Date   

Will micrometer carriage stop that fits 10K also fit 9"?

Mark Long
 

I have a carriage stop stop I have personally bolted
to a SB 10K lathe and fits perfect. can I assume that
this carriage stop will also fit a SB 9"?

I have heard that these parts are interchangeable
between the 10K (light 10) and the 9".

Thanks for your reply.

Mark Long



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Re: Jacobs chucks

Alex <alex41@...>
 

        The chuck from which the arbor will not come off is an 11N. It has the straight shank on it. The chuck does not say anything about the size of the taper. All the catalogs that sell these chucks new say it has a 2JT. I looked at it again. It has no nut on the inside and appears to be no visible threads between the arbor and the chuck.
 
        I also have two 14N chucks. One says it has a 3JT and the other says nothing on it. A different year of manufacture I am sure. The one that says nothing on it came without an arbor and it has a 3JT taper in it.
 
Thanks,
Alex

 
Hi Alex.You might want to open the jaws of the chuck and look down
inside the chuck and see if ther is a screw at the bottom of the
chuck.Some of these chucks have a screw to help hold the chuck onto
the arbor.If ther is,it will probably be left hand threads.Take the
screw out and the place the arbor in a vise and then see if it will
unscrew from the arbor or can be driven off.Just a thought.
Bill C.



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Re: Jacobs chucks

Bill Collins <bill_collins14@yahoo.com> <bill_collins14@...>
 

Hi Alex.You might want to open the jaws of the chuck and look down
inside the chuck and see if ther is a screw at the bottom of the
chuck.Some of these chucks have a screw to help hold the chuck onto
the arbor.If ther is,it will probably be left hand threads.Take the
screw out and the place the arbor in a vise and then see if it will
unscrew from the arbor or can be driven off.Just a thought.
Bill C.


Re: Jacobs chucks

k3vyl
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Alex" <alex41@i...> wrote:
Dear Group,

I hope this is not too far off topic, but here goes. I have
picked
up a few Jacobs Super Ball Bearing drill chucks. The price was not
to
extravagant and I neet to put a different arbor in two of them and
press one
apart to replace the jaws. This all seemed like a wonderful cost
saving idea
until I tried it.
How do you get that #$%^&^ arbor out of the back of the
chuck? The
one I am working on now is a 3/8" chuck with a 1/2" straight arbor
on the
back. The straight arbor is a bit bent so it can't be used. I want
a MT#2
arbor on it for my drill press anyway. I do have the wedges from
Jacob's to

That chuck should be marked as to whether its a threaded body or a
jacobs taper etc.In the spaces between the holes for the key there
are stampings giving the model and other vital stats.I would remove
the jaws and sleeve before you really put any pressure on the
body.The instructions are on the jacobs website.They say to support
the sleeve on your vice jaws,but I bored out some sleeves that work
better(drift tubes).Also good for reassembly.Make sure you are using
the right wedges,there are several sizes.There may also be markings
on the arbor.Good luck. RC
seperate them. I placed the straight arbor in my vise and pushed -
OK
hammered the wedges together to try and pop of the arbor but it
only slides
in the vise jaws. The vise is a decent Craftsman one and I am
tightening it
as much as I can but it keeps sliding out. I have not tired heating
the
chuck yet and see that as a last resort unless someone has had
experience
with this. The center of the chuck has a hole in it and I have
tried to use
a punch only to bend the punches. I have tried some penetrating oil
with no
success.
I have thought about trying to drill it out but am afraid I
may ruin
the smooth taper in the chuck.

Any ideas, comments, suggestions?

Thanks,
Alex


Re: Jacobs chucks

davecn2001
 

If it's any help some are threaded.
Cheers
Dave

----- Original Message -----
From: Alex
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 11:33 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Jacobs chucks

Dear Group,
 
        I hope this is not too far off topic, but here goes. I have picked up a few Jacobs Super Ball Bearing drill chucks. The price was not to extravagant and I neet to put a different arbor in two of them and press one apart to replace the jaws. This all seemed like a wonderful cost saving idea until I tried it.
        How do you get that #$%^&^ arbor out of the back of the chuck? The one I am working on now is a 3/8" chuck with a 1/2" straight arbor on the back. The straight arbor is a bit bent so it can't be used. I want a MT#2 arbor on it for my drill press anyway. I do have the wedges from Jacob's to seperate them. I placed the straight arbor in my vise and pushed - OK hammered the wedges together to try and pop of the arbor but it only slides in the vise jaws. The vise is a decent Craftsman one and I am tightening it as much as I can but it keeps sliding out. I have not tired heating the chuck yet and see that as a last resort unless someone has had experience with this. The center of the chuck has a hole in it and I have tried to use a punch only to bend the punches. I have tried some penetrating oil with no success.
        I have thought about trying to drill it out but am afraid I may ruin the smooth taper in the chuck.
 
Any ideas, comments, suggestions?
 
Thanks,
Alex
 
   


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Re: Jacobs chucks

dkinzer2000 <dkinzer@easystreet.com> <dkinzer@...>
 

I posted a similar question on a different board (that is now read-
only). Several different solutions were provided. See the original
message for the responses:

http://www.chaski.com/cgi-bin/webbbs_machine/webbbs_config.pl?
read=107519

Don Kinzer
Portland, OR


Re: Jacobs chucks

Latheworks <latheworks@...>
 

Here goes!
 
- Drill and tap (as you big as you can) the end of the arbor.
- Place arbor in vice with enough room to place your wedges
- From the other end, screw a bolt with a heavy washer until you butt against  the side of the jaws of your vice.
- Place wedge on other end and smack the day lights out of the sucker!
 
If this does not cure the problem, it could be screwed in!
 
Hope this helps
 
Rgds
 
Latheworks
 
 

----- Original Message -----
From: Alex
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 11:33 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Jacobs chucks

Dear Group,
 
        I hope this is not too far off topic, but here goes. I have picked up a few Jacobs Super Ball Bearing drill chucks. The price was not to extravagant and I neet to put a different arbor in two of them and press one apart to replace the jaws. This all seemed like a wonderful cost saving idea until I tried it.
        How do you get that #$%^&^ arbor out of the back of the chuck? The one I am working on now is a 3/8" chuck with a 1/2" straight arbor on the back. The straight arbor is a bit bent so it can't be used. I want a MT#2 arbor on it for my drill press anyway. I do have the wedges from Jacob's to seperate them. I placed the straight arbor in my vise and pushed - OK hammered the wedges together to try and pop of the arbor but it only slides in the vise jaws. The vise is a decent Craftsman one and I am tightening it as much as I can but it keeps sliding out. I have not tired heating the chuck yet and see that as a last resort unless someone has had experience with this. The center of the chuck has a hole in it and I have tried to use a punch only to bend the punches. I have tried some penetrating oil with no success.
        I have thought about trying to drill it out but am afraid I may ruin the smooth taper in the chuck.
 
Any ideas, comments, suggestions?
 
Thanks,
Alex
 
   


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FAQ: TBD
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Jacobs chucks

Alex <alex41@...>
 

Dear Group,
 
        I hope this is not too far off topic, but here goes. I have picked up a few Jacobs Super Ball Bearing drill chucks. The price was not to extravagant and I neet to put a different arbor in two of them and press one apart to replace the jaws. This all seemed like a wonderful cost saving idea until I tried it.
        How do you get that #$%^&^ arbor out of the back of the chuck? The one I am working on now is a 3/8" chuck with a 1/2" straight arbor on the back. The straight arbor is a bit bent so it can't be used. I want a MT#2 arbor on it for my drill press anyway. I do have the wedges from Jacob's to seperate them. I placed the straight arbor in my vise and pushed - OK hammered the wedges together to try and pop of the arbor but it only slides in the vise jaws. The vise is a decent Craftsman one and I am tightening it as much as I can but it keeps sliding out. I have not tired heating the chuck yet and see that as a last resort unless someone has had experience with this. The center of the chuck has a hole in it and I have tried to use a punch only to bend the punches. I have tried some penetrating oil with no success.
        I have thought about trying to drill it out but am afraid I may ruin the smooth taper in the chuck.
 
Any ideas, comments, suggestions?
 
Thanks,
Alex
 
   


Re: How Do I Remove The Spindle From The Head Stock?

gorvil
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "rtudan <dregnier@v...>" <dregnier@v...> wrote:

I just purchased this lathe for $100. I want to Completely
dissasemble it so I can Paint and restore. This is an older 9b with
the separate drive system. I can't seem to figure out how the
spindle is removed. There aren't any "caps" that hold the bearing in
place but there is 1 bolt on each side that crush and hold the
bearing in place. Does anybody have a link to a diagram of how this
is installed.


You are a lucky fellow if the $100.00 lathe is any good at all.



http://people.ne.mediaone.net/wasser/SBLathe/index.html



This link from the links section of the group usually works. For some reason I get an error message when I tried it today.



There is also a US Army SBL Manual. I don't have the link on this computer. Maybe someone else has it handy.



The spindle is removed by loosening the two bearing bolts, removing the split nut at the back end of the spindle (you will have to loosen the set screw), and with a block of wood between your properly sized hammer and the back of the spindle, force it out. The bull gear at the front of the cone gear is usually where the resistance comes from.



Watch out for the spring loaded felts in the bottom of the bearings. There are holes just above the oilers for pins to hold the felts down for reassembly.



Glen Reeser


Re: Parts List Scans

Bill Collins <bill_collins14@yahoo.com> <bill_collins14@...>
 

Hi Frank.Most of the documentation I have is for older SB's.This is
stuff I found here on the web and printed out.My SB was made in
1965.It was sold to a school in Detroit when new.Anyway $10 bucks for
a manual that would cover this model would be just the ticket.I have
a couple of cannons to finish and I think I already have buyers for
them.So as soon as I get them sold,I'll take and try to get a more up
to date manual.I hear it has a lot of good information.Everything I
know about running a lathe is from what I have read and taught myself.
Ther is still a lot of stuff I don't know yet.But I am a quick
learner.I haven't attempted to try threading yet.Just reluctant I
guess.Thanks for the info,much appreciated.Thanks and God Bless.
Bill C.


How Do I Remove The Spindle From The Head Stock?

rtudan <dregnier@vtc.net> <dregnier@...>
 

I just purchased this lathe for $100. I want to Completely
dissasemble it so I can Paint and restore. This is an older 9b with
the separate drive system. I can't seem to figure out how the
spindle is removed. There aren't any "caps" that hold the bearing in
place but there is 1 bolt on each side that crush and hold the
bearing in place. Does anybody have a link to a diagram of how this
is installed.


Re: Parts List Scans

frankkerfoot
 

Bill
I don't think I have anything like 100 pages. I have the original, heavy stock paper documents which came with my 1957 Heavy 10, and all the parts lists, etc (original, I believe) which came with a 1958 or so Light 10. I also have photocopies of the parts lists, etc, which came with a late 1960's heavy 10. The latter of course overlaps greatly with the mid-50's heavy 10 stuff, but shows upgrades such as the lever clutch. A lot of the light 10 sheets are shared with the 9". My primary interest, of course, is heavy 10 documentation, since that is what I have.
Frank

 
Hi Frank.I have a pretty decent collection also.I have done extensive
searches for any information I can find for my SB9C.I've printed out
everything I have found and have pretty close to 100 pages of
reference.


Re: Parts List Scans

frankkerfoot
 

Bill
Depending on the vintage of your lathe, a fellow in the Pacific NW apparently has a crate or so of new copies of the original 1950 edition of "How to Run a Lathe". He used to sell them direct for something in the $8-10 range, advertizing in rec.crafts.metalworking. Now he sells them through Ebay, and they typically sell in the same price range I believe. The Lindsay reprint is of the 1942 edition. They share a lot of material, but the book kept getting updated with then current lathes. So for instance the 1950 edition has all the tooling dimensions, etc, for the 1950 vintage machines, as well as photos, etc for that vintage. The 1942 reprint has no such list, even for the older machines. Of course for less than $10 each you could go for both.
Frank
...
Lindsay (sp?) - the folks who reprint all sorts of old books, sells
reprints of the "How To Run A Lathe." 


Re: Parts List Scans

Bill Collins <bill_collins14@yahoo.com> <bill_collins14@...>
 

HI Stan.I may try to get a copy as soon as I can sell a couple of
cannons.I get Lindsay's catalogs,thats where I saw the book
at.Thanks.GB.
Bill C.


Re: Parts List Scans

Stan Stocker <skstocker@...>
 

Hi Bill;

Lindsay (sp?) - the folks who reprint all sorts of old books, sells reprints of the "How To Run A Lathe." If you're going to Cabin Fever, Tony at Nation Builder Books is sure to have several copies, the folks at PM Research will likely have a few copies as well.

If you want an original, the on line used book dealers are probably the best bet.

Cheers,
Stan

Bill Collins wrote:

Hi Frank.I have a pretty decent collection also.I have done extensive searches for any information I can find for my SB9C.I've printed out everything I have found and have pretty close to 100 pages of reference.The only information I don't have is a copy of "Running A Lathe".But I'm sure I may run across that too someday.Well hopefully anyhow.Just a thought.Thanks and God Bless.
Bill C.


Re: Parts List Scans

Bill Collins <bill_collins14@yahoo.com> <bill_collins14@...>
 

Hi Frank.I have a pretty decent collection also.I have done extensive
searches for any information I can find for my SB9C.I've printed out
everything I have found and have pretty close to 100 pages of
reference.The only information I don't have is a copy of "Running A
Lathe".But I'm sure I may run across that too someday.Well hopefully
anyhow.Just a thought.Thanks and God Bless.
Bill C.


Re: Parts List Scans

frankkerfoot
 

Anthony
I have a pretty decent collection of SB documents, so I'm reluctant to request the whole set. Do you have an index listing the form numbers (or other identifying numbers) for the sheets you have? As an added bonus, if there are any I have that you don't you are welcome to a copy. Alternatively I can make a list and you can tell me what you have that I don't and vice-versa.
Frank Kerfoot

I've started sending out parts list scans to the persons who requested to
receive them.


Re: Milling attachment

Okey Caynor <cal5@...>
 

That really was my concern RC. This is a brand spanking new palmgren that came to me from my father in law's shop when he passed away several years ago, and has never been used. I think he may have intended to use it on the old Hendy converted line shaft lathe that is still in the old shop building. Doubt if I will ever get around to resuscitating that old beast, so I was considering using this palmgren on the SB, but the 4" really appears to be too large for the 9"SB, hence my original question.
 
 Anybody out there that has a SB milling attachment and a set of collets etc that they might want to trade for this big Palmgren ? I think I have just about every every attachment for the SB except the milling attachment, collets, and a taper attachment.
 
Okey Caynor

-----Original Message-----
From: k3vyl [mailto:k3vyl@...]
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 2:20 PM
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Milling attachment

--- In southbendlathe@..., "Okey Caynor"
wrote:
>  Has anyone used a 4" palmgren milling attachment on a 9" SB and
can offer
> any advice/ help, or pics as to how they mounted it ?
>
> Okey Caynor
  I had a 21/2" palmgren and it was really to big for the 9" lathe.I
returned it and got a 1 1/2" palmgren.Its about all the 9" lathe can
handle.Unfortunately the 1 1/2 palmgren is out of print,from what I
heard.    RC


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Re: Milling attachment

k3vyl
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Okey Caynor" <cal5@f...>
wrote:
Has anyone used a 4" palmgren milling attachment on a 9" SB and
can offer
any advice/ help, or pics as to how they mounted it ?

Okey Caynor
I had a 21/2" palmgren and it was really to big for the 9" lathe.I
returned it and got a 1 1/2" palmgren.Its about all the 9" lathe can
handle.Unfortunately the 1 1/2 palmgren is out of print,from what I
heard. RC


Re: Lubrication Help

Paul R. Hvidston <paul@...>
 

That's the stuff! You can even find it at boating, hunting and auto parts
stores.

Paul R. Hvidston
ACKSYS Engineering
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: <jpkull@yahoo.com>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Lubrication Help


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Ron McGill" <mcgillron@h...>
wrote:

A friend of mine ordered this lube from South Bend Lathe and was sent
a tube of "Super Lube w/ Teflon". This same item is available from MSC
at a fraction of the cost. MSC #00257006

96281 - 96300 of 104865