Date   

moderated SB 9" for sale

Nick Andrews
 

My brother has two SB lathes.  He is keeping the 13" and selling the 9".  I think it's a W model,  made for a bench top.  It's in Prescott Valley,  AZ.  He has an engine host for loading.  Said he's thinking about cleaning and painting it or selling as-is.  Not sure what all tooling goes with it,  but he has some different stuff. 


Re: New member, owner of SB vertical mill

Nick Andrews
 

Thanks.   It's in pretty good condition,  just a few table dings.  Gearbox for the table power feed and such are gone, just the box where the shaft feeds in and of course the longer right side end with the selection lever.  Picked out up from NMSU auction for about $1250.  Just 3 tool holders,  one being a double taper Z collet,  came with it.  But an 8" Yuasa hor/vertical rotary table too.  So that's cool. 

I then picked up a Kurt Anglok 6" vise at a local estate sale for $60.

Just getting started playing with it. 

On Wed, Jun 2, 2021, 10:30 PM Payson <egreene104@...> wrote:
Welcome. That's only the 2nd SB mill I've ever seen. Good luck.

Payson.


Re: New member, owner of SB vertical mill

Payson
 

Welcome. That's only the 2nd SB mill I've ever seen. Good luck.

Payson.


Re: New member, owner of SB vertical mill

Nick Andrews
 

Nice!  Those bearings are supposed to be sealed.  I found a manual with an actual part number and can buy replacements.   Thought about doing that and possibly removing the inward-facing seals and adding a zerk to grease the assembly. 


On Mon, May 31, 2021, 12:30 PM Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:
Sorry about being tardy on your approval. I must have been asleep at the switch. 
thats a nice Mil.l. 
SB tended to use proprietary pulleys. You may need to make your own.  I rebuilt a SB Drill press some years ago and converted it to a multi speed unit with an extra step pulley in the middle. 
This was a SB option. 
I made my center pulley. 


It took a few days but worked out in the end. 
SB tended to use standard bearings. The noisy ones can be replaced. I would first try a very light lubricant such as Kroil and see if it quiets. Often the old grease has solidified and a BIT of light oil will soften it up. 


On May 30, 2021, at 2:32 PM, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@...> wrote:

Not sure if there's a separate group for mills or not, didn't see one.  I have a MIL 3212 mill bought at a university auction that is missing the correct motor pulley.   They installed a single sheave,  possibly to run off a vfd.  I'm looking to replace it and got info on another group that is a little bigger than a 3-4-5-6 pulley.   1" motor shaft on mine. 

The idler shaft bearings are a little noisy but it runs fine on my simple homebuilt rotary converter. Need to get some Velocite for the quill instead of the 3in1 I've been using. 

I got some generic drill chucks with the nmtb30 taper,  had to mill notches for locking screws.   This was the first job I used it for,  actually.   Tilted the head way over about 48 degrees to match the few tool holders that came with it and laid the new holder flat in Kurt vise ($60 at estate sale! ).  Worked great.  Where do you get to holders? 
<20210530_131212.jpg><20210530_131113.jpg><20210530_130909.jpg><IMG_20210515_234229_595.jpg><20210515_155142.jpg>

Jim B.





--
Jim B


Re: New member, owner of SB vertical mill

sblatheman
 

I think I have the motor pulley you need.
Send me an email.
Latheman2@...
Ted

On May 31, 2021, at 1:21 PM, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@...> wrote:


Not sure if there's a separate group for mills or not, didn't see one.  I have a MIL 3212 mill bought at a university auction that is missing the correct motor pulley.   They installed a single sheave,  possibly to run off a vfd.  I'm looking to replace it and got info on another group that is a little bigger than a 3-4-5-6 pulley.   1" motor shaft on mine. 

The idler shaft bearings are a little noisy but it runs fine on my simple homebuilt rotary converter. Need to get some Velocite for the quill instead of the 3in1 I've been using. 

I got some generic drill chucks with the nmtb30 taper,  had to mill notches for locking screws.   This was the first job I used it for,  actually.   Tilted the head way over about 48 degrees to match the few tool holders that came with it and laid the new holder flat in Kurt vise ($60 at estate sale! ).  Worked great.  Where do you get to holders? 
<20210530_131212.jpg>
<20210530_131113.jpg>
<20210530_130909.jpg>
<IMG_20210515_234229_595.jpg>
<20210515_155142.jpg>


Re: New member, owner of SB vertical mill

Jim_B
 

Sorry about being tardy on your approval. I must have been asleep at the switch. 
thats a nice Mil.l. 
SB tended to use proprietary pulleys. You may need to make your own.  I rebuilt a SB Drill press some years ago and converted it to a multi speed unit with an extra step pulley in the middle. 
This was a SB option. 
I made my center pulley. 


It took a few days but worked out in the end. 
SB tended to use standard bearings. The noisy ones can be replaced. I would first try a very light lubricant such as Kroil and see if it quiets. Often the old grease has solidified and a BIT of light oil will soften it up. 


On May 30, 2021, at 2:32 PM, Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@...> wrote:

Not sure if there's a separate group for mills or not, didn't see one.  I have a MIL 3212 mill bought at a university auction that is missing the correct motor pulley.   They installed a single sheave,  possibly to run off a vfd.  I'm looking to replace it and got info on another group that is a little bigger than a 3-4-5-6 pulley.   1" motor shaft on mine. 

The idler shaft bearings are a little noisy but it runs fine on my simple homebuilt rotary converter. Need to get some Velocite for the quill instead of the 3in1 I've been using. 

I got some generic drill chucks with the nmtb30 taper,  had to mill notches for locking screws.   This was the first job I used it for,  actually.   Tilted the head way over about 48 degrees to match the few tool holders that came with it and laid the new holder flat in Kurt vise ($60 at estate sale! ).  Worked great.  Where do you get to holders? 
<20210530_131212.jpg><20210530_131113.jpg><20210530_130909.jpg><IMG_20210515_234229_595.jpg><20210515_155142.jpg>

Jim B.





--
Jim B


New member, owner of SB vertical mill

Nick Andrews
 

Not sure if there's a separate group for mills or not, didn't see one.  I have a MIL 3212 mill bought at a university auction that is missing the correct motor pulley.   They installed a single sheave,  possibly to run off a vfd.  I'm looking to replace it and got info on another group that is a little bigger than a 3-4-5-6 pulley.   1" motor shaft on mine. 

The idler shaft bearings are a little noisy but it runs fine on my simple homebuilt rotary converter. Need to get some Velocite for the quill instead of the 3in1 I've been using. 

I got some generic drill chucks with the nmtb30 taper,  had to mill notches for locking screws.   This was the first job I used it for,  actually.   Tilted the head way over about 48 degrees to match the few tool holders that came with it and laid the new holder flat in Kurt vise ($60 at estate sale! ).  Worked great.  Where do you get to holders? 


Possible Fixed Steady for a 5" Lathe and an unused Myford Hand Rest

bartholomewrichard949
 

I think these should fit either a S.B., a Boxford, or maybe an Atlas!  The Hand Rest is an Unused genuine Myford (part number: 73/1956), Price: £25 ;  The 'Steady' (labelled ASTER 8/120)is the type that has an under-clamp piece which fits below the bed. The bed gap being 2" between ways. Maximum diameter for workholding is 2-3/4", and the 'V' is 1/2" wide.  Price: £45
Also for sale is a substantial Fully Swivelling Milling Slide in excellent condition - Bed size =160mm by 88mm.(so larger overall than the usual Myford size)  Price: £90 (ovno)
Close -up photos on request if you send me your email.
Richard:  01366-728030 (West Norfolk)


Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Last Continued

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

In my last update, I mentioned that the jaws on my Nine Inch Follower
Rest didn't align correctly.  To elaborate, here is a pic:



I noticed that when the jaws are aligned, the guide slot on the jaws isn't centered
in the hole where the key goes.  So, instead of using a standard key:



I made a couple of offset keys:



Now the jaws align much better (certainly good enough to use).


All I can figure is that the holes in the follower were not drilled in the correct
place. 

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Jack Dinan
 

Gary: Mind expanding on this a bit? On a scale of 1 to 5, how difficult was it to machine the castings?

On May 28, 2021, at 9:08 PM, Gary Johnson <gwj@...> wrote:

I built the one from the MLA casting kit. Simple, clever design and fun to make. Works great. http://mlatoolbox.com/MLA-13.html


Gary



Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Gary Johnson
 

I built the one from the MLA casting kit. Simple, clever design and fun to make. Works great. http://mlatoolbox.com/MLA-13.html


Gary


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Daniel White
 

Thanks folks. Appreciate the input and feed back. Glad I brought it here so I could get good, needed feedback before I go into ordering necessary parts to make it. 
Seems I got more to think about before I get to making anything. The main shapes were to be turning radius’s and ogive shapes.


Re: SB9c rebuild - Drive Belt

mike allen
 

        my bad , there's guys on Ebay that sell countershaft bushings . I have never checked to see if their a standard size , but if so would be a whole lot cheaper . machine tool parts are like Harley parts , just mention South Bend

        or lathe & price go's up

        animal

On 5/28/2021 11:13 AM, G K via groups.io wrote:
The current issue is between the motor and the countershaft, not eh countershaft and the spindle.

On Friday, May 28, 2021, 12:40:25 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:


        Can't you just turn the adjuster on the rod that go's from the belt lever to the the jackshaft ?

        animal


On 5/28/2021 10:16 AM, G K via groups.io wrote:
Update.

Checked the runout on the outside of the countershaft pulley, with no v-belt.  Its about 0.003.  Not sure if this is good or bad, or for that matter, what I could do about it.  Also, according to the HTRAL book, there should be about 1-inch of depression between the pulleys on the v-belt.  Mine was quite a bit tighter than that.  I'll order up a little bit larger belt and see what happens.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday Weekend.  Thanks to all that served!

Greg

On Thursday, May 27, 2021, 09:54:01 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:


Evening All,

Got the switch wired, just waiting on a new cord the make it complete.  
Also waiting on a die to chase the threads on the saddle handle.  
So I moved onto the drive system.  Put everything together, including the two new fiber washers included in the felt/rebuild kit, but no go.  Too tight.  Pulled one out and it seems to be turning a bit better.  Now the issue:

I replaced the drive belt with a new V-belt.  43-inches per my research.  But it seems very tight.  I have the motor slid completely up to allow to walk the belt on.  Also when I run it the pully has a bit of a wobble.  Not horizontal, but more vertical like it was a bit out of round.  Could the too-tight belt be the culprit?  I would think, given the amount of adjustment that the motor bracket allows, that a little longer belt would still do the job.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Ondrej Krejci
 

Greetings,

There are a few flaws with this design.
If this is to be used on the compound slide, most of the turning capacity is eaten up by the thickness of the bars; hence the cutting tool should be very near the pivot.
The pivot would have to be move near the mount at the compound, otherwise, there would be plenty of chatter and the possibility of hogging in to work and bending the bars while cutting anything beyond nylon.
Using aluminium is inadvisable because of its properties.
If only a couple balls need to be turned, roughing in by eye or with a template and finishing with a form tool would be the way to go.
If some production is to be run, a swinging "C" radius cutting attachment would be best.

Good Luck,

OK


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

m. allan noah
 

Unfortunately, this makes for very imprecise ball diameter adjustments, as you have to move the toolpost or tool. Moving crossfeed is not the same, because that changes the center of rotation. Nice if you want to make a toroid, for instance, but not as good for making a ball. Also, this design makes concave radii more difficult to make.

allan


On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 2:39 PM Daniel White via groups.io <dannya1a=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
here is a 3d drawing of my idea. All parts are sized and figured out. top bar is 12" long. bottom one is 9 1/4" long.. big block on top is qctp



--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Daniel White
 

here is a 3d drawing of my idea. All parts are sized and figured out. top bar is 12" long. bottom one is 9 1/4" long.. big block on top is qctp


Re: SB9c rebuild - Drive Belt

G K
 

The current issue is between the motor and the countershaft, not eh countershaft and the spindle.

On Friday, May 28, 2021, 12:40:25 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:


        Can't you just turn the adjuster on the rod that go's from the belt lever to the the jackshaft ?

        animal


On 5/28/2021 10:16 AM, G K via groups.io wrote:
Update.

Checked the runout on the outside of the countershaft pulley, with no v-belt.  Its about 0.003.  Not sure if this is good or bad, or for that matter, what I could do about it.  Also, according to the HTRAL book, there should be about 1-inch of depression between the pulleys on the v-belt.  Mine was quite a bit tighter than that.  I'll order up a little bit larger belt and see what happens.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday Weekend.  Thanks to all that served!

Greg

On Thursday, May 27, 2021, 09:54:01 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:


Evening All,

Got the switch wired, just waiting on a new cord the make it complete.  
Also waiting on a die to chase the threads on the saddle handle.  
So I moved onto the drive system.  Put everything together, including the two new fiber washers included in the felt/rebuild kit, but no go.  Too tight.  Pulled one out and it seems to be turning a bit better.  Now the issue:

I replaced the drive belt with a new V-belt.  43-inches per my research.  But it seems very tight.  I have the motor slid completely up to allow to walk the belt on.  Also when I run it the pully has a bit of a wobble.  Not horizontal, but more vertical like it was a bit out of round.  Could the too-tight belt be the culprit?  I would think, given the amount of adjustment that the motor bracket allows, that a little longer belt would still do the job.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg


Re: SB9c rebuild - Drive Belt

mike allen
 

        Can't you just turn the adjuster on the rod that go's from the belt lever to the the jackshaft ?

        animal


On 5/28/2021 10:16 AM, G K via groups.io wrote:
Update.

Checked the runout on the outside of the countershaft pulley, with no v-belt.  Its about 0.003.  Not sure if this is good or bad, or for that matter, what I could do about it.  Also, according to the HTRAL book, there should be about 1-inch of depression between the pulleys on the v-belt.  Mine was quite a bit tighter than that.  I'll order up a little bit larger belt and see what happens.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday Weekend.  Thanks to all that served!

Greg

On Thursday, May 27, 2021, 09:54:01 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:


Evening All,

Got the switch wired, just waiting on a new cord the make it complete.  
Also waiting on a die to chase the threads on the saddle handle.  
So I moved onto the drive system.  Put everything together, including the two new fiber washers included in the felt/rebuild kit, but no go.  Too tight.  Pulled one out and it seems to be turning a bit better.  Now the issue:

I replaced the drive belt with a new V-belt.  43-inches per my research.  But it seems very tight.  I have the motor slid completely up to allow to walk the belt on.  Also when I run it the pully has a bit of a wobble.  Not horizontal, but more vertical like it was a bit out of round.  Could the too-tight belt be the culprit?  I would think, given the amount of adjustment that the motor bracket allows, that a little longer belt would still do the job.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg


Re: SB9c rebuild - Drive Belt

G K
 

Update.

Checked the runout on the outside of the countershaft pulley, with no v-belt.  Its about 0.003.  Not sure if this is good or bad, or for that matter, what I could do about it.  Also, according to the HTRAL book, there should be about 1-inch of depression between the pulleys on the v-belt.  Mine was quite a bit tighter than that.  I'll order up a little bit larger belt and see what happens.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday Weekend.  Thanks to all that served!

Greg

On Thursday, May 27, 2021, 09:54:01 PM CDT, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:


Evening All,

Got the switch wired, just waiting on a new cord the make it complete.  
Also waiting on a die to chase the threads on the saddle handle.  
So I moved onto the drive system.  Put everything together, including the two new fiber washers included in the felt/rebuild kit, but no go.  Too tight.  Pulled one out and it seems to be turning a bit better.  Now the issue:

I replaced the drive belt with a new V-belt.  43-inches per my research.  But it seems very tight.  I have the motor slid completely up to allow to walk the belt on.  Also when I run it the pully has a bit of a wobble.  Not horizontal, but more vertical like it was a bit out of round.  Could the too-tight belt be the culprit?  I would think, given the amount of adjustment that the motor bracket allows, that a little longer belt would still do the job.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Greg


Re: Possible new, and cheapest way to make a better ball turner.

Rick
 

Here's what I built about 10 years ago for my SB9A.

781 - 800 of 105751