Date   

Re: Follow rest

mike allen
 

        sorry , only have a follow rest to trade

        animal

On 2/12/2021 8:45 PM, John Amundson via groups.io wrote:
I could use a center rest, if your trading doesn't follow through!


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

Steve Wells
 

Scott,

Good Job, it sounds like your spindle bearing temperatures are becoming homogeneous,

and that is important. Step through the RPM range, giving it a rest between them, like you are doing

and it should be fine, keep checking you temps and after your final hi speed run, make some chips fly!!

 

Steve   

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 5:39 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Thanks once again folks. 

 

Since I emailed last, I threw the chuck on it and ran it for about 30 minutes (no cutting) at the 740RPM speed. The small bearing hovered right around 90f. The large/front was still lower, but only by a bit (82f). For sure an improvement from the the first test. Id say the ambient temps have been around 65f in the shop today. 

 

I don’t have the final shim measurements with me. IIRC they were roughly in the .016 area - giving me very near .001 runout on the large  bearing, and a tad under .001 for the small bearing. I will wait to see if I need further changes when I can measure with the tenth indicator. 

 

I will also keep an eye on the temps over the next couple days and projects. I can see fluctuations in ambient temps requiring changes, or at least it effecting initial bearings temps as the oil reacts to the ambient shop temperature. 

 

And the most important thing - no binding so far.  Let’s hope it stays that way!

 

Thanks so much for all your help!!!

 

Scott



On Feb 13, 2021, at 2:56 PM, wlw19958 <wlw-19958@...> wrote:

Hi There,

There are several reasons why a bearing will run warmer than another. 
Not the least of which are the clearances in the bearings.  Unfortunately,
the OP hasn't posted his readings.  I understand that a 1/2 thousandths
indicator isn't the best type to use in this situation but if it is the best one
has at the moment...

To discuss why a bearing may run warmer (clearances aside) can be dirt,
burrs, or anything else that might interfere with alignment and clamping
pressure on the bearing shell.  The slightest nick or ding can be the problem.

I will have to disagree with Steve on bearing break-in.  Even though the spindle
has run-in with the current bearings, if the shim packs have been adjusted,
it will change the shape of the bearing and the points of contact will change
(or more correctly, the highs and lows of the bearing will change).  This will
necessitate a certain amount of run-in to even out (depending on the amount 
of change that has taken place).

In my experience, I have adjusted the spindle bearings and brought them
into spec. and then a month later, found that they needed adjustment again.
So, things do change while the spindle runs and subject to vibration and
hot/cold cycling.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

Jim Schwitters
 

Ted,
Many thanks.  That clears up a lot.

As an aside, I called SB/Grizzly to get the lathe "build card", but not really expecting success.  They were courteous and helpful, certain that they had cards on file "for every lathe they ever made".  But after a couple days they acknowledged they did not have one for this lathe though they did say the SN (00120SWT) was valid.

Thanks again,
Jim


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

motopreserveshop
 

Thanks once again folks. 

Since I emailed last, I threw the chuck on it and ran it for about 30 minutes (no cutting) at the 740RPM speed. The small bearing hovered right around 90f. The large/front was still lower, but only by a bit (82f). For sure an improvement from the the first test. Id say the ambient temps have been around 65f in the shop today. 

I don’t have the final shim measurements with me. IIRC they were roughly in the .016 area - giving me very near .001 runout on the large  bearing, and a tad under .001 for the small bearing. I will wait to see if I need further changes when I can measure with the tenth indicator. 

I will also keep an eye on the temps over the next couple days and projects. I can see fluctuations in ambient temps requiring changes, or at least it effecting initial bearings temps as the oil reacts to the ambient shop temperature. 

And the most important thing - no binding so far.  Let’s hope it stays that way!

Thanks so much for all your help!!!

Scott

On Feb 13, 2021, at 2:56 PM, wlw19958 <wlw-19958@...> wrote:

Hi There,

There are several reasons why a bearing will run warmer than another. 
Not the least of which are the clearances in the bearings.  Unfortunately,
the OP hasn't posted his readings.  I understand that a 1/2 thousandths
indicator isn't the best type to use in this situation but if it is the best one
has at the moment...

To discuss why a bearing may run warmer (clearances aside) can be dirt,
burrs, or anything else that might interfere with alignment and clamping
pressure on the bearing shell.  The slightest nick or ding can be the problem.

I will have to disagree with Steve on bearing break-in.  Even though the spindle
has run-in with the current bearings, if the shim packs have been adjusted,
it will change the shape of the bearing and the points of contact will change
(or more correctly, the highs and lows of the bearing will change).  This will
necessitate a certain amount of run-in to even out (depending on the amount 
of change that has taken place).

In my experience, I have adjusted the spindle bearings and brought them
into spec. and then a month later, found that they needed adjustment again.
So, things do change while the spindle runs and subject to vibration and
hot/cold cycling.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

m. allan noah
 



On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 3:53 PM glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:


So it seems, anybody that reports a SB made in Europe, Asia or elsewhere simply is repeating a nonsensical claim, or is describing a pirated copycat of some sort.


Nonsense. Ted just told you about the later Asian made Turnados, plus there was a rebadged Hercus, and those Korean made 10Ks, and others.

allan

--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

James Rice
 

That explains the Turnado at the plant being different from the Turnado at the college.  Different vintages, different manufacturers.  

Thanks, Ted.

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 2:23 PM sblatheman via groups.io <latheman2=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The 17”, 20”, & 27” Turnados were made in South Bend up until circa 1993. That year, SBL was sold out of bankruptcy to the guy that owned Republic Lagun. He started using the Turnado name on the machines he imported from Taiwan. They looked nothing like the originals and were 14”, 16”, 18”, and 21 or 22”?

Ted

On Feb 13, 2021, at 2:50 PM, Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:

Ted,
Thanks for the reply.  I was hopeful that you would add your expertise.

I'll take your answer at face value, but could you please clarify some of the confusion around where Turn-nados were built.  I've spent a good bit of time reading on the web and various sources claim built in Belgium, Spain, France, Italy and Taiwan, though no source of the info inspires confidence.  I'm specifically referring to 17" lathes made prior to , say, 1990.  17" because this looks exactly like 17s that I have seen pictured except for what look like 5" risers to the headstock, compound, and tailstock making it 27" swing.

Bottom line, it does not really matter to me where this was made since it looks like a good machine.  Really just looking for accurate knowledge.  BTW, this lathe has a two-speed UK made motor with 10/5 Hp.  More Hp than the 7.5 that I have seen on 17" presumably because of the added swing.
Regards,
Jim


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...>
 

I had similar curiosity when I purchased  my “SB Fourteen”, some years ago.  

image1.jpeg

Like the Turn-Nados, the SB Fourteen is an early 1970’s version of your modern basic Taiwan looking knockoff Lathe. Because it looks like an Asian knock off, some people somehow started assuming that SB magically established a yet unidentified factory in Taiwan where these must have all been made.  Which of course is simply not true. SB’s were all made in South bend.  No where else. When I tracked down the manufacturing origin for my lathe (south bend),  I got the impression from the people I found, that they and company in general had actually grown quite hostile to repeatedly answering this question over the years,  as it was and is, simply nonsense. 

Another way to verify where your lathe was made is to look at the SB manufacturer’s plate.  Since 1930, section 304 of the US Tarrif Act requires country of origin labeling on all foreign manufactured goods imported into the US.  So any SB lathe made overseas, since 1930 would have the country or origin imprinted on the label. If the item was manufactured in the US, no label is required.  To date, no foreign county of origin has ever been reported on a SB label. Actually there is one exception, sort of.  Some SB 9” lathes we’re licensed for Uk manufacture under the Wells label, during WWII.  These are fairly common in Britain and Australia today. However they are Wells lathes, not south bend lathes, even though they have interchangeable parts.

So it seems, anybody that reports a SB made in Europe, Asia or elsewhere simply is repeating a nonsensical claim, or is describing a pirated copycat of some sort.

Glenn P. 


On Feb 13, 2021, at 11:49 AM, Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:

Ted,
Thanks for the reply.  I was hopeful that you would add your expertise.

I'll take your answer at face value, but could you please clarify some of the confusion around where Turn-nados were built.  I've spent a good bit of time reading on the web and various sources claim built in Belgium, Spain, France, Italy and Taiwan, though no source of the info inspires confidence.  I'm specifically referring to 17" lathes made prior to , say, 1990.  17" because this looks exactly like 17s that I have seen pictured except for what look like 5" risers to the headstock, compound, and tailstock making it 27" swing.

Bottom line, it does not really matter to me where this was made since it looks like a good machine.  Really just looking for accurate knowledge.  BTW, this lathe has a two-speed UK made motor with 10/5 Hp.  More Hp than the 7.5 that I have seen on 17" presumably because of the added swing.
Regards,
Jim


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

sblatheman
 

The 17”, 20”, & 27” Turnados were made in South Bend up until circa 1993. That year, SBL was sold out of bankruptcy to the guy that owned Republic Lagun. He started using the Turnado name on the machines he imported from Taiwan. They looked nothing like the originals and were 14”, 16”, 18”, and 21 or 22”?

Ted

On Feb 13, 2021, at 2:50 PM, Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:

Ted,
Thanks for the reply.  I was hopeful that you would add your expertise.

I'll take your answer at face value, but could you please clarify some of the confusion around where Turn-nados were built.  I've spent a good bit of time reading on the web and various sources claim built in Belgium, Spain, France, Italy and Taiwan, though no source of the info inspires confidence.  I'm specifically referring to 17" lathes made prior to , say, 1990.  17" because this looks exactly like 17s that I have seen pictured except for what look like 5" risers to the headstock, compound, and tailstock making it 27" swing.

Bottom line, it does not really matter to me where this was made since it looks like a good machine.  Really just looking for accurate knowledge.  BTW, this lathe has a two-speed UK made motor with 10/5 Hp.  More Hp than the 7.5 that I have seen on 17" presumably because of the added swing.
Regards,
Jim


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

There are several reasons why a bearing will run warmer than another. 
Not the least of which are the clearances in the bearings.  Unfortunately,
the OP hasn't posted his readings.  I understand that a 1/2 thousandths
indicator isn't the best type to use in this situation but if it is the best one
has at the moment...

To discuss why a bearing may run warmer (clearances aside) can be dirt,
burrs, or anything else that might interfere with alignment and clamping
pressure on the bearing shell.  The slightest nick or ding can be the problem.

I will have to disagree with Steve on bearing break-in.  Even though the spindle
has run-in with the current bearings, if the shim packs have been adjusted,
it will change the shape of the bearing and the points of contact will change
(or more correctly, the highs and lows of the bearing will change).  This will
necessitate a certain amount of run-in to even out (depending on the amount 
of change that has taken place).

In my experience, I have adjusted the spindle bearings and brought them
into spec. and then a month later, found that they needed adjustment again.
So, things do change while the spindle runs and subject to vibration and
hot/cold cycling.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

Jim Schwitters
 

Ted,
Thanks for the reply.  I was hopeful that you would add your expertise.

I'll take your answer at face value, but could you please clarify some of the confusion around where Turn-nados were built.  I've spent a good bit of time reading on the web and various sources claim built in Belgium, Spain, France, Italy and Taiwan, though no source of the info inspires confidence.  I'm specifically referring to 17" lathes made prior to , say, 1990.  17" because this looks exactly like 17s that I have seen pictured except for what look like 5" risers to the headstock, compound, and tailstock making it 27" swing.

Bottom line, it does not really matter to me where this was made since it looks like a good machine.  Really just looking for accurate knowledge.  BTW, this lathe has a two-speed UK made motor with 10/5 Hp.  More Hp than the 7.5 that I have seen on 17" presumably because of the added swing.
Regards,
Jim


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

Steve Wells
 

Scott,

Since they are not new bearings(no run in), You can run it with a chuck on it

To check temperature settings, that might change the front bearing temp.

There are many variables in the “ideal” temperatures you will see.

One to keep in mind is at, what ambient temperature did you set the clearance?

“ideal” would probably be 68 degrees, but who has that ability in their home shop,

Not me…😊 There is an expansion ratio/for spindle/bearing temp increase. Visualize

a modern precision bearing fit, to expand about .001-0.0015 we try to raise the bearing inner race temperature

a 100 degrees F or so, trying not to exceed about 200F, these vary by manufacture.

I just tested a set 2 days ago, I had the spindle at 56F and the old inner race slipped on at 130.

I ran the new ones up to 190 and had plenty of time to set my bearings flush with spacers.

Long story short, keep checking the temperatures as the environment changes. I’m

Not sure of your speeds but 1800 rpm is probably the upper limited long run speed.

550sfm is probably a safe running number. With synthetic 650sfm. 85 to 115F sounds fine

To me, but that is relevant to load and speed. For now I wouldn’t exceed much more than

60 or 70F rise until you test loading with a chuck and turning/cutting loads. Also back off the take-up nut,

and set it with a warm bearing to see if it changes the running temperature. You can replace the thrust

washer with a needle roller bearing set and not have to contend with that.

Ted may remember the upper temperature limit, I have always been ok with 140,

depending on how heavy I’m cutting.

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 11:20 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

 

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

 

Thanks for helping me get this far!

 

Scott



On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott



Re: Warm left/rear bearing

Davis Johnson
 

It has always struck me as a trifle odd that the spindle thrust and takeup bearings depend on leakage from the main spindle bearing and/or the spindle-to-pulley interface that is also the source of all the endless oil-grease-superlube controversy.

It seems to me that a little deliberate lubrication on the thrust and takeup bearings, especially right after a tear down and cleaning, might be in order.

On 2/13/21 11:19 AM, motopreserveshop wrote:
Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: SB 9A project completed

mby852@...
 

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 08:15 AM, Steve Wells wrote:

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

 

The cabinet came with the lathe. I took it apart and sanded it and primed and painted. I didn't see any brand on it, sorry. I have seen that cabinet before though looking at lathes.

       The top I got at Lowes. 2' x 4'. $18. It was 5/4 thickness. A true 1 1/4 thick.  I was going to make my own but for that price it was a no brainer.  They had about 10 in the rack and the 2 on the bottom were this thickness. The others were 1" thick but were all the same price and labeled as 5/4 also. Somebody screwed up there. I should check and see if they still have the other and I'll get just for the price. Can always use it for something. As I was working on the lathe I would put a couple of coats on a day. I have about 15 coats or more. The top feels like glass. I used minwax wipe on poly.  Maybe overkill  but it feels and looks good.

Mike

 


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

James Rice
 

I believe the Turnados were from Taiwan.  A couple of years ago I used a 17" in welding school beveling pipe coupons for practice and AWS certification tests when I was taking pipeline welding and seem to recall seeing Taiwan on the data plate. I was teasing the instructor about backing my trailer up to the door and rescuing the lathe from all the students' abuse.   Also a vegetable oil refinery and packaging plant I used to work at btook delivery of a new 17" Turnado in the very late 70's or possibly very early 80's.  I remember running power to it from the maintenance shop bus duct but don't remember exactly what year it was.  I was an outside contractor at the plant from 1973 to 1999.

I think that does look like a 17" with riser blocks.

James

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 9:53 AM Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:
Resurrecting an old thread.  I just acquired a surplus mobile military machine shop trailer just like the OP.  Was purchased primarily for the trailer running gear and included generator.

The 27" South Bend Turn-nado lathe has the next serial number in sequence to the OP's.  Entire contents of the trailer, including the lathe, are unused.  The lathe has what appears to be all the accessories and tooling that SB offered at the time, all still in the drawers and original shipping crate.

Trailer and contents appear to be from around 1984.  I understand SB had these lathes made for them and imported, either from Europe or Taiwan.  Anyone know which country this lathe was made?  Not surprisingly, South Bend/Grizzly does not have the build card for this lathe.

Lathe and tooling will be offered for sale as soon as I can get it out of the trailer and sorted.

Jim


Re: SB 9A project completed

mby852@...
 

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 08:15 AM, Steve Wells wrote:

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

Sure thing Steve.............

Catalog No.  644 Z 
Bed.  3 1/2'

Serial # 14437NAR9

 


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

sblatheman
 

The 27” was made in South Bend, not an import.

Ted

On Feb 13, 2021, at 10:53 AM, Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:

Resurrecting an old thread.  I just acquired a surplus mobile military machine shop trailer just like the OP.  Was purchased primarily for the trailer running gear and included generator.

The 27" South Bend Turn-nado lathe has the next serial number in sequence to the OP's.  Entire contents of the trailer, including the lathe, are unused.  The lathe has what appears to be all the accessories and tooling that SB offered at the time, all still in the drawers and original shipping crate.

Trailer and contents appear to be from around 1984.  I understand SB had these lathes made for them and imported, either from Europe or Taiwan.  Anyone know which country this lathe was made?  Not surprisingly, South Bend/Grizzly does not have the build card for this lathe.

Lathe and tooling will be offered for sale as soon as I can get it out of the trailer and sorted.

Jim
<0210211720a.jpg>


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

motopreserveshop
 

Oh, and for Steve: 

Serial number: 7103RKL 13

On Feb 13, 2021, at 11:19 AM, motopreserveshop via groups.io <nortstudio@...> wrote:


Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

motopreserveshop
 

Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: SB 9A project completed

Steve Wells
 

Also could you list a source for the cabinet and the top, I really like it.

 

Steve

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve Wells
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 11:15 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of mby852 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 5:42 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Hi all,

Thought I'd share some pic's of my 3 month on and off refurb of my 9A. Tore it down to every last nut and bolt. Put in new felts & wicks. Polished all the parts that I could. I had a new Dayton 1/2 hp motor sitting around for a long time that I put on. Tore the cabinet apart and painted it and installed a new top. It's quiet and smooth and runs great! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to making some things. Also Thanks to those who answered a few questions along the way. 

 

Mike


Re: SB 9A project completed

Steve Wells
 

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of mby852 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 5:42 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Hi all,

Thought I'd share some pic's of my 3 month on and off refurb of my 9A. Tore it down to every last nut and bolt. Put in new felts & wicks. Polished all the parts that I could. I had a new Dayton 1/2 hp motor sitting around for a long time that I put on. Tore the cabinet apart and painted it and installed a new top. It's quiet and smooth and runs great! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to making some things. Also Thanks to those who answered a few questions along the way. 

 

Mike

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