

THe Non-taper is a cyclinder with the thread perpendicular to the
cylinder. It fits into a round hole. The taper attachment one is
sort of
an extruded triangle lentgh wise, with a rounded top. The flat
base fits
into a shallow recess. Really very different and would be best to
just make
or buy one. I do notice that you are refering to "C's" as
non-taper and
A&B's as taper. This makes me wonder if you are wanting power cross
feed.
Many A's and B's don't have taper attachments. Maybe some C's had
it. Now
if your thinking about power cross feed, that has nothing to do
with the
nut itself. That has to do with the cross slide leads screw. These are
different and again might be a bit of work along with work to the lead
screw and an A/B apron. Hope this helps.
Tom




"twojays44 <two-jays@j...>" <two-jays on 01/30/2003 03:24:20 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Crossfeed nut question


Could someone please explain the actual physical difference between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/
More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf
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received this communication in error, please notify the sender
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by replying to this message and delete it from your computer.


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Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf
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This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended
solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may
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confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended
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received this communication in error, please notify the sender
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Re: Crossfeed nut question

Thomas G Brandl
 

Brian,
The Taper type nut is a solid piece. It is not a disconect type. I
haven't looked at the design intent as to why there are two different types
of nuts. I would think the taper nut is such so it won't twist with any
side forces from the taper attachment. SB taper attachments use a different
cross slide. It has the long slot that the taper attachment connect to cast
into it in one piece. This is for the 9/10K only. The heavier lathes have
it bolted on. If I was to use the non taper type nut and cross slide and
its nut does twist in operation with the taper attachment, I would think of
putting in a keyway to keep it aligned. Still, I would check into this a
bit more, If I were you. Maybe some of the other board members have a bit
more knowlelge on this.
Tom




"Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net>" <lurch on 01/31/2003 09:12:08 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Crossfeed nut question


Tom, can you be a bit more specific? I bought an aftermarket taper
attachment for mine, and although mine has the non-taper crossfeed
setup, all I do is unwind the feedscrew until the nut disengages, then
unscrew the bushing from the carriage and remove the entire feedscrew
assembly...is the 'triangle-with-rounded-top' design supposed to allow
disconnection without physical removal?

Thanks.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

THe Non-taper is a cyclinder with the thread perpendicular to the
cylinder. It fits into a round hole. The taper attachment one is
sort of
an extruded triangle lentgh wise, with a rounded top. The flat base fits
into a shallow recess. Really very different and would be best to
just make
or buy one. I do notice that you are refering to "C's" as non-taper and
A&B's as taper. This makes me wonder if you are wanting power cross
feed.
Many A's and B's don't have taper attachments. Maybe some C's had
it. Now
if your thinking about power cross feed, that has nothing to do with the
nut itself. That has to do with the cross slide leads screw. These are
different and again might be a bit of work along with work to the lead
screw and an A/B apron. Hope this helps.
Tom




"twojays44 <two-jays@j...>" <two-jays on 01/30/2003 03:24:20 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Crossfeed nut question


Could someone please explain the actual physical difference between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/
More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf
FAQ: TBD
Post: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
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received this communication in error, please notify the sender
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This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may contain
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recipient, your use, forwarding, printing, storing, disseminating,
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received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately
by replying to this message and delete it from your computer.


Re: Crossfeed nut question

Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net> <lurch@...>
 

Tom, can you be a bit more specific? I bought an aftermarket taper
attachment for mine, and although mine has the non-taper crossfeed
setup, all I do is unwind the feedscrew until the nut disengages, then
unscrew the bushing from the carriage and remove the entire feedscrew
assembly...is the 'triangle-with-rounded-top' design supposed to allow
disconnection without physical removal?

Thanks.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

THe Non-taper is a cyclinder with the thread perpendicular to the
cylinder. It fits into a round hole. The taper attachment one is
sort of
an extruded triangle lentgh wise, with a rounded top. The flat base fits
into a shallow recess. Really very different and would be best to
just make
or buy one. I do notice that you are refering to "C's" as non-taper and
A&B's as taper. This makes me wonder if you are wanting power cross
feed.
Many A's and B's don't have taper attachments. Maybe some C's had
it. Now
if your thinking about power cross feed, that has nothing to do with the
nut itself. That has to do with the cross slide leads screw. These are
different and again might be a bit of work along with work to the lead
screw and an A/B apron. Hope this helps.
Tom




"twojays44 <two-jays@j...>" <two-jays on 01/30/2003 03:24:20 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Crossfeed nut question


Could someone please explain the actual physical difference between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


--
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Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf
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Heavy Ten bed regrind

sbwest2002
 

I just got my Heavy Ten Toolroom Lathe Bed back from South Bend
where they reground the 4' bed and scraped in the saddle. The ways
are in excellent condition. The saddle was scraped to fit the bed
and was surprised to find they also scraped in the crosslide
surfaces. I had already carefully scraped in the crosslide flat and
parallel because I thought I would need it as a tool to scrape in
the crosslide surfaces. Saved me a lot of time.
While it was in South Bend I had a chance to inspect the 5 C
headstock, apron, gearbox, and the telescoping taper attachment.
Found them all in very good condition. This 30 some year old lathe
was sold to Amp Corp and from the copper shavings was not used for
heavy duty stuff. The full collet stuff that came with it looks like
it may have been used that way, with little threading ,etc.
The 2 speed motor and pushbutton control also look great. I got a
new ad from SB and found at todays prices of the optional 2 speed
motor and controls would have bought me this lathe with lots of
extras and the cost of regrinding.
The new SB Heavy Ten Toolroom lathe they sell today looks and has
all the same equipment as mine except it has a 4-1/2' bed and
hardened ways. It lists ( April 1, 2000 ) at $ 16,000 and the 2
speed motor and controll is $ 2,200 in adition not counting tax and
shipping.
Needless to say I am looking forward to putting everything back
together and running it.
For you guys on the fence to bring your lathes to great shape call
Randy Reynolds 1-800-245-2843 at South Bend and get a quote. Great
guy to deal with.
Walt


Re: Taper Attachment

pherdie1 <pherdie@hotmail.com> <pherdie@...>
 

Bill Collins was gracious enough to recently post plans for a taper
attachment on the Prints and Plans group (thanks Bill).

Has anyone constructed this item, or one similar and can offer any
insight? Any limitations over manufacturer supplied units???

The plans, published originally in Popular Mechanics, date from the
early 60's. With advances it technology and availabilty of other
materials, could any of our resident experts offer advice with
respect to updated construction modifications????

Thanks,

Fred


Re: headstock setup

bill stuart
 

chips,, thanks for the spec on the lift check..will
be no problem.. thanks for the attachment/// didnt
print the best but saved to disk perfect... stirboy
--- Webb <grotto-man@erols.com> wrote:
Hi Stirboy,

Look at the attached file under the "CHECKING THE
HEADSTOCK." This should provide the information you
require.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
ATTACHMENT part 2 image/jpeg
name=SBL_10H_Spindle4.jpg



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Re: Crossfeed nut question

Thomas G Brandl
 

THe Non-taper is a cyclinder with the thread perpendicular to the
cylinder. It fits into a round hole. The taper attachment one is sort of
an extruded triangle lentgh wise, with a rounded top. The flat base fits
into a shallow recess. Really very different and would be best to just make
or buy one. I do notice that you are refering to "C's" as non-taper and
A&B's as taper. This makes me wonder if you are wanting power cross feed.
Many A's and B's don't have taper attachments. Maybe some C's had it. Now
if your thinking about power cross feed, that has nothing to do with the
nut itself. That has to do with the cross slide leads screw. These are
different and again might be a bit of work along with work to the lead
screw and an A/B apron. Hope this helps.
Tom




"twojays44 <two-jays@juno.com>" <two-jays on 01/30/2003 03:24:20 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Crossfeed nut question


Could someone please explain the actual physical difference between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


--
Web: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/
More pix: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
Newbie guide: http://smaa.techwood.net/SBL/Newbie.pdf
FAQ: TBD
Post: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Email Moderators: southbendlathe-owner@yahoogroups.com
* * * * *
Manage your subscription by sending a blank message as follows:
Unsubscribe: southbendlathe-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Stop delivery: southbendlathe-nomail@yahoogroups.com
Daily digest mode: southbendlathe-digest@yahoogroups.com
Individual emails: southbendlathe-normal@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







_____________
This e-mail transmission and any attachments to it are intended solely for
the use of the individual or entity to whom it is addressed and may contain
confidential and privileged information. If you are not the intended
recipient, your use, forwarding, printing, storing, disseminating,
distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you
received this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately
by replying to this message and delete it from your computer.


Crossfeed nut question

twojays44 <two-jays@juno.com> <two-jays@...>
 

Could someone please explain the actual physical difference between
the x-feed nut for the 9"C [non-taper attachment] and the nut for the
9"A&B [taper-attachment models?

Can the C-type be modified to be idendical, or at least suitable?

In the event drawings are needed to explain it, I can read DXF or
DWG, as well as Mastercam.

Thanks,

Johnny


Re: quick change gearbox problem?

gorvil
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Hugh <hughmcc@e...>"
<hughmcc@e...> wrote:
Snip>

Half nut on carriage: that lever seems to only move a few degrees
(when carriage/cross-feed shift is in neutral). Is that correct?
How do I know if it works?

thanks again for all the help!

It should move about 10 or 15 degrees. You can tell if it works
because it will grab the leadscrew and you wont be able to move the
saddle with the handwheel anymore. You can also see the nuts engage
with a flashlight and maybe a mirror under the apron. You may need
to jiggle the saddle a little or have the leadscrew turning to engage
the nuts.

There is an interlock between the crossfeed/longitudinal feed shift
lever to keep the halfnuts from engaging at the same time. Check
this too.


Glen Reeser


Re: quick change gearbox problem?

Brian Sherwood <lurch@theramp.net> <lurch@...>
 

two more--
groups.yahoo.com/group/metalcasters
and
groups.yahoo.com/group/metalcasting

lurch

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "JohnW <John.Walker@a...>"
<John.Walker@a...> wrote:
Hugh
For metal casting try
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/messages
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast/messages

John

Your site is looking good. I am going to build a small foundry
(per
Gingery..I may have the speeling wrong) but need to use bottled gas
due to being in one of those neighborhoods with small yards.
Is there a metal casting yahoo group?


Re: quick change gearbox problem?

JohnW <John.Walker@atcopower.ca> <John.Walker@...>
 

Hugh
For metal casting try
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gingery_machines/messages
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast/messages

John

Your site is looking good. I am going to build a small foundry
(per
Gingery..I may have the speeling wrong) but need to use bottled gas
due to being in one of those neighborhoods with small yards.
Is there a metal casting yahoo group?


Re: headstock setup

Webb <grotto-man@...>
 

Hi Stirboy,
 
Look at the attached file under the "CHECKING THE HEADSTOCK."  This should provide the information you require.
 
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
 


headstock setup

bill stuart
 

last question reminded me of something.. what are the
specs for bearing to spindle clearance for the L10 and
how is it set up?? being a split sleeve encapsulated
on the spindle other than disassembly how do we check
clearances between spindle and ID of brgs. and OD of
brgs. and the brg.caps on the drive and chuck end of
spindle?? is this a simple lift check or some type of
shim/plastiguage pinch check?? thanks all stirboy

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