Date   

Re: radius or ball cutter

jaycapsfan
 

Dave,

If it's not to much trouble I would like to get a copy of your CD
also.

Thanks,
Jay Berryman
jaycapsfan@yahoo.com










--- In southbendlathe@y..., "David Audette" <david.audette@v...>
wrote:
Dunno if it's what you're looking for but I have a CD full of plans
for
steam engines & shop tools that has 1 or 2 sets of plans for radius
turning
tools. If you're interested I can make you a copy or root thru it
and try to
find just those plans.

Dave
Worcester, Mass
www.broncosaurus.net


Re: C to B to A Conversion

gorvil
 

Hi Gerald,



The model "A" apron I bought on eBay had excellent half nuts, so the ones I refurbished are not needed. I spent about 6 to 8 hours building the holding fixture described in the HSM article and learning how to braze cast iron. I found that furnace patching cement is useful in building a dam to keep the brass from running out of the area to be repaired. If you send me your old half nuts I will send you a "renewed" set for $25.00 S&H included. I tried them out on my lathe while still in the "B" configuration and the only play I could detect was due to the leadscrew shifting in its bracket.



There is a difference between model "C" halfnuts and those for B or A lathes. The interlock mechanism that prevents the clutch drive from being engaged when the half nuts are engaged and vise versa depends on an adjustment (filing or grinding) of a perjoggin on the side of the bottom half nut. These "C" half nuts would need to be fitted to your "A" or "B" lathe.



Cheers!



Glen Reeser

--- In southbendlathe@y..., strictlystainles@a... wrote:

Would you have an extra pair of half nuts? I could use a pair so I dont have
to repair mine.
Gerald
Iowa


Re: Parts list for SBL Light 10

frankkerfoot
 

Bill
I have a parts list labeled "light 10" dated 6/15/57. It has a page labeled "Light 10 Horizontal Drive Unit" and a page labeled "9 and Light 10 Underneath Drive Unit". If that would help send me a snail mail address. It has other pages as well. I would be happy to copy it all (8 2-sided pages) if that would help.
 
BTW- your post seems to draw a distinction between a "light 10" and a 10K. Aren't they just different names for the same thing (like "heavy 10" and 10L)?
Frank Kerfoot

----- Original Message -----
From: WThanel
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Parts list for SBL Light 10

Hi, anyone out there have parts list for a SBL light ten? I have a SBL
10K parts but it doesn't cover the light 10 belt drive system which is
different from the 10K or at least some 10Ks.  If so I would be
willing to pay copying and shipping fees.

Thanks

Bill T.

WThanel@...



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Re: Stuck Jacobs Chuck: another method

Jon Spear <jdspear@...>
 

I had a similar problem with a chuck on an MT2 shank.  I turned the shank down to 1/2-inch, and cut threads on the shank.  Then I placed a cylindrical tube around the shank, and a plate with a 1/2-inch hole over the shank.  I cranked down on a nut, which pulled the shank out. 
 
This, of course, destroys the shank.
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Fred & Liz Lusen <fl.lusen@...>
To: southbendlathe@... <southbendlathe@...>; ntmac@... <ntmac@...>; list@Ntmac. Org <list@...>; atlas_craftsman@... <atlas_craftsman@...>
Date: Friday, April 26, 2002 3:35 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Stuck Jacobs Chuck

I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on a MT to Jacobs adapter.  I cannot remove it by the usual means.  Since this has crossed everyone's plate at one time or another I am hoping that someone will have an idea.  OTHER THEN BEATING THE #%$$!!?? TO DEATH.
 
Thanks,
 
Fred Lusen


Re: C to B to A Conversion

gorvil
 

Thanks Frank,



I spent about a half hour looking for the pin under a 40 power stereo microscope with a fiber optic light source and I still couldn't find it. I tried magnetizing the shaft and dipping it into a pile of filings to look for anomalies in the flux lines. I tried soaking it in vinegar to see if the pin would etch differently than the collar. I think that the pin healed itself into the collar. I ended up making a new collar and a new pin.



The good news is that I finished the conversion. I now have a 9" x 4 foot A as well as my original 9" x 3 1/2 foot A. I also have a some leftover C parts (apron, leadscew, etc.) that are available to whoever might have a need.



Glen Reeser

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "frankblack67401" <frankblack@h...> wrote:

It's taper pinned on there, it's just a b***h to find. Apparently
they drive in the pin and then file it flush. A good light and a
magnifying glass helps.
Makin chips
Frank
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "gorvil" <Gorvil@a...> wrote:
Hi All,
Well I am half way through the conversion process. I milled a
keyway
in the leadscrew for my 9" x 4' C and changed out the apron to a
clutch type with power cross feed that I got on E-bay. I had the
leadscrew here at work for several weeks waiting for our
machinist
to help me but he could never get around to it. I finally took
matters into my own hands. I made a milling attachment from a
Taig
headstock, a DC motor from a treadmill and a dimmer switch with a
full wave rectifier bridge. The Taig headstock is just the right
height to match the center of the SB when mounted on the cross
slide. Not having a steady rest, I made one out of a 2 x 4
mounted
on the base for the tailstock. I drilled for a tight fit with a
bit
mounted in the lathe chuck. I cross drilled the 2 x 4 for a
setscrew
to keep the leadscrew from turning when I had to rechuck it to
take
another pass with the mill. The chuck was clamped to the lathe
bed
by propping a piece of scrap steel under one of the lathe jaws. I
took the precaution of unplugging the lathe motor. It is just too
much of a conditioned response to grab the F/R switch when you
want
to start cutting.
The next step is to cut down the length of the leadscrew, thread
it
and cut the keyway for the drive gear. Does anyone know how the
sleeve is affixed to the leadscrew? The documentation from SB
says
there should be a pin, but I can't find one.


Re: Stuck Jacobs Chuck

David Audette <david.audette@...>
 

Fred,

I went thru this not too long ago. Basically you've got 2 options. either
check with the online suppliers or a local industrial supply and get a set
of wedges that are specifically designed to force the chuck off of the
arbor. These will only work however if the arbor has a shoulder on it for
the wedge to seat against. The only other option is to drill a hole thru the
soft bottom of the chuck and either use a shop press, arbor press or a good
hammer and force it out with a drift.

I tried all of the above including a 10 ton arbor press on the very same
6A chuck and finally resorted to a 1/2" drift & a 5lb. maul.

Let us know how you make out.

Dave
Worcester, Mass

----- Original Message -----
From: "Fabricated Metal Products" <jwd0anc@yahoo.com>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Stuck Jacobs Chuck


You might consider drilling a 1/4" hole through
the front; then knocking out the arbor with a
punch while properly supporting the back-side of
the chuck. The arbor face usually does not
bottom out in it's socket.



--- Fred & Liz Lusen <fl.lusen@verizon.net>
wrote:
I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on a MT to Jacobs
adapter. I cannot remove it by the usual
means. Since this has crossed everyone's plate
at one time or another I am hoping that someone
will have an idea. OTHER THEN BEATING THE
#%$$!!?? TO DEATH.

Thanks,

Fred Lusen

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/


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Re: Seeking 9" Horizontal Mount Setup Advice

Rich <rd.brown@...>
 

Dennis:

It should be 15 3/4" from the center of the bed rear leg bolt down hole
to the center line of the pivot axle that hinges the jack shaft, pulleys
and motor assembly. Per my SB instructions. I hope this is clear. Note
that the belt tensioning function depends on this dimension.

Rich/W3VFN

the_sophister wrote:


--- In southbendlathe@y..., "the_sophister" <d.m.bolger@a...> wrote:
I have a 9" A HMD for which I am drafting up a bench plan.

Can anyone tell me the factory/proper distance to mount the drive
unit away from the lathe? I don't have a belt yet and I'd like to
establish this measurement before I get one...

Thanks,

Dennis
Sooo... The distance to the horizontal mount is determined by the


Re: Stuck Jacobs Chuck

Dave Kochan
 

Hi, Fred:

I don't know what you tried in the "usual means" category
so I will assume you just tried the wedges.

Penetrating oil often helps here. (e.g. Kroil)

You can try gently heating the chuck body. Don't overdo it!

Drilling a hole at the back of the chuck and using a punch
to drive out the arbor usually works, and doesn't affect the
functionality of the chuck.

Good luck,
Dave

On Fri, 26 Apr 2002, Fred & Liz Lusen wrote:

I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on a MT to Jacobs adapter. I cannot remove it by the usual means. Since this has crossed everyone's plate at one time or another I am hoping that someone will have an idea. OTHER THEN BEATING THE #%$$!!?? TO DEATH.

Thanks,

Fred Lusen


Re: Stuck Jacobs Chuck

Fabricated Metal Products
 

You might consider drilling a 1/4" hole through
the front; then knocking out the arbor with a
punch while properly supporting the back-side of
the chuck. The arbor face usually does not
bottom out in it's socket.



--- Fred & Liz Lusen <fl.lusen@verizon.net>
wrote:
I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on a MT to Jacobs
adapter. I cannot remove it by the usual
means. Since this has crossed everyone's plate
at one time or another I am hoping that someone
will have an idea. OTHER THEN BEATING THE
#%$$!!?? TO DEATH.

Thanks,

Fred Lusen

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more
http://games.yahoo.com/


Stuck Jacobs Chuck

fl.lusen
 

I have a Jacobs 6A chuck on a MT to Jacobs adapter.  I cannot remove it by the usual means.  Since this has crossed everyone's plate at one time or another I am hoping that someone will have an idea.  OTHER THEN BEATING THE #%$$!!?? TO DEATH.
 
Thanks,
 
Fred Lusen


Re: C to B to A Conversion

strictlystainles@...
 

LOL Yep I found that out when I did my conversion form C to A. I will see if
I can find the wore out set.

Gerald
Iowa

ps what is a "perjoggin"


Re: radius or ball cutter

David Audette <david.audette@...>
 

Ed,
 
   I scoured the web for a year finding individul sites with plans and then took apart a hard found copy of Elmer's Engines to get some more. Every time I've wanted or needed a set of plans for something I hung onto them and kept them all in a file. Other times I ran across plans for things that I thought were interesting. I didn't want to be in the position of wanting to make something I'd seen plans for years ago but not being able to find the plans again. Other contributed more and the CD was born. It's strictly a homegrown effort.
 
Dave

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] radius or ball cutter

Dave,
Where did you get the CD that contains all the steam engine plans?
Ed
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Re: Parts list for SBL Light 10

Thomas G Brandl
 

Bill,
I haven't seen a list for a 10K. There is an Army Manual that was
either posted in the archive (but I can't find it) or is somewhere on the
web. If you look through it, it will have a parts diagram for both the 9
and one of the 10K's horizontal drive units (at least as I remember it).
The one shown has the knuckle type (for lack of better description) hinge
to disengage the belt. The 10K I have has a rod with a big knob on its end
the goes through the head stock. There is a smaller lenght of rod just
behind the knob to place in a slot in the headstock of the lathe. Its sort
of a 'T' slot. Don't know if this helps or someone come up with the
Training manual website.
Tom




WThanel <wthanel@aol.com> on 04/26/2002 01:44:05 PM

Please respond to southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com

To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Parts list for SBL Light 10


Hi, anyone out there have parts list for a SBL light ten? I have a SBL
10K parts but it doesn't cover the light 10 belt drive system which is
different from the 10K or at least some 10Ks. If so I would be
willing to pay copying and shipping fees.

Thanks

Bill T.

WThanel@aol.com



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Gear Cover

frankblack67401 <frankblack@...>
 

Hi all, I'm heading out this weekend to do some casting and one of
the items I'm trying is the gear cover that mounts to the quadrant
on the 9". I've put up a (poor) picture of it in the photos
section. I can cast up some extras if anyone is interested. It
will be cast from an original so it wiil be a tad undersize, but
should be useable.

Makin Chips

Frank


Re: C to B to A Conversion

strictlystainles@...
 

Would you have an extra pair of half nuts? I could use a pair so I dont have
to repair mine.

Gerald
Iowa


Parts list for SBL Light 10

William Thanel
 

Hi, anyone out there have parts list for a SBL light ten? I have a SBL
10K parts but it doesn't cover the light 10 belt drive system which is
different from the 10K or at least some 10Ks. If so I would be
willing to pay copying and shipping fees.

Thanks

Bill T.

WThanel@aol.com


Re: radius or ball cutter

William Ruehl <wruehl@...>
 

Here is a link that I made mine from. I deviated somewhat to suit the
material I had in the junk box at the time but it works very well.
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/baltool/balltool.html

I'm posting some photos of mine in the photo section of our group under the
folder "Ball Cutter"

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Audette" <david.audette@verizon.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] radius or ball cutter


Dunno if it's what you're looking for but I have a CD full of plans for
steam engines & shop tools that has 1 or 2 sets of plans for radius
turning
tools. If you're interested I can make you a copy or root thru it and try
to
find just those plans.

Dave
Worcester, Mass
www.broncosaurus.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "jaxinbc" <jackie.blake@telus.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 12:09 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] radius or ball cutter


Any chance one of you fellows would have a radius cutter that you
don't use and would sell, that would fit my 9"SBL? Or have any idea
for plans or where I could buy one. Thanks



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Re: Seeking 9" Horizontal Mount Setup Advice

Paul R. Hvidston <paulh@...>
 

I put a page from SBL in the Photos section that shows pretty much what
you're asking for, although there's no actual measurement for the mounting
holes. That can be inferred.

See "SB 9 InchInfo>Felt Care and Maintenance" in the Photos section.

Regards,

Paul R. Hvidston, N6MGN
ACKSYS Engineering
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "the_sophister" <d.m.bolger@att.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 9:22 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Seeking 9" Horizontal Mount Setup Advice


--- In southbendlathe@y..., "the_sophister" <d.m.bolger@a...> wrote:
I have a 9" A HMD for which I am drafting up a bench plan.

Can anyone tell me the factory/proper distance to mount the drive
unit away from the lathe? I don't have a belt yet and I'd like to
establish this measurement before I get one...

Thanks,

Dennis

Sooo... The distance to the horizontal mount is determined by the
belt length and the belt length is determined by the distance between
the cone pulleys??? Which comes first the chicken or the egg?

Could this information be in the South Bend Installation & Setup
guide? Does anyone have a copy handy? I'd appreciate any advice-
I'd like to stick to factory specs as much as possible...


Re: radius or ball cutter

David Audette <david.audette@...>
 

Paul,

I'm working on that but for the moment I'm just burning copies for
people who want them. the CD is 608MB about half of which is steam engines
( I scanned and included the entire Elmer's Engines book as well, there's
about 100 steam engine plans there ) and the remainder are plans for shop
tools & accessories.

Dave

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul R. Hvidston" <paulh@uia.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] radius or ball cutter


Dave,

Any chance of putting the CD image up on the net in whole or in segments?
Don't know what kind of space and bandwidth you have available, but just a
thought.

Regards,

Paul R. Hvidston, N6MGN
ACKSYS Engineering
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Audette" <david.audette@verizon.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] radius or ball cutter


Dunno if it's what you're looking for but I have a CD full of plans for
steam engines & shop tools that has 1 or 2 sets of plans for radius
turning
tools. If you're interested I can make you a copy or root thru it and
try
to
find just those plans.

Dave
Worcester, Mass
www.broncosaurus.net



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10K collet lever

Thomas G Brandl
 

There is a 10K collet lever on e-bay. Try South Bend lathe and on the third
page. Also, a Heavy 10 listed for $2500 to compare values.
Tom

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