Date   

18" ??? For sale in Mich. Cheap !

Todd
 

Saw this F.B. add and thought it was a great deal for someone. I wasn't aware they made an 18", but here it is..

 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/413986266517288/?ref=facebook_story_share


Re: Heavy Ten Gib for Cross Slide

m. allan noah
 

If Ted does not have one, I have one I bought from him that I am not
going to use. Let me know if you are interested.

allan

On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 12:19 PM glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:

Contact Ted. (Latheman2@...)

He will likely have the parts you need.

Glenn B.




On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:15 PM, kmetzloff@... wrote:

Hello all. I just inherited a south bend heavy ten lathe with turret and lots of other goodies except that it is missing the cross slide tapered Gibb.
serial number is 2507RKX9 think its around a 1949 or so?
Its a ton of messing around to make one so:
1. I would gladly buy one if anyone had one for sale new or used.
2. If someone would give me a print with dimensions on it that would make my day!
3. If someone would take pity on me and measure their cross slide gib accurately you would be my hero!
4. I will have to try to measure the carriage to find the dimensions and 3d print many copies of them to get an idea what the dimensions might be.
5. I will have to make one with all of the associated jigs and fixtures etc.

Please help I know its just under 7 inches and has a notch for the gib screw.
Please email at kmetzloff@... if you can help also post as others might want to know also.
Ill post pics if I have to make one.

--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"


Re: Heavy Ten Gib for Cross Slide

Davis Johnson
 

For a 9-abc or 10k plenty have done it. There is an excellent pictorial on practical machinist where Paula (who does things scary good) machines the Metal Lathe Accessories T-slot cross slide:

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/machining-t-slotted-cross-slide-177054/

As part of this project she makes a gib.

By the way, I recommend all of her project narratives on Practical Machinist. You will need to block out some time.

For a 10L or R, or probably most of the larger lathes the gib is tapered and would be a bigger deal to make. I would have to put some thought into how to measure it accurately. Measuring tapered things takes care.

On 1/16/21 12:35 PM, Guenther Paul wrote:
Have ever thought about making a gib?????????????

GP


On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 12:19:06 PM EST, glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:


Contact Ted.   (Latheman2@...)

He will likely have the parts you need.

Glenn B.




On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:15 PM, kmetzloff@... wrote:

Hello all.  I just inherited a south bend heavy ten lathe with turret and lots of other goodies except that it is missing the cross slide tapered Gibb.
serial number is 2507RKX9 think its around a 1949 or so?
Its a ton of messing around to make one so:
1. I would gladly buy one if anyone had one for sale new or used.
2. If someone would give me a print with dimensions on it that would make my day!
3. If someone would take pity on me and measure their cross slide gib accurately you would be my hero!
4. I will have to try to measure the carriage to find the dimensions and 3d print many copies of them to get an idea what the dimensions might be.
5. I will have to make one with all of the associated jigs and fixtures etc.

Please help I know its just under 7 inches and has a notch for the gib screw.
Please email at kmetzloff@... if you can help also post as others might want to know also.  
Ill post pics if I have to make one.


Re: Heavy Ten Gib for Cross Slide

Guenther Paul
 

Have ever thought about making a gib?????????????

GP


On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 12:19:06 PM EST, glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...> wrote:


Contact Ted.   (Latheman2@...)

He will likely have the parts you need.

Glenn B.




On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:15 PM, kmetzloff@... wrote:

Hello all.  I just inherited a south bend heavy ten lathe with turret and lots of other goodies except that it is missing the cross slide tapered Gibb.
serial number is 2507RKX9 think its around a 1949 or so?
Its a ton of messing around to make one so:
1. I would gladly buy one if anyone had one for sale new or used.
2. If someone would give me a print with dimensions on it that would make my day!
3. If someone would take pity on me and measure their cross slide gib accurately you would be my hero!
4. I will have to try to measure the carriage to find the dimensions and 3d print many copies of them to get an idea what the dimensions might be.
5. I will have to make one with all of the associated jigs and fixtures etc.

Please help I know its just under 7 inches and has a notch for the gib screw.
Please email at kmetzloff@... if you can help also post as others might want to know also.  
Ill post pics if I have to make one.


Re: Heavy Ten Gib for Cross Slide

glenn brooks <brooks.glenn@...>
 

Contact Ted.   (Latheman2@...)

He will likely have the parts you need.

Glenn B.




On Jan 15, 2021, at 11:15 PM, kmetzloff@... wrote:

Hello all.  I just inherited a south bend heavy ten lathe with turret and lots of other goodies except that it is missing the cross slide tapered Gibb.
serial number is 2507RKX9 think its around a 1949 or so?
Its a ton of messing around to make one so:
1. I would gladly buy one if anyone had one for sale new or used.
2. If someone would give me a print with dimensions on it that would make my day!
3. If someone would take pity on me and measure their cross slide gib accurately you would be my hero!
4. I will have to try to measure the carriage to find the dimensions and 3d print many copies of them to get an idea what the dimensions might be.
5. I will have to make one with all of the associated jigs and fixtures etc.

Please help I know its just under 7 inches and has a notch for the gib screw.
Please email at kmetzloff@... if you can help also post as others might want to know also.  
Ill post pics if I have to make one.


Heavy Ten Gib for Cross Slide

Kyle Metzloff
 

Hello all.  I just inherited a south bend heavy ten lathe with turret and lots of other goodies except that it is missing the cross slide tapered Gibb.
serial number is 2507RKX9 think its around a 1949 or so?
Its a ton of messing around to make one so:
1. I would gladly buy one if anyone had one for sale new or used.
2. If someone would give me a print with dimensions on it that would make my day!
3. If someone would take pity on me and measure their cross slide gib accurately you would be my hero!
4. I will have to try to measure the carriage to find the dimensions and 3d print many copies of them to get an idea what the dimensions might be.
5. I will have to make one with all of the associated jigs and fixtures etc.

Please help I know its just under 7 inches and has a notch for the gib screw.
Please email at kmetzloff@... if you can help also post as others might want to know also.  
Ill post pics if I have to make one.


Re: Metric thread dial

John Dammeyer
 

Or just install my ELS kit.  
John  

sent from John's new S10

On Jan. 3, 2021 5:06 p.m., "Ondrej Krejci via groups.io" <okrejci@...> wrote:

Howdy,

In the primordial days of thread cutting on lathes, a hole would be drilled where the cutting bit would stop and it would be timed accordingly.  Early threading lathes were hand cranked so stopping was not a problem.  With powered lathes, one would stop short, disengage the belt, and manually turn over the spindle, via the driven pulley.  Such operations do not work well with TC tooling.

Threading dials are mainly on Imperial lathes, the one advantage of the inch.  I have seen only one metric lathe with a threading dial in thirty years.  If threading away from the headstock were possible, the half nut would still have to remain engaged and one would have to run the tool past the shoulder in forward, then manually crank the lathe in reverse to take up slack and bring the tool to the starting position and feed the tool in for the next pass.  Even with a modern lathe, geared drive and instantaneous stop and reverse, any larger quantity of such threading would become tedious.  My suggestions are die threading, using a chasing head, or building a thread milling set-up, listed in increasing cost.

Good Luck!


OK



Re: Metric thread dial

Ondrej Krejci
 

Howdy,

In the primordial days of thread cutting on lathes, a hole would be drilled where the cutting bit would stop and it would be timed accordingly.  Early threading lathes were hand cranked so stopping was not a problem.  With powered lathes, one would stop short, disengage the belt, and manually turn over the spindle, via the driven pulley.  Such operations do not work well with TC tooling.

Threading dials are mainly on Imperial lathes, the one advantage of the inch.  I have seen only one metric lathe with a threading dial in thirty years.  If threading away from the headstock were possible, the half nut would still have to remain engaged and one would have to run the tool past the shoulder in forward, then manually crank the lathe in reverse to take up slack and bring the tool to the starting position and feed the tool in for the next pass.  Even with a modern lathe, geared drive and instantaneous stop and reverse, any larger quantity of such threading would become tedious.  My suggestions are die threading, using a chasing head, or building a thread milling set-up, listed in increasing cost.

Good Luck!


OK


Re: Metric Thread Dial

Colin Fera
 



I thread metric and imperial and don’t even have a functional thread dial. I always disengage the half nut.  As pointed out in the video below you don’t even need a reversing switch.


Procedure: 

1. Put the lathe in gear in a location where you are able to engage the half nut to begin threading and take up the slack in the gearing by bumping the switch in foreword.
2. Mark a line with a marker or grease pen on the headstock (chuck or spindle to the headstock), the bed (position of carriage) and lead screw. The point of these lines is so that you can re engage at the same point. A carriage stop or dial indicator would also work for the carriage.
3. Make a threading pass
4. Bring the carriage back to your carriage starting line or stop. 
5. Turn the spindle by hand (or by bumping the motor switch) until both the lead screw and spindle indexing marks line up engage the half nut.
6. Make the next pass and repeat until done.

This works for any thread pitch, metric or standard on any lathe. Depending on minimum spindle speed it may even be possible to engage the half nut with the large running by visually lining up the marks.



On Jan 3, 2021, at 12:31, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:


OK, I'll bite. How much does one cost? You're evil, Ted! ;)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 02:29:14 PM CST, sblatheman via groups.io <latheman2@...> wrote:


There is such a thing as IN/METRIC thread dial 

<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>


Ted
<image.jpg>
<image.jpg>


Re: Metric Thread Dial

clive_foster@talk21.com
 

Re-engaging the half nuts at the same position on the bed using a suitable stop and at the same thread dial number won't work when cutting metric threads with an imperial leadscrew.

The rotational alignment of spindle and leadscrew have to be maintained as well as longitudinal (distance along the bed) alignment if the next pass is to correspond with the previous one. Theoretically possible if you wait long enough but it could be hundreds, maybe even thousands, of spindle turns before sufficiently accurate alignment recurs. Its a matter of common integer factors between screw pitches and gear ratios. Telling the difference between darn close but no cigar and dead nuts right would be challenging.

The practical answer is to use a single tooth dog clutch in the drive from spindle to drop gear train. The clutch disengages at the end of each threading pass and stops the leadscrew. Because the screw is stopped the half nuts can be re-engaged at any position along the bed without loosing longitudinal feed alignment. As the dog clutch has only one tooth and is directly geared to the spindle rotational alignment is maintained because it always picks up the drive at the same spindle position.

My big lathe, a P&W Model B 12 x 32, has this system. It has a quick withdraw on the cross slide feed too. Threading is almost too easy. Whacked out a left hand 5/16 x 24 UN thread this afternoon at 250 rpm "just like that". Only easier way would be my Coventry Die Head. No way am I buying dies for one job tho', but I do have most of the smaller sizes so screw-cutting is rare for me now.

Clive


Re: Metric Thread Dial

sblatheman
 

There is such a thing as IN/METRIC thread dial 



Ted
_._,_._,_


Re: Metric thread dial

Bill in OKC too
 

That is the video I saw! Two of my three lathes, however, have screw-on chucks. I am looking at drilling & tapping the chucks to use a set-screw and brass shoe to try to lock the threads when I want them locked. Not sure how well that will work, but SB has a patent drawing I've seen for something similar. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 02:29:32 PM CST, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:


Get yourself a left-hand threading tool. Turn it upside down on the tool post. Run the lathe in reverse and cut the thread towards the tail stock. Should not do this with a threaded-on chuck.

 

Here is a video from Joe Pi demonstrating it.

(29) Threading on a manual lathe BEST TECHNIQUE EVER !!!! - YouTube

Al

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of William Nelson
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 2:36 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Metric thread dial

 

Almost every thread I cut is to a shoulder. How do you go about that if you can't disengage the halfnuts? Do you stop the lathe some distance from the shoulder hoping you stop in time or stop far enough to not crash and then hand turn the spindle to get to the shoulder? Perhaps this would be a good operation for left to right threading? I have had the occasion where I would have loved to metric thread but don't have the gears. Maybe in the future. 

Bill form Socal


Re: Metric Thread Dial

Bill in OKC too
 

OK, I'll bite. How much does one cost? You're evil, Ted! ;)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 02:29:14 PM CST, sblatheman via groups.io <latheman2@...> wrote:


There is such a thing as IN/METRIC thread dial 



Ted


Re: Metric thread dial

ww_big_al
 

Get yourself a left-hand threading tool. Turn it upside down on the tool post. Run the lathe in reverse and cut the thread towards the tail stock. Should not do this with a threaded-on chuck.

 

Here is a video from Joe Pi demonstrating it.

(29) Threading on a manual lathe BEST TECHNIQUE EVER !!!! - YouTube

Al

 

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of William Nelson
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2021 2:36 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Metric thread dial

 

Almost every thread I cut is to a shoulder. How do you go about that if you can't disengage the halfnuts? Do you stop the lathe some distance from the shoulder hoping you stop in time or stop far enough to not crash and then hand turn the spindle to get to the shoulder? Perhaps this would be a good operation for left to right threading? I have had the occasion where I would have loved to metric thread but don't have the gears. Maybe in the future. 

Bill form Socal


Re: Metric Thread Dial

sblatheman
 

There is such a thing as IN/METRIC thread dial 



Ted
_._,_._,_


Re: Metric Thread Dial

Bill in OKC too
 

That should work fine, IF you have a reverse switch. My TH42 does not. Isn't a problem for the Heavy 10L yet, as it's not assembled, so when I get close to that, I can start hunting a reversing switch. As they say, YMMV. I'm looking for a reversing switch for the Atlas, but haven't had the intersection of available money and a proper switch happen yet. Some day, if I live long enough... 

Having all the different ways that a job can be done is a good thing, though! Just because I can't make it work just yet doesn't make it not good. Thanks for posting this, too!

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 01:42:13 PM CST, Dallas <dallas@...> wrote:


I’ve cut dozens of metric threads on both my Southbend and Atlas lathes. You don’t need metric change gears, metric lead screw or even a thread dial at all.  

Find a gear combination that gives you close to the metric lead you need (.5mm, .75mm, 1mm etc) you can calculate these, but the closest gear combinations are published or there are PC programs that will tell you.

Install the gear combination on your lathe to produce the desired lead (.5mm/revolution etc)

Turn your stock to the correct major diameter

Turn a short section to the minor thread diameter on the left end of the threaded section. You need this to let the lathe stop and not hog into the stock at the end of each cut.

Put the lathe in the slowest belt pulley combination and engage the back gear.  You are looking for the slowest chuck rotation & carriage movement.

Carriage should move toward the headstock when the the chuck  is rotating normally (top coming toward yo)

Adjust compound cross feed to be 29-1/2 degrees (assuming standard 60 degree thread)

Set up a single point thread cutting tool on center, perpendicular to the work piece, with point just touching workpiece. To do this set the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL on Zero first then use the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE to move the tool in until it just touches the workpiece.


Move carriage past the right end of the workpiece.

Using the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE handle dial in a small cut (0.001 inch)

close the half nuts and NEVER TOUCH THIS HANDLE AGAIN until you are totally finished

Turn the ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH ON FORWARD to begin forward rotation with cutter moving toward the headstock. 

The cutter should make a light cut and you should see your thread stripe appear.

when the cut is nearing the end and is approaching your minor diameter relief cut, Turn the ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH OFF and let the lathe coast to a stop in the relief area.

Using the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL move the tool away from the workpiece by turning the handle one complete turn from zero, one turn out and back to zero.  You have moved your tool away from the work one turn of the main cross slide

Turn the 
ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH TO REVERSE.  Allow the tool to move to the right until it is past the right end of the workpiece.  Approximately where you started.

Using the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL move the tool back toward the workpiece by turning the handle one complete turn from zero, one turn IN and back to zero.  You now moved your cross slide back where we started.


Using the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE dial in the next cut (approximately 0.005)

Make the second cut as before, stopping in the runout area. Move the tool out one turn main compound, reverse motor to beginning, move main compound in, dial in third cut etc. repeat this until your thread is complete. You can continue to cut until you hit your minor diameter.  You can also check fit with a nut or mating piece with part still in the lathe.

leaving the half nuts closed all the time ensured the timing of the gear train is correct. 

Dallas Shell



Re: Metric thread dial

Bill in OKC too
 

You can cut threads to driving the carriage from left to right, i.e, towards the tailstock, too. Eliminates the problem. Saw it mentioned on one of the many groups I belong to just a few days ago, IIRC. Could not tell you exactly how, off hand, but I think you'd use a rear tool post with the cutter upside down. I'll see if I can find it. 

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)


A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)





On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 01:37:11 PM CST, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:


Almost every thread I cut is to a shoulder. How do you go about that if you can't disengage the halfnuts? Do you stop the lathe some distance from the shoulder hoping you stop in time or stop far enough to not crash and then hand turn the spindle to get to the shoulder? Perhaps this would be a good operation for left to right threading? I have had the occasion where I would have loved to metric thread but don't have the gears. Maybe in the future. 

Bill form Socal


Re: Metric thread dial

m. allan noah
 

You CAN disengage the half-nuts when cutting a thread whose type does
not match the thread dial. But, you must then immediately stop the
lathe, and run it in reverse. Then re-engage the half-nuts on the
original mark, and run the tool back out of the thread. See the bottom
of this page for more info.
http://conradhoffman.com/metricthreading.htm

allan

On Sun, Jan 3, 2021 at 2:37 PM William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:

Almost every thread I cut is to a shoulder. How do you go about that if you can't disengage the halfnuts? Do you stop the lathe some distance from the shoulder hoping you stop in time or stop far enough to not crash and then hand turn the spindle to get to the shoulder? Perhaps this would be a good operation for left to right threading? I have had the occasion where I would have loved to metric thread but don't have the gears. Maybe in the future.

Bill form Socal
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"


Re: Metric Thread Dial

Dallas
 

I’ve cut dozens of metric threads on both my Southbend and Atlas lathes. You don’t need metric change gears, metric lead screw or even a thread dial at all.  

Find a gear combination that gives you close to the metric lead you need (.5mm, .75mm, 1mm etc) you can calculate these, but the closest gear combinations are published or there are PC programs that will tell you.

Install the gear combination on your lathe to produce the desired lead (.5mm/revolution etc)

Turn your stock to the correct major diameter

Turn a short section to the minor thread diameter on the left end of the threaded section. You need this to let the lathe stop and not hog into the stock at the end of each cut.

Put the lathe in the slowest belt pulley combination and engage the back gear.  You are looking for the slowest chuck rotation & carriage movement.

Carriage should move toward the headstock when the the chuck  is rotating normally (top coming toward yo)

Adjust compound cross feed to be 29-1/2 degrees (assuming standard 60 degree thread)

Set up a single point thread cutting tool on center, perpendicular to the work piece, with point just touching workpiece. To do this set the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL on Zero first then use the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE to move the tool in until it just touches the workpiece.


Move carriage past the right end of the workpiece.

Using the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE handle dial in a small cut (0.001 inch)

close the half nuts and NEVER TOUCH THIS HANDLE AGAIN until you are totally finished

Turn the ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH ON FORWARD to begin forward rotation with cutter moving toward the headstock. 

The cutter should make a light cut and you should see your thread stripe appear.

when the cut is nearing the end and is approaching your minor diameter relief cut, Turn the ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH OFF and let the lathe coast to a stop in the relief area.

Using the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL move the tool away from the workpiece by turning the handle one complete turn from zero, one turn out and back to zero.  You have moved your tool away from the work one turn of the main cross slide

Turn the 
ELECTRIC POWER SWITCH TO REVERSE.  Allow the tool to move to the right until it is past the right end of the workpiece.  Approximately where you started.

Using the MAIN CROSS SLIDE DIAL move the tool back toward the workpiece by turning the handle one complete turn from zero, one turn IN and back to zero.  You now moved your cross slide back where we started.


Using the COMPOUND CROSS SLIDE dial in the next cut (approximately 0.005)

Make the second cut as before, stopping in the runout area. Move the tool out one turn main compound, reverse motor to beginning, move main compound in, dial in third cut etc. repeat this until your thread is complete. You can continue to cut until you hit your minor diameter.  You can also check fit with a nut or mating piece with part still in the lathe.

leaving the half nuts closed all the time ensured the timing of the gear train is correct. 

Dallas Shell



Re: Metric thread dial

William Nelson
 

Almost every thread I cut is to a shoulder. How do you go about that if you can't disengage the halfnuts? Do you stop the lathe some distance from the shoulder hoping you stop in time or stop far enough to not crash and then hand turn the spindle to get to the shoulder? Perhaps this would be a good operation for left to right threading? I have had the occasion where I would have loved to metric thread but don't have the gears. Maybe in the future. 

Bill form Socal

2781 - 2800 of 106455