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Re: Milling Table
The original builders of machines used hammers, chisels, files, hacksaws, and scrapers to make the machines that built the industrial age. In more modern times, folks have built t-slotted tables with similar tooling, flat stock, and bolts or rivets to make similar tables. Admittedly, such tools are slower. I made the T-nut for my QCTP on my Atlas lathe with a hacksaw and files. You can do anything you want if you recognize the possibilities of your workshop. These are essentially different editions of the same book: https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Benchwork-Workshop-Practice-No/dp/0852429207 https://www.amazon.com/Machinists-Engineering-Apprentices-Metalworkers-Illustrations/dp/1497100577 Martin Cleeve made a T-slotted table decades ago and did an article on it for the UK's Model Engineer magazine, and Mike did both a t-slotted table and faceplate for which I have links. Yes, a milling machine will make things easier, but they are not the only way to do it. http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/tee-slot-cross-slide.html http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/tee-slot-face-plate.html Some folks don't have room for a mill, so they make do with a lathe, and for some folks, even though they do have a mill, sometimes setting up the mill attachment for the lathe is easier for a small part. Lots of ways to do stuff. You can do light milling on a lathe even without a milling table, for example. Got a faceplate for the lathe? You can do a lot of stuff on a faceplate. Even if you don't have one with T-slots. You can also improvise a milling attachment for a lathe with an angle plate and small vise, among other ways to do it. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/milling-atachment-for-lathe.24936/#post-221109 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fezj8G70f7c https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Improvised+milling+attachment+for+lathe&t=brave&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fs-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com%2F564x%2Fec%2F47%2Fa6%2Fec47a6f9f1e1739ca2b52edba0519a66.jpg Do a little web browsing and video watching, and see what you can find that you can fit to your skills and workshop. Making something like this will also increase both your skills and workshop, as well as give you more confidence in yourself. I started this with a 7x10 mini-lathe, and did some light milling on it. Now I've got 4 lathes, 3 milling machines, and a shop full off stuff... Be careful! It's a addiction! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Monday, August 9, 2021, 03:15:12 AM CDT, davetryner via groups.io <davetryner@...> wrote: Many thanks for your comments. I thought that their might be someone out there who had managed to fit a myford slide to a SB. Regarding the Pine Groves cross slide kit that has been mentioned. It is only a kit consisting of a casting and a drawing with machining instructions. You need access to a milling machine to machine the T slots etc which I have not got!! If I had a milling machine why would I want a milling table on the lathe.
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Re: Milling Table
davetryner@...
Many thanks for your comments. I thought that their might be someone out there who had managed to fit a myford slide to a SB. Regarding the Pine Groves cross slide kit that has been mentioned. It is only a kit consisting of a casting and a drawing with machining instructions. You need access to a milling machine to machine the T slots etc which I have not got!! If I had a milling machine why would I want a milling table on the lathe.
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Re: Possible Fixed Steady for a 5" Lathe and an unused Myford Hand Rest
davetryner@...
On Sat, May 29, 2021 at 08:56 PM, bartholomewrichard949 wrote:
The Fully Swivelling Milling Slide. Can you send me a photo. Does it replace the compound slide?
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Re: Milling Table
Paul Bolding
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Hi Phillip
I have purchased one of these cross slides for my
Hercus 9 from Mal and yes well made .Lots of new parts as per his web site
and an easy person to deal with .
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Re: Milling Table
Phillip Rankin
You can try here. In the past this guy has offered a cross slide like you have described. They were originally made for the Australian made Hercus 9" lathes, but should work on South Bend since the Hercus 9" lathes were a clone of the SB same as the British made Boxfords. I have ordered a few oddball change gears for my SB from this guy, and I got to say what he has shipped me has been good fine quality http://www.australianmetalworkinghobbyist.com/
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Re: Milling Table
That's two votes for MLA! William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Friday, August 6, 2021, 12:11:09 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
this is what ya need http://www.mlatoolbox.com/S-4382.html animal On 8/6/2021 1:17 AM, davetryner via
groups.io wrote:
I had a Myford SL7 before changing to SB. One thing I liked on the
Myford was that the crosslide doubled up as a milling table ( it
has a number of useful T slots) by removing the compound slide and
toolpost. Has anyone fitted a Myford crosslide to a SB. At the
moment I fit a milling table in place of the compound slide on the
SB but that reduces the distance to the lathe spindle and limits
its use.
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Re: Milling Table
mike allen
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
On 8/6/2021 1:17 AM, davetryner via
groups.io wrote:
I had a Myford SL7 before changing to SB. One thing I liked on the Myford was that the crosslide doubled up as a milling table ( it has a number of useful T slots) by removing the compound slide and toolpost. Has anyone fitted a Myford crosslide to a SB. At the moment I fit a milling table in place of the compound slide on the SB but that reduces the distance to the lathe spindle and limits its use.
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Re: Milling Table
Might look at this, and see if it will do what you want. Should be a better choice, unless maybe you happen to have the Myford part laying about. http://mlatoolbox.com/S-4382.html I've got an Heavy 10L so it's not quite right for my machine. And mine is in desperate need of restoration before there is any point in buying upgrades for it. HTH! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Friday, August 6, 2021, 07:36:37 AM CDT, davetryner via groups.io <davetryner@...> wrote: I had a Myford SL7 before changing to SB. One thing I liked on the Myford was that the crosslide doubled up as a milling table ( it has a number of useful T slots) by removing the compound slide and toolpost. Has anyone fitted a Myford crosslide to a SB. At the moment I fit a milling table in place of the compound slide on the SB but that reduces the distance to the lathe spindle and limits its use.
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Milling Table
davetryner@...
I had a Myford SL7 before changing to SB. One thing I liked on the Myford was that the crosslide doubled up as a milling table ( it has a number of useful T slots) by removing the compound slide and toolpost. Has anyone fitted a Myford crosslide to a SB. At the moment I fit a milling table in place of the compound slide on the SB but that reduces the distance to the lathe spindle and limits its use.
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Re: SB9c compound Removal
Thomas Harrold
Perhaps it was mentioned already, but you may have better luck with a penetrant, rather than WD40.
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(WD40 brands does make a penetrant). They are better at dissolving dry oil/grease/rust than a generic solvent like WD40. -Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Nelson Collar via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2021 7:32 PM To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c compound Removal Greg You are doing all the right things, the only thing I can think if is it has some how froze the pin in place. I would try to use a two wood wedges set at 180° apart with a small hammer tap the wood wedges and then use a piece of wood on the top of it. Continue that with a good squirt of WD-40, hope that will help. Nelson Collar On Wednesday, August 4, 2021, 01:31:28 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Hey Guys, Looking for a few tricks. Trying to remove the compound off my SB9c. It has been off previously, but something is holding it up. I took the two set crews out, and was able to remove one of the pins with a magnet, but cannot for the life of me get the other pin out. The compound is loose, and tightens, so I do not believe the pin is locked in. I tried a magnet, I tried hot glue on a bolt, I tried hot glue on a wood dowel, bit no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner in there (not a good idea as it took off the paint), I also tried WD-40. Please share any tricks you have to get the pin out. Thanks, Greg
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Re: SB9c compound Removal
Greg
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
You are doing all the right things, the only thing I can think if is it has some how froze the pin in place. I would try to use a two wood wedges set at 180° apart with a small hammer tap the wood wedges and then use a piece of wood on the top of it. Continue that with a good squirt of WD-40, hope that will help. Nelson Collar
On Wednesday, August 4, 2021, 01:31:28 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hey Guys, Looking for a few tricks. Trying to remove the compound off my SB9c. It has been off previously, but something is holding it up. I took the two set crews out, and was able to remove one of the pins with a magnet, but cannot for the life of me get the other pin out. The compound is loose, and tightens, so I do not believe the pin is locked in. I tried a magnet, I tried hot glue on a bolt, I tried hot glue on a wood dowel, bit no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner in there (not a good idea as it took off the paint), I also tried WD-40. Please share any tricks you have to get the pin out. Thanks, Greg
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Re: SB9c compound Removal
mike allen
I would keep flooding it with a spray like WD or such & then keep attacking with a long thin strong magnet , those things can b a real bugger sometimes to get out animal
On 8/4/2021 12:27 PM, Bill in OKC too
via groups.io wrote:
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Re: SB9c compound Removal
G K
Where're good. Did not use heat as I was concerned about more paint damage. Went with the acetone, shake/pull/turn method. After a couple hours on and off with some acetone and tapping with a brass rod, she just popped free. Had to push out the pin. Looks like it was in upside down. Maybe that wedged it in somehow. Ill be more careful reinstalling it in the correct orientation. Thanks, Greg
On Wednesday, August 4, 2021, 02:27:27 PM CDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
Heat gun on the part with the hole in it, and possibly ice the pin. Or heat and cool it, and see if cycling back and forth loosens it up. You've already messed up the paint, but I still wouldn't use a torch on it. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein) On Wednesday, August 4, 2021, 01:31:28 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote: Hey Guys, Looking for a few tricks. Trying to remove the compound off my SB9c. It has been off previously, but something is holding it up. I took the two set crews out, and was able to remove one of the pins with a magnet, but cannot for the life of me get the other pin out. The compound is loose, and tightens, so I do not believe the pin is locked in. I tried a magnet, I tried hot glue on a bolt, I tried hot glue on a wood dowel, bit no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner in there (not a good idea as it took off the paint), I also tried WD-40. Please share any tricks you have to get the pin out. Thanks, Greg
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Re: SB9c compound Removal
Heat gun on the part with the hole in it, and possibly ice the pin. Or heat and cool it, and see if cycling back and forth loosens it up. You've already messed up the paint, but I still wouldn't use a torch on it. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects. LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Wednesday, August 4, 2021, 01:31:28 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote: Hey Guys, Looking for a few tricks. Trying to remove the compound off my SB9c. It has been off previously, but something is holding it up. I took the two set crews out, and was able to remove one of the pins with a magnet, but cannot for the life of me get the other pin out. The compound is loose, and tightens, so I do not believe the pin is locked in. I tried a magnet, I tried hot glue on a bolt, I tried hot glue on a wood dowel, bit no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner in there (not a good idea as it took off the paint), I also tried WD-40. Please share any tricks you have to get the pin out. Thanks, Greg
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SB9c compound Removal
G K
Hey Guys, Looking for a few tricks. Trying to remove the compound off my SB9c. It has been off previously, but something is holding it up. I took the two set crews out, and was able to remove one of the pins with a magnet, but cannot for the life of me get the other pin out. The compound is loose, and tightens, so I do not believe the pin is locked in. I tried a magnet, I tried hot glue on a bolt, I tried hot glue on a wood dowel, bit no luck. I sprayed carb cleaner in there (not a good idea as it took off the paint), I also tried WD-40. Please share any tricks you have to get the pin out. Thanks, Greg
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Re: Motor pulley for two-step counter shaft pulley
Davis Johnson
Skip to end for apology to m. allan noah. I had too much fun
writing this rant to delete it. As a rough approximation, If the shafts are far enough apart keeping the belt length and shaft constant requires that the sum of the sizes of the driving and driven needs to stay constant. Length of belt is about A*PI+B*Pi+2*D=(A+B)*PI+2*D, where A and B
are the pulley sizes and D is the distance between the shafts. The exact formula is a bunch messier. See Mark's handbook or
Machinery handbook. The approximation is close as long as the
shafts are far enough apart for the belt to wrap about half of
each pulley. Close enough for belt stretch to take care of the
error in a lot of cases. Tensioner adjustment in more cases. So the driving pulley for the smaller step has to be larger than the driving pulley for the larger step. The larger counter shaft step has to be the slower of the two. So, if you size the smaller motor pulley to drive the larger pulley at standard speed, the the small pulley will be faster than standard speed. If you size the smaller motor pulley to drive the smaller step on the counter shaft at standard speed the large pulley will be slower than standard speed. Apology to m. allan noah at end: I just suddenly realized your statement about shaft spacing (or
belt length) is absolutely correct if you assume the same size
pulley driving both steps. I was also unclear that I was referring
to the counter shaft pulley when I wrote larger pulley and smaller
pulley.
On 8/1/21 7:10 PM, m. allan noah wrote:
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Re: Motor pulley for two-step counter shaft pulley
m. allan noah
On Sun, Aug 1, 2021 at 5:03 PM Davis Johnson <davis@...> wrote:
Note that doing those things will also require you to change the center distance between the motor and countershaft, or change the belt when you shift between the steps. allan -- "well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
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Motor pulley for two-step counter shaft pulley
Davis Johnson
I just acquired a two-step counter shaft pulley for the 9-A in my garage.
I've been wanting one, just because, for some time. They have generally been more expensive than I want to spend on something I don't actually need. This one I couldn't pass up. I don't find myself limited by the current setup. The motor pulley I've got is clearly not original. I'll probably start the upgrade by replacing the single step counter shaft with this two step number, and using the existing motor pulley and the large step on the new pulley. It will look nice but not functionally change any thing. I'll probably have to make the motor pulley, so I can make it anything I want. The most obvious approach would be to duplicate the factory pulley. But I don't have to do that. I could duplicate the existing speeds on the small pulley, and give myself four slower speeds on the big pulley. I could duplicate the existing speeds on the large pulley, and give myself four faster speeds on the small pulley. I could overlap the ranges in various ways. Suggestions? Yes I know I could get a VFD.
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Re: Turret Lathe - any interest
frank7748124
I have a similar cross slide on ebay right now. I am cleaning up more cross slide parts to sell.
On Sunday, August 1, 2021, 12:52:14 PM EDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
I like that topslide animal On 8/1/2021 8:04 AM, Thomas Harrold via
groups.io wrote:
I came across this at a barn sale - They are looking to sell a LOT of machinery, mostly antique American made Lathes.
I have not seen many turret lathes - was this modified from a standard 9", or did South Bend sell them?
Is there value? I can get more pictures - the seller is local. (KC Metro area)
-Tom
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Re: Turret Lathe - any interest
Thomas Harrold
I can get more pics. I was there today. Found the motor and tension pulley, in good shape.
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The belt tension lever is broken, but those are available. I’ll try to get the SN next time I go. The owners (really nice people) are trying to sell their late fathers collection. He has a ton of tooling for each of about 6-7 lathes. (Multiple chucks, steady rests, taper adaptors, drills, etc.) The turret was the only south bend. He has a couple of Sheldon lathes (with gearboxes) that are about as good a copy of a SB as you can find though! I can send a link. I’d like to put together a group to go in on some of this. He’s thinking $8k for everything, one price, make it go away. There’s a Bridgeport J head mill, and a nice grizzly R8 mill that converts to horizontal or vertical. Cincinnati cutter grinder, and a really stout horizontal mill. The price is not ludicrous given everything. My SB9 needs some company…but I can’t take on 7 lathes. Most are 12-14” swing. Sheldons May be 11”, I need to do my research. -Tom
On Aug 1, 2021, at 11:52 AM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
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