Date   

Re: Collet closer disassembly proceedure

Jeff Beck
 

That is correct. The 10k will take a 6K collet directly in the
spindle with no adapter.
Jeff
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "imarelicz28"
<imarelicz28@...> wrote:

John, I can answer your question about "wasn't there a 10" lathe
that takes collets, that does not require a sleeve"? The answer
is "yes", because I have one of them. I had looked at dwgings and
pic's of collet closers, and just assumed that the spindle must
contain a separate sleeve that was removable. Now that I've got
the
inside of my spindle cleaned out, I can say for certain, that there
is no sleeve. The spindle incorporates a taper "and" the proper
bevel and tit that locates the collets. Here's a link to Pic I
took
of it. The lathe is a 10K. According to the date / sn matrix, it
was built in 72. Do you know what size taper is in the spindle?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v224/imarelic/south%20bend%
20lathe/?action=view&current=Colletcloser2001.jpg

Chris and John, thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Bob


Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim B. <eeengineer@...>
 

Yes the bottom picture.
But that's my lathe. I sent that picture to Tony.
 

Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex.... It takes a touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)

 


From: southbendlathe@... [mailto:southbendlathe@...] On Behalf Of CAL
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 8:55 PM
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim are these the holes you are talking about? http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/page23.html

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim B.
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Yes I ran the 10K spindle in the old 405 headstock and every thing fitted.
In fact the "new" head stock you see is running the 405 cone pulley and bull
gear. I changed the thrust washer over to the newer ball bearing one even
before I switched the spindle. I have also added the roller bearing thrust
washer modification. That gets tight with the old spindle.

BTW now that I think of it there is another difference. The thrust lock nut
on my 405 is different than the newer ones. The new ones are split and have
screw that pinches them together. The 405 was not split and had a grub screw
that would bear down on the threads with a tendency to bugger them up.

I am not sure where/when the holes on the cross came from. Perhaps they are
"aftermarket" after all I have only had the lathe 28 years of its 73 year
life.

I made a second set of gibb lock screw nuts for a friend and then found out
that they will not fit his newer lathe. If you send me your address on the
back wire I will drop them in an envelop.

Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex.... It takes a
touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)

-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of boergertt
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 4:23 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim,

Nice looking lathe. Also, nice looking gib screw lock nuts. Those screws
are always coming loose on mine. Did I understand that you ran a 10K
spindle in your old top-oil headstock? Did it fit with the the 405 cone
pulley, thrust washer, etc? I have been considering this to get the more
standard 1 1/2 X 8 spindle threads.

I read the discussion concerning the holes in the 405 cross slide.
Evidently there were variations even in the short-lived 405. Not only does
my 405 have no holes on the cross slide extension, it has no holes where the
compound rotates.

Here is picture of my cross slide:
http://home.comcast.net/~boergertt/sb405/405-24.jpg

Tom

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <eeengineer@...>
wrote:
>
> OK by popular demand the pictures are posted at
>
http://finance.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/photos/brows
e/
c73a?

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Re: Collet closer disassembly proceedure

imarelicz28 <imarelicz28@...>
 

John, I can answer your question about "wasn't there a 10" lathe
that takes collets, that does not require a sleeve"? The answer
is "yes", because I have one of them. I had looked at dwgings and
pic's of collet closers, and just assumed that the spindle must
contain a separate sleeve that was removable. Now that I've got the
inside of my spindle cleaned out, I can say for certain, that there
is no sleeve. The spindle incorporates a taper "and" the proper
bevel and tit that locates the collets. Here's a link to Pic I took
of it. The lathe is a 10K. According to the date / sn matrix, it
was built in 72. Do you know what size taper is in the spindle?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v224/imarelic/south%20bend%
20lathe/?action=view&current=Colletcloser2001.jpg

Chris and John, thanks for your comments and suggestions.

Bob

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "JohnW" <John.Walker@...>
wrote:

Bob
I think Chris' point was that the thread protector is used to
remove
the standard collet sleeve. The standard sleeve has a large
flange
on the outboard end, as you screw off the thread protector it
pushes
against the flange and forces the collet sleeve out.

You may have a home made sleeve that doesn't have a flange (like
mine).

Or a dumb question. Isn't there one of the 10" lathes that takes
a
collet without requiring a sleeve? If so is there a sleeve in
place
or is that just the standard taper for the 10K?

JohnW


Re: Odd 405 parts?

CAL <cal@...>
 

Jim are these the holes you are talking about? http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend9-inch/page23.html

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim B.
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 1:40 PM
Subject: RE: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Yes I ran the 10K spindle in the old 405 headstock and every thing fitted.
In fact the "new" head stock you see is running the 405 cone pulley and bull
gear. I changed the thrust washer over to the newer ball bearing one even
before I switched the spindle. I have also added the roller bearing thrust
washer modification. That gets tight with the old spindle.

BTW now that I think of it there is another difference. The thrust lock nut
on my 405 is different than the newer ones. The new ones are split and have
screw that pinches them together. The 405 was not split and had a grub screw
that would bear down on the threads with a tendency to bugger them up.

I am not sure where/when the holes on the cross came from. Perhaps they are
"aftermarket" after all I have only had the lathe 28 years of its 73 year
life.

I made a second set of gibb lock screw nuts for a friend and then found out
that they will not fit his newer lathe. If you send me your address on the
back wire I will drop them in an envelop.

Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex.... It takes a
touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)

-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of boergertt
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 4:23 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim,

Nice looking lathe. Also, nice looking gib screw lock nuts. Those screws
are always coming loose on mine. Did I understand that you ran a 10K
spindle in your old top-oil headstock? Did it fit with the the 405 cone
pulley, thrust washer, etc? I have been considering this to get the more
standard 1 1/2 X 8 spindle threads.

I read the discussion concerning the holes in the 405 cross slide.
Evidently there were variations even in the short-lived 405. Not only does
my 405 have no holes on the cross slide extension, it has no holes where the
compound rotates.

Here is picture of my cross slide:
http://home.comcast.net/~boergertt/sb405/405-24.jpg

Tom

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." ...>
wrote:
>
> OK by popular demand the pictures are posted at
>
http://finance.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/photos/brows
e/
c73a?

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Skinner Chuck

Johnny Kleso <rarebear@...>
 

Hello,
Can any one tell me what lathe this chuck fits?

It has 1 ¾"-6 mounting thread...

http://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/chuck/1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/chuck/2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/chuck/3.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/chuck/4.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~stanleyplanes/chuck/5.jpg


Also what it maybe worth?

Thanks Very Much,
Johnny Kleso AKA rarebear
www.REXMILL.com


Re: Odd 405 parts?

Tom Boergert
 

Ha! You're right about the spindle lock nut on the 405. I had to go
out to the garage for a look and the nut my 405 is solid with a
locking screw and the one on my 9A is split. I've taken them both
apart and never noticed.

I'll be happy to have the lock nuts and will send you me address
shortly.

Tom


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <eeengineer@...>
wrote:

Yes I ran the 10K spindle in the old 405 headstock and every
thing fitted.
In fact the "new" head stock you see is running the 405 cone
pulley and bull
gear. I changed the thrust washer over to the newer ball bearing
one even
before I switched the spindle. I have also added the roller
bearing thrust
washer modification. That gets tight with the old spindle.

BTW now that I think of it there is another difference. The thrust
lock nut
on my 405 is different than the newer ones. The new ones are split
and have
screw that pinches them together. The 405 was not split and had a
grub screw
that would bear down on the threads with a tendency to bugger them
up.

I am not sure where/when the holes on the cross came from. Perhaps
they are
"aftermarket" after all I have only had the lathe 28 years of its
73 year
life.

I made a second set of gibb lock screw nuts for a friend and then
found out
that they will not fit his newer lathe. If you send me your
address on the
back wire I will drop them in an envelop.





Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex....
It takes a
touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite
direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)


-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of boergertt
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 4:23 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim,

Nice looking lathe. Also, nice looking gib screw lock nuts.
Those screws
are always coming loose on mine. Did I understand that you ran a
10K
spindle in your old top-oil headstock? Did it fit with the the
405 cone
pulley, thrust washer, etc? I have been considering this to get
the more
standard 1 1/2 X 8 spindle threads.

I read the discussion concerning the holes in the 405 cross
slide.
Evidently there were variations even in the short-lived 405. Not
only does
my 405 have no holes on the cross slide extension, it has no holes
where the
compound rotates.

Here is picture of my cross slide:
http://home.comcast.net/~boergertt/sb405/405-24.jpg

Tom

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <eeengineer@>
wrote:

OK by popular demand the pictures are posted at
http://finance.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/photos/brows
e/
c73a?




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~-->
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-~->

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Files area
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Re: Collet closer disassembly proceedure

ChristopherS
 

I must have misunderstood what kind of collets & sleeve you have. My thread protector can't be unscrewed without my 5C sleeve running interference. That's how I remove my sleeve. My tapper is clean though. So it doesn't take much torque.
 
Chris 

imarelicz28 wrote:

Chris, yes I have the thread protector removed. I just haven't had
time to do any more with it. I'll try tapping on the back of the
sleeve this weekend.

Thanks

Bob

- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Chris Strazzeri .>
wrote:
>
> Have you tried to remove it by unscrewing the thread protector
collar with a spanner wrench?
>
> Chris
>
>
>



Also in the folder are my little nuts!!!!!!!

ChristopherS
 

Jim.
 
I didn't want to hijack your thread so I'm posting this separately.
 
When I reached that part of your post I chuckled a little. I proceeded to read the rest of the post but I kept thinking about that sentence as I read. It soon became impossible to continue reading because I was laughing so damn hard that my eyes began to tear! All I can say is "It beats having them in a vice!
 
Oh! Nice pix. The spindle looks so much larger than a 1-1/2". And yes, your little nuts look great on the CS! :-)
 
Chris


Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim B. <eeengineer@...>
 

Yes I ran the 10K spindle in the old 405 headstock and every thing fitted.
In fact the "new" head stock you see is running the 405 cone pulley and bull
gear. I changed the thrust washer over to the newer ball bearing one even
before I switched the spindle. I have also added the roller bearing thrust
washer modification. That gets tight with the old spindle.

BTW now that I think of it there is another difference. The thrust lock nut
on my 405 is different than the newer ones. The new ones are split and have
screw that pinches them together. The 405 was not split and had a grub screw
that would bear down on the threads with a tendency to bugger them up.

I am not sure where/when the holes on the cross came from. Perhaps they are
"aftermarket" after all I have only had the lathe 28 years of its 73 year
life.

I made a second set of gibb lock screw nuts for a friend and then found out
that they will not fit his newer lathe. If you send me your address on the
back wire I will drop them in an envelop.





Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex.... It takes a
touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)

-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of boergertt
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 4:23 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim,

Nice looking lathe. Also, nice looking gib screw lock nuts. Those screws
are always coming loose on mine. Did I understand that you ran a 10K
spindle in your old top-oil headstock? Did it fit with the the 405 cone
pulley, thrust washer, etc? I have been considering this to get the more
standard 1 1/2 X 8 spindle threads.

I read the discussion concerning the holes in the 405 cross slide.
Evidently there were variations even in the short-lived 405. Not only does
my 405 have no holes on the cross slide extension, it has no holes where the
compound rotates.

Here is picture of my cross slide:
http://home.comcast.net/~boergertt/sb405/405-24.jpg

Tom

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <eeengineer@...>
wrote:

OK by popular demand the pictures are posted at
http://finance.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/photos/brows
e/
c73a?




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FAQ:
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Re: Cross slide adjustment full gib

ALAN WHEATLEY
 

Dennis
 
My Heavy 10 had this "adjustment" problem with its cross slide, and unequal wear was the cause.
 
I was nervous of touching the faces of the vee with a scraper because I didn't have a proper prismatic straight edge for testing them, and the taper gib strips on my machine (on yours too?) don't allow any cheating when trying to get proper adjustment.  I measured the extent of wear between cross slide and saddle by using a bit of feeler strip ground into a slow taper on a sharpening oilstone, and pushing the strip horizontally into the gap and then measuring the thickness of the strip at the point where it stopped.  I found that the amount of wear was surprisingly limited (I can't remember any figures).  After a lot agonising, I started to believe that scraping a little iron off the horizontal mating faces of the saddle's top surface and the under side of the cross slide was within my ability.
 
So I tried to do just that -- v e r y   c a r e f u l l y -- and found it not only taught me some useful skill in using a scraper, but it also made a real improvement to the free and proper running of the cross slide.  I worked in slow stages, taking a little from the end sections of all eight sliding surfaces (but not the vees), frequently re-blueing and testing the surfaces to ensure that all surfaces still worked together and didn't rock. Eventually, I had "eased" less than three inches of iron at each end of slides. For a guide to any future scraping work, I preserved a reference point by not touching the central areas of the slides.
 
This partial scraping made a lot of improvement in the smooth and even running of the cross slide.  And after I had started to feel I had achieved all I was likely to do without causing damage I couldn't fix, I plucked up courage to ease the ends of the vees.  The amount of wear on the vees was something I couldn't measure.  But when I tackled the ends of them, taking an equal, very small, unknown amount from each end of the four vee surfaces, I found the amount of vee wear was a lot less than the wear on the horizontal surfaces (because the vees are less exposed to dirt?), so less scraping was needed there.  And I was really relieved about that !
 
Today, the cross slide doesn't travel perfectly from end to end, but it is a whole lot better than it used to be, and I can do better work, and work more easily.  Some day I'll buy the measuring tools needed to assess what's going on at the sliding faces, and then I'll finish the job properly.
 
I'm not fooling myself and I don't want to try fooling you.  My treatment isn't what a real machine tool re-builder would deliver, but I'm pretty sure I haven't lost any of the lathe's remaining accuracy, and I can now make better use of what the lathe still has -- I couldn't do that if I still had a sloppy cross slide.
 
Doing things yourself won't be the same as a professional rebuild, but you can improve things, with only a little risk. Work carefully and without hurry, and you'll be blessed with the safety factor inherent in scraping.  If something starts to go wrong it's going to happen very slowly because you can only take off the metal very slowly, probably something like a tenth of of a thou at a time. At that rate it's not difficult to keep a constant watch on what's happening, and to ensure you don't overshoot.
 
Alan

----- Original Message ----
From: dconway00
To: southbendlathe@...
Sent: Friday, 23 February, 2007 3:31:08 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Cross slide adjustment full gib

Hi All

I have recently changed my Heavy 10 cross slide to a T-slotted cross
slide which uses a full length gib adjusted with individual set screws
(9 of them). As yet I have not been able to achieve a satisfactory
adjust where the "feel' of the cross slide is the same over the full
travel of the cross slide - when set where the cross slide moves
smoothly to the full range of travel especially at the full length
toward the operator the slide appears to have some free play where it
can be pushed in and out a bit. When tightened from this adjustment it
cranks very hard toward the last 1.5 inches of inboard travel.

Taking a look at the carriage dovetail seems to show some areas where
the dovetail narrows at the outboard end. What this means to me is
that when far end of the slide is moved inboard the gib will tighten
more as the dovetail widens - make sense??

Could someone tell me what tolerance to expect in the carriage
dovetail - can/should it be machine/scraped so all sides are parallel?
Any recommendations as to where to have this done?

regards

Dennis



Re: Odd 405 parts?

Tom Boergert
 

Jim,

Nice looking lathe. Also, nice looking gib screw lock nuts. Those
screws are always coming loose on mine. Did I understand that you
ran a 10K spindle in your old top-oil headstock? Did it fit with
the the 405 cone pulley, thrust washer, etc? I have been
considering this to get the more standard 1 1/2 X 8 spindle threads.

I read the discussion concerning the holes in the 405 cross slide.
Evidently there were variations even in the short-lived 405. Not
only does my 405 have no holes on the cross slide extension, it has
no holes where the compound rotates.

Here is picture of my cross slide:
http://home.comcast.net/~boergertt/sb405/405-24.jpg

Tom

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Jim B." <eeengineer@...>
wrote:

OK by popular demand the pictures are posted at
http://finance.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/photos/brows
e/
c73a?


Old Lathe

cuda_in_pa <cuda71@...>
 

Hi again--I was going to say Maybe I could Post a few Pictures of this
and that would help??


The age of my South bend Lathe???

cuda_in_pa <cuda71@...>
 

Hi--I Just Joined the Group and My first unknown is actually how Old
of a Lathe I have?? Mine Has the Drive//Clutch Bar ABOVE the Lathe. I
actually bolted it to the wall to give it stability but Ive never seen
another Lathe like this. All the Ones Ive seen have the drive down on
the same plain as the lathe itself--anyone know?? thanks--my email is
cuda71@verizon.net


Back gear eccentric shaft removal

hardtoguess03 <hardtoguess03@...>
 

On my South Bend 13, I am trying to remove the eccentric shaft that
engages the quill gears. The parts diagram seems to indicate a taper
pin holds the lever to shaft. I see a hole on the bottom of the lever
which appears to hold a pin, but there's no corresponding hole on the
opposite side to tap through. I thought it might be a set screw and
did my best to clean it out to see, but I can't believe it's a set
screw right now.

Has anyone removed this before and if so, how did you do it?

Thanks,
Eric


Re: Cross slide adjustment full gib

Clive Foster
 

Dennis

We have been round the "better gib operation" loop fairly recently.
Do a search or contact me off line and I'll send you a write up of
combined advice given to me by various high quality workers which
I have found to be good in practice.

Summarising things from the checking new components viewpoint
rather than repair old:-

1) The dovetails, both male and female, need to be parallel
to close limits and the gib strip should almost completely fill the
gap. Barely enough clearance to slide it in is best.

2) The gib needs to seat firmly at the top of the female dovetail
along its full length.

3) The gib needs to be straight and of good finish. Although
Chinee stuff is notorious for being poor I have seen warped
or distorted gibs from normally reliable sources. Presumably
hidden material imperfections have been exposed by machining
and have surfaced between inspection and delivery.

4) The gib screw holes and corresponding recesses in the gib
need to be accurately aligned so that each recess is central on
its screw and be positioned on a common centre line running
pretty much down the middle of the gib. Some references
advise either up a bit or down a bit relative to the centre works
better but I'm darned if I can remember which.

5) Ball ended adjusting screws working in conical holes are
much better than the usual point in a dimple. From the earlier
thread I believe Macmaster (check, I'm on the wrong side of the
pond to know) can supply ball ended hex socket screws,
the conical seat is easily formed using a common slocombe centre
drill. If you care to make a suitable sketch and contemplate the
geometry it will be clear that the ball ended screw in conical
hole acts to push the top of the gib into the top of the female
dovetail with obvious advantages for stability and rigidity.

6) This is a very long and relatively thin gib which should be
doweled in place to stop it trying to shuffle back and forth
when the slide direction of movement changes.

When working with gibs its important to remember that the
adjustment tolerances are basically half the thickness of the oil
film on the mutually sliding surfaces. Hence careful work is
needed to get best results. Errors can only be coped with by
opening up clearances until things rattle past the tight spot(s).
A most unsatisfactory state of affairs.

Fortunately there is nothing terribly difficult about getting
excellent results, a bit of care and a bit of thought can do
wonders from even the most unpromising starting point.

Concerning your apparent narrowing of the dovetails its best
to start by making accurate measurements of the width using
rollers. To my eye sub thou varaitions are quite visible.
Unless measurements show things to be very bad I'd concentrate
on getting the gib fitted and working beyond reproach on the
known good part of the slides then push back and forth by
hand to feel where the slide thinks things are wrong.
Then decide whether its actually OK or if it needs attention
with either a scraper or a triangualr file modified to have two
safe edges.

I once applied the full monty gib improvement process to a
large machine vice whose dovetail ways looked seriously taper.
Bad enough that I didn't bother to measure how badly out.
The intention was to use a nicecly fitted gib as a guide to
sorting the dovetails but, in practice, things worked just
fine as was. Well up to good lathe slide standards.

HTH.

Clive


Hi All

I have recently changed my Heavy 10 cross slide to a T-slotted cross
slide which uses a full length gib adjusted with individual set screws
(9 of them). As yet I have not been able to achieve a satisfactory
adjust where the "feel' of the cross slide is the same over the full
travel of the cross slide - when set where the cross slide moves
smoothly to the full range of travel especially at the full length
toward the operator the slide appears to have some free play where it
can be pushed in and out a bit. When tightened from this adjustment it
cranks very hard toward the last 1.5 inches of inboard travel.

Taking a look at the carriage dovetail seems to show some areas where
the dovetail narrows at the outboard end. What this means to me is
that when far end of the slide is moved inboard the gib will tighten
more as the dovetail widens - make sense??

Could someone tell me what tolerance to expect in the carriage
dovetail - can/should it be machine/scraped so all sides are parallel?
Any recommendations as to where to have this done?

regards

Dennis


Re: Odd 405 parts?

CAL <cal@...>
 

Den. You reguested dates and numbers. Just got off the phone with Marty at Leblond. S# 66921 cat# 415 shipped to Western Auto store, their dist. in North Dakota July 15 1936. New owner H. L. Miller 
Hope this helps
Cal 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

405 owners take a look and see if any of your lathes match these.

I have just uploaded four picture on my flicker photo site showing this
odd 405 saddle and cross slide.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45888076@N00/?saved=1

Turk


Re: Collet closer disassembly proceedure

JohnW <John.Walker@...>
 

Bob
I think Chris' point was that the thread protector is used to remove
the standard collet sleeve. The standard sleeve has a large flange
on the outboard end, as you screw off the thread protector it pushes
against the flange and forces the collet sleeve out.

You may have a home made sleeve that doesn't have a flange (like
mine).

Or a dumb question. Isn't there one of the 10" lathes that takes a
collet without requiring a sleeve? If so is there a sleeve in place
or is that just the standard taper for the 10K?

JohnW

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "imarelicz28"
<imarelicz28@...> wrote:

Chris, yes I have the thread protector removed. I just haven't
had
time to do any more with it. I'll try tapping on the back of the
sleeve this weekend.

Thanks

Bob

- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Chris Strazzeri <cjstrazz@>
wrote:

Have you tried to remove it by unscrewing the thread protector
collar with a spanner wrench?

Chris



Re: unfinished castings

Steve Wells
 

Denny,
these are a master straight edge for cross slide,
they will mark 25 x3, is that the size your looking for?

http://www.machinerepair.com/scrapers.html

Steve






--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote:

Hi all

My buddy the Ratshooter told me there was someone that had
unfinished
castings for scraping standards. I know there had been some talk
about
cross slides and such but does anyone know of these and who has
them
for sale. After Forrest Addy's class I fee confident that I can
make
my own standard flats and dovetail for some of the work I am
doing.

Also the Ratshooter is working on two scraper hones for keeping a
keen
edge on your scraper. Forrest had a rather crud one he had made
but it
worked great. One thing I did find at the class was Biax scraping
tools hold up better than any other brands that were there. Even
the
ones Forrest made and were for sale. Ratshooter told me he is
photo
documenting the hone project so expect it in the home shop
machinist
magazine in the future. Tim Clarke is his real name and he has
done
several articles for the magazine. The only way we would get him
on
this list is if I give him a SB lathe. Owe trust me he will be
getting
several of them when I kick off."-)))))

Turk


Re: Odd 405 parts?

Jim B. <eeengineer@...>
 

No, Dennis, I am using all 20 DP gearing. I drive off the rocker gear on
the reversing assembly that's a 24 tooth 20 DP gear just like the spindle.
This allows me to use the 405 Gear chart and the LH screw as normal.

When I got the lathe back in 1979 the handwheel was broken and there were no
parts. Just the collar with three small stubs.
I "Found" the chrome wheel which was off a small Mill, Machined it to fit
and its been there ever since.
I have never see a "Real" one come up, at least not off a 405. Since there
is so much different I am reluctant to try later things. That was also
before I knew that the 405 was unique and that there were actually many
different models of the 9" lathe. Today I would have looked for a more
"Original" solution.

"So soon we grow old, So late we grow smart"

Old German saying.

Yes, the top oilier felts on my head stock were broken and incomplete. I
didn't know that and messed up the headstock a bit.
My solution was to replace the headstock although it was not that bad and I
ran with the 10K spindle in the top oilier headstock for a few months at one
time.

I have always used the holes for oil, but now that you mention it adding a
piece of leather would be a good thing.
Now to find a suitable piece of material.

Jim B.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex.... It takes a
touch of genius -- and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction"

Albert Einstein/ EF Schumacher (ATCMB)

-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dennis Turk
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 12:34 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Odd 405 parts?

Hi Jim

Say I see that you changed your head stock to a later one with a shifter.
Are you using all 18 pitch gears now?

I also see a nice bright chrome AAAAAAAAh Atlas hand wheel on your tail
stock. Now Jim Jim Jim what are we ever going to do with you."-
))))

I see two threaded holes in the extension portion of your cross slide. The
one complete 405 lathe I have have exactly the same holes in the same place.
You have any knowledge of what they were for? I figured someone in the past
had attached a piece of rubber or leather or something to hang off the end
of the cross slide ways to keep the chips out of the lead screw.

Turk


Re: unfinished castings

JohnW <John.Walker@...>
 

Turk
Try
http://machinerepair.com/

Are you a member of the Yahoo scraping group? Not very active but a
few knowledgeable members.

JohnW

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Turk"
<dennis.turk2@...> wrote:

Hi all

My buddy the Ratshooter told me there was someone that had
unfinished
castings for scraping standards. I know there had been some talk
about
cross slides and such but does anyone know of these and who has
them
for sale. After Forrest Addy's class I fee confident that I can
make
my own standard flats and dovetail for some of the work I am
doing.

Also the Ratshooter is working on two scraper hones for keeping a
keen
edge on your scraper. Forrest had a rather crud one he had made
but it
worked great. One thing I did find at the class was Biax scraping
tools hold up better than any other brands that were there. Even
the
ones Forrest made and were for sale. Ratshooter told me he is
photo
documenting the hone project so expect it in the home shop
machinist
magazine in the future. Tim Clarke is his real name and he has
done
several articles for the magazine. The only way we would get him
on
this list is if I give him a SB lathe. Owe trust me he will be
getting
several of them when I kick off."-)))))

Turk

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