Date   

Re: MLA Faceplate

BOB WRIGHT
 

The MLA face plates are cored meaning there is an unfinished groove
in the casting. You would need to machine away about 3/8" of an inch
to get a smooth front. Which is fine if there is enough meat in the
rear. I would like a price on your Dura-Bar how much for a chunk 2"
thick 9" od...Bob

http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/S-5879.html

Consists of a Faceplate CASTING, unfinished, as well as drawings and
machining instructions. The photo shows T-Slots, but you certainly
would
not have to include them if you just wanted a flat surface. MLA
does not
provide finished parts.

If you want a chunk of iron to make into a faceplate, nothing beats
Dura-Bar
continuous cast iron. Machines like 12L14, and extremely
homogenous cross
section. If there is desire, we can provide prices for slugs.


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Re: Old 16" SouthBend lathe

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

Yes it is.

Rick

--- makinsmoke40 <MAKINSMOKE@...> wrote:


Ain't it a kick owning a machine that was made
before your father was
born?







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Re: Moving the OLD SB 16"

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

I was planning on using my digital camera so I can
record how it came apart and the moving event as well.


I have a large memory card installed so I can document
it thoughly.

Rick

--- makinsmoke40 <MAKINSMOKE@...> wrote:


--- In southbendlathe@..., Tom Bassi
<tjbassi@o...> wrote:

Tom, My thoughts exactly. Jeff suggested taking a
disposable camera
as well, and some baggies. The bed comes off pretty
easy as well, but
as you say, with what you have listed he is going to
get the weight
off the top and down pretty quickly.
Briamn






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Re: Old 16" SouthBend lathe

makinsmoke40
 

Ain't it a kick owning a machine that was made before your father was
born?


MLA Faceplate

Scott S. Logan <ssl@...>
 

There seems to be some misunderstanding about the Faceplate KIT sold by
Metal Lathe Accessories.

The kit shown at:

http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/S-5879.html

Consists of a Faceplate CASTING, unfinished, as well as drawings and
machining instructions. The photo shows T-Slots, but you certainly would
not have to include them if you just wanted a flat surface. MLA does not
provide finished parts.

If you want a chunk of iron to make into a faceplate, nothing beats Dura-Bar
continuous cast iron. Machines like 12L14, and extremely homogenous cross
section. If there is desire, we can provide prices for slugs.


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Re: Moving the OLD SB 16"

makinsmoke40
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., Tom Bassi <tjbassi@o...> wrote:

Tom, My thoughts exactly. Jeff suggested taking a disposable camera
as well, and some baggies. The bed comes off pretty easy as well, but
as you say, with what you have listed he is going to get the weight
off the top and down pretty quickly.
Briamn


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer (REPLY) #2mt

Thomas G Brandl
 

Chris,
I wouldn't worry about .003 Quill movenent. When you use the lock
down on the quill, it will push it to one side.
Tom
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Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer (REPLY) #2mt

chris_c_willis <williscebay@...>
 

Thanks to all who responded to my message. This message board is
truly a great help to a newbie. I ordered a hand reamer, and some
marking dye from Enco this morning.

Last night I mounted the work into the lathe with the tailstock quill
fully extended. While pushing on the work, I measured the travel of
the tailstock quill and the live center.

The Tailstock quill moved less than .003
The live center moved about .010
(I was pushing pretty hard when measuring)

I have not been able to make chips without alot of chatter.
Hopefully this is will fix the problem, and I can go onto learning.


--- In southbendlathe@..., "Dave Mucha" <dave_mucha@y...>
wrote:

--- In southbendlathe@..., "REBEL"
<bill_collins14@y...>
wrote:

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer
will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.
When I did my drill press, the internal burrs were pretty hard.

I found that taking one good cut was enough and that there was no
noticable increase in how deep the other tooling went.

Dave


Re: 9" Face plate blanks

dirigo28 <dirigo28@...>
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"
<aametalmaster@y...> wrote:

Yes and it is a nice one, but I don't want the t-slots.
I don't know what you have against t-slots. They have come
in handy over the years, including those tapped holes.

Ed P


Heavy 10" Closer Tubes

rigrac <rfitzpatrick4@...>
 

If anyone on the group is looking for a used Heavy 10" Handwheel Closer Tube to effect repairs on one of their own Closers where the threads have been stripped I have a total of 5 that I have just replaced with new OEM tubes. These five used tubes have had repairs done on them by welding and in one case pinning on a repaired end with good threads. $10 plus shipping and its yours. Contact me off group if interested.
 
 
Thanks--Ron


Old 16" SouthBend lathe

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

I called LeBondUSA this morning and the 16" lathe was
made on May 6, 1916 and shipped to Baird Machine Co.

Its a Model 40. According to Marty they are not sure
if the change gears that they have will work with a
machine that old and they do not have manuals.

Anyone happen to have a parts&#92;service manual for a 40?

Thanks,
Rick




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Re: 9" Face plate blanks

Scott S. Logan <ssl@...>
 

On Tuesday, December 21, 2004 7:08 AM, BOB & CINDY WRIGHT
<mailto:aametalmaster@...> wrote:

Yes and it is a nice one, but i don't want the t slots. If they made
a flat faced one i would send in my check today...Bob --- In
Get your checkbook out.

The Faceplate shown at:

http://tinyurl.com/4q96k

Is a kit including a casting, drawings and machining instructions.

Metal Lathe Accessories (Andy Lofquist) will probably be at Cabin Fever and
NAMES. I know he usually sells out all the sets he brings, so if you want
something, contact him in advance, and you can probably save shipping costs
that way.


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Logan Actuator Co. Fax +1 (815) 943-6755
550 Chippewa Rd Email ssl@...
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USA


Re: 9" Face plate blanks

BOB WRIGHT
 

Yes and it is a nice one, but i don't want the t slots. If they made
a flat faced one i would send in my check today...Bob
--- In southbendlathe@..., "dirigo28" <dirigo28@y...>
wrote:



Keep in mind, MLA sells a very nice 8 1/2" faceplate for $45.00.

http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/index.html

Ed P


some notes

Ina Ron Lippard Renaissance Reproductions <renrepro@...>
 

Been following the threads so to speak.The crossfeed screw topic makes me wonder why some owners of worn screws don't just make a new one,provided they have thread cutting ability.Most lathes are large enough to make their own c/f screws.If you make a careful drawing of the piece noting bore diameters.Make the piece from air hard keeping in mind the change in size after hardening.I would leave small radii at all shoulders.Cleaning up the piece after hardening shouldn't be too difficult if you use air hard.The scale is minimal compared to oil hard.By making your own part you can change some diameters that have changed due to wear.Then use the finished piece as a gage for the c/f nut.As for thin wall short runs,try a pot chuck.These are your basic throwaway collets that are bored in the chuck.A sharp hack saw carefully splitting the thin shell will allow the aircraft clamp to easily tighten around the piece.These chucks work under a lot of conditions where the machine is old and worn.A piece of pipe held in any 3-jaw chuck can be bored to .001 over size thus allowing the piece to slip-fit.The down side is their limited use with large parts.For this I use either soft-jaws,bored jigs,and inside plugs to grip on.If a part seems to wobble in a 3 or 4-jaw chuck check for worn chuck ends.Most wear happens where the part is first introduced to the chuck.It also is where most guys hold very thin or short work.American Machinist circa 1900 has an article showing how any set of 3 or 4-jaw chucks can be honed in any shop.Another wear site is in the jaw to chuck slide.Unless it's a brand new chuck some wear can cause the jaw to cock due to backlash.I think grinding or honing under pressure as previously mentioned would remedy this problem.I'll describe the process if it is not already in the ark.
regards,Ron


Re: Moving the OLD SB 16"

tj_bassi
 

Rick,

A good thought might be to bring a small assortment of wrenches and sockets, a good flat screwdriver, a dozen of those latex 'surgeons' gloves, some old newspaper, and a few milk crates. In just a few minutes you can remove the motor assy from the headstock, the headstock from the bed......slide the tailstock off (wipe the ways down and lightly oil first)...then remove the rear leadscrew bearing, loosen the back side carriage bolts and run the carriage right off of the bed. Replace the leadscrew bearing. Put the items in the crates and wad with some old newspaper to protect. In all reality the motor and carriage are quite big but now you've reduced the machines' weight by almost a third and its no longer so top heavy. The bed will still need to be securely lashed down in whatever vehicle you bring....dont run any straps or chains over the ways unless you protect with wood blocking.
I've moved two big machines like this and it worked well. You will need a helper....biggest one you can find :)

Tj

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick v100" <rickv100@...>
To: <southbendlathe@...>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 7:19 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Moving the OLD SB 16"



Fellow members,

I won the auction for the SB 16" that James had
offered here earlier. I am new to machining so I have
some questions at first about moving this lathe.

According to the 1918 Catalog the 16" lathe runs
around 1800 lbs. My idea is to rent a moving van with
a lift gate to move the lathe.

Question. Anyone happen to know the lift capacity of a
lift gate?

Anyone use furniture dollies or similar to move a
lathe?

To place the lathe on the dollies I was thinking of
using either a jack or an engine hoist to lift it onto
the dollies.

Looking for as many suggestions as possible from
people with experience moving these items.

Thanks,
Rick

PS I already have a copy of HTRAL and I have been
actively rereading it.


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Re: Moving the OLD SB 16"

hoffmeyer <hmshop@hotmail.com>
 

Lift gate capacity:
Call the local dealer that makes the truck. The folks who rent it may
not (as I have observed in the past) have any idea. I rented a 24" U-
hall Ford and the gate easily handled a 1500 pound DoAll.
Please note that when you raise the gate off the ground the gate will
FIRST move to the REAR and then up. Be sure your load is completely
clear of the gate before moving it off the ground.
Furniture dollies:
Check the weight capacity, remember the large the whjeel the faster
the dolly will go.
I suggest (if possible) attaching two 4x4 or 4x6 under the lathe and
then roll it around with 1" diamete steel pipes. This is how I have
been doing it for quite a number of years.
If you do lift the lathe from overhead consider lifting it a two
points so as not to "flex" the bed.

I live in Northern VA and if you are near by could offer addd help. A
Johnson Bar (Long HEAVY wood handle with a metal toung and 2 steel
wheels attached, is VERY helpful.
Go slow, use mechanical advantage NOT muscle power. No more than 3
people shoudl be present. More than that and you end up with lots
of "great" ideas....too many cooks etc etc.
Eric


--- In southbendlathe@..., Rick v100 <rickv100@y...>
wrote:
Fellow members,

I won the auction for the SB 16" that James had
offered here earlier. I am new to machining so I have
some questions at first about moving this lathe.

According to the 1918 Catalog the 16" lathe runs
around 1800 lbs. My idea is to rent a moving van with
a lift gate to move the lathe.

Question. Anyone happen to know the lift capacity of a
lift gate?

Anyone use furniture dollies or similar to move a
lathe?

To place the lathe on the dollies I was thinking of
using either a jack or an engine hoist to lift it onto
the dollies.

Looking for as many suggestions as possible from
people with experience moving these items.

Thanks,
Rick

PS I already have a copy of HTRAL and I have been
actively rereading it.


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Re: 9" Face plate blanks

dirigo28 <dirigo28@...>
 

Keep in mind, MLA sells a very nice 8 1/2" faceplate for $45.00.

http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/index.html

Ed P


Moving the OLD SB 16"

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

Fellow members,

I won the auction for the SB 16" that James had
offered here earlier. I am new to machining so I have
some questions at first about moving this lathe.

According to the 1918 Catalog the 16" lathe runs
around 1800 lbs. My idea is to rent a moving van with
a lift gate to move the lathe.

Question. Anyone happen to know the lift capacity of a
lift gate?

Anyone use furniture dollies or similar to move a
lathe?

To place the lathe on the dollies I was thinking of
using either a jack or an engine hoist to lift it onto
the dollies.

Looking for as many suggestions as possible from
people with experience moving these items.

Thanks,
Rick

PS I already have a copy of HTRAL and I have been
actively rereading it.


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Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "REBEL" <bill_collins14@y...>
wrote:

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer
will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.
When I did my drill press, the internal burrs were pretty hard.

I found that taking one good cut was enough and that there was no
noticable increase in how deep the other tooling went.

Dave


Heavy 10" Bull Gear with Pin

dann1938 <dann1938@...>
 

I have a very good bull gear with the pin for heavy 10". If
interested, please contact me off board.
Thanks, Dann

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