Date   

Re: Storage of Lathe

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Thanks all for the storage tips. Good idea about the bulb, never
thought of that although I used to do that for my welding rods and
it's actually how I dry my beef jerky now!

Regards,

Bruce
A scrap refrigerator would have insulation and be a decent seal for
such a storage unit.

I've seem them used as mini-storage sheds and even pick-up tool boxes.

Only problem is checking if the bulb goes out when you close the
door.....


Re: Storage of Lathe - Jerkey

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Thanks all for the storage tips. Good idea about the bulb, never
thought of that although I used to do that for my welding rods and
it's actually how I dry my beef jerky now!

Regards,

Bruce

Gotta give us a how-to on making the Jerkey !


Re: Storage of Lathe

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

If it were me, I would use the cosmoline. Be liberal with coating
it, and you will sleep easy for the next year

Or, the next 5-10-15-50 ? years ? Generations down the line will
love your efforts. I think there are still WW-II things popping up
that were stored in the stuff.


Dave


Re: Storage of Lathe

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.
WD-40 is a possible candidate.

WD-40 will coat, and protect the metal surfaces for awhile. 12
months on the outside. 6 months is about where the life is
beginning to be in question.

BUT.... WD-40 is like your tonsils. when it goes bad, it doesn't
just stop working, it goes over to the other side. it cleans the
other oils off so when the WD-40 expires, there is no other
protectant.

There are a LOT of people who have horror stories of having Unckle
Fred's micromenter found in his basement from 5 years ago, still
perfect, cleaned with WD-40, then rusted badly in 6 months....

Boeshield or some similar has a wax in it and is designed for much
longer storeage. It leaves a waxy film for long term protection.

I use grease in my basement on all metal surfaces. I use WD-40 for
hinges and lubrication, but have some old grease the at liquified and
am now using that with Q-tips when I can.

Dave


Re: Storage of Lathe

kc1fp
 

McMasters sells it also, heat it up to make it flow easier. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

If it were me, I would use the cosmoline. Be liberal with coating
it, and you will sleep easy for the next year without having to check
up on it.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off
of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something
like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to
type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce


Re: Chuck removal

kc1fp
 

Piet, We have all probably locked the gears without breaking teeth,
however, breaking teeth is easy to do with that method. A reliable
method that works is to use a strap wrench on the pulley sheave and
place a piece of wood across the jaws of the chuck and resting on the
ways. The thread is right handed. Also place a piece of wood on the
ways under the chuck, droping the chuck can damage the ways or your
fingers that get caught between them, don't ask how I know.

What usually causes the threads to jamb up is metal chips (swarf)
caught in the threads and swaged into the thread surface. I scraped
the threads on my chuck that was tight with an internal thread chasing
file and was surprized at the amount of unseen crap that came out. The
oil discolors things making it hard to see. Sometimes you can clean
the threads up with a pointed probe.

A threaded chuck should thread all the way to the shoulder on the
spindle, by hand without binding. The threads should be clean and
oiled with spindle oil, nothing else, no anti-siezing junk. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "pietbutter" <butter@s...> wrote:

Hi team,

just a quick question.

How do I remove a chuck and backplate from he spindle. Is there any
means of locking the spindle?? Hate to do it by using the gears as I
can picture broken teeth everywhere.

Just to be sure, the thread is a RH type and not an LH one isn't it??

Thanking you in advance on your reply.

Best regards,

Piet Butter
"The Flying Dutchman'


Re: Storage of Lathe

chris_c_willis <williscebay@...>
 

If it were me, I would use the cosmoline. Be liberal with coating
it, and you will sleep easy for the next year without having to check
up on it.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off
of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something
like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to
type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce


Re: 9" South Bend plunger style detent

RichD <cmsteam@...>
 

Bill,
this is the one I did on mine.
Get a 10K rev bracket, with or without gears, to start.
Rich, Atlanta

oldmachinenut wrote:


Does anyone have or know where I could find a drawing of the detent
plate to install the plunger style reverse lever on an older 9" South
Bend? I have seen posts about a drawing but I have not been able to
find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
Bill Schaefer


9" South Bend plunger style detent

oldmachinenut
 

Does anyone have or know where I could find a drawing of the detent
plate to install the plunger style reverse lever on an older 9" South
Bend? I have seen posts about a drawing but I have not been able to
find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thank You
Bill Schaefer


Re: Chuck removal

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

HTRAL suggests using a block of wood resting on the
ways and then tugging on the belt.

Rick

--- spradlins <spradlins@prodigy.net> wrote:

Piet. Simplest way I know is pull up your backgear
lever and gently bump the chuck , it should start
then unscrew by hand. Brass bar through the jaws
sideways will work for most stubborn chucks .
Without getting violent I dont think you have to
worrie about the gears. Never seen anything except
right hand threads unless it is a cam lock chuck
which would be rather new and have a second set of
square drives behind the chuck.
Good Luck
Grumpy
----- Original Message -----
From: pietbutter
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:02 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Chuck removal



Hi team,

just a quick question.

How do I remove a chuck and backplate from he
spindle. Is there any
means of locking the spindle?? Hate to do it by
using the gears as I
can picture broken teeth everywhere.

Just to be sure, the thread is a RH type and not
an LH one isn't it??

Thanking you in advance on your reply.

Best regards,

Piet Butter
"The Flying Dutchman'





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Re: Chuck removal

bdmail <bdmail@...>
 

Can you lock register pins of some sort on the headstock?  My lathe has a pin and 60 holes in the side of the headstock.


Bernie





From: pietbutter
Reply-To: southbendlathe@...
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 16:02:09 +0000
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: [southbendlathe] Chuck  removal



Hi team,

just a quick question.

How do I remove a chuck and backplate from he spindle. Is there any
means of locking the spindle?? Hate to do it by using the gears as I
can picture broken teeth everywhere.

Just to be sure, the thread is a RH type and not an LH one isn't it??

Thanking you in advance on your reply.

Best regards,

Piet Butter
"The Flying Dutchman'





--
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More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
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Re: Chuck removal

spradlins
 

Piet.   Simplest way I know is pull up your backgear lever and gently bump the chuck , it should start then unscrew by hand.  Brass bar through the jaws sideways will work for most stubborn chucks .   Without getting violent I dont think you have to worrie about the gears.  Never seen anything except right hand threads unless it is a cam lock chuck which would be rather new and have a second set of square drives behind the chuck.
Good Luck
Grumpy

----- Original Message -----
From: pietbutter
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:02 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Chuck removal


Hi team,

just a quick question.

How do I remove a chuck and backplate from he spindle. Is there any
means of locking the spindle?? Hate to do it by using the gears as I
can picture broken teeth everywhere.

Just to be sure, the thread is a RH type and not an LH one isn't it??

Thanking you in advance on your reply.

Best regards,

Piet Butter
"The Flying Dutchman'





--
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More pix:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SouthBendLathePix/
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FAQ: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe/files/SouthBendLatheFAQ.html
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Chuck removal

pietbutter <butter@...>
 

Hi team,

just a quick question.

How do I remove a chuck and backplate from he spindle. Is there any
means of locking the spindle?? Hate to do it by using the gears as I
can picture broken teeth everywhere.

Just to be sure, the thread is a RH type and not an LH one isn't it??

Thanking you in advance on your reply.

Best regards,

Piet Butter
"The Flying Dutchman'


Re: Storage of Lathe

Bruce Anderson <bdahome@...>
 

Thanks all for the storage tips. Good idea about the bulb, never thought of that although I used to do that for my welding rods and it's actually how I dry my beef jerky now!
 
Regards,
 
Bruce
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: January 16, 2005 10:58 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Storage of Lathe


You might consider putting a low wattage lamp or other heat source
under the tarp to keep it warmer under the tarp than outside. 

Glen Reeser

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> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .





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Re: Storage of Lathe

Rob Peterson
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off
of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something
like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to
type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce
I'd think that a bucket full of motor oil and some plastic bags
would work here. Dunk (literally) the parts in the bucket of oil
and toss into heavy plastic bag. Get rid of the air (shop vac) and
tie the bag closed and insert in another plastic bag for extra
protection. The oil will coat every surface and crevice and the
plastic will keep out moisture. For short term storage, this should
work fine. 2 qrts of oil should do just about everything.

Cleanup will be easy. Just some mineral spirits and a small brush.

Rob P.


Re: Storage of Lathe

bkfan2001 <bkfan2001@...>
 

Hi Bruce,

Use a good Chassis grease (quite similar to cosmoline used by the
gov't to rust proof items for storage) on ALL the unpainted parts.
The grease I am speaking of is the thick, stringy stuff that is
terribly messy. This stuff won't melt off during the summer heat.
What you are trying to do is to block the air from staying in
contact with the metal. Rust is an oxide, as such, cut off its
supply of oxygen and you kill the growth of rust. Also don't sit
directly on the ground or just on top of some boards. Moisture can
come up from underneath and corrode your lathe. Make sure to put a
good vapor barrier, Ie. some heavy plastic sheeting under it to keep
ground moisture from damaging it. Also make sure that the covering
does not seal of your lathe from the outside air completely. You
should have some airflow throught there to dry out any condensation
that might occur. Last but not least, keep an eye on it. When the
weather is good, uncover it and check to see if there is anything
happening. "An oz of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Best Regards
BK



--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Anderson"
<bdahome@c...> wrote:
Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off
of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something
like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to
type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce


Re: Storage of Lathe

gorvil
 

You might consider putting a low wattage lamp or other heat source
under the tarp to keep it warmer under the tarp than outside.

Glen Reeser

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Re: Storage of Lathe

bdmail <bdmail@...>
 

It has to be sealed all around, otherwise the condensation everynight will rust it where you cannot see.....every little crack and crevace....

AND LOTS OF OIL EVERYWHERE

Light stuff where you can't get to and haevy sticky suff where you can.

Keep checking it and spraying it.

Bernie




From: Bruce Anderson
Reply-To: southbendlathe@...
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 13:04:39 -0500
To: southbendlathe@...
Subject: [southbendlathe] Storage of Lathe


Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10 Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move.  Just to the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce




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welcome and some reaming

Ina Ron Lippard Renaissance Reproductions <renrepro@...>
 

Dear List,
I have been out of touch via week II of the flu.To sick to die,gotta get better first!Alf, welcome.You will find a few of us work sawdust as well as metal and stone.About reaming.When I was at the cog we would drill bore and lap to pin fit.The work was a little larger then you will be encountering,but the idea is the same.Long ago they didn't have real good tooling,just real good men that took their time with primitive tools.For small work,get screw machine drills.Buy a good American HSS brand.Make a set of 'reamers' by re-grinding the ends to cut like an end mill.Their short length gives more beef in tight places.Make up a kit with a rough drill,bore drill,and hone.This is a good way of saving time for those most frequently used sizes.Most reaming is for the last few thousandths.Never more then .005 IMHO.JP may shed some light on this.Small stub boring bars can be made from good drill blank HSS.A set is easy to make.For a typical hole I do the following: Hole dia. is .125 finished. Rough drill@ .0115, bore with bar or em-type drill .122.Finish hone with split honing bar and 180-grit with light machine oil.The first 2 tools give a round,straight hole.The hone is for finish and final size.Just remember to split the work up so the last 2 tools don't have much work to do.Get some brass and a few 4-40 set screws.Drill and tap each bar-end after you have turned them to a size just under a hole size.Then go back and either use a slitting saw or jewelers fret saw.Carefully saw down about an inch or so.Thus allowing for adjustment as the hone wears.Reamers are nice to have.They are fast and leave a clean hole.They are a real pain to sharpen.I use hones.They are slower,but the fit is exact.I also cheat by using 600 grit for a air-tight fit.Of course we all know I'm nuts too!Now ask yourself something.How did the watch-makers of the 1800's ream holes they could barely see?I'll shut-up now,time for drugs anyway.
regards, Ron whenever I feel blue I just breath!


Re: Storage of Lathe

Tim Ebel <tebel@...>
 

I had that same problem with the weather last week. And it was the last time!! I went and built a wall dividing my garage in half. Insulated the ceiling, walls. I am going to keep it at a steady 45 degrees from now one.
Tim

----- Original Message -----
From: "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT" <aametalmaster@yahoo.com>
To: <southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 4:51 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: Storage of Lathe




I would not use WD40 for long term storage but i do spray down
everytime i use my lathe. Every item that is polished metal gets a
coating. WD40 was a life saver a few days ago when the outside temp
(68) rose so fast everything in my shop had water on it. I quickly
sprayed everything with WD40. It left a creamy water mixture on the
metal then the water evaporiated and i had zero rust on the coated
parts. The uncoated parts rusted the next day. So that $2 can was
worth every penny...Bob
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Marshall Smith" <nwbm@q...>
wrote:
WD40 will rust. Never use it for lubrication or rust prevention. I
think the idea of a lean to is a plus. This needs to breath so don't
wrap it up so tight that it sweats. Sweating is a greater danger than
rain. Might not hurt to put some desiccant (not sure of the spelling)
with it too.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Anderson
To: southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 10:04 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Storage of Lathe


Just as I was getting going cleaning and rebuilding a Heavy 10
Toolroom lathe on an under drive cabinet, we need to move. Just to
the next town, but a smaller house yet plenty of room to build a
bigger shop!!!

Need to store the lathe for maybe a year and the only room I have
without tripping over it is outside.

It is partially disassembled, headstock, tailstock, apron all off
of it.

Can I pretty safely just soak it with WD- 40 or LPS or something
like that and keep it covered with a tarp? I could build a lean-to
type thing on the side of a shed if that would help.

Thanks for any advice.

Bruce




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tml
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