--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "brettn048" <Brett3ww@b...>
wrote:

Dan,

On my 10K Model-A the stud gear is the top/outermost 20T gear of the
pair that mates with the reverser gears. That's why HTRAL is listing
two. Then the Stud gear mates with an 80T idler which goes on to the
56T Output gear, connected to the QC box. In mine the Output gear
sits behind/under a 40T spare gear that is to be used as a stud gear
for coarse threads.

Dan,

The 40, 56 and 80 toot gears are pretty common as they are part of the
normal complement of change gears used on model "C" lathes. The 20
tooth gear is not. I made a some a few months ago basically to test my
gear cutting skills. I bought the gear cutters from Grand Tool when
they had them on close out. I still have a few 20 tooth stud gears
left. If you want one for $20.00, let me know.

Glen Reeser
gorvil(at)aol.com

Just a note to remind you all how helpful Rose Marvin at Parts Works is.

I had the opportunity to stop by earlier this week to visit, while en route
to Pittsburgh for other business. While brief, I had a very nice
conversation with Rose, and found her as nice in person as she has been for
a long time by phone and email.

If you are looking for any parts for your South Bend Lathe, new or used,
please remember Parts Works as a source.

Also, I understand she may be interested in purchasing good condition used
parts for various SB machinery, so if you have something to sell, give her a
call.

For those of you who are new here, Rose is a former employee of South Bend
Lathe. She worked in the parts department from (I think) 1991 until the
parts operation was moved to LeBlond. She then worked for LeBlond for a
time before partnering up and creating Parts Works.

Rose Marvin
Parts Works, Inc.
3702 W Sample St Ste 1104
South Bend, IN 46619-2947
Business: (574) 289-7781
Business Fax: +1 (574) 289-7783
E-mail: rose@partsworksinc.net
http://partsworksinc.net/


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Brett, Thanks for the info, I guess the only
remaining question is in using the threading dial.
I'm guessing to be safe just use the same mark
each time.

The generous sharing of information
on the board is only surpassed by the
quality of the information, amazing.
Regards
Dan

Guys if anyone is looking for a nice heavy 10 please considor buying
ebay item 4368363843 from me. Note this auction has ENDED with no bids
and I am not listing ebay items on here, I know many object to people
doing that, so I wanted to be clear that is not the case here. It is
just an easy reference where I can show you all the info and pics you
need without a million emails.

I really do not want to part this machine out as it is too nice but I
also am not looking to give it away at a loss either.

I also have no time or patience to slap some paint on it like other
sellers do and get big $$. Maybe I need to hire some kid for $5/hr to
do that to my machines as it seems to really pay off...go figure.

Dave is a dumpster diver from way back. I've scored some impressive
finds from scrap metal, to my favorite, a 12" bench disk grinder with a
burned out 3 phase motor. I picked up a used 220 vac motor and with a
few mods to fit the motor, it's a beautiful thing!

Take the back plate off the chuck and measure the back plate only on
the machine. Make sure that there isn't a burr or raised ding on the
back plate that's not allowing it to fully seat against the spindle.

If the backplate is showing the run out unfortunately you'll have to
replace it as the machined shoulder in the plate needs to just fit
in the recess in the chuck and if you machine it to eliminate the
run out you'll make it too far undersize.

If you have a common thread size on your spindle you can buy back
plates with the spindle threads already cut.

However, you will need to do some final machining on the plate to
fit it to your chuck.

Mount the plate securely on the spindle and take a light high speed
facing cut across the entire plate to true it to your spindle.

Then carefully turn a shoulder on the plate to be a light press fit
in your chuck back.

Actually I guess if your current back plate is pretty meaty you
might be able to face the current shoulder off the plate, re-face
the plate true and turn a new shoulder on it as described above.

Good luck-

Paul T.

--- "David J. Young" <davey@maine.rr.com> wrote:

I got this pipe that's almost 4'
long out of a
dumpster....

Shopping at Midnight Metal Mart again, I see? Wasn;t
outside a nuclear plant, was it? 8*)

Seriously, sounds like a good score. Could well be seamless
drawn tubing - if there isn't a visible weld it would be
worth a dhot.

ajr

The journey is the destination. Anything else is illusion.

Please ignore the following advertising.....



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JP,

The pipe I've got is about 2.5" diameter, 1/2" wall thickness and with
a 1.5" hole. Do you think that's welded?

Pleading ignorance here, I got this pipe that's almost 4' long out of a
dumpster....

Dave

Dave, Be forewarned, steel pipe is welded and the weld seam is much
harder than the rest of the pipe. You will find it as you cut into the
pipe with a bit, you may even break the tip of the bit from the weld.
JP


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "David J. Young" <davey@m...>
wrote:

Bob,

The photo's in the SB 10K forum regarding internal threads help a lot
(at least in my mind)! Your 10K forum is an excellent addendum to the
regular SB forum.

I would have never thought of reversing the compound. My first try at
threading on my lathe was to make some plugs for my spindle chuck and 3
and 4 jaw chucks, so I have something to check my threading with. I've
got access to some heavy walled pipe that I will be doing some
practicing on.

Dave Young

I guys, I did a small production run today with a customers parts on
my new collet chuck. The parts were chucked on the threads 5/8"OD and
drilled deeper. All the parts ran true, and i only used hand tight on
the collet closer nut...Bob

Dan,

On my 10K Model-A the stud gear is the top/outermost 20T gear of the
pair that mates with the reverser gears. That's why HTRAL is listing
two. Then the Stud gear mates with an 80T idler which goes on to the
56T Output gear, connected to the QC box. In mine the Output gear
sits behind/under a 40T spare gear that is to be used as a stud gear
for coarse threads.

In HTRAL page 74, Fig 211A, The Stud Gear is shown as the "Small Stud
Gear" and the Output gear is located behind/under the "Large Stud
Gear.

Also, if the book isn't handy, it might help to look at the image of
SBL's Metric Threading Chart, located here in
Files > Techinfo > Gears & Gearing > metricgearchart.jpg

Their 56T gear is the Ouput, and you will be using the regular (80T)
idler gear in place of the 100/127 transposer pair shown on the
Metric Chart.


Hope this all helps,

Brett


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "albieguy" <albieguy@y...>
wrote:

Thanks for the chart, it looks exactly
what I am looking for.

Where are the stud and output gears located?
I am referencing off the How to Run a Lathe
manual. I believe the stud gear is above the
idler #612k24 on page 122. But they list two
stud gears
Not sure where the output gear is, not shown in
this manual.
If I understand all this correctly I need
to obtain a set of change gear and use
as per your chart. Very nice.

Thanks
Dan

canyonman_44 wrote:

I shot an E-mail to the Ebay Custom gear cutter. Very reasonable
prices, will see about quality. He want detailed dimentions of the
gears I want but he is asking stuff that is Alien language to me.

So does anyone have a copy of the dimentional drawing of the twin
gears on the reverser assy on an old 13" SBL TKL10 Mod A circa 1953?

Thanks,    Ken








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What`s his e-mail?

Thanks for the chart, it looks exactly
what I am looking for.

Where are the stud and output gears located?
I am referencing off the How to Run a Lathe
manual. I believe the stud gear is above the
idler #612k24 on page 122. But they list two
stud gears
Not sure where the output gear is, not shown in
this manual.
If I understand all this correctly I need
to obtain a set of change gear and use
as per your chart. Very nice.

Thanks
Dan




--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "brettn048" <Brett3ww@b...>
wrote:

Setting up to cut metric threads on a 9 or 10K Model-A can be
expensive. So what do you do if you need to cut a metric thread

for

a quick repair job where accuracy is not the main issue? Even
without the 100/127 metric transposing gear pair, if you just have

a

good set of change-gears handy you may be able to cut a pretty

good

approximation to most metric threads.

The Excel chart, which can be downloaded at
<http://bnordgren.org/files/metappr.xls> shows QC setups to cut
metric threads accurate to +/-0.1%, hopefully "close enough" for

many

purposes. The chart also has an accuracy computer which lets you
test how accurate a thread is going to be for a particular setup.
You can get the same information from Guy Cadrin's spreadsheets,

but

this chart is just arranged a little differently.

In all the combinations, using stud gears from 20 to 56T and

output

gears from 42 to 60T, there are quite a few QC settings which

produce

metric threads accurate to +/-0.1%. On average, there are more

than

five gear combinations which can approximate each of the threads

on

SBL's metric threading chart, though some threads have only two.

Hope this is useful.

Brett

Setting up to cut metric threads on a 9 or 10K Model-A can be
expensive. So what do you do if you need to cut a metric thread for
a quick repair job where accuracy is not the main issue? Even
without the 100/127 metric transposing gear pair, if you just have a
good set of change-gears handy you may be able to cut a pretty good
approximation to most metric threads.

The Excel chart, which can be downloaded at
<http://bnordgren.org/files/metappr.xls> shows QC setups to cut
metric threads accurate to +/-0.1%, hopefully "close enough" for many
purposes. The chart also has an accuracy computer which lets you
test how accurate a thread is going to be for a particular setup.
You can get the same information from Guy Cadrin's spreadsheets, but
this chart is just arranged a little differently.

In all the combinations, using stud gears from 20 to 56T and output
gears from 42 to 60T, there are quite a few QC settings which produce
metric threads accurate to +/-0.1%. On average, there are more than
five gear combinations which can approximate each of the threads on
SBL's metric threading chart, though some threads have only two.

Hope this is useful.

Brett

MMM.  I know you didn't ask for all that follows, but might be of
use.

Well, first I ordered the wick from Leblond (they now handle SB
parts exclusively).  Possibly obtainable elsewhere????

Yes you have to disassembly the apron, if you're going to do a
complete re-wicking.  I took a generous amount of pictures (digita
camera) as I disassembled, as well, best that I could - the routing
of the wicking (memory lapse - you know what I mean).

Two types (wicking) are used in the apron (in case you do not have a
parts catalog):

  1.  1/16" x 1/8"  PN  SB256x1, sold per foot @ $3.00 per foot.
       This one I used for all the shafts. I had to "assume" which
        wick size went were, the parts catalog does not specify.
  2.  3/32" x 3/16"  PN  SB256x3, sold per ft @ $3.00 per foot.
        It appears that this one is used for the clutch.  This
         one I have not run yet, seriously contemplating
         converting to the toggle clutch (don't ask the cost
         unless you are laying down).  So, until then will
         wait.  
  3.  Gasket for the Oil Trough Cover  PN SBPT412R1  @ $5.00.

  4.  From many a year ago and lesson(s) learned from refurbishing a
9", I bought 4 ft of each wicking.  Yes it is an over kill, but on
first attempt to tie (smaller wick size) the knot down in the oil
sump, yeap you guessed it - it broke.  The larger size one, you
could get buy with less, but figued it might have other uses in the
future.

With all that said:
  1.  Don't perform this unless you are ready, you can't get in any
rush.  Patience, patience.........
  2.  Felt wicking is "Delicate", it will break easily.
  3.  I quickly learned that, when trying to tie the knots (the
wicks are tied off and trying to tie the knots became a challenge -
you'll find out).
  4.  Quickly learned that extremely small hands and l o n g fingers
would be an asset, of which, niether did I have.  I have an old
military field medical kit, it has those little tiny scissor looking
clamps - some straight some with bent tips (just can't think of
their name).  These had the serrated jaws, smooth would have been
better.  The ones I have are short - l o n g versions would be more
useful - I believe.  As well, one or two long tweezers.
  5.  I did not attempt to pull the knots tight for fear of breaking.
just made sure there was a knot and it was secured???????

Carl


--- In southbendlathe@..., "Russ Wolfe"
wrote:
>
> --- In southbendlathe@..., "youngcj3"
wrote:
> >
> > Have a 1942 SB 10 hvy that I am refurbishing.
> >
> > Spent the last several hours replacing the wicking in the apron,
> > thought it was going to be a snap - but NOT.
> 
> 
>  Carl, I too have a hv 10 and my next project on it will be re-
wicking
> the apron. Is it 1/8" and about how much does it take? Do you have
to
> disassemble the apron to put in new felts and did you use grade
F1`
> felt? Thanks for any help. Russ Wolfe





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Bob,

The photo's in the SB 10K forum regarding internal threads help a lot
(at least in my mind)! Your 10K forum is an excellent addendum to the
regular SB forum.

I would have never thought of reversing the compound. My first try at
threading on my lathe was to make some plugs for my spindle chuck and 3
and 4 jaw chucks, so I have something to check my threading with. I've
got access to some heavy walled pipe that I will be doing some
practicing on.

Dave Young

It most likely will. The chuck and faceplate should screw on to the
shoulder by hand, otherwise you may have crap in the threads.
McMasters part number for the file is 2616A16 and it is under $14. JP


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, Sandra Trempe <strempe4@v...>
wrote:

Thanks JP

I will order one of those restoring file from McMaster. I don't know

if this

could also work on my 2 faceplates. They seem to have the same

thread as the

Chuck.



Pat



_____

From: kc1fp [mailto:jperkins@m...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 5:19 PM
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: 4Jaw Chuck not fitting




Pat, The Skinner chucks made for Southbend were excellent chucks.
There is no tight fit. What you can do is to remove the threaded
adapter plate on the back of the chuck, clamp it in a vise and scrape
the threads with an internal thread restoring file, 8tpi. The file is
available from McMasters. The wrong size thread would be off by a
country mile. JP


--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "borenson444" <strempe4@v...>
wrote:

About my 4 jaw chuck that does not fit the spindle of my 1964 9" model
A, on it are these markings.

4 Jaw no. 4006-55
South Bend Lathe Wks.
Made in USA
by Skinner Chuck Co.

Dose it ring a bell for anybody?

Pat

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My 3J chuck is wobbling for lack of a better term. Following some
advices, I put a center in the spindle and I get about 0.0001 or less
runout on the tip of the center. When I put the chuck on, and measure
the body of the chuck I get runout of 0.007. Next I checked the
shoulder and I get the same 0.007 runout.
So it means that the chuck and the spindle shaft are fine but that the
shoulder is crooked. My questions are:
1)Have you seen this before?
2)How do I go about fixing this?

Thanks for your help.

Pat