Date   

Moving the OLD SB 16"

Rick v100 <rickv100@...>
 

Fellow members,

I won the auction for the SB 16" that James had
offered here earlier. I am new to machining so I have
some questions at first about moving this lathe.

According to the 1918 Catalog the 16" lathe runs
around 1800 lbs. My idea is to rent a moving van with
a lift gate to move the lathe.

Question. Anyone happen to know the lift capacity of a
lift gate?

Anyone use furniture dollies or similar to move a
lathe?

To place the lathe on the dollies I was thinking of
using either a jack or an engine hoist to lift it onto
the dollies.

Looking for as many suggestions as possible from
people with experience moving these items.

Thanks,
Rick

PS I already have a copy of HTRAL and I have been
actively rereading it.


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Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "REBEL" <bill_collins14@y...>
wrote:

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer
will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.
When I did my drill press, the internal burrs were pretty hard.

I found that taking one good cut was enough and that there was no
noticable increase in how deep the other tooling went.

Dave


Heavy 10" Bull Gear with Pin

dann1938 <dann1938@...>
 

I have a very good bull gear with the pin for heavy 10". If
interested, please contact me off board.
Thanks, Dann


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

REBEL <bill_collins14@...>
 

I agree.More than likely just simple hand pressure with a reamer will
clean up the MT bore.

GB
Bill C.


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

kc1fp
 

Hi Chris,

Now is the time to get old fashioned. Use the reamer with a hand
wrench, like a tee handle tap wrench to clean out any burrs or high
spots. Use a known good #2MT something and some markym dye to find how
you are progressing. It is too easy to cut too much with a machine
feed, do it by hand and take your time.

You can align the headstock to the tail stock when you are done. Chuck
up a piece of round stock and machine a point on the end and leave it
in the chuck. Then align the tailstock to it with a center in the
tailstock. I am assuming that the lathe has been checked for level
before this alignment procedure is done.

JP

--- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

JohnW <John.Walker@...>
 

Chris

Mount your dial indicator on a faceplate or chuck. If you have a
good MT arbor mount it in the tailstock and take readings on it as
you rotate the headstock chuck by hand. Adjust the tailstock with
shims and the adjusting screws to get a consistent reading at the top
and both sides of the arbor. This will get the arbor end of the
quill lined up but won't garantee that the quill itself is
horizontal. Fully extend the quill and with the test dial mounted on
the xslide check the top of thw quill along its length and shim as
necessary. You might have to repeat the operation a few times to get
everything lined up.

You should be able to hand feed the reamer. Unless the socket is in
really poor shape the reamer will line its self up. You should be
only taking a skim cut anyway.


Good luck.

John

--- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis"
<williscebay@h...> wrote:

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my
(Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the
tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly.
I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close
to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and
doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor
(yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised,
I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco
sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock
and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have
a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


Re: 9" Face plate blanks

pjwizr_1999 <pjwizr_1999@...>
 

Thanks for the info,

Count me in as interested. I would like to see faceplate blanks,
steadyrest, cathead, traveling steady, toolpost mods, tailstock
specialties ( die holder, live tail, thru-hole types, etc.)etc. maybe
we could get a local ( groupwise that is) to do the basic machining
of the bases and clamps for a batch so that those without a mill or
shaper could enjoy the wealth also. I can do some clamps but probably
not the bases.



If you are thinking there will be a good price break for a volume
order I would like to get on the list for one. If, like you say,
they
charge by the pound then it won't make any difference. I would
still
like to know what they will run.


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

Dave Mucha
 

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have
a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.

The rotating center (slang is live-center) is absolutly fixed on
axis. As far as the work goes, it would not see any difference
between a solid and rotation center.

The ball bearings are not there to allow for any mis-alignment.

You really need to get the tailstock aligned properly.

As for the hand reamer, it should work.

A #2, MT finishing reamer would cost about $30.00 from a supplier. I
had bought one a few years ago and offered to pass it around the
7x10minilathe group, but it got lost and never made it home.

I too would like to use one to clean up a tailstock.

Depending on the part, I might make a holder-wrench for the tailstock
sleeve, chuck the reamer in the 3-jaw and slide the sleeve over the
reamer. Then use the carriage to put some feed pressure on it and
rotate the spindle by hand.

Dave


Re: Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

Thomas G Brandl
 

Chris,
I think first you need to determine where the movement in the live
center/tail stock is. If its between the live center and the quill, then
yes you will need to ream it. Also, check between the quill and the
tailstock housing. I wouldn't use a chuck to align the reamer. Or if you
do, turn the taper/angle on a piece of steel rod and don't remove it from
the chuck. If you have collets, then that will hold a piece of round stock
to be turned also. Or hold a center with a straight body. Then you can
check the alignment by eye. I would roughly align by eye, then use a test
bar and a dial indicator. Both from the side and from the top. You can also
use about a 12 inch piece of round stock and turn it between centers to see
the taper. Then adjust the tailstock to take out the taper. Only after you
have aligned the tailstock to the lathe would I ream it.
Tom


|---------+---------------------------->
| | chris_c_willis |
| | <williscebay@hotm|
| | ail.com> |
| | |
| | 12/20/2004 01:29 |
| | PM |
| | Please respond to|
| | southbendlathe |
| | |
|---------+---------------------------->
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| |
| To: southbendlathe@... |
| cc: |
| Subject: [southbendlathe] Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|






I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.






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Re: 9" Face plate blanks

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"
<aametalmaster@y...> wrote:

Dave,
Yep right up the street. I have a couple of buddys that work there.
I
am going there Weds my day off. They charge by the pound. I can
make
the patterns...Bob

Wood patterns ?

Shoulda asked what part of the country? Shipping could easly out-
price some stuff.

Ideas :

a fixed, clamp on carriage as the basis of a CNC clamp on fixture.

A channel for a CNC axis, probably 6" wide, by 10 inches long, by 1/2
thick with the legs of the channel 1/2 thick by 2 inches.

large dia steady rest for my 9"

Great.... now All I'll be thinking about all day is the
possibilities.....

Dave


Tailstock #2MT reamer revisited #2mt

chris_c_willis <williscebay@...>
 

I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.

Now for my question:

Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.

By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.


Re: 9" Face plate blanks

BOB WRIGHT
 

I have my bonus check coming, can't think of anything better to spend
it on. 1 a bigger lathe, 2 lots of steel for projects...Bob
--- In southbendlathe@..., "Marshall Smith" <nwbm@q...>
wrote:
Bob.................
If you are thinking there will be a good price break for a volume
order I would like to get on the list for one. If, like you say, they
charge by the pound then it won't make any difference. I would still
like to know what they will run.
Thanks
Marshall
----- Original Message -----
From: BOB & CINDY WRIGHT
To: southbendlathe@...
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 8:54 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: 9" Face plate blanks



Dave,
Yep right up the street. I have a couple of buddys that work
there. I
am going there Weds my day off. They charge by the pound. I can
make
the patterns...Bob
> Local Foundry ????
> Man that must be nice !
> What type of prices do they charge ?
> Dave





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Re: 9" Face plate blanks

Marshall Smith <nwbm@...>
 

Bob.................
If you are thinking there will be a good price break for a volume order I would like to get on the list for one. If, like you say, they charge by the pound then it won't make any difference. I would still like to know what they will run.
Thanks
Marshall

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 8:54 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: 9" Face plate blanks


Dave,
Yep right up the street. I have a couple of buddys that work there. I
am going there Weds my day off. They charge by the pound. I can make
the patterns...Bob
> Local Foundry ????
> Man that must be nice !
> What type of prices do they charge ?
> Dave





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Re: 9" Face plate blanks

BOB WRIGHT
 

Dave,
Yep right up the street. I have a couple of buddys that work there. I
am going there Weds my day off. They charge by the pound. I can make
the patterns...Bob

Local Foundry ????
Man that must be nice !
What type of prices do they charge ?
Dave


Re: 9" Face plate blanks

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"
<aametalmaster@y...> wrote:

Would anyone in the group be interested in 9" cast iron face plate
blanks? I am going down to my local foundry to see about a price.
Email me offline if interested..Bob aametalmaster@y...

Local Foundry ????

Man that must be nice !

What type of prices do they charge ?


Dave


Re: CNC

Dave Mucha
 

--- In southbendlathe@..., "A. G. Eckstein"
<a_eckstein@b...> wrote:
Bruce,
SheetCam is a program that will take a dxf (or hpgl plot file) and
convert
your various processes to g-code.
This program is layer based so if you have several holes that are
say 1/4"
diameter, you would put them on one layer, a pocket on another
layer and so on.
You have a list of tools (which is configurable) to select from to
complete
your tasks at hand.
The program is primarily designed to to milling/routing and plasma
cutting.

Details can be found at www.sheetcam.com and there is also a yahoo
group
for support.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sheetcam/

Another feature is the ability to select too offsets.

Dave


South Bend Small Bore Heavy 10"

Raymond Frenkel <rfrenkel@...>
 

Hi Ron,

I have a heavy 10 with a 1 7/8 – 8 spindle thread and a 1 inch through bore with a #3 MT. The table in the SB FAQ lists the specks for this type of spindle.

My lathe is a 3-½ bed with a slide gear and a one lever QC box. Catalog # 8199ZF and bed # 356RKR7.

Is this the info you are looking for?

Ray


Re: CNC

william B. Mispel
 

Thanks again,
  I will look into it.
Bruce


At 09:07 PM 12/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Bruce,
SheetCam is a program that will take a dxf (or hpgl plot file) and convert your various processes to g-code.
This program is layer based so if you have several holes that are say 1/4" diameter, you would put them on one layer, a pocket on another layer and so on.
You have a list of tools (which is configurable) to select from to complete your tasks at hand.
The program is primarily designed to to milling/routing and plasma cutting.

Details can be found at www.sheetcam.com and there is also a yahoo group for support.



 At 08:45 PM 12/19/2004, you wrote:
Thanks A.G.
Now what is sheetCAM?
Or should I ask , what does it do?
Bruce
At 03:20 PM 12/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Bruce,
While all the software listed is good, my personal preference is for TurboCNC as the controller software.
Version 4 which was recently put out is only $60 to register and it was originally designed to run a lathe!

You can download the full version of the software (no cripples) at www.dakeng.com and then if you join the TurboCNC group on yahoo, in the files section are the latest updates. registration gets you the source code so you can make your own modifications if you desire.

I use it in combination with SheetCam as my cam program and am extremely pleased.
Usual disclaimer.
Bubba

OLDER THAN DIRT
Country Bubba
(Actually the inventor of Country and Bubba)
In God We Trust

LaGrange, GA

http://bellsouthpwp.net/A/r/Arts_home_page/cnc/

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Re: South Bend Small Bore Heavy 10" ???

thomas8482002 <thomas8482002@...>
 

Ron I checked the bore in my S.B and it is the 1 1/16.Let me know
what you need and I will see if I can help you. All the numbers on
the latheare SN. 178095 with LQR on the back way UB103 The number on
the index plate is Qcg101. The lathe was bolted to a one inch plate
steel and as far as I can find ou always has been. Thomas


Re: South Bend Small Bore Heavy 10" ???

kc1fp
 

I think they reference Large bore and Standard. A letter "L" in the
serial number is for the large bore as I understand it. I don't think
the term small bore is used for this model. JP


--- In southbendlathe@..., "rigrac" <rfitzpatrick4@c...>
wrote:
Thomas:

Large Bore ( or as you say "standard" ) Heavy 10" has about an
1-7/16" Bore
while the Small Bore has I believe about an 1-1/16" Bore.


Ron



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