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Re: South Bend lathe
airydisc2004 <airydisc2004@...>
Peter
I attached a couple of photos to my last message but they don't seem to have been stored. I went to the photos and file section, but again, no links to enable posting files or photos (even though on the Help link, it says there are links)! If you send me your email address I will forward on the two images I have. Best regards AD2004 --- In southbendlathe@..., "Peter Sanders" <psanders@...> wrote: in the tools.UK has had one left to her, and wants to know a little about it. Myford. somewhere.Do they have a general value.YES!I am told it is in great condition and most of the tools unused.Even MORE value.Sorry to be so vague, but need to start asking questions Any help/directions to useful websites/advice gratefully received.Yes, it would be of assitance to any potential buyer
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Re: South Bend lathe
Chris Garvey <airydisc2004@...>
Hi Peter. I have attached a couple of photos. Regards AD2004 Peter Sanders wrote: Hi
Yahoo! Answers - Got a question? Someone out there knows the answer. Try it now.
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Re: 5C collets w/ L00 heavy 10
BOB WRIGHT
I came up with 1957 for the year...Bob
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--- In southbendlathe@..., tvoght@... wrote:
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Re: 5C collets w/ L00 heavy 10
fred eisner
hi guys
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i have L-00 nose protectors $50 ea + shipping contact me at imsteamer21@... for pics and info thanks fred
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Re: What model is my lathe?
Steve Wells
Jack, I may have spoken to soon, now it could be a
1948.
I don't have enough numbers in my serial number
file to say for
sure. Why don't you call Leblond and find out? They
will give you the line card
information over the phone or by e-mail. Then I
would have one more confirmed
number in my file.
Steve
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Re: South Bend lathe
Peter Sanders <psanders@...>
Hi
On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 09:16:56 +0800, airydisc2004 <airydisc2004@...> wrote: Hi. I know nothing about South Bend lathes but a friend of mine in theOoooh, I wish that was ME :D Are these lathes sought after?YES! Are they useful for today's small businesses or hobbyists?YES! Absolutely! Depending on the model could be even better than a Myford. Do they have a general value.YES! I am told it is in great condition and most of the tools unused.Even MORE value. Sorry to be so vague, but need to start asking questions somewhere.Yes, it would be of assitance to any potential buyer -- Kind Regards Peter Sanders
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Re: 5C collets w/ L00 heavy 10
Dennis Turk <dennis.turk2@...>
Hi Tim
The LOO used a nose piece similar to the D1-4 and
the threaded 2 14 - 8. If you can give a fairly close dimension of the
very outside diameter of the taper on the spindle nose I will see if it
matches up with a couple of nose pieces I have on the shelf. I am not sure
what these go to as I have had them for years now. The taper will be
correct but its the outside registration diameter what we need. Also
If can call Royal Products they still sell nose pieces for any lathe and they
will have recorded what nose piece your lathe will need. They make about
the best most accurate nose piece I have ever used. They guarantee or at
least use to .0002 concentricity with the outside taper to collet taper.
Most of the time I found them to be .0001 or less. The L series nose ring
may be a problem to find. You may have to make an approximate item.
You mostly wont something to keep the locking thread ring from banging around
when you using collets. Other than that its not all that important on a L
nose to have one. You can always remove the nose piece with a knock out
bar from the rear of the lathe. This is what you have to do on any D
series spindle and is really recommended for even threaded nose spindles as the
thread protector ring is just that something to keep idiots from running
the tool into the spindle thread. Hey seen it happen then when you have
been around lathes for 45 years you see a lot of things you would rather not
see.
If you can find an old battered chuck back plate
you can as I did machine most of it away and make a nose ring from that as it
will have the thread for the locking ring.
Turk
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Re: What model is my lathe?
Jack Dinan <jdinan@...>
Steve: I Googled Leblond and found on their site an information form. I'll begin by filling that out. Thanks for the lead.
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I'll let you know the results. Jack
Jack, I may have spoken to soon, now it could be a 1948.
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Re: What model is my lathe?
Steve Wells
The Y is a 3 foot bed, and back to the 8, I think
that was a revision change number.
Steve
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Re: What model is my lathe?
Steve Wells
Jack,
Your lathe is a 1947, and yes a catalog model
444, would have the
code designation NAR in the serial number, that
would be a 9" model A
6 speed horizontal motor drive(HMD) bench
lathe.
I'm not sure about the 8 on the end on the number
of a 9" , on the 10" tool room lathe
the 8 in the model number Designates a toolroom
lathe, such as CL-8-xxx-x-x.
Steve
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Re: What model is my lathe?
Jack Dinan <jdinan@...>
Steve: Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply. The year 1947 jibes with the conversation I had with the previous owner as I was inspecting the lathe. He was an older gentleman who told me he purchased it new in 1948.
So I am the second owner. How great is that!Jack Jack,
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South Bend lathe
airydisc2004 <airydisc2004@...>
Hi. I know nothing about South Bend lathes but a friend of mine in the
UK has had one left to her, and wants to know a little about it. I believe it is a South Bend 10. There are also boxes of various tools. Are these lathes sought after? Are they useful for today's small businesses or hobbyists? Do they have a general value. I am told it is in great condition and most of the tools unused. Sorry to be so vague, but need to start asking questions somewhere. Any help/directions to useful websites/advice gratefully received. I have a couple of images of the lathe if that will help. Regards AD2004
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What model is my lathe?
John Dinan <jdinan@...>
SN: 8611NAR8
I'm sure it is buried in this number, but please help me determine it. From the photos in the catalog that came with it, it looks to me as though it might be either a Toolroom or a Model A. The previous owner has written 444-Y on the front page of the Attachments catalog. Is this significant? Thanks, Jack
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Re: 1936 9" SB 4.5' bed SN# 65872
waynegordner
Thanks Denny for the information. Wayne
Yep she's a 415 not a C model as it look like it was built in mid 1936. A B and C models came out in 1939 and had quite a few changes made compared to the earlier catalog 415 lathe. Turk
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5C collets w/ L00 heavy 10
Tim Voght
Hi,
I've recently acquired a Heavy 10 (Cat. #CLK187A, S.N. 10036RKK14). I have dozens of questions, but let me start with this: The lathe has a L00 spindle. What does it take to use 5C collets with the lathe. I have seen (on ebay) adapters for threaded spindles. (e.g. ebay item #120110552252) These seem to consist of an adapter sleeve, a 'nose protector' which threads onto the spindle, and a drawtube. I am assuming the same sleeve might be used with the L00, but the nose protector is clearly out. I can imagine what might be required, but find very little mention in all my searching. Do I desire something that is unobtainable? --Tim
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Re: v-belt conversion
Timothy Elkins <timothyelkins@...>
Thanks for the info, I will give the serpentine belt a try.
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"Jim B." wrote:
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Re: Model C Half Nuts
Jim B. <btdtrfandmw@...>
Thanks Dennis, I was not aware of this. I do have a
spare set of 405 half nuts AND the studs that go with them.
I have run into the bump problem. You will remember
that I sold you the last spare set of half nuts I had. They had come from a 405
that you had purchased but without the nuts. When I went to install these on my
405, prior to selling them to you, They would not fit. The bump was in the way.
Jim B. From: southbendlathe@... [mailto:southbendlathe@...] On Behalf Of Dennis Turk Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:21 PM To: southbendlathe@... Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Re: Model C Half Nuts
Well hellooooooooooooooo
Hey good to hear from you. No I have not
started on the Wade 8 A yet as I am still honing my restoration skills on these
lowly SB lathes.:-)))
In fact Rick I did a three day round trip by
myself to Denver last year to pick up another one that was not complete and had
been damaged. Sold the thread dial and tail stock and covered the original
cost. HE HE the company picked up my travel expenses so was a cheap
trip.
When we left you there in Santa Anna we had planned
on staying the night there but after what we saw there we got the hell
out. I did not stop driving till we were a 100 miles North of LA.
God what a terrible place Santa Anna is. Then when you come from the
Willamette valley here in Oregon almost any other place is
terrible."-)
As to the half nuts you ask about I hope my
explanation of what the little bump on the bottom of the lower nut was
clear. I have set up two sets of brand new nuts and I had to grind this
little projection so the nuts would not drag on the lead screw when they were
open. I have actually had to do this on a couple of other lathe when I was
mixing and matching my best parts on an apron assembly. Seams there was a
lot of difference in apron and nut castings.
One other thing I ran into and Jim B needs to know
this. The special studs that hold the half nuts on a 405 and on the
prototype 415 I have are longer than all the later lathes I have worked
with. These original studs or special bolts are about 1/4 inch longer than
standard workshop models. Just something for you guys to put back in the
memoir bank for future reference. The apron casting is just a little
thicker in the half nut area on a 405 lathe.
Turk
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Re: Model C Half Nuts
Dennis Turk <dennis.turk2@...>
Well helloooooooooooooooooo Rick
Hey good to hear from you. No I have not
started on the Wade 8 A yet as I am still honing my restoration skills on these
lowly SB lathes.:-)))
In fact Rick I did a three day round trip by
myself to Denver last year to pick up another one that was not complete and had
been damaged. Sold the thread dial and tail stock and covered the original
cost. HE HE the company picked up my travel expenses so was a cheap
trip.
When we left you there in Santa Anna we had planned
on staying the night there but after what we saw there we got the hell
out. I did not stop driving till we were a 100 miles North of LA.
God what a terrible place Santa Anna is. Then when you come from the
Willamette valley here in Oregon almost any other place is
terrible."-))))
As to the half nuts you ask about I hope my
explanation of what the little bump on the bottom of the lower nut was
clear. I have set up two sets of brand new nuts and I had to grind this
little projection so the nuts would not drag on the lead screw when they were
open. I have actually had to do this on a couple of other lathe when I was
mixing and matching my best parts on an apron assembly. Seams there was a
lot of difference in apron and nut castings.
One other thing I ran into and Jim B needs to know
this. The special studs that hold the half nuts on a 405 and on the
prototype 415 I have are longer than all the later lathes I have worked
with. These original studs or special bolts are about 1/4 inch longer than
standard workshop models. Just something for you guys to put back in the
memoir bank for future reference. The apron casting is just a little
thicker in the half nut area on a 405 lathe.
Turk
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Re: Model C Half Nuts
tuffree <tuffree@...>
--- In southbendlathe@..., "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote: 405 will not as they are left hand threads were as yours are right hand. is a little lump on the bottom nut that is a stop when the nuts are open. Some times I have had to grind this a little so the half nuts when open do not drag on the lead screw. Think this is normal fitting requirements as I have always had to do this when the nuts were brand new. ******************************************************************** Thanks Dennis. I didn't know the 405 had a LH screw. BTW, you may remember me, I met you in Santa Ana, Ca. (2005?) when you picked up the Wade 8A. Have you restored it yet? Thanks again for the quart of South Bend paint you brought with you. Rick
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stiff operation from NOS 3 jaw chuck....
AT N.A.M.E.S. this week I picked up a South Bend New-Old-Stock 3-Jaw
chuck....universal self centering type. Removed the jaws and cleaned off the protective Cosmolene like material from all external surfaces but find the chuck is still extremely stiff to operate. Is it possible I need to remove the back and completely disassemble the chuck to clean out something inside, or are these factory chuck very stiff when new?
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