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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
bdmail <bdmail@...>
Damn right !
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Wow! Bernie
Dave, your resolution will result in the resurrection of this lathe. Unless the bed is badly worn, it will be accurate. Most everything else can be dealt with given your patience and perseverence.
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power cross feed not working (longitudal does)
Paul moruzzi
I am in the process of dismantiling my 9" model A to clean everything
up and repaint (probably with POR-15 industrial paint). The only thing that doesnt work on the lathe is the power cross feed. The powered longitudal feed does work so the clutch should be OK. I'm assuming when I get the apron off (I am suffering from 1 stuck apron screw that is currently soaking) I'll find somthing like a gear that should be fixed to a shaft no longer fixed. Any pointers would be appreciated. A few other questions comments, Lots of things are somewhat stuck (but no rust so I'm happy) such as the graduated colar on the crossfeed. I removed the set screw but the collar doesnt rotate (the handle did come off no problem). Any tricks? Planning on wraping a piece of inner tube around to protect it and then trying pliers. What material should be used to make replacement jaws for a steady rest? (The jaws in the steady rest are bizaar not pointed as in the pictures) or are they available cheaply? The bed has visible wear (slight grove at top of ways). I'm thinking of learning scraping. Anyone in central MA (Worcester area) willing to give a lesson? The more I read the list the more I think I got a steal. I paid $150 for 3 1/2 foot model A (on a very wobbly table that needs to be replaced) with 3 & 4 jaw chucks, collets, steady rest, dog plate (no dogs), 4 position carrage stop, and several boxes of tool bits centers etc, parellels, and a bunch of graduated rods that have tapered ends (maybe a 135deg included angle) anyone know what these are for? Thanks to everyone for sharing their knowlege. Paul Upton MA
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Re: Double Helix Threading
Clive Foster
Summarising:-
Offset on thread dial is quickest and prolly best if you have brain fully engaged with lathe set up correctly and know exactly what you are doing. Reckon it needs practice. Disengage gears, move chuck by appropriate angle, re-engage and cut thread works well and is simple to do. However you need to be very careful with locking things down and backlash when setting up as its quite easy to end up with the second thread just far enough out not to engage properly. Setting top slide parallel to work and off-setting the tool is most practical if you need "think breaks". Gotta get the offset calculation right but everything is under your direct control and you have a chance of working back to find the error if it all goes whahooie shaped. If it doesn't fit, it's easy to adjust the second thread in a controlled manner (if you have got the first one right and to depth then the relative error must be on no 2). As always your best method is the one which suits the way you work and think. If you are unsure its well worth investing in some sticky backed paper to roll around a suitable size mandrel and substitute a pencil for the cutting tool to clearly show WTHIGO. Best to turn the chuck by hand and use a coarser thread setting. As ever with this sort of exercise "deliberate" mistakes are almost more instructive than getting familiar with the right method. (30 seconds with my useful stuff box will prove that the pencil'n paper trick is very much "do as I say, not as I do") Clive
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
scottimsjr@...
Dave, your resolution will result in the resurrection of this lathe.
Unless the bed is badly worn, it will be accurate. Most everything else
can be dealt with given your patience and perseverence.
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
Dave
?
Could be past saving for tight tolerance work, but I was reading the newbie FAQ last night and I notice it is a guide for " ressurecting" a lathe, as opposed to say, just "restoring one". I think this definitely falls into the former category. I did get one of the apron screws out, the other one is still soaking. The Coumpound rest is off.It was loose, I didn't want to pry anything until I was sure how it was held on there. I think just more soaking,heat, percussion, and maybe another trip to the electolyte bath, maybe not so much amperage this time. Part of the headstock is turning freely, the Quill gear, just from frequent oiling. The bushing seems frozen in there, but with the compound rest off, I can get oil in behind everything now. Thanks again for all the help, knowing how it comes apart makes a BIG difference. I'll try and keep these to a minimum, I think that FAQ reminder might have been pointed in this direction! Dave
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File - Reminder.txt
southbendlathe@...
Reminder To All SBL Group Members
The FAQ will answer many of your questions. READ IT FIRST! All discussion relating to South Bend and similar lathes is welcome: lathes, tooling, methods of work, repair, restoration, projects, the saving of SBL by LeBlond, where you found your old SBL, when you first started working with one of these beasts, etc. Picture attachments are fine but try to keep file sizes small. Be kind to our dial-up members. Brief postings by members on items for sale/trade/need are fine. Please offer them here first then eBay. This is not a commercial group, but members "in the business" are welcome to let the group know about on-topic services. Please note however, that SPAMMERS will be banned. Quick Links: The FAQ is available at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/SouthBendLatheFAQ.html Contributors to the guide and FAQ are always welcome. Click on http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/ to get to the group. To unsubscribe, send an email to: mailto:southbendlathe-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Re: more shop tips
bdmail <bdmail@...>
Wow, thanks Ron!
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Bernie
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Re: help on flat belt for south bend 9 inch
kyud8 <kyud8@...>
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "acetate2003" <acetate2003@y...>
wrote: i need a belt how long are they and were do i get on are how can iIdont know if this might help you or somebody but the lathe I found had had the belt replaced. They had took a timing belt and cut all the cogs off the inside. Seems to work fine to me. Mark
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Re: gear setup
kyud8 <kyud8@...>
Thanks Henry P. I fill stupid for not thinking of that my self. I knew
there had to be somthing simple wrong but I have not played with one that much. Very greatfull for your advise and knowledge.Mark J.
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Re: Double Helix Threading
I have hundreds of those
stinkers. The various advice I've had over the years boils down to basically
this;
The smell is mildew. You can
kill mildew spores with sunlight and fresh air. Ozone and UV light will do a
more complete job, but I think it would also damage the paper. Baking soda soaks
up the smell somewhat, but can be messy. What do i do? I buy comic-book storage
bags and put them in there. If there's a few that are really smelly, I take them
outside and red them on a sunny day, then put them back in the bags. i don't
seal the bags but i do fold the top over and hold it there with a strip of cello
tape.
The wife doesn't complain (too
much)about the smell any more, just the space they take up and what guests might
think of the piles of boxes. The boxes I use come from the supermarket where my
wife works and once contained sealed bags of chicken parts. The comic-book ones
fit them perfectly but can be expensive. Take a mag with you to the comic store
as there are several sizes of bag.
Keith
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Fw: Re: Double Helix Threading
Fabien <poirierf@...>
----- Original Message -----
From: Max
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] Re: Double Helix Threading Hi,
I was just going over old "Popular Mechanics,
Shop Notes 1949" and find the complete article "Multiple Threads" by Sam
Brown.
The exact same picture was used in this really good
article about 4 pages on "how to" , Spacing with dog on faceplate, Using
thread dial, Step by Step example of threading, How to use tap, Setting thread
with compound etc.
Oh by the way this "Popular Mechanic" is older than
me for sure, I get it from the old man shop... any of you guys have a trick to
get rid of the basement smell(humidity) from old book ...I already try fleeze
and fresh air.
Have nice Sunday
Max (Fabien)
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
Dave
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Ed Beers <sreeb@b...> wrote:
Dave,Have not gotten the lead screw out. I assume you mean the screw holding the ball crank onto the cross-feed screw, and not the cross- feed screw itself? I only have the Army manual to reference here so I am not being a stickler for terminology, I just want to make sure I understand exactly what you're talking about.( I haven't been able to acces the newbie guide until just now. Kept coming up as file translation error or something) I think I know where the problem is now though. Probably the bushing and the dial are frozen together and frozen into the slide itself. More soaking. I did get the swivel lock nuts out. The pins are still in there though. I did manage to get a few of the screws out after I ground a few screwdrivers for a tight fit. Thanks for that tip, made all the difference( now I know what I was saving all those old screwdrivers for:) ) Thanks very much for all the help! I have a pretty good idea what to focus on now. I didn't want to force anything, just kept looking for those lock nuts. So what keeps the cross slide and rest from moving when you're cutting something? MUCH THANKS!! Dave
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
ed beers
On Sun, 2005-05-01 at 22:51 +0000, Dave wrote:
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Ed Beers <sreeb@b...> wrote:I meant unscrewing the bushing from the cross slide.Dave,Have not gotten the lead screw out. I assume you mean the screw Note that to do this you must be able to either move the slide or spin the lead screw in the bushing. Have you been able to remove the oiling screws on the cross slide? More penetrating oil. I don't want to be to pessimistic but if you are having this much trouble disassembling it, it may be past saving... Ed I only have the Army manual to reference here so IThe lead screws/nuts.
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Re: Help: 10L Motor Pulley Question
Joe R
My 1942 10L on your style cabinet gas a 2 step motor pulley. On is 2" as most agree and the second is 3 3/8ths inches. Hope this helps
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Joe R.
----- Original Message -----
From: "youngcj3" <youngcj@ijntb.net> To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2005 12:32 AM Subject: [southbendlathe] Help: 10L Motor Pulley Question Refurbishing a SB 10L, it is the steel cabinet type with the 180
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Re: for billy -Help: 10L Motor Pulley Question
youngcj3 <youngcj@...>
Sorry, no on the extra tailstock.
When I disassembled my apron, I took a generous amount of pics. Can't seem to find enough space in the files or photos to upload. I even made notes on the routing and the oil res. cover was off. Carl --- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "bsit89" <bsit89@y...> wrote: Carl,motor, and a 2 step flat intermediate pulley, just like what you describe.this. it. andup)??? drop me a note.
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Re: Material for Intake valve guide
Alex <flyboy145@...>
Thanks to all who
responded to my post. I'm glad I asked - I never knew cast iron was
used for valve guides. I was expecting a type of brass/bronze. I took it
apart a while ago, I'll do that again here to find out the material for the
guide and valve wear.
Thanks!!!
Alex
a few suggestions
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
ed beers
Dave,
First apply more kroil... No lock. There is a gib that takes out the slack on the dovetail. IIRC you have 9 and this is adjusted via set screws on the side of the compound. If you can remove the set screws, you should be able to force the gib out with a punch. Have you managed to remove the lead screw for the compound? You should be able to unscrew the entire dial assemble from the compound. A strap wrench would help. Note that the lead screw must not be frozen to do this since the dials mounting threads and lead screw have different pitches. Ed On Sun, 2005-05-01 at 02:03, Dave wrote: Good morning.* -- Ed Beers 858 658-0050 x111 Vativ Technologies ed@vativ.com 9339 Genesee Ave., Ste 130 www.vativ.com San Diego, CA 92121
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Re: my not so Rusty 'Ol Cross Slide-cross slide lock?
gorvil
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <dkirk_4@y...> wrote:
Good morning.electrolyte bath, and on the surface anyway, is quite rust free! The crossslide is still frozen on the compound rest and on the saddle. While I wastrying to free up the compound rest swivel-I found the two allen headlock screws that keep it in place, loosened them, and with a few tapsof a hammer, loosened and lubed and it swivels freely.These two screws ride on two pins with angled ends that clamp the inverted cone shaped mounting spud of the compound. This is all that holds the compound on the carriage. You will have to unscrew them quite a ways for the pins to clear the wide part of the cone to completely remove the compound. There must be some kind of locking mechanism on the compoundrest to keep it from sliding on the swivel and a lock on the on thebase too, right? It's difficult to tell from the parts diagram in theArmy manual,but it looks like the screw on top of the compound restbase bears down on the cross-feed screw and that locks it in place onthe saddle, or the screw in the graduated collar? I don't see anything on the compound rest except a screw on thethere to zero it or adjust it so I'm utterly confused here.little better explanation - like cross-feed travel locking nut maybe?:)
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Re: Double Helix Threading
Reading this thread (no pun
intended) has me looking back through some of my old school texts. So far the
best one has been 'Technology of Machine Tools, 4th Ed.'. It has a section on
cutting multiple-lead threads. The advice there states this;
' Double-start threads with an odd-numbered
lead may be cut using the thread-chasing dial.'
1. Take one cut on the thread by engaging the split nut at a
numbered line on the dial.
2. Without changing the depth of cut, take another cut at an unnumbered
line on the chasing dial.
3. Continue cutting the thread to depth, taking two
passes (one on a numbered line, the other on an unnumbered line) for every
depth-of-cut setting.'
This is a
very good book and there is way more information in there on this subject than I
can relate here without scanning.
Keith
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Re: Help: 10L Motor Pulley Question
kc1fp
That is correct, it takes a size B Vee belt. JP
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--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "youngcj3" <youngcj@i...> wrote:
Refurbishing a SB 10L, it is the steel cabinet type with the 180
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