Date   

Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

Jim Schwitters
 

Ted,
Thanks for the reply.  I was hopeful that you would add your expertise.

I'll take your answer at face value, but could you please clarify some of the confusion around where Turn-nados were built.  I've spent a good bit of time reading on the web and various sources claim built in Belgium, Spain, France, Italy and Taiwan, though no source of the info inspires confidence.  I'm specifically referring to 17" lathes made prior to , say, 1990.  17" because this looks exactly like 17s that I have seen pictured except for what look like 5" risers to the headstock, compound, and tailstock making it 27" swing.

Bottom line, it does not really matter to me where this was made since it looks like a good machine.  Really just looking for accurate knowledge.  BTW, this lathe has a two-speed UK made motor with 10/5 Hp.  More Hp than the 7.5 that I have seen on 17" presumably because of the added swing.
Regards,
Jim


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

Steve Wells
 

Scott,

Since they are not new bearings(no run in), You can run it with a chuck on it

To check temperature settings, that might change the front bearing temp.

There are many variables in the “ideal” temperatures you will see.

One to keep in mind is at, what ambient temperature did you set the clearance?

“ideal” would probably be 68 degrees, but who has that ability in their home shop,

Not me…😊 There is an expansion ratio/for spindle/bearing temp increase. Visualize

a modern precision bearing fit, to expand about .001-0.0015 we try to raise the bearing inner race temperature

a 100 degrees F or so, trying not to exceed about 200F, these vary by manufacture.

I just tested a set 2 days ago, I had the spindle at 56F and the old inner race slipped on at 130.

I ran the new ones up to 190 and had plenty of time to set my bearings flush with spacers.

Long story short, keep checking the temperatures as the environment changes. I’m

Not sure of your speeds but 1800 rpm is probably the upper limited long run speed.

550sfm is probably a safe running number. With synthetic 650sfm. 85 to 115F sounds fine

To me, but that is relevant to load and speed. For now I wouldn’t exceed much more than

60 or 70F rise until you test loading with a chuck and turning/cutting loads. Also back off the take-up nut,

and set it with a warm bearing to see if it changes the running temperature. You can replace the thrust

washer with a needle roller bearing set and not have to contend with that.

Ted may remember the upper temperature limit, I have always been ok with 140,

depending on how heavy I’m cutting.

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 11:20 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

 

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

 

Thanks for helping me get this far!

 

Scott



On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott



Re: Warm left/rear bearing

Davis Johnson
 

It has always struck me as a trifle odd that the spindle thrust and takeup bearings depend on leakage from the main spindle bearing and/or the spindle-to-pulley interface that is also the source of all the endless oil-grease-superlube controversy.

It seems to me that a little deliberate lubrication on the thrust and takeup bearings, especially right after a tear down and cleaning, might be in order.

On 2/13/21 11:19 AM, motopreserveshop wrote:
Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: SB 9A project completed

mby852@...
 

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 08:15 AM, Steve Wells wrote:

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

 

The cabinet came with the lathe. I took it apart and sanded it and primed and painted. I didn't see any brand on it, sorry. I have seen that cabinet before though looking at lathes.

       The top I got at Lowes. 2' x 4'. $18. It was 5/4 thickness. A true 1 1/4 thick.  I was going to make my own but for that price it was a no brainer.  They had about 10 in the rack and the 2 on the bottom were this thickness. The others were 1" thick but were all the same price and labeled as 5/4 also. Somebody screwed up there. I should check and see if they still have the other and I'll get just for the price. Can always use it for something. As I was working on the lathe I would put a couple of coats on a day. I have about 15 coats or more. The top feels like glass. I used minwax wipe on poly.  Maybe overkill  but it feels and looks good.

Mike

 


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

James Rice
 

I believe the Turnados were from Taiwan.  A couple of years ago I used a 17" in welding school beveling pipe coupons for practice and AWS certification tests when I was taking pipeline welding and seem to recall seeing Taiwan on the data plate. I was teasing the instructor about backing my trailer up to the door and rescuing the lathe from all the students' abuse.   Also a vegetable oil refinery and packaging plant I used to work at btook delivery of a new 17" Turnado in the very late 70's or possibly very early 80's.  I remember running power to it from the maintenance shop bus duct but don't remember exactly what year it was.  I was an outside contractor at the plant from 1973 to 1999.

I think that does look like a 17" with riser blocks.

James

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 9:53 AM Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:
Resurrecting an old thread.  I just acquired a surplus mobile military machine shop trailer just like the OP.  Was purchased primarily for the trailer running gear and included generator.

The 27" South Bend Turn-nado lathe has the next serial number in sequence to the OP's.  Entire contents of the trailer, including the lathe, are unused.  The lathe has what appears to be all the accessories and tooling that SB offered at the time, all still in the drawers and original shipping crate.

Trailer and contents appear to be from around 1984.  I understand SB had these lathes made for them and imported, either from Europe or Taiwan.  Anyone know which country this lathe was made?  Not surprisingly, South Bend/Grizzly does not have the build card for this lathe.

Lathe and tooling will be offered for sale as soon as I can get it out of the trailer and sorted.

Jim


Re: SB 9A project completed

mby852@...
 

On Sat, Feb 13, 2021 at 08:15 AM, Steve Wells wrote:

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

Sure thing Steve.............

Catalog No.  644 Z 
Bed.  3 1/2'

Serial # 14437NAR9

 


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

sblatheman
 

The 27” was made in South Bend, not an import.

Ted

On Feb 13, 2021, at 10:53 AM, Jim Schwitters <jrschwit@...> wrote:

Resurrecting an old thread.  I just acquired a surplus mobile military machine shop trailer just like the OP.  Was purchased primarily for the trailer running gear and included generator.

The 27" South Bend Turn-nado lathe has the next serial number in sequence to the OP's.  Entire contents of the trailer, including the lathe, are unused.  The lathe has what appears to be all the accessories and tooling that SB offered at the time, all still in the drawers and original shipping crate.

Trailer and contents appear to be from around 1984.  I understand SB had these lathes made for them and imported, either from Europe or Taiwan.  Anyone know which country this lathe was made?  Not surprisingly, South Bend/Grizzly does not have the build card for this lathe.

Lathe and tooling will be offered for sale as soon as I can get it out of the trailer and sorted.

Jim
<0210211720a.jpg>


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

motopreserveshop
 

Oh, and for Steve: 

Serial number: 7103RKL 13

On Feb 13, 2021, at 11:19 AM, motopreserveshop via groups.io <nortstudio@...> wrote:


Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: Warm left/rear bearing

motopreserveshop
 

Ok. She’s button back up and I’m not exactly sure what to think. I will say it runs quieter. And clearly I needed to address the spindle bearing play.

GOOD:  She’s now within spec (best I could get for a .0005 indicator). I’ll check again tomorrow - a tenth indicator arrives later tonight. 

BAD (?) The small bearing is still running warmer than the large (front). I ran it for about 30 minutes on the fastest speed using the large step pulley (3rd fastest speed of 6). It measured at a peak of 118f. And then actually leveled and dipped down to 113f. The entire time the large (front) bearing ran at around 84f. 

Not really sure where this leaves me. I’m certainly glad I got the spindles in spec. And I’m still below the 140f zone that was mentioned earlier in the thread. 

Am I way off here, or is she running as she should?

Thanks for helping me get this far!

Scott

On Feb 12, 2021, at 3:15 PM, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:



Scott,

Here is a new set of felt oilers standing in the wells.

And another with the wires in, ready for the spindle.

What is the serial number of you lathe, I think the “black Plastic”

Comment was my old age…lol that would have to be the fiber washer.

My 10L is a 1968 Tool room and has the fiber washer.

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/16.JPG

 

www.wswells.com/photos/1968-10L-swells/19.JPG

 

Steve

 

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of motopreserveshop
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 9:55 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Warm left/rear bearing

 

Once again, really appreciate all the help. I think I’m on the final leg of my adventure (for now!). Few final questions...

1. The brass capillary tubes are almost spot on .1 proud of the surface, so those look great. 

2. When I removed the spindle the capillary wicks were below the surface by aprox 1/4”. In fact, the top of the wick was almost exactly in line with the hole used to insert the wire for holding. Almost as if the wire was removed and they never popped up after installing the spindle and pulling the wire. This seems bad - and would leave the spindle without direct wick contact. Hoping this may have been part of the binding issue. 

3. All oil passages now seem to be clear. I hadn’t noticed the breather also intersected the lower passage. Thanks for pointing that out. 

4. The washer that has always been installed on the take-up collar/split nut is not a pinned “fiber washer,” as I always see referenced. It is merely a very thin shim-style steel washer.  I measure it at .0085. Also, my take up nut doesn’t not have a recess for a pin - maybe this spindle is a different vintage than I normally see referenced?  Is this thin washer a problem?

5. I read an old 10L rebuild thread by Steve that mentions a “black plastic flat washer” in the section about adding super lube to the pulley. I couldn’t see one in the thread photos - and I can’t find one anywhere on my headstock/spindle. Can someone tell me where to look, or whether this is another variation for my era lathe (mid-50’s)?

thanks again!

scott


Re: SB 9A project completed

Steve Wells
 

Also could you list a source for the cabinet and the top, I really like it.

 

Steve

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve Wells
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2021 11:15 AM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of mby852 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 5:42 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Hi all,

Thought I'd share some pic's of my 3 month on and off refurb of my 9A. Tore it down to every last nut and bolt. Put in new felts & wicks. Polished all the parts that I could. I had a new Dayton 1/2 hp motor sitting around for a long time that I put on. Tore the cabinet apart and painted it and installed a new top. It's quiet and smooth and runs great! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to making some things. Also Thanks to those who answered a few questions along the way. 

 

Mike


Re: SB 9A project completed

Steve Wells
 

Mike,

Could you list the serial number for me, please.

 

Steve

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of mby852 via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 5:42 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed

 

Hi all,

Thought I'd share some pic's of my 3 month on and off refurb of my 9A. Tore it down to every last nut and bolt. Put in new felts & wicks. Polished all the parts that I could. I had a new Dayton 1/2 hp motor sitting around for a long time that I put on. Tore the cabinet apart and painted it and installed a new top. It's quiet and smooth and runs great! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to making some things. Also Thanks to those who answered a few questions along the way. 

 

Mike


Re: 27" South Bend TURN-NADO

Jim Schwitters
 

Resurrecting an old thread.  I just acquired a surplus mobile military machine shop trailer just like the OP.  Was purchased primarily for the trailer running gear and included generator.

The 27" South Bend Turn-nado lathe has the next serial number in sequence to the OP's.  Entire contents of the trailer, including the lathe, are unused.  The lathe has what appears to be all the accessories and tooling that SB offered at the time, all still in the drawers and original shipping crate.

Trailer and contents appear to be from around 1984.  I understand SB had these lathes made for them and imported, either from Europe or Taiwan.  Anyone know which country this lathe was made?  Not surprisingly, South Bend/Grizzly does not have the build card for this lathe.

Lathe and tooling will be offered for sale as soon as I can get it out of the trailer and sorted.

Jim


Follow rest

John Amundson
 

I could use a center rest, if your trading doesn't follow through!


Re: SB 9A project completed

mike allen
 

        thank you much

        animal


Heavy 10 follow rest

mike allen
 

I have a cherry  Telescopic Heavy 10 follow rest that I will trade for a 9A Telescopic  follow rest

        animal


Re: Heavy 10 Follower Rest?

Jim_B
 

Try this. 
Back off the lower finger. 
Tilt the SR up in the back. The casting has slots to allow this. 
Just lightly snug bolts to allow adjustments.  
Balance tilt and lower finger positioning so finger is centered on work. 
Then adjust upper finger. 
You should find a spot. 


Jim B,

On Feb 12, 2021, at 10:38 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


<image0.jpeg>

There is two styles of steady rest. The telescopic and the slotted manual. Shown is my SR for my Heavy 10. 
A 10L is a heavy 10. Perhaps you mean  a 10K. 
If it were a 9” the slotted fingers would be below center. 
It just looks like you need to adjust the upper finger

Jim B,

On Feb 12, 2021, at 9:59 PM, Filson <dcox1032@...> wrote:



<3D83851E-BEFC-48E0-80F6-79FF39A1315D.jpeg>
<81745BF6-0A86-4FC7-A716-3964BC699E26.jpeg>
I have this follower rest that I purchased for my Heavy10 Southbend. It was sold to me as a Heavy 10 rest. 

But, I don’t think it is correct. Is it for a 10L or maybe a 9?  


--
Jim B

--
Jim B


Re: Heavy 10 Follower Rest?

Jim_B
 


There is two styles of steady rest. The telescopic and the slotted manual. Shown is my SR for my Heavy 10. 
A 10L is a heavy 10. Perhaps you mean  a 10K. 
If it were a 9” the slotted fingers would be below center. 
It just looks like you need to adjust the upper finger

Jim B,

On Feb 12, 2021, at 9:59 PM, Filson <dcox1032@...> wrote:



<3D83851E-BEFC-48E0-80F6-79FF39A1315D.jpeg>
<81745BF6-0A86-4FC7-A716-3964BC699E26.jpeg>
I have this follower rest that I purchased for my Heavy10 Southbend. It was sold to me as a Heavy 10 rest. 

But, I don’t think it is correct. Is it for a 10L or maybe a 9?  


--
Jim B


Re: Heavy 10 Follower Rest?

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

Lots of lathes used that style of follower rest.  Are there any casting numbers/letters
you can discern?  Is there by chance a unit code stamped on the machined area
around the mounting slots?

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: SB 9A project completed

Andrei
 

Excellent work, Mike.

Typos are courtesy of autocorrect.


From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> on behalf of mby852 via groups.io <mby852@...>
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2021 5:41:54 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] SB 9A project completed
 
Hi all,
Thought I'd share some pic's of my 3 month on and off refurb of my 9A. Tore it down to every last nut and bolt. Put in new felts & wicks. Polished all the parts that I could. I had a new Dayton 1/2 hp motor sitting around for a long time that I put on. Tore the cabinet apart and painted it and installed a new top. It's quiet and smooth and runs great! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Looking forward to making some things. Also Thanks to those who answered a few questions along the way. 
 
Mike


Re: Heavy 10 Follower Rest?

John Dammeyer
 

This is the follower that fits my Heavy10L.
John Dammeyer



Sent from my Samsung S10


-------- Original message --------
From: Filson <dcox1032@...>
Date: 2021-02-12 7:00 p.m. (GMT-08:00)
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Heavy 10 Follower Rest?

I have this follower rest that I purchased for my Heavy10 Southbend. It was sold to me as a Heavy 10 rest. 

But, I don’t think it is correct. Is it for a 10L or maybe a 9?  

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