Date   

Re: threading dial - gear

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "kc1fp" <jperkins@m...> wrote:
Dave, There are plans for a thread dial in the files section. The
file has a lot of information in it. JP
I looked in the files section before asking.

I couldn't find anything. do you know which file/folder ?

Dave


Re: CF and CR nuts

kcstott
 

Yep oilite is a "no no"on high wear surfaces. I'd go with 936 bearing
bronze, Good and hard yet very slick when machined with a high finish.
I used it to replace the bearings in my 9" Jr and it's been running for
three years on those bearings.
Kerry




--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "kc1fp" <jperkins@m...> wrote:
Oilite? Oil impregnated sintered bronze would wear out very quickly in
that application. Look in the links section of this forum for a
supplier of the acme nuts you need. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "violin959" <violin959@y...>
wrote:
Anyone attempted to make their own cross feed or compound rest
nuts?
Out of Oilite?

Also, have complete parts list for 10K, 10, 13 and 16" southbend
lathes. Original with my lathe as well as old catalogue. Let me
know
if you need part #'s.


Re: Bull gear

paul benoit <pdkbb@...>
 

Violin,
Go to "links" page- Miller fabricating, did a great job on my gear,
reasonable price-quick turnaround.
Paul


[Original Message]
From: violin959 <violin959@yahoo.com>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 5/31/2005 8:13:00 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Bull gear

Cleaning the spindle area tonight. I'm missing one tooth on the bull
gear on the spindle. Never had a problem. Lot of work to tear it all
down. Should I fix it?
This forum is a great resource. Thanks.




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Re: threading dial - gear

kc1fp
 

Dave, There are plans for a thread dial in the files section. The
file has a lot of information in it. JP


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Clive Foster
<clive_foster@t...> wrote:
Dave

There is no reason for any normal user to change the standard
threading
dial gear.

Only possible reasons I can think of are:-
1) if you have a big batch of certain odd number threads and want
to be
able to engage half nut at any point on the dial.
2) if you want to use it when doing metric threads (but that
requires a
metric lead-screw too).
3) if you have a batch of worms to make whose nominal pitch is not
compatible with the standard dial.
4) if you are trying to convert a metric lead screw lathe back to
imperial (prolly need non standard back gearing too).

All come under life is too short heading!

Clive



Hi all,

A friend had told me that if you change the threading dial gear, you
either cut more threads, or some such. he read it in an article and
then set about making his new unit.

Unfortunately, he moved before finishing and I forgot what the real
purpose was.

I have one 9" with the thread dial and the other without and plan on
making a new unit.

Any suggestions for the unit ?

I think I found a spur gear size that fits and now am ordering
one in
brass to actually try out.

Any comments would be very welcome.

Dave

I wish I had the article.

obviously, you are correct it, in itself, will not alter the pitch.
That is done in the change gears.

It *MAY* offer the opportunity to engage at more places on dial as the
leadscrew has some relation to the spindle, based on the gear ratio.

But, the good news it the spur gear has the same pitch, so getttin
gone in brass and a little filing on an angle will make a very useabe
gear.

Does anyone have plans for one ? (thread dial) if not, I'll just
copy from the origional I have.

Dave


Re: CF and CR nuts

kc1fp
 

Oilite? Oil impregnated sintered bronze would wear out very quickly in
that application. Look in the links section of this forum for a
supplier of the acme nuts you need. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "violin959" <violin959@y...> wrote:
Anyone attempted to make their own cross feed or compound rest nuts?
Out of Oilite?

Also, have complete parts list for 10K, 10, 13 and 16" southbend
lathes. Original with my lathe as well as old catalogue. Let me know
if you need part #'s.


Re: Bull gear

kc1fp
 

Take a close look at the adjacent teeth for surface cracking near he
root and then decide. I changed mine on a 10L and everything pressed
on and off. I used a gear puller and rubber mallet for the press off
and threaded rod and tubing for the press on. Its relatively simple. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "violin959" <violin959@y...> wrote:
Cleaning the spindle area tonight. I'm missing one tooth on the bull
gear on the spindle. Never had a problem. Lot of work to tear it all
down. Should I fix it?
This forum is a great resource. Thanks.


Bull gear

violin959
 

Cleaning the spindle area tonight. I'm missing one tooth on the bull
gear on the spindle. Never had a problem. Lot of work to tear it all
down. Should I fix it?
This forum is a great resource. Thanks.


Re: I,am back again

gorvil
 

I'm glad to see you're back, Bert.

Glen Reeser


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "L.G.M.van Lelieveld"
<b.v.l@h...> wrote:
Hello Guy,s after almost a year i will try again to follow the talks
about the sb9,s and so on.
i,wasnt busy with te computer but with my other hobbie the radio.
and all the spam on my computer decieded me to stop all te newsgoups
for a while
but it was almost a year.
time flys.
Bert


Re: belts, care and feeding

BOB WRIGHT
 

I use belt dressing made by Gunk in the orange spray can. I give my
belt a shot every now and then...Bob
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:
hi all,

I am loking for any data on belt maintenance.

specifically oil or other dressings?

Dave


Re: rebuilding 5c collet

grassodrafting
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "violin959" <violin959@y...>
wrote:
I have a 10k with lever 5c collet. I'm cleaning the assembly and need
to replace the phenolic shoe in the spring loaded assembly. Anyonw
done this? Do you know how long the show should be? It's small.
I just rebuilt a lever closer for my 9A, in which the phenolic shoe had
worn to nothing. The collet tube had a knurl raised in the area under
the shoe. The knurl had worn down considerably. In light of that, I
decided to fit a phosphor bronze shoe instead of the phenolic. It works
well.
Dave


belts, care and feeding

Dave Mucha
 

hi all,

I am loking for any data on belt maintenance.

specifically oil or other dressings?

Dave


Re: Unknown South Bend Model

Peter Grey <pgrey@...>
 

FWIW, I have a1933 SB 11" lathe. It came mounted on an unoriginal but sturdier-than-stock steel bench. I paid $750 for it with a three jaw chuck and a four jaw chuck - no tooling or any of the stuff listed in the auction.

In referring to my copy of "Replacement Parts for South Bend Lathes" I came up with the following. The lathe in the auction looks to be a "Series O" machine. Mine is a "Series N". I can't tell if there are functional or age differences between the two. The "O" machines appear to share their compound parts with the Junior models.

I like my machine, but parts are harder to come by than for the more common models. The only things I find inconvenient are the slow max spindle speed and the small spindle bore (also 7/8 IIRC). I've been happy with it, and would buy it again.

Peter

----- Original Message -----
From: "jimstack2158" <jimsta1942@adelphia.net>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 6:19 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Unknowen South Bend Model


Hello to all. First post, but I hope to become an active member if
things work out.

Currently e- bay has a listing for what is purported to be a
South Bend 11 inch swing
lathe, model 27-A. It looks a lot like a 9 inch C model with a
raised motor drive. I'm
spmewhat interested and have emailed the seller with questions, but
so far no response. I
have been unable to Google anything from the internet for this model,
and found only
vague, (maybe spurious) references to 11 inch SB models. Can anyone
tell me anything
about this lathe? I know parts availability could be an issue, as
opposed to the 9 inch
models but I am still entertaining this possibility of placing a bid
unless someone says
don't do it.







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I,am back again

L.G.M.van Lelieveld <b.v.l@...>
 

Hello Guy,s after almost a year i will try again to follow the talks
about the sb9,s and so on.
i,wasnt busy with te computer but with my other hobbie the radio.
and all the spam on my computer decieded me to stop all te newsgoups
for a while
but it was almost a year.
time flys.
Bert


Re: Unknowen South Bend Model

bdmail <bdmail@...>
 

http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/index.html

Have a look around...

If you find anything out yourself, he (Tony) would love to know.....


Bernie




Hello to all. First post, but I hope to become an active member if
things work out.

        Currently e- bay has a listing for what is purported to be a
South Bend 11 inch swing
lathe, model 27-A.  It looks a lot like a 9 inch C model with a
raised motor drive. I'm
spmewhat interested and have emailed the seller with questions, but
so far no response. I
have been unable to Google anything from the internet for this model,
 and found only
vague, (maybe spurious) references  to 11 inch SB models.  Can anyone
tell me anything
about this lathe? I know parts availability could be an issue, as
opposed to the 9 inch
models but  I am still entertaining this possibility of placing a bid
unless someone says
don't do it.








Re: Motor speed controls

Dave Mucha
 


One of the many things I will have to do if I choose the make-it-work
path is to replace the 3-phase motor. The easy thing to do is to put
a reversible 110v 1/2 to 3/4 HP AC motor in there. The more
interesting possibility is to put in a DC motor and use a speed
controller to get continuously variable speed control. Has anyone
here already done such a thing? An FAQs or other resource I should be
looking at?

Probably the most desired combination is a UL approved Variable Speed
controller for the motor of your needs. I always recomend that
people ooversize the VSD because one often can find a little bit
bigger motor than one needs.

I re-fitted a treadmill motor to my lathe as a temporary way of
handling the need. I had the treadmill and controller so it was
pretty easy.

What I found was that power was proportional to speed. the slower it
became, the weaker it became.

Also, at this point, I do not have a feed-back so the speed varies all
over the place. It spins up with no load and slows down under cutting
forces.

It took some time to make it all work and I would really rather have a
n AC VSD than the treadmill re-fit.

If I chose to keep the treadmill, I will replace it with a 2hp motor
and add a jackshaft. that would allow me to get the motor speed way
up and keep the lathe speed normal.

HP = torque times RPM or some such, so dropping the speed with pullies
will really increase the delivered power. AND... treadmill motors are
vastly over rated. so a 2hp nameplate is proably much closer to 1hp,
and at reduced speed, it drops even further.

But.. if you are a scrounger and see a treadmill for the taking, it is
fun to have the Variable speed.



Dave


Re: Got myself in trouble at an auction today SB 10x36 "A"

bdmail <bdmail@...>
 

Many people have done it, but you should consider leaving the motor and adding a VFD....”Variable Frequency Drive”...Variable speed and you can keep the motor and smooth operation.


Bernie





The easy thing to do is to put
a reversible 110v 1/2 to 3/4 HP AC motor in there.  The more
interesting possibility is to put in a DC motor and use a speed
controller to get continuously variable speed control.  Has anyone
here already done such a thing?  


Re: Crossfeed screw binding

bdmail <bdmail@...>
 

LOL


Bernie




Kind of reminds
me of a friend telling me that a four-wheel-drive will only get you
stuck farther away from help than a two-wheel-drive.


Re: Turning Titanum on a heavy 10"

tjsite <tjsite@...>
 

Thanks all for the replies everyone. We'll see how it goes when the
bar shows up...

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "kc1fp" <jperkins@m...> wrote:
Carbide inserts should work but the cut depth may change each pass. Ti
is queer stuff that way so approach the finished dimension with small
cuts. Commercially, high quality carbide inserts or ceramic tools are
used. Its tough stuff and it is also burns fiercely so don't go for
blue chips. JP


Re: Ten K gap bed south bend

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, bdmail <bdmail@o...> wrote:
Thanks Dick,

Wow, is it a smooth and accurate transition in your opinion?
I¹m not trying to bug you, just curious.

It just seems like such a hard task to make something like the
lathe bed
have a removable piece and have it still be so accurate.


Thanks

Bernie
Gap-bed lathes are cast, then fitted, then ground. they are desinged
with the intention of the section being removed and replaced. hence
the common name.

Also, the carriages have the cross slide closer to the left edge. My
workshop have a couple inches of casting over there.

The ones I used to work on had the tool post much closer.

Dave


Re: My lathe on ebay and weight question

Nick Hajdu <nickh@...>
 

James,

 

I am looking at a 1952 SBL Catalogue, #5205. It shows a 14-1/2” lathe with 7’ bed, cataloged number CL185D. It’s “Boxed Weight” is 2750 lbs. It’s “Crated Weight” is 2145 lbs. in my catalogue. I would assume with the second number is correct with little or no packaging. I hope this is of help to you.

 

Nick,

New Orleans

 

-----Original Message-----
From: southbendlathe@... [mailto:southbendlathe@...] On Behalf Of James Peverill
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:02 PM
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] My lathe on ebay and weight question

 


Actually I put it in there since I wanted it in the shot but didn't want to put it on the ways!

People are inquiring with me about shipping quotes for this machine.  Does anyone on this list know about what it might weigh?  Anyone shipped a similar machine before?

james


john tarbert wrote:

James,
    That is a nice lathe but, why ohy why would anyone
leave the key in the chuck??

--- James Peverill wrote:

>
> I listed one of my lathes on ebay last night, is
> item #7519302812.  Link
> is below, but I doubt it will work properly.
>
>
>
href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7519302812&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7519302812&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1
>
> I started it priced to sell :)
>
> james
>
> >
>


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