Date   

Re: Disassembly of Skinner 4 Jaw Chuck

qbox09
 

Bernard, I have a Skinner 6" 4 jaw and the four bolts you mention
hold the chuck to the backlate. I assume that you removed the jaws
so all that you have to clean is the jaw screw threads in the face
of the chuck. There should be no need to remove the backplate. My
chuck # is 4006.

Bob D

--- In southbendlathe@..., "Bernard R"
<bwjarandall@c...> wrote:

I needed to grind the jaws of my chuck. Having finished I would
now
like to disassemle it to make sure I get rid of all the grinding
dust.

I have removed the 4 screws in the face of the chuck but don't see
how the rest of it comes apart, surpisingly the SB parts manual
doesn't show chucks.

The chuck is stamped South Bend Skinner Chuck.

Info gratefully received.

Thanks

BernardR.


Disassembly of Skinner 4 Jaw Chuck

Bernard R <bwjarandall@cox-internet.com>
 

I needed to grind the jaws of my chuck. Having finished I would now
like to disassemle it to make sure I get rid of all the grinding dust.

I have removed the 4 screws in the face of the chuck but don't see
how the rest of it comes apart, surpisingly the SB parts manual
doesn't show chucks.

The chuck is stamped South Bend Skinner Chuck.

Info gratefully received.

Thanks

BernardR.


Re: spindle thread problem/question

makowicki <wayne@...>
 

How were they before you put the nut on?
I have yet to see a chuck back plate run perfect and the threaded
spindles are the most prone to this. Its very common to machine the
backing plate to you machine.
are off .002.
my question is this: is it the threads or the shoulder on the
spindle that aligns the chuck concentric? i know that .002 isnt
the
end of the world, especially considering its only an issue if i
remove and reset my work, but still the whole thing is really
bugging me


Tailstock

Dave Mucha
 

Hi all,

Saw a couple of decent tailstocks for a 9" SB today at the used
machine place. $175 each, seems pretty high to me.

Also he had a 9" under motor, taper attachment, HUGE bore, maybe 1-
1/2" ?, with manual collet, I think a 5C. I should have taken the
serial number down. $1,850.00 used.

He has another with lever closure on the collet. probably wnats more
for that one.

I'm not sure if they had Aloris tool posts or not. Probably will not
have them tomarrow. He tries to keep them as a complete unit, but
some scavengers will pull parts off things and get them cheap.

Dave


Re: Alignment question

carbure2003
 

In order to determine if it is the tailstock spindle or the spindle
that is in problem, a test should be done with the tailstock spindle
locked.

If a motion is measured at the spindle when tightening the tailstock
on the bed, then the major problem is on the base.

My belief is that play in the tailstock spindle is not as much of a
problem as wear onthe tailstock slide surface. If the spindle is
tightened always at the same length of extension, the centre should
remain in constant alignment with the headstock. (provided there is
no wear on the bed)


Giy Cadrin


--- In southbendlathe@..., "eng4turns" <eng4turns@y...>
wrote:

For grins, I went home last night and measured the slop on my
tailstock spindle. This is a 1946 13" lathe with the clamp nuts,
not
like a 9" with the split housing.

Anyway, with the spindle retracted and a DTI resting on top, there
was a total of 0.0075" diametral clearance, measured by pushing the
spindle down and then pulling it up. With the spindle run out to
the
4" mark, the same test gave 0.0015".

Second test: With the spindle retracted, I set a little drag on
the
clamp and then tried to run the spindle out to the 4" mark. Did
not
make it past 2" when it bound up.

Third test: With a DTI on top of the spindle and spindle fully
retracted, engaged the clamp. Zero deflection on the DTI. Tried
it
again, same result. Did not pursue this anomaly because I had some
turnin' to do. But I do know that occasionally I have had to
fiddle
with clamp force to get 'tween-centers turning to give me a good
result. I think, even with the wear, there's a tendency for the
spindle to center properly until you apply an external force to
it.
At any particular time, the clamp may or may not affect the spindle
position.

So it looks like at least in my case the clamp force issue is all
related to spindle wear.

Ed in Florida

--- In southbendlathe@..., Kevin Gregg <mrcodewiz@y...>
wrote:
Something is definitely worn. I was looking at it
last night and found that I can feel a lot of play in
both the handwheel and the ram - I guess I'll be
taking it apart for further inspection.

-Kevin




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spindle thread problem/question

joesfoundry
 

i recently got a 1940s era 10l. its got some wear but all in all its
pretty nice. my first project was to make a faceplate for it. since
i have never cut threads before i opted to buy a 2 1/4 x 8 tpi nut
and turn it down and attach it to the back of my plate. the nut was
hardened and it threaded easily onto the spindle .heres where my
problem came. when i had the nut bored for the spindle shoulder and
faced i went to thread it onto my spindle and encountered some
resistance. i continued to work it on, following bad advice (dont
ask) that my spindle, being the harder of the two, would straighten
out the bur. eventually i ended up hand scraping the bur out of the
nut.
im concerned that i may have damaged my threads, my chuck and face
plate still screw on easily, but when i remove and replace them they
are off .002.
my question is this: is it the threads or the shoulder on the
spindle that aligns the chuck concentric? i know that .002 isnt the
end of the world, especially considering its only an issue if i
remove and reset my work, but still the whole thing is really
bugging me


Re: Alignment question

eng4turns
 

For grins, I went home last night and measured the slop on my
tailstock spindle. This is a 1946 13" lathe with the clamp nuts, not
like a 9" with the split housing.

Anyway, with the spindle retracted and a DTI resting on top, there
was a total of 0.0075" diametral clearance, measured by pushing the
spindle down and then pulling it up. With the spindle run out to the
4" mark, the same test gave 0.0015".

Second test: With the spindle retracted, I set a little drag on the
clamp and then tried to run the spindle out to the 4" mark. Did not
make it past 2" when it bound up.

Third test: With a DTI on top of the spindle and spindle fully
retracted, engaged the clamp. Zero deflection on the DTI. Tried it
again, same result. Did not pursue this anomaly because I had some
turnin' to do. But I do know that occasionally I have had to fiddle
with clamp force to get 'tween-centers turning to give me a good
result. I think, even with the wear, there's a tendency for the
spindle to center properly until you apply an external force to it.
At any particular time, the clamp may or may not affect the spindle
position.

So it looks like at least in my case the clamp force issue is all
related to spindle wear.

Ed in Florida

--- In southbendlathe@..., Kevin Gregg <mrcodewiz@y...>
wrote:
Something is definitely worn. I was looking at it
last night and found that I can feel a lot of play in
both the handwheel and the ram - I guess I'll be
taking it apart for further inspection.

-Kevin




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Re: Apron oilers question

Chris Crawford
 

I dont have a 13 but I do have my Heavy 10 apart and could take some
pics and e-mail them to you if you think they would help. The Apron
is still fully assembled, just removed from the machine. I am
rebuilding the machine one componet at a time and I have not got
around to the apron yet, but all of the wicks are in place.

Good luck,
Chris in SC


Re: Apron oilers question

eng4turns
 

James; When I rebuilt my 13", I used parts lists and exploded
diagrams from http://www.zetagraphics.com/shop/sbparts/sbparts.html

It's not perfect but if it looked like it was for a wick and seemed
logical from a lubrication standpoint, I installed one. So far, so
good.

Ed in Florida


--- In southbendlathe@..., James Peverill <jamespev@n...>
wrote:

I took the apron apart on my 13", and unfortunately most of the oil
wicks were pretty much destroyed. They were a bit weaker than the
hard
tar like residue they were embedded in...

I want to make sure I get the wicks back in the right places, but I
don't really have any reference info that describes them. I have
the
south bend parts manual, but it doesn't show the wicks. Does
anyone
have any diagrams on how the wicks are installed in the apron?

Some of them are pretty obvious, but a few are a bit more arcane.
One
of them appeared to loop around the power feed worm drive screw,
but it
was totally disintegrated.

Any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

james


Re: 1922 9" Reverse tumbler gear

JohnW <John.Walker@...>
 

Steve
What is the PD of the spindle gear? (#teeth+2)/diameter)

IIRC the tumbler gears on my later 9" are 20 DP. I'm not sure the PA
though. Do the gears on the tumbler you bought mesh properly?

Most likely the PA will be 14 1/2 or 20. The 14 1/2 was an older
standard and was used by SB for many of the gears on the 9", so my
first guess would be 14 1/2.

Short of buying a set of gauges, try meshing the spindle gear with a
known gear. I believe the change gears on a newer 9" are 18 PD 14
1/2 PA. The internals to the newer 9" QC appear to be 16 PD, 14 1/2.


Good luck on your restoration.

John



--- In southbendlathe@..., "disco_elvis" <wswells@e...>
wrote:

The photo on the home page shows a 1920 head stock, with the same
handle type on the reverse gears as the 9" I am trying to bring back
to life. A member on another group sent a copy of the July 1923
catalog 81, in it, was a description of my 1922 Modle 25A which
stated it had the "new, improved reverse gears". The gears have 22
teeth. Can anyone help me find a replacement gear, or a description
of the gear PA? do the 10" gears interchange? I bought a later 9"
tumbler with cast handle and it will not work. I also need a
horizontal drive over-center frame and base if anyone has one.
I have the 6 speed counter drive, but the frame and base are of the
wrong type for bench mounting.

Thanks,
Steve Wells
swells@e...


Re: Alignment question

Kevin Gregg
 

Something is definitely worn. I was looking at it
last night and found that I can feel a lot of play in
both the handwheel and the ram - I guess I'll be
taking it apart for further inspection.

-Kevin




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1922 9" Reverse tumbler gear

Steve Wells
 

The photo on the home page shows a 1920 head stock, with the same
handle type on the reverse gears as the 9" I am trying to bring back
to life. A member on another group sent a copy of the July 1923
catalog 81, in it, was a description of my 1922 Modle 25A which
stated it had the "new, improved reverse gears". The gears have 22
teeth. Can anyone help me find a replacement gear, or a description
of the gear PA? do the 10" gears interchange? I bought a later 9"
tumbler with cast handle and it will not work. I also need a
horizontal drive over-center frame and base if anyone has one.
I have the 6 speed counter drive, but the frame and base are of the
wrong type for bench mounting.

Thanks,
Steve Wells
swells@...


Re: Machine Oil

BOB WRIGHT
 

www.mcmaster.com Spindle,way,teflon grease
--- In southbendlathe@..., "trozzo51" <fetdc@c...> wrote:

Can anyone give me a source to buy Lathe oil? Seems ther is 3
types
for Headstock, gearbox and mating surfaces.


Machine Oil

trozzo51 <fetdc@...>
 

Can anyone give me a source to buy Lathe oil? Seems ther is 3 types
for Headstock, gearbox and mating surfaces.


9" south bend for sale in Oklahoma

rkw1969 <rwilliams113@...>
 

Got a 9" southbend lathe for sale in El Reno,Oklahoma. Has the
original 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck. Has a butt load of gears, couple of
lathe dogs and the plate. Has the original lantern tool post and one i
made. Lathe bed is the short one and comes with a table. Really good
condition. Does have some marks on the ways at the very end where the
previous owner would set the tailstock on a little too hard. original
motor. e mail me at rwilliams1132cox.net. asking $1100.00 for it and
all the tooling. will answer e mails in the moring.


Apron oilers question

James Peverill <jamespev@...>
 

I took the apron apart on my 13", and unfortunately most of the oil wicks were pretty much destroyed. They were a bit weaker than the hard tar like residue they were embedded in...

I want to make sure I get the wicks back in the right places, but I don't really have any reference info that describes them. I have the south bend parts manual, but it doesn't show the wicks. Does anyone have any diagrams on how the wicks are installed in the apron?

Some of them are pretty obvious, but a few are a bit more arcane. One of them appeared to loop around the power feed worm drive screw, but it was totally disintegrated.

Any hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

james


Re: power feed

william B. Mispel
 

Could be your lucky day. I happen to have one.
For a 9" Sb.
Bruce

At 03:18 AM 1/21/2005 +0000, you wrote:


Webb,
thanks so much. I soaked everything in WD40, reinstalled the worm gear and the screw
came right out. Previously I had been jamming pieces of wood in to stop the assembly
rotating. Reinstalling the worm gear was the magic trick.

>You may have to reinstall the worm and its lock ring in order to stop the worm gear,
clutch and shaft assembly  from turning when unscrewing the screw.  Also you will have to
tighten the star clutch knob too.  that should lock the shaft so that you can get the screw
out.

I am going to try and build up the missing material on the half nut handle with epoxy, and
hope that that works. Theoretically there should never be any great pressure on the part,
so I might be lucky (I dread to find out how much a new part would be, and I could wait
forever to get one on eBay at a reasonable price).

Thanks again,
Nick





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Re: power feed

modpodd <nick@...>
 

Webb,
thanks so much. I soaked everything in WD40, reinstalled the worm gear and the screw
came right out. Previously I had been jamming pieces of wood in to stop the assembly
rotating. Reinstalling the worm gear was the magic trick.

You may have to reinstall the worm and its lock ring in order to stop the worm gear,
clutch and shaft assembly from turning when unscrewing the screw. Also you will have to
tighten the star clutch knob too. that should lock the shaft so that you can get the screw
out.

I am going to try and build up the missing material on the half nut handle with epoxy, and
hope that that works. Theoretically there should never be any great pressure on the part,
so I might be lucky (I dread to find out how much a new part would be, and I could wait
forever to get one on eBay at a reasonable price).

Thanks again,
Nick


Re: Alignment question

eng4turns
 

Guy has pinpointed one of the possible problems. The other problem
is wear on the tailstock spindle and/or tailstock spindle bore.
Check for this by applying a little bit of drag on the tailstock lock
and see if it loosens up or gets tighter when you run the spindle in
or out. My 13" is loose at the front of the spindle and tight at the
back, indicating that the spindle wear has occurred near the front-
sort of what you'd expect with an old machine. Solution: Make (or
buy) a new spindle to fit the bore.

For tailstock spindle bore uneven wear, use a bore gauge or a go/no
go test bar.

I don't know what the original specs for spindle to bore diametral
clearance were, but I suspect it should not be more than 5/10s? and
could be much tighter since the thing doesn't rotate and heat up.

Temporarily, I guess you could use some 5/10s shim in the small gap
between the tailstock spindle bore and the tailstock spindle (top or
bottom or side, whichever is the culprit), to take up the wear slack
so that when you tighten it up, your DTI movement is acceptable.

Ultimately, when you run old gear, you have to develop work-arounds.

Ed in Florida

--- In southbendlathe@..., "carbure2003" <guycad@n...>
wrote:


In your case I suspect it is uneven wear between the tailstock and
the bed.


Guy Cadrin


--- In southbendlathe@..., Kevin Gregg <mrcodewiz@y...>
wrote:
I have been having this ongoing struggle to align my
lathe and the question on the strange taper made me
think of something.

I put a dial indicator on the tailstock when I was
measuring the taper so I could move it back and forth
to get it centered exactly.

Depending on how tightly I turned the tailstock lock,
I could potentially have .001 to .003 of a difference
in its location (all of these degrees of tightening
being 'tight enough' in my opinion). This is fine
while I'm doing the taper measurement because I know
what my previous cut did, but how do I know when to
stop tightening when I'm just throwing a new piece of
stock in there?

-Kevin

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Re: Alignment question

BOB WRIGHT
 

Or it could be slop around the tailstock barrel as well. There could
easily be a couple thou there. I really notice the movement when i am
center drilling a piece. I raised my tailstock .004 with a shim
between the tailstock base and top half, what a difference. That will
work until i order a new base from Rose...Bob

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