Re: Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa???
rchamberlain@...
Check eBay. I bought a 25' roll there for $70 with shipping.
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Resto Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: matchgrade2003 <fnfal5064@netscape.net> Date: Monday, June 28, 2004 3:32 pm Subject: [southbendlathe] Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa??? All I can find is a supplier in the UK.
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Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa???
matchgrade2003 <fnfal5064@...>
All I can find is a supplier in the UK.
--Thanks for any help---Adam
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new 10K pics
BOB WRIGHT
Hi guys, I just posted some new pics of my 10K mods in the South Bend
Lathe Pictures group under 10Kaametalmaster. Thanks..Bob
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Re: south bend 11 inch?
CalBoy101 <pt@...>
I had a South Bend 11" for many years and it was a great machine.
This one was made in the 30's and basically was like a big 9", with a backgeared head, quick change gear box, clutched power feed in both directions. I needed a larger lathe and sold the 11 and the buyer is very happy with it. If it looks like it has any life left in it at all, save it, its a great machine. Paul T.
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Re: small precision lathe
telescope@...
Hi
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I have a full set of 6k collets (actually lacking 2 of the 1/32 sizes) and working to 1/16 is no problem. It is the very small stuff that gives me fits. Frank
Hi Frank,
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Re: small precision lathe
william B. Mispel
I agree with Phillip.
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I have a 9" SBL. I have turned .062 often and on occasion less and have ground .015. I see no problem with a 10". Bruce
At 10:57 AM 6/28/2004 -0700, you wrote:
Hi Frank,
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Re: small precision lathe
P B
Hi Frank,
Have ever thought about getting a collet closer and a set of collets? I have a SBL with 16 inches of swing and still manage to work as small as 1/16 of an inch in diameter thanks to my collets. Although it would be a great excuse to buy another lathe, I think you would be much better off with a closer.
How does the rest of the group feel about this?
................Philip
telescope@... wrote: Hello:
Do you Yahoo!? Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone.
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Re: small precision lathe
telescope@...
Hello:
Can anyone on this group recommend a small precision screw-cutting lathe suitable for small instrument parts? I have a 10k that is cherry, but too big for little stuff. Is there a listserv for such a group? Thank you Frank
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Re: OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck
Tom <ORIONLX200@...>
Thank you Lee that was what I thought I would have to do too<g>
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Tom Munroe
HI TOM
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Re: OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck
lee
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <ORIONLX200@a...> wrote:
Hi All,used one of these before and would appreciate if someone could tell me how to properly set it up.I see the four adjusting screws on the side but do I need to loosen the back plate before doing the adjustments?Directions to a web site with instructions would be fine too.One more thing,I also got a used face plate.This is also a first for me.Would it be correct to take a facing cut to match it to my spindle or should it be fine as is?Thanks Tom Munroehttp://users.auracom.com/ORIONLX200/index.htm HI TOM I would be inclined to take a very light "dusting cut" or two on face plate to just clean it up.As to the mounting plate for the chuck, same would apply to corresponding surface for max results.As to the four radial screws, no real need to monkey here,as this is why they are there.As to procedure, chuck up a large dowel pin or othe ground piece and keep squeaking adjustments until your dial indicator shows you have arrived at your desired concentricity.Also would leave a very slight drag on lock screws to help hold things until ready to 'LOCK HER UP".ENJOY IT. ! LEE E RUSS
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OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck
Tom <ORIONLX200@...>
Hi All,
I just got my Buck 3-jaw chuck from Plaza
Machinery.I have never used one of these before and would appreciate if someone
could tell me how to properly set it up.I see the four adjusting screws on the
side but do I need to loosen the back plate before doing the
adjustments?Directions to a web site with instructions would be fine too.One
more thing,I also got a used face plate.This is also a first for me.Would it be
correct to take a facing cut to match it to my spindle or should it be fine as
is?Thanks
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Re: mass producing parts on a lathe without a hydrolic taper attachment
kc1fp
Its in workshop projects. The copy link didn't work out as I had
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hoped. Lots of good info on this site for other things as well. JP
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "kc1fp" <jperkins@m...> wrote:
Phil, Check out the profile copier on this website
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Re: mass producing parts on a lathe without a hydrolic taper attachment
kc1fp
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--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Philip" <peb632001@y...> wrote:
Hello Gang,
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Re: I'm basted! (Lube a Lathe)
kc1fp
JJ, That grease comes in a plastic squeeze tube, like toothpaste, and
has a plastic nozzle built into it. Cut off the end and stick it into the hole and squeeze the tube. I noticed you mention 20W, I hope you don't mean motor oil. All motor oils have additives that hold particles in suspension and that is NOT good on an old lathe. Best to use machine oil, way oil and spindle oil. --- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "jonkzak" <jonkzak@y...> wrote: a few beers latter it hit me. I have a turkey-At least it will slide down easily. JP
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Re: New (1962) South Bend 10k owner
BOB WRIGHT
Mike, I have been running my 10K for about a month, mine also has a
chunk out of the pulley which is the groove I use most but I have no problem with it. Someday I will weld it up..Bob --- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Haynes" <emhaynes@p...> wrote: I don't know what the size limits are for group photos so I stuckelectrical goods at 931 dollars. Based on that I'd say I saved a couple ofbought the entire Lindsay library and a new single phase motor.LeBlonde people and decided not to support their drug habit(s). They areinto some seriously expensive drugs judging by what they want for athe USA) tools running. The first big job once I get the hang of it isto turn down the cutterhead shaft on my big jointer so I can pour new
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Re: precision Lathe indexer / Dovetail cutter
Bela Beke <beke@...>
At 10:21 AM 25/06/2004 -0400, you wrote:
Also have this group for Atlas machines but I am sure you could ask generalThank's Ron.Bela in Oz
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Re: New (1962) South Bend 10k owner
gorvil
You have found a beauty. I paid about the same for a "hard worked"
production lathe with no tooling. Congratulations! Glen Reeser
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Re: Serial numbers
arne_at_cox_net <arne_at_cox_net@...>
Frank, the UB103 is probably the Unit Code for the bed. Our bed Unit
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Code is DDB104HG (stamped on the back ways at the tailstock end). The QGC101 might be the gearbox Unit Code. Ours is DTG104H (stamped on the tumbler guide bar). Arne
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, <kerfoot@c...> wrote:
Tom
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Re: south bend 11 inch?
paul benoit <pdkbb@...>
David,
I have an old 11" South Bend lathe. It is #846 and was made sometime in the early teens of 1900. They stopped making the 11" and if you look throught the member info you might be able to find out when.
Paul
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Re: Serial numbers
frankkerfoot
Tom
The serial number you quoted (178095) says your
lathe was made in about Sept. 1946, but not much else about it. The letters LQR
are likely the initials of the person who scraped the bed, based on the answer
to others who have asked the same question. I don't know the meaning of the
UB103 on the back V-way. The QCG101 on the gearbox sounds like a casting
number.
I expect you contacted Leblond, who has the
original build cards which list the part numbers of each of the major
subassemblies like the head, carriage, tailstock, etc, and that some one of
those didn't match between what is actually on your lathe and what the build
card said. Can you tell us more about what part you tried to order? Is there a
model number stamped on the QC gearbox, like CL187, CL8187, CL199 or CL8199? If
your lathe is a 10" built ~1946 I would expect one of those.
Frank Kerfoot
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