On gym incidents: An "errant" toss of an aluminum javelin during a recent gym class at the high school I abut ended up bridging 2 legs of a 23 kV transmission line. I heard that, before the substation tripped out taking down a section of the town, the hummmmm could be heard for almost a block. Would have loved to have seen the expression on some faces that day!

Mike,

Here are three good ones:

http://www.wswells.com/

http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/index.html

and join southbendmanual group, that is our library, look through files section but post questions here not there:

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/southbendmanual/files


Ed S

Edward Draper <eddie.draper@...> writes:

My scariest moment was when turning the links for the parallel motion
of the beam engine between centres to create a pleasing barrel shape. 
Dug the tool in, the job bent in the middle and came flying out and
hit  me right between the eyes.  Fortunately father always insisted on
my wearing protective goggles, so I was completely unscathed. 
"Scariest moments" thread anyone?   Eddie

Remember a couple weeks ago when I was asking about the parting tool
bending?

A few weeks before that, I was parting off and I suddenly heard a
*sproing* and a thump and it stopped cutting. I realized something was
wrong, then realized the parting tool was completely missing, THEN heard
a clang as it hit the ground. I found it a week later under a workbench.

Everyone in the workshop always wears glasses.

David Rysdam <david@...> writes:

Looks a little pricey for something that would only take a couple hours
to make. Of course, the accuracy would be far less, but then I don't
need phenomonal accuracy. I just need something better than the 3 jaw is
giving me when I clean up the backs of the rings.

Oh, looks like this pair would be cheaper:

http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3atnose
http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3at3pot

Even if I never use the adapter for anything but that collet, it's still
cheaper than just the 3C adapter. I don't see any new 3AT collets being
sold anywhere, so that's a real possibility.

"Jim B. " <btdtrf@...> writes:

You would need a taper adapter sleeve for your lathe, to take 3C if
you do not have one and a Nose piece if you do not have one

Your offer of the 6K tooling is kind, but I would never be able to bring
myself to alter something that isn't being made anymore.

I see a taper adapter sleeve here:

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2240&category=

Looks a little pricey for something that would only take a couple hours
to make. Of course, the accuracy would be far less, but then I don't
need phenomonal accuracy. I just need something better than the 3 jaw is
giving me when I clean up the backs of the rings.

As for the nose piece--do you mean one that is different from the
spindle nose piece I already use with the few 6K collets I have?
Something specially shaped to the pot collet "head"?

Any favorites in your reading list along these lines, Ed?

mike

This was just posted today. What do you guys think?

Mike,

I am just a beginner, but I read a lot. If you are in north California. There is an expert in Portland Or, He has redone about a 100 lathes. I have visited his shop and I bet he would help you out. If you are interested I can hook you up.

Look at pictures here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/5156498202/in/photostream/

Ed S

Hi Ed!

Good question on the saddle. Looks like I need to "mark" it. to see what kind of contact it has on the bearing surfaces ways, right? I have about a 10 inch bar of some sort made by starrett that seems to have nice ground, but I don't think, scraped surfaces.  I can use the surface plate at school to check it.  My machine shop instructor is a real ace... just a real font of knowledge, and is real encouraging!! At any rate, we can surely tune things  up to be some level of "standard". I am gathering a standard should, ideally be longer than the longest item to scrape? I'm new to this so there are big areas I am very thin with. I do have access to  a 60 inch granite surface plate just outside my office door that no one ever uses... lucky me!!

First, I plan to use the tail stock to get a grasp on how much wear is on the the outer ways of the new bed in the common wear area. The original scraping is still plainly visible in the headstock area. I would call it 60 to 70 percent. What is a decent number. I can do the same on the old bed as the the center ways are clean in the headstock region.

Looks like there is a period where the transition ocurred in "38-39" by the listings I've looked at. I noted a couple of lathes with top oilers on the list within a couple of hundred serial numbers either way of mine... transition period in the pipeline?

I believe I do have all the change gears.  It there something I should look for that is telling me something?

I really am not committed to any course of action other than making a nice serviceable machine that I can do nice accurate work on. I am not against havingthe bed on the 4 1/2' machine as they are, apparently relatively uncommon. It will not go to waste, for sure. If you know of a place to get the ways, saddle, and tailstock  done in Nor Cal redone, I am not against that at all.

Put the frosting under the saddle? Ah So!!! I looked carefully and it is all gone.  The saddle gib  shows traces of frosting. To check place saddle on precision round bars in the "V"s and measure to a Datum on the underside of the saddle? differences show wear and expect the most in the operator side of the saddle?

The base of the tailstock shows no frosting but noticeable wear maybe 1 to 1.5 inches at either end and the center 5 inches or so it is unfrosted but I'm barely able to pickup a fingernail on the worn area.

Only drawback it seems, is the headstock on the top oiler is usually not equipped with a hardened spindle.  Generally, being kind to your machine makes that a not so big of an issue. More than any thing else, a power crossfeed is the big ticket item for me as my hands are not so nimble any more.

Thanks Ed,  you sure seem to know your stuff.

Mike

Mike,

Welcome to the group.

The big question from me … does the saddle actually fit the ways on the new bed? Usually they have to be hand fitted.

Also if the bed is worn the saddle is worn even
more. It is softer. Cast iron vs. steel. Yet yours is not???

Paint, we can ship that part.

Head stock, top oiler in 39’; that’s
interesting. (not a "C" but a change gear
lathe... "C" came later), do you have all the change gears?

The difference is the top oiler is a lost oil
system; you have to keep adding oil because it
just runs out the bearings and oils other
parts. But you always have fresh oil in the
bearing. The drip oilers are a good idea. See
attached. I have two lathes that are top oilers and will add the drip oilers.

Oh… the frosting got sloppy because they started
to let the apprentices do that. But why would you
want to remove perfectly good steel from the top
of the bed is another good question for SB. I
know about sticktion, but usually you frost the
parts you cannot see i.e. under the saddle.

This will be an interesting project, keep us posted.

ED S

Can a 10k spindle be used in any 9" workshop? Does it give youba bigger through-hole?

Kaleb Sells
Oklahoma

Thanks guys!! Very impressive!  I'm still gathering sources of info on these old guys.  There is lots of data to find on production data and variations, but lots of searching needed to find it!

I'm new to this group and have not found all the nuggets of source data. Is there a list of links  of any sort. Or better a well researched book  on the subject of SBL production?
again thanks.

I know it is blasphemy, but I have  a pint of Hemi orange POR 15 engine paint. That should spice up my shop over the machine grey, dontcha think??

Well, it's off on an data expedition.

A frriend has what he calls a 1928 "heavy 9"... single tumbler, 5 or 6 way turret. He found the 42 inch bed for me it is 116xxx sn range... looks like within a year of so, "40" or "41" by sbwells' listing. Minimal wear it looks like.  Scraping or frosting is really is very simple, but the frosting (chipping?) is clearly visible, even in poor light even in the headstock area. I understand depression era machines were utilitarian rather than the real pretty artsy fartsy stuff. Simple and utilitarian... the best product for the lowest labor cost?

I'll watch that note on QCGB  on spacing. I am toying with the thought of a QCGB... not essential but certainly a nice addition. That and a powered apron is very tempting.

thanks!!

mike

Dave,
         They are different. The two main differences are the threads and the front angle. I am guessing you have a 3C collet or 3C Pot collet. I do not know the size 'OD' of these rings. There are also soft collets or 'Emergency' collets. Not sure of the availability of these in 3C or 6K. I could see that you could adapt a 3C collet or even a 3C pot collet to work. The 1K spindle would take the 3C SB adapter. Not sure of the thru hole though. Then you could make a sleeve threads ID and OD. ID for 3C threads, and OD for 6K threads. That is if you have a 6K  closer. If a pot collet, then you could make a closer ring for it. Thread it onto the spindle, the cut an angle counter to the angle on the pot collet. On PM, in the Monarch section on guy did this. Not easy finding Monarch stuff. I do have one for my 10EE, but don't have the complete lever closer set up.  
                                                                                Tom



From:        David Rysdam <david@...>
To:        SOUTHBENDLATHE@...
Date:        04/01/2014 01:49 PM
Subject:        [SOUTHBENDLATHE] 3C vs 6K
Sent by:        SOUTHBENDLATHE@...

---

 

For my decoder ring project, I think I want to use a pot collet (why are
they called that?) to clean up the back sides after parting. But I don't
want to chase down and pay for a 6K one.

In the mailing list archives, I find claims that the 10K spindle can
take a 3C collet, although you need a different closer because of
non-matching threads. (Online I've found claims that the collets are
totally different, but I guess I can trust the SB mailing list over some
guy on PM.)

However, I have the speed closer and I'd prefer not to give that up. Is
there an easy way to non-destructively modify that to be both 3C and 6K?
Can just the tube be replaced? This would be especially nice if I do a
mini-run of ~5 pairs of rings, which would be 30 pieces of similar
diameters. Wouldn't have to crank the handwheel all those times for each
piece...

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