Date   

Re: Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa???

rchamberlain@...
 

Check eBay. I bought a 25' roll there for $70 with shipping.
Resto Rick

----- Original Message -----
From: matchgrade2003 <fnfal5064@netscape.net>
Date: Monday, June 28, 2004 3:32 pm
Subject: [southbendlathe] Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa???

All I can find is a supplier in the UK.
--Thanks for any help---Adam



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Source for flat linked (power twist/fenner type) belt in usa???

matchgrade2003 <fnfal5064@...>
 

All I can find is a supplier in the UK.
--Thanks for any help---Adam


new 10K pics

BOB WRIGHT
 

Hi guys, I just posted some new pics of my 10K mods in the South Bend
Lathe Pictures group under 10Kaametalmaster. Thanks..Bob


Re: south bend 11 inch?

CalBoy101 <pt@...>
 

I had a South Bend 11" for many years and it was a great machine.
This one was made in the 30's and basically was like a big 9", with
a backgeared head, quick change gear box, clutched power feed in
both directions. I needed a larger lathe and sold the 11 and the
buyer is very happy with it. If it looks like it has any life left
in it at all, save it, its a great machine.

Paul T.


Re: small precision lathe

telescope@...
 

Hi

I have a full set of 6k collets (actually lacking 2 of the 1/32 sizes) and working to 1/16 is no problem. It is the very small stuff that gives me fits.

Frank

Hi Frank,
Have ever thought about getting a collet closer and a set of collets? I have a SBL with 16 inches of swing and still manage to work as small as 1/16 of an inch in diameter thanks to my collets. Although it would be a great excuse to buy another lathe, I think you would be much better off with a closer.
How does the rest of the group feel about this?
................Philip


Re: small precision lathe

william B. Mispel
 

I agree with Phillip.
I have a 9" SBL.
I have turned .062 often and on 
 occasion less and have ground .015.
I see no problem with a 10".
Bruce


At 10:57 AM 6/28/2004 -0700, you wrote:
Hi Frank,
   Have ever thought about getting a collet closer and a set of collets? I have a SBL with 16 inches of swing and still manage to work as small as 1/16 of an inch in diameter thanks to my collets. Although it would be a great excuse to buy another lathe, I think you would be much better off with a closer.
           How does the rest of the group feel about this?
                        ................Philip

telescope@... wrote:
Hello:

Can anyone on this group recommend a small precision screw-cutting
lathe suitable for small instrument parts? I have a 10k that is
cherry, but too big for little stuff.

Is there a listserv for such a group?

Thank you

Frank

--


Re: small precision lathe

P B
 

Hi Frank,
   Have ever thought about getting a collet closer and a set of collets? I have a SBL with 16 inches of swing and still manage to work as small as 1/16 of an inch in diameter thanks to my collets. Although it would be a great excuse to buy another lathe, I think you would be much better off with a closer.
           How does the rest of the group feel about this?
                        ................Philip

telescope@... wrote:
Hello:

Can anyone on this group recommend a small precision screw-cutting
lathe suitable for small instrument parts? I have a 10k that is
cherry, but too big for little stuff.

Is there a listserv for such a group?

Thank you

Frank


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Re: small precision lathe

telescope@...
 

Hello:

Can anyone on this group recommend a small precision screw-cutting lathe suitable for small instrument parts? I have a 10k that is cherry, but too big for little stuff.

Is there a listserv for such a group?

Thank you

Frank


Re: OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck

Tom <ORIONLX200@...>
 

Thank you Lee that was what I thought I would have to do too<g>
Tom Munroe

HI TOM
I would be inclined to take a very light "dusting cut" or two on face
plate to just clean it up.As to the mounting plate for the chuck, same
would apply to corresponding surface for max results.As to the four
radial screws, no real need to monkey here,as this is why they are
there.As to procedure, chuck up a large dowel pin or othe ground piece
and keep squeaking adjustments until your dial indicator shows you
have arrived at your desired concentricity.Also would leave a very
slight drag on lock screws to help hold things until ready to
'LOCK HER UP".ENJOY IT. ! LEE E RUSS




Re: OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck

lee
 

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" <ORIONLX200@a...> wrote:
Hi All,
I just got my Buck 3-jaw chuck from Plaza Machinery.I have never
used one of these before and would appreciate if someone could tell me
how to properly set it up.I see the four adjusting screws on the side
but do I need to loosen the back plate before doing the
adjustments?Directions to a web site with instructions would be fine
too.One more thing,I also got a used face plate.This is also a first
for me.Would it be correct to take a facing cut to match it to my
spindle or should it be fine as is?Thanks
Tom Munroe
SouthBend Heavy Ten
http://users.auracom.com/ORIONLX200/index.htm

HI TOM
I would be inclined to take a very light "dusting cut" or two on face
plate to just clean it up.As to the mounting plate for the chuck, same
would apply to corresponding surface for max results.As to the four
radial screws, no real need to monkey here,as this is why they are
there.As to procedure, chuck up a large dowel pin or othe ground piece
and keep squeaking adjustments until your dial indicator shows you
have arrived at your desired concentricity.Also would leave a very
slight drag on lock screws to help hold things until ready to
'LOCK HER UP".ENJOY IT. ! LEE E RUSS


OT/ Adjusting a Buck 3-jaw Chuck

Tom <ORIONLX200@...>
 

Hi All,
  I just got my Buck 3-jaw chuck from Plaza Machinery.I have never used one of these before and would appreciate if someone could tell me how to properly set it up.I see the four adjusting screws on the side but do I need to loosen the back plate before doing the adjustments?Directions to a web site with instructions would be fine too.One more thing,I also got a used face plate.This is also a first for me.Would it be correct to take a facing cut to match it to my spindle or should it be fine as is?Thanks


Re: mass producing parts on a lathe without a hydrolic taper attachment

kc1fp
 

Its in workshop projects. The copy link didn't work out as I had
hoped. Lots of good info on this site for other things as well. JP

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "kc1fp" <jperkins@m...> wrote:
Phil, Check out the profile copier on this website

http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Philip" <peb632001@y...> wrote:
Hello Gang,
I am to make about 12 or so candle sticks all being the same in
every way. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can do this? Maybe
somehow attach a pattern to my taper attachment?
....................Philip


Re: mass producing parts on a lathe without a hydrolic taper attachment

kc1fp
 

Phil, Check out the profile copier on this website

http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Philip" <peb632001@y...> wrote:
Hello Gang,
I am to make about 12 or so candle sticks all being the same in
every way. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can do this? Maybe
somehow attach a pattern to my taper attachment?
....................Philip


Re: I'm basted! (Lube a Lathe)

kc1fp
 

JJ, That grease comes in a plastic squeeze tube, like toothpaste, and
has a plastic nozzle built into it. Cut off the end and stick it into
the hole and squeeze the tube. I noticed you mention 20W, I hope you
don't mean motor oil. All motor oils have additives that hold
particles in suspension and that is NOT good on an old lathe. Best to
use machine oil, way oil and spindle oil.

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "jonkzak" <jonkzak@y...> wrote:
a few beers latter it hit me. I have a turkey-
basting syringe that I use for injecting flavoring etc. into the
whole bird for deep-frying on Thanksgiving and the like.
I've got a feeling that Thanksgiving turkey will have
graphite after taste this year…
At least it will slide down easily. JP


Re: New (1962) South Bend 10k owner

BOB WRIGHT
 

Mike, I have been running my 10K for about a month, mine also has a
chunk out of the pulley which is the groove I use most but I have no
problem with it. Someday I will weld it up..Bob
--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Haynes"
<emhaynes@p...> wrote:
I don't know what the size limits are for group photos so I stuck
them in my own album. For pictures see:

http://tinyurl.com/252a4

Picked this up at a L. A. School district auction for eight
hundred. Came complete with 3 and 4 jaw cushman chucks, left, right
and straight tool holders (most still in their original boxes),
cutoff and knurling tools, boring bar, threading tool and index,
parts list and 1960 catalog which shows the price without
electrical
goods at 931 dollars. Based on that I'd say I saved a couple of
dollars. Of course, having saved all that money I went out and
bought
the entire Lindsay library and a new single phase motor.

Ways are nice and show the original scrape marks evenly. The major
problems are oil wells with busted hinges, a chip on the motor
pulley, and a overall state of mild grunge. I talked to the
LeBlonde
people and decided not to support their drug habit(s). They are
into
some seriously expensive drugs judging by what they want for a
pulley. I'm just going to say "no". I hope they manage to kick the
habit soon.

Anyways, I'm a woodworker and need this to keep my old (made in
the
USA) tools running. The first big job once I get the hang of it is
to
turn down the cutterhead shaft on my big jointer so I can pour new
babbit.

Michael aka wreckingcrewchief


Re: precision Lathe indexer / Dovetail cutter

Bela Beke <beke@...>
 

At 10:21 AM 25/06/2004 -0400, you wrote:
Also have this group for Atlas machines but I am sure you could ask general
shaper questions also
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/Atlasshaperandmillingmachineusersgroup/
Ron
Thank's Ron.Bela in Oz


Re: New (1962) South Bend 10k owner

gorvil
 

You have found a beauty. I paid about the same for a "hard worked"
production lathe with no tooling. Congratulations!

Glen Reeser


Re: Serial numbers

arne_at_cox_net <arne_at_cox_net@...>
 

Frank, the UB103 is probably the Unit Code for the bed. Our bed Unit
Code is DDB104HG (stamped on the back ways at the tailstock end). The
QGC101 might be the gearbox Unit Code. Ours is DTG104H (stamped on
the tumbler guide bar).
Arne

--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, <kerfoot@c...> wrote:
Tom
...I don't know the meaning of the UB103 on the back V-way.
The QCG101 on the gearbox sounds like a casting number.


Re: south bend 11 inch?

paul benoit <pdkbb@...>
 

David,
 I have an old 11" South Bend lathe. It is #846 and was made sometime in the early teens of 1900. They stopped making the 11" and if you look throught the member info you might be able to find out when.
Paul
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: 6/26/2004 12:20:46 AM
Subject: [southbendlathe] south bend 11 inch?

Hello to all.  I am the new owner of a somewhat older south bend 9
inch model A.  I am a hobby machinist -- my only experience was a
one semester metal shop class in high school back in the 70's.  I
also am learning about running an asian mini mill.  I was at a local
scrap yard buying some one inch aluminum plate upon which to mount
my mini mill, and found an old south bend lathe that had just
arrived.  It is not in good shape and cannot be run under power as
there is no motor.  From reading the plate on the gear cover, it is
a south bend 11 inch lathe.  I did not record any numbers from the
bed.  I have looked around and I have not found any mention of this
size south bend lathe.  I am curious about his size lathe.  Any
information or a gentle nudge in the direction of information would
be appreciated.

Another observation is:  What has happened to the price of scrap
metal?????.  Wow!.  My aluminum plate cost a buck a pound.  Doesn't
sound bad until I weighed my 30 inch square base plate (cut out of a
very large piece with a sawzall--not receomended) which came out to
91 pounds.  Ouch!

Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

David




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Re: Serial numbers

frankkerfoot
 

Tom
The serial number you quoted (178095) says your lathe was made in about Sept. 1946, but not much else about it. The letters LQR are likely the initials of the person who scraped the bed, based on the answer to others who have asked the same question. I don't know the meaning of the UB103 on the back V-way. The QCG101 on the gearbox sounds like a casting number.
 
I expect you contacted Leblond, who has the original build cards which list the part numbers of each of the major subassemblies like the head, carriage, tailstock, etc, and that some one of those didn't match between what is actually on your lathe and what the build card said. Can you tell us more about what part you tried to order? Is there a model number stamped on the QC gearbox, like CL187, CL8187, CL199 or CL8199? If your lathe is a 10" built ~1946 I would expect one of those.
 
Frank Kerfoot


Hello to the group this is my frist post thanks in advance. I have a
South Bend 10" that I use for pass time and Gun Smithing. I
wentlookin for apart and they said the numbers don't match. The
numbers on the front v-ways are178095 this is the serial number 
after tha L Q R. On the back v-way U B 103. I have had the lathe foe
some time and it is in exlent shape. Can any one tell me what I have
except a fery fine Lathe. I tried the SB web site and it was not much
help. ????

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