Date   

Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

Andrei
 

keep in mind that in some installations there is a small grub screw under the grub screw you removed. Look twice before pulling on things. 


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of E A <b-arch@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 3:32 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 
Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

E A
 

Yeah that was a booger for me as well! Both of the set screws created burs that with the sludge, made it a PITA to disassemble.
To start with, I worked the collar toward the cone pully until I could lightly file the bur on the shaft. Then slowly drove the shaft out of the cone pully.
More correctly, I drove the cone pulley backward on the shaft rather than risk mushrooming the end of the shaft. Also, ran a 4" bolt into the cone pulley set screw hole, and used that as leverage to kind of break the cone pully free of the shaft sludge. And lots of Kroil!
Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2021 2:19 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft
 

Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Counter Shaft

G K
 


Hey Guys,

Trying to remove the counter shaft from my SB9c.  Appears from the ILION book as well as the Parts List that the only thing holding the shaft in the assembly is the set screw collar, and the set screw/jam nut on the Cone Pulley.  I took both set screws out nd still no movement.  Recommendations?

My first thought, beyond some WD-40 is to tap the shaft from the Cone Pulley end with a brass drift.  Does not look like, from the parts diagram, that anything beyond age and sludge is holding things together.

Also, I understand that I should only move the shaft out until I can see/address any burrs around where the screw collar fastens to the shaft.

Any other advice?


Re: SB9c rebuild - Saddle

Stuart Wilby
 
Edited

Loosen the centre screw, this relieves the side pressure of the friction pin enough to gently tap the phosphor bronze ( mine is cast iron) with a soft drift, and it will come out without too much effort. I am assuming you are referring to the crosslide threaded tee nut which is on the saddle.


Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

wlw19958
 
Edited

Hi There,

I'm sorry but I do not have any drawings (machinist or otherwise), blue prints,
or anything related to the castings themselves.  All I have are some of the
drawings of the individual parts used in the telescoping steady rest that were
made by Paula a long time ago.  She used to hang out on the Practical Machinist
board on their South Bend forum.  I assume she still does. 

I have used Cattail Foundry a few times to get castings made for difficult to
find parts.  They can make castings using an original part to ram up a mold
(flask).  There will be a slight amount of shrinkage but it is minimal (depending
on the size) so the copy will be slightly smaller than the original.  In my case,
the shrinkage was 1/16" to 1/8" depending on the size of the original that was
being copied. 

I haven't used them in about 8 years but I'm glad to hear that they are still
around.  I always dealt with them through US postal mail.  Their turn around
is slow (depending where in their casting cycle you catch them) but they were
dependable.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 9A follower rest

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

The nine inch, 10K and Heavy Ten (10R/L) telescoping steady rests use the same
knobs, screws, jaws, etc.  They also share the same upper casting.  This usually has
a casting number something like PT116NR1 or 126NR2 (this is what two of my steadies  
have cast into them)  The "N" is for nine inch and "R" is for the Heavy Ten and it is
implied that it is also for the 10K (because the 10k is in-between the nine inch and
the heavy ten)  The lower castings are different based on the swing and bed dimensions. 
The casing number on the base will be something like 115N1 or 125R2.  Hence, the nine
inch is unique. the 10K is unique and so is the Heavy Ten. 

The larger swing lathes use different parts in their telescoping steadies.  I assume they
use a larger version of these parts.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 9A follower rest

mike allen
 

just thought about this & if the telescoping parts are the same as on a 10" lathe I could be interested in just the casting part . I have a real cherry Heavy 10 casting that I'll trade for a 9 casting

        animal

On 5/4/2021 6:42 PM, sblatheman via groups.io wrote:
Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal










Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Carl Bukowsky
 

Very nice work.  Is that your design as well?  It’s got a unique style and look.  I do have a design question; how do you open it? 

Sent by my iPhone

On May 4, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Nelson Collar via groups.io <nel2lar@...> wrote:


Grover
I have the complete build up for a 9A but to scale up to your lathe could be done. And there are no castings. I am uploading a pic of the finished Steady Rest. 
Nelson   

On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:31:58 PM EDT, Grover McKenzie <gmcken@...> wrote:


would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady.  also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb








<Steady rest guides comleted 2.jpg>
<Steady rest guides comleted.jpg>


Re: 9A follower rest

mike allen
 

K , thanks

        animal

On 5/4/2021 6:42 PM, sblatheman via groups.io wrote:
Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal










Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Nelson Collar
 

Grover
I have the complete build up for a 9A but to scale up to your lathe could be done. And there are no castings. I am uploading a pic of the finished Steady Rest. 
Nelson   

On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:31:58 PM EDT, Grover McKenzie <gmcken@...> wrote:


would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady.  also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb









Re: 9A follower rest

sblatheman
 

Sorry, not at this time.

Ted

On May 4, 2021, at 9:01 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

 Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

thanks

animal







9A follower rest

mike allen
 

Ted have ya gotten any 9A telescopic follower rest's in ?

        thanks

        animal


Re: Thrust bearing replacement

Richard Wanke
 

Halligan 142 has a video on utube about replacing the fiber washer at the end of the spindle with a thrust bearing if that is what you are talking about.



He used a bearing and hardened washers from Mcmaster. 

Part numbers...
Bearing 5909K3.  1 3/8" ID x 2 1/16" OD x 5/64 thick
Hardened washers 5909K53.  .032 thick (x 2)



On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 11:37:57 AM EDT, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


McMaster.com sells thrust bearings. Anything there that would work?

Steve Haskell

On May 4, 2021, at 11:14 AM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Between the front of rear journal and a step on the spindle is a ball bearing assembly. These are rare, and hard to find.  
Try TED at latheman2@...m
Now these very seldom get bad. and I would not expect them to chirp unless they are totally without oil. 
Try loosening up the aforementioned spindle take up washer and see if the chirp goes away. 

At one time Grizzly had them but I think they sold out. They may have replacements but expect the cost to be high.  As I remember, somebody did find a substitute, but that was years ago. Try searching the archives. 

On May 4, 2021, at 10:03 AM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:

OK. My bad. I purchased mine years ago. What thrust bearing are you referring to? This was for the spindle take up bearing. 
Al
 
From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of amriensr via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 9:11 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Thrust bearing replacement
 
The Ebay kink that you provide is for a "Take Up Bearing" not the actual thrust bearing.
 
On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 7:54:56 AM EDT, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote: 
 
 

I converted mine from the fiber washer to a thrust bearing. I purchased it from SteveWB on eBay. Steve provides instructions on how to do it. I consider Steve a very good seller.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/152445466871?hash=item237e7538f7:g:kBEAAOSwawpXsQNz

 

Standard disclaimer stuff.

Al

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Steven Karvelis
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 12:05 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Thrust bearing replacement

 

Hello everyone, I have a 9"model A lathe which has a steak or chirp that is rythmic in nature. I believe that the thrust bearing is going bad and I need to replace it. Does anyone know what the call-out for this bearing is? I didn't want to take the spindle out just to find out. I had a problem in the past with this bearing and I should have taken care of the problem then. I just didn't have time.

Thank you all,

Steve Karvelis 


Jim B.





--
Jim B


Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Andrei
 

Cattail Foundry in Lancaster, PA does all sorts of castings. 

A few years back a friend did a batch and it was about $1 per pound for cast iron. Prices must have gone up in recent times, but it still would be affordable even at 3-4-5 times the cost. All you need is to provide a mold and negotiate a minimium quantity.

They are Amish, so stop thinking about emailing them or checking out their website. Call them on the phone or send them snail mail. Patience is a virtue. 

Here is the google link that might help you, some. 

https://www.google.com/search?q=cattail+foundry+lancaster+pa&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS901US901&oq=lancaster+foundry&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j46i175i199j0i22i30l7.6142j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of Grover McKenzie <gmcken@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 7:31 PM
To: SouthBendLathe <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4
 
would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady.  also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb









Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Grover McKenzie
 

would you be kind enough to give the machinist drawings for the telescoping steady rest and traveling steady. also is there any interest in getting someone to cast the steady rest and traveling steady for a 13 south bend lathe due to these being hard to find.

----- Original Message -----
From: "wlw19958" <wlw-19958@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 3:13:18 PM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Hi There,

*Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?*

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals.

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

Looks GOOD. What knurl wheels you use? Course?

You could say I used "course" knurl wheels.  I purchased my knurls from
Accu-Trak.  I use the KP series knurls with 45° diagonal (to produce a
90° diamond).  These are available in several pitches (16, 20, 25 and 30
tpi) and I used the 20 tpi knurls as they are the closest to the originals. 

I have one of those scissor type knurling tools I use (which work so much
better than the "bump" type made by Armstrong and Williams).

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: SB9c rebuild - Saddle

E A
 

You don't have to get the pin out of the t-nut to remove the tee nut.
The screw just forces the pin sideways against the side of the bore for the tee nut... so with pressure off by removing the screw, the  pin isn't pressing on the side, so the tee nut can be tapped out of the saddle.
If this doesn't make sense, I can do a sketch for you...

Erik A


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 4, 2021 12:04 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB9c rebuild - Saddle
 
Hey Guys,

Little insight needed.

How is the brass T-nut removed from the saddle on a 9c?  I removed the brass lock screw from the top of the saddle, but no idea how to get the pin out from inside of the t-nut.

Thoughts/experience?








Re: Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

Steve Wells
 

Very nice work Webb, looks perfect.

Steve

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of wlw19958
Sent: Monday, May 3, 2021 11:18 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Making parts for a Telescoping Steady Rest - Part 4

 

Hi There,

I don't have too much to report but I wanted to show
the first knob I made.  The original is on the right next
to the copy I made.









I still have to drill the two holes.  One for the brass shoe (that goes in the hole
in the groove) and the other for the cross pin (that is at the top). 

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: SB9c rebuild - Saddle

G K
 

Hey Guys,

Little insight needed.

How is the brass T-nut removed from the saddle on a 9c?  I removed the brass lock screw from the top of the saddle, but no idea how to get the pin out from inside of the t-nut.

Thoughts/experience?








Re: SB9c rebuild

G K
 

Thanks David,

I made a similar tool out of a 3/8 screw driver that worked out perfectly.



On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 10:42:10 AM CDT, David Bassing <dbassing@...> wrote:


Here is a pic of the tool I made to remove the handles on my 13”. I used a 5/8” spade bit. The drive end is 1/4 hex that fits a 1/4” nut driver. Worked well. Good luck.
David






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