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Re: POTD (OT)
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
>What a beautiful little car! From the time I was a child, when a friend of my Dad had one, I wanted one of those. Now that I am old enough to afford one, I can't get in and out of them anymore, because they are too low to the ground. (sigh...) � Well done! Good luck with the rest of the project. � >Chet I don’t fit well either, but I can get in with some effort.
Jim B.
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Re: POTD (OT) [2 Attachments]
Chester Bishop
What a beautiful little car! From the time I was a child, when a friend of my Dad had one, I wanted one of those. Now that I am old enough to afford one, I can't get in and out of them anymore, because they are too low to the ground. (sigh...)
Well done! Good luck with the rest of the project.
Chet
On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Jim B. <btdtrf@...> wrote:
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Re: POTD
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
I said pressure washer, it was a steam cleaner.
Jim B Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX
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Re: POTD
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
>Jim B,
That was an LNG tank. I had rented a pressure washer to clean up the frame and engine. BTW that picture was when I lived in Lake Park Florida.
Jim B.
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Re: POTD
Flash Gordon
Jim B,
What is in that big tank behind the car frame on the two wheeler. First I thought it was acetylene, but it looks like a liquid hose attached. The Morris Garage looks great. When you get it done I will come visit and you can take us for a ride. Maybe I will drive my Mustang there. Ed S
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Re: POTD (OT) [2 Attachments]
Mark Hofer
Truly a labor of love and looking great! Good luck with the restart!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
M
On May 24, 2013, at 10:15 AM, Jim B. wrote:
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Re: POTD (OT)
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
>But, but....I wanna see the CAR! :-) >Chester Bishop
The car is in an on going state of restoration. It has been for 45 years. In the past few months I have not been too active for some medical reasons. I am trying to get things ready to start the engine. That was rebuilt about 26 years ago. Attached are two pictures, a before and one form late December of 2012. The before dates from 1967. The body is sheet metal over a wooden frame. Both the frame and the wood needed a lot of work. Since the Dec 2012 picture, the full bonnet had been installed but the bumpers and head lights are off again. The doors and fuel tank are still in prime. I am in the process of running the fuel line.
Jim B.
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Re: HEAVY 10 ASSEMBLY
ALAN WHEATLEY
Hi Alec The locating pin does not have to be a precision fit in the bed and the headstock. It's purpose is simply to keep the headstock in alignment with the gears on the banjo and the gearbox -- this saves you a few minutes of assembly time. Alan
On 23/05/2013 20:52, armne@... wrote:
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Re: POTD
Chester Bishop
But, but....I wanna see the CAR! :-)
On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Jim B. <btdtrf@...> wrote:
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Re: SB9 crossfeed and compound handle nut thread
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
thread seems a tad larger than 10-24 and smaller than 12-24. Does anyone know their size?It is a #12. We need to know if your spindle uses Cast Iron or Bronze bearings, but there are shims setting the fit of the spindle. Look in the files section for the procedure. Jim B Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX
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Re: SB9 crossfeed and compound handle nut thread
Marti
Mine are both 12-24 on a 1945 9A
For spindle bearing adjustments, here is a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oS0DQusUR0w
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SB9 crossfeed and compound handle nut thread
David
I acquired a SB9a lathe in pieces and trying to get it back together to begin learning basic machining (I'm brand new at it). The handles were off the crossfeed and compound shafts and as a result sometime in their history the 3 or 4 treads got mashed. There's enough to work with but the thread seems a tad larger than 10-24 and smaller than 12-24. Does anyone know their size?
Also I can feel movement in the Spindle predominately in the up/down direction. This lathe has but one tightening bolt front/back and shims and I don't see any bushings on the parts list. I know I can adjust the shims to takeout some of the clearance but what about if there's unequal wear?
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Re: POTD
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
Thank you Nelson
Jim B Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX
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Re: POTD
Jim Very nice work, it makes all the difference in the world to make compared to buy someones knock-off. Yours will go more than a couple of life times. A turret set up with the right tooling would make it a profitable venture. As is a labor of love is different. Thanks for sharing. Nelson Collar
From: Jim B. To: southbendlathe@... Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:21 PM Subject: [southbendlathe] POTD This is my first project in a long time. I hope the text and links are OK. Flckr is giving me grief. I think I will go back to Photobucket.
MG TD SIDE CURTAIN DOOR SOCKETS.
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POTD
Jim B. <btdtrf@...>
This is my first project in a long time. I hope the text and links are OK. Flckr is giving me grief. I think I will go back to Photobucket.
MG TD SIDE CURTAIN DOOR SOCKETS.
On the TD doors there are a set of sockets used to anchor the side curtains. These hare 1-3/8” long, with a 9/16-20 55 degree thread (BSS) and they have a BSF 3/8 hex. I don’t have a match set. The ones I have appear to be non magnetic but not brass. Perhaps pot metal, chrome plated. I could get some for about $7 each but I have been warned that the after market ones are not very good. I have been looking at this job for over a month now but just have not been up to it until the last two days.
Since I had a piece of 7/8 303, long enough for the job I decided to make two.
Starting with the Heavy 10, and using a 7/8 collet, I left about 2” of stock sticking out. I first turned the bar to 11/16 OD for a distance of 1-3/8”
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5468/8806721948_69d681cebd_o.jpg
Note that (lower left) I am using a shop made way mounted dial indicator with 2” of travel to measure the step length.
Next I turn a 9/16” by 1-3/16” step.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5348/8796141969_8e643b4337_o.jpg
Using the same approach. I will need to chase the thread next but first I add a thread relief with a 0.070 wide parting tool.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/8796142119_28dda2eb7f_o.jpg
With the relief in I can start threading but I also add a bevel on the starting end
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/8806723090_81e1441fef_o.jpg
The first pass was 0.010 ( at 29.5 degrees) deep. The second was the same. Next came a free pass. The third 0.005” and the 4 was 0.004” I then advanced the cross slide 0.0005 and took a finish cut. In the above picture you will note the tool is colored RED. That’s how I tell my BS/Whitworth cutting tools.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3805/8806722792_8da0bd22bd_o.jpg
I measured the thread using shop made thread wires and compared it to the original I am copying. I adjusted the depth so that the threads match.
With the thread finished I want to drill out the body to 25/64. I start by using a center drill.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/8806723800_cf0bc290c1_o.jpg
Then I drill 1-3/16 deep using ¼” 3/8” and 25/64 drills. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/8796143333_1ac8a3f6ee_o.jpg
I have not drilled the full length of the socket. There is still about 1/8 or so of material. I am trying to save on material and I will drill form the other end after parting. I can now part the socket off.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3671/8806722410_c4fe0cc7c8_o.jpg
Since I am making several of these I am switching to the 9” Workshop. My Workshop uses 6K collets and I can hold up to 5/8” stock. (This is a shop modification). I face of the hex end of the socket.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8541/8796143031_0fc63aab31_o.jpg
And then center drill through.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8124/8806723634_7fb9e5fed9_o.jpg
And then drill through the entire socket with a 13/32 drill.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/8796143173_51507d76d4_o.jpg
Finally I need an internal relief or bevel and I use a countersink.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8546/8796143871_f054e9d99a_o.jpg
Now I move to the mill. This is a Burke #4 with a vertical head. I really prefer it in the horizontal mode but it was partially set up this way. My index head takes 3C collets which normally only go to ½ OD stock. However Jeff Beck sells a nice 9/16 3C where the 9/16 portion is about 1” or more deep. I hold the socket in that, Now I need to hold the endmill in the vertical head. That also takes 3C collets. I have a ½” carbide endmill but its too long to fit. The vertical head uses a lot of room. I find a 7/16 Cobalt endmill with a 1/2 “shank. But it’s left handed. I mill two opposite flats and zero in on the proper width, (0.600).
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/8806724386_64f440e220_o.jpg
Then I mill all the flats.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8261/8796142763_c201037c47_o.jpg
Finally I need to put a bevel on the hex to finish off the looks.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8280/8796143991_70144a4c96_o.jpg
That finished one and I repeated the same process for the second one. Here are the finished sockets.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3807/8806722670_c7159bbfeb_o.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/8806722542_9725e3a93a_o.jpg
Jim B.
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Re: HEAVY 10 ASSEMBLY
armne@sbcglobal.net <armne@...>
Thank You Very Much.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Alec Ryals
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Latheman <latheman2@...> wrote:
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Re: HEAVY 10 ASSEMBLY
armne@sbcglobal.net <armne@...>
--- On Thu, 5/23/13, Latheman wrote:
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South Bend Lathe draw tube length
mattsix@ymail.com
I recently added a south bend 13" lathe to my way to many lathes.A 1926 south bend 22XB second op lathe,1929 80 series south bend with overhead drive and taper,1922 11" with Qcgb,1928 south bend Junior with the enclosed(mail box)drive,7" Flather,rivett 608,rivett 507 amongst others.The 13" was in great condition but i had a specific question.The 13" came with 3 draw tubes,1 was for the 13" but the other 2 are longer.1 has south bend on the handle end the other says royal on it.Does anyone know the length of the draw tubes from the larger south bends(14" and up)?trying to id the other 2 draw tubes and thought they probably went to larger south bends.both are 5c draw tubes.Thanks for any help....Matt
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Re: HEAVY 10 ASSEMBLY
sblatheman
No step. Snug in the bed, loose in the head. Ted
On May 23, 2013, at 3:52 PM, "armne@..." <armne@...> wrote:
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Re: HEAVY 10 ASSEMBLY
Flash Gordon
What pin? I have never disassembled a heavy 10.... but my 9" and my 9" "wide" ...which has a heavy 10 bed does not have a locating pin. The head stock slides on the ways and can be bolted down anywhere.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Ed S
At 03:52 PM 5/23/2013, you wrote:
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