Date   

Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

G K
 

That's a great idea........................................if there was a counter shaft in the lathe to turn the counter shaft down.   ;o)




On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 04:13:56 PM CDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:


Great idea! I was going to suggest machining a dimple or flat spot, but your method is probably better. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 04:11:08 PM CDT, Todd <belvedere66@...> wrote:


May I make a suggestion to all based on my experience and business of machining obsolete parts for the "hobby"...

Delta/Rockwell commonly turned down any shaft in the area where a set/grub screw was used. This allowed disassembly with no galling due to the burr created by the grub screw.  I duplicate that in all items I machine wherever it is practical.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 5:06:25 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Only one set screw per hole.  The key was WD-40, time and patience.  After it sat for a couple hours, and a slow twist and pull. I exposed the set screw locations.  Very little burring, but I dressed what was there to be safe.  Then off she came.  No bearings or bushings.  Looks like two holes in a casting with room for the new felt wicks.

Thanks a lot guys.

More to come later.

On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:11:47 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Bill in OKC too
 

Great idea! I was going to suggest machining a dimple or flat spot, but your method is probably better. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 04:11:08 PM CDT, Todd <belvedere66@...> wrote:


May I make a suggestion to all based on my experience and business of machining obsolete parts for the "hobby"...

Delta/Rockwell commonly turned down any shaft in the area where a set/grub screw was used. This allowed disassembly with no galling due to the burr created by the grub screw.  I duplicate that in all items I machine wherever it is practical.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 5:06:25 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Only one set screw per hole.  The key was WD-40, time and patience.  After it sat for a couple hours, and a slow twist and pull. I exposed the set screw locations.  Very little burring, but I dressed what was there to be safe.  Then off she came.  No bearings or bushings.  Looks like two holes in a casting with room for the new felt wicks.

Thanks a lot guys.

More to come later.

On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:11:47 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Todd
 

May I make a suggestion to all based on my experience and business of machining obsolete parts for the "hobby"...

Delta/Rockwell commonly turned down any shaft in the area where a set/grub screw was used. This allowed disassembly with no galling due to the burr created by the grub screw.  I duplicate that in all items I machine wherever it is practical.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 5:06:25 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Only one set screw per hole.  The key was WD-40, time and patience.  After it sat for a couple hours, and a slow twist and pull. I exposed the set screw locations.  Very little burring, but I dressed what was there to be safe.  Then off she came.  No bearings or bushings.  Looks like two holes in a casting with room for the new felt wicks.

Thanks a lot guys.

More to come later.

On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:11:47 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

G K
 

Only one set screw per hole.  The key was WD-40, time and patience.  After it sat for a couple hours, and a slow twist and pull. I exposed the set screw locations.  Very little burring, but I dressed what was there to be safe.  Then off she came.  No bearings or bushings.  Looks like two holes in a casting with room for the new felt wicks.

Thanks a lot guys.

More to come later.

On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:11:47 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

E A
 

Well, unless a previous owner added set screws, and shortened the existing ones, I'd say doubles is not likely.

Erik A



From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 4:45 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
We'll probably survive. I saw your comment just a moment after I hit send, after all!

I'd say Great Minds Think Alike, but I know for sure now that mine isn't all that great. ;)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:34:19 PM CDT, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


Sorry, another commenter already covered the double setscrew item. I hit send before reading all the other comments. My bad.

Steve Haskell

On May 6, 2021, at 4:30 PM, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:

 For any set screws that you removed, check to make sure there is not another set screw in the hole.

Steve Haskell


On May 6, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Bill in OKC too
 

We'll probably survive. I saw your comment just a moment after I hit send, after all!

I'd say Great Minds Think Alike, but I know for sure now that mine isn't all that great. ;)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:34:19 PM CDT, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


Sorry, another commenter already covered the double setscrew item. I hit send before reading all the other comments. My bad.

Steve Haskell

On May 6, 2021, at 4:30 PM, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:

 For any set screws that you removed, check to make sure there is not another set screw in the hole.

Steve Haskell


On May 6, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Steven H
 

Sorry, another commenter already covered the double setscrew item. I hit send before reading all the other comments. My bad.

Steve Haskell

On May 6, 2021, at 4:30 PM, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:

For any set screws that you removed, check to make sure there is not another set screw in the hole.

Steve Haskell


On May 6, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Steven H
 

For any set screws that you removed, check to make sure there is not another set screw in the hole.

Steve Haskell


On May 6, 2021, at 4:11 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Bill in OKC too
 

I won't absolutely swear to it, but I think that's an Atlas thing. Though it wouldn't hurt to check, since I know at least one hobby machinist that has both Atlas and SB lathes. 

Bill in OKC <------- Guilty as charged!

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Thursday, May 6, 2021, 03:11:52 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:


keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Andrei
 

keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

E A
 

Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

G K
 


Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Saddle

Stuart Wilby
 
Edited

Loosen the centre screw, this relieves the side pressure of the friction pin enough to gently tap the phosphor bronze ( mine is cast iron) with a soft drift, and it will come out without too much effort. I am assuming you are referring to the crosslide threaded tee nut which is on the saddle.


Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

wlw19958
 
Edited

Hi There,

I'm sorry but I do not have any drawings (machinist or otherwise), blue prints,
or anything related to the castings themselves.  All I have are some of the
drawings of the individual parts used in the telescoping steady rest that were
made by Paula a long time ago.  She used to hang out on the Practical Machinist
board on their South Bend forum.  I assume she still does. 

I have used Cattail Foundry a few times to get castings made for difficult to
find parts.  They can make castings using an original part to ram up a mold
(flask).  There will be a slight amount of shrinkage but it is minimal (depending
on the size) so the copy will be slightly smaller than the original.  In my case,
the shrinkage was 1/16" to 1/8" depending on the size of the original that was
being copied. 

I haven't used them in about 8 years but I'm glad to hear that they are still
around.  I always dealt with them through US postal mail.  Their turn around
is slow (depending where in their casting cycle you catch them) but they were
dependable.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 9A follower rest

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

The nine inch, 10K and Heavy Ten (10R/L) telescoping steady rests use the same
knobs, screws, jaws, etc.  They also share the same upper casting.  This usually has
a casting number something like PT116NR1 or 126NR2 (this is what two of my steadies  
have cast into them)  The "N" is for nine inch and "R" is for the Heavy Ten and it is
implied that it is also for the 10K (because the 10k is in-between the nine inch and
the heavy ten)  The lower castings are different based on the swing and bed dimensions. 
The casing number on the base will be something like 115N1 or 125R2.  Hence, the nine
inch is unique. the 10K is unique and so is the Heavy Ten. 

The larger swing lathes use different parts in their telescoping steadies.  I assume they
use a larger version of these parts.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 9A follower rest

mike allen
 

just thought about this & if the telescoping parts are the same as on a 10" lathe I could be interested in just the casting part . I have a real cherry Heavy 10 casting that I'll trade for a 9 casting

        animal

On 5/4/2021 6:42 PM, sblatheman via groups.io wrote:
Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@psln.com> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal










Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Carl Bukowsky
 

Very nice work.  Is that your design as well?  It’s got a unique style and look.  I do have a design question; how do you open it? 

Sent by my iPhone

On May 4, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Nelson Collar via groups.io <nel2lar@...> wrote:


Grover
I have the complete build up for a 9A but to scale up to your lathe could be done. And there are no castings. I am uploading a pic of the finished Steady Rest. 
Nelson   

On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:31:58 PM EDT, Grover McKenzie <gmcken@...> wrote:


would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady.  also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb








<Steady rest guides comleted 2.jpg>
<Steady rest guides comleted.jpg>


Re: 9A follower rest

mike allen
 

K , thanks

        animal

On 5/4/2021 6:42 PM, sblatheman via groups.io wrote:
Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@psln.com> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal










Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Nelson Collar
 

Grover
I have the complete build up for a 9A but to scale up to your lathe could be done. And there are no castings. I am uploading a pic of the finished Steady Rest. 
Nelson   

On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:31:58 PM EDT, Grover McKenzie <gmcken@...> wrote:


would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady.  also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb









Re: 9A follower rest

sblatheman
 

Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@psln.com> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal






721 - 740 of 105525