Date   

Re: 10L Clutch problem

eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

And v v.  This is not just a SB feature.  A mechanical interlock to prevent simultaneious engagement of geared feed at the same time as leadscrew feed has been present on every lathe I have ever used.  (Colchester, Harrison, Broadbent, Dean Smith & Grace, Somua, Little John, Holbrook, and others I can't recall.)  It is normal and expected.

I think if Michael's clutch is stuck engaged despite the adjustment screw being free to move, or if the 3 position lever is stuck fast, dismantling to investigate beckons.

Eddie

On Sunday, 19 April 2020, 00:16:09 BST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:


There is an interlock that prevents engaging the half-nuts if the “compound travel” lever is in the left-right or in-out position.

 

Don

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jim_B
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 5:41 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Clutch problem

 

 



On Apr 18, 2020, at 4:10 PM, Michael R via groups.io <reflexermr@...> wrote:

 

but I can't do any single point threading because the clutch is inoperable.

 

The clutch is not used for threading. It is only used for turning. 

For threading the three position lever to the right of the clutch should be in the middle position and the half nuts are engaged with the lever on the fr right. 

 

Where is your three position lever?

 

 

 

Jim B.

 

 

 


--
Jim B


Re: 10L Clutch problem

Davis Johnson
 

Also, when you move any lever that engages gears you usually need to turn the spindle by hand to get the gears to line up.

On 4/18/20 7:15 PM, Don Verdiani via groups.io wrote:

There is an interlock that prevents engaging the half-nuts if the “compound travel” lever is in the left-right or in-out position.

 

Don

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jim_B
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 5:41 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Clutch problem

 

 



On Apr 18, 2020, at 4:10 PM, Michael R via groups.io <reflexermr@...> wrote:

 

but I can't do any single point threading because the clutch is inoperable.

 

The clutch is not used for threading. It is only used for turning. 

For threading the three position lever to the right of the clutch should be in the middle position and the half nuts are engaged with the lever on the fr right. 

 

Where is your three position lever?

 

 

 

Jim B.

 

 

 


--
Jim B


Re: 10L Clutch problem

Don Verdiani
 

There is an interlock that prevents engaging the half-nuts if the “compound travel” lever is in the left-right or in-out position.

 

Don

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jim_B
Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2020 5:41 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 10L Clutch problem

 

 



On Apr 18, 2020, at 4:10 PM, Michael R via groups.io <reflexermr@...> wrote:

 

but I can't do any single point threading because the clutch is inoperable.

 

The clutch is not used for threading. It is only used for turning. 

For threading the three position lever to the right of the clutch should be in the middle position and the half nuts are engaged with the lever on the fr right. 

 

Where is your three position lever?

 

 

 

Jim B.

 

 

 


--
Jim B


Re: 10L Clutch problem

Jim_B
 



On Apr 18, 2020, at 4:10 PM, Michael R via groups.io <reflexermr@...> wrote:

but I can't do any single point threading because the clutch is inoperable.

The clutch is not used for threading. It is only used for turning. 
For threading the three position lever to the right of the clutch should be in the middle position and the half nuts are engaged with the lever on the fr right. 

Where is your three position lever?



Jim B.





--
Jim B


Re: 10L Clutch problem

mike allen
 

            is it the clutch on the apron ? double check online for if the screw that holds the clutch Knob is left or right hand . I know on the 9" its a left hand thread

        animal

On 4/18/2020 10:25 AM, Michael R via groups.io wrote:
The clutch on my 10L is locked in the engaged position. The clutch shaft doesn't move either in or out when the handle is either engaged or disengaged.
How much movement the shaft should have from one to the other position when it's working properly?

I wanted to exhaust any 'simple' fixes before more drastic steps were taken. I hoped it was an adjustment issue but any adjustments I made didn't help.
So far what I've found on the forum hasn't addressed this particular issue.

I thought I'd put it out in the forum for ideas of what to look for and possible causes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
Michael


Re: 10L Clutch problem

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

Which type of clutch do you have (star knob or lever)?

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: 10L Clutch problem

Michael R
 

Not the back gear.
I have longitudinal movement using the feed change lever for turning but I can't do any single point threading because the clutch is inoperable.
Michael


Re: 10L Clutch problem

glenn brooks
 

Are you talking about engaging/disengaging  the back gear to move from hi speeds to low speeds?

If so, perhaps the pin or shaft is simply jammed up with dried oil.  Very common occurrence.  Try spraying/soaking the pin and gear assembly with some diesel , penetrating oil, or even WD 40.  Work it a bit, soak some more, see what happens after the gunk drains out.

Glenn


On Apr 18, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Michael R via groups.io <reflexermr@...> wrote:

The clutch on my 10L is locked in the engaged position. The clutch shaft doesn't move either in or out when the handle is either engaged or disengaged.
How much movement the shaft should have from one to the other position when it's working properly?

I wanted to exhaust any 'simple' fixes before more drastic steps were taken. I hoped it was an adjustment issue but any adjustments I made didn't help.
So far what I've found on the forum hasn't addressed this particular issue.

I thought I'd put it out in the forum for ideas of what to look for and possible causes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
Michael


10L Clutch problem

Michael R
 

The clutch on my 10L is locked in the engaged position. The clutch shaft doesn't move either in or out when the handle is either engaged or disengaged.
How much movement the shaft should have from one to the other position when it's working properly?

I wanted to exhaust any 'simple' fixes before more drastic steps were taken. I hoped it was an adjustment issue but any adjustments I made didn't help.
So far what I've found on the forum hasn't addressed this particular issue.

I thought I'd put it out in the forum for ideas of what to look for and possible causes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
Michael


Re: Old Machine restorations

Roger Bickers
 

Guenther,  why not just lead it? Itll definitely take the temperature fluctuations better if your shop areas only heated part time in the winter. 


On Sat, Apr 18, 2020 at 10:09 AM, Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...> wrote:
I have a 16" south bend that i bean working on for a while. I need to step up the process and get her done. I have one question about the finish on the main machine casting. When i stripped the paint some of the putty that was used came of.
Back years ago flour and shellac was used to get the casting smooth. I bean using light weight bondo but i have not stripped all the old stuff of. Will the bondo hold on the old stuff. I would like your input please. I do use the lathe only for bigger items    


Re: Old Machine restorations

Guenther Paul
 

I have a 16" south bend that i bean working on for a while. I need to step up the process and get her done. I have one question about the finish on the main machine casting. When i stripped the paint some of the putty that was used came of.
Back years ago flour and shellac was used to get the casting smooth. I bean using light weight bondo but i have not stripped all the old stuff of. Will the bondo hold on the old stuff. I would like your input please. I do use the lathe only for bigger items    


Old Machine restorations

John Milton <togger.me@...>
 

I have setup a new group.io page exclusively for sharing our restorations of old machines. Hopefully it will be filled with advice, tips, sources for hard to locate parts, identification of machinery or year and to showcase or document your work. Please consider joining as your experience will no doubt be invaluable. 
Please also share with your friends and other like minded people.

https://groups.io/g/OldMachineRestorations

See you there and thank you


Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

glenn brooks
 

You could easily have a new leadscrew and half nut made up for your lathe. Buying anything used will almost insure you are buying something run out beyond useful life.

Anyway, I’ve purchased a cross feed screw and nut from mIller Machine and Fabrication for my SB Fourteen and was very satisfied. precision, very well done work.

Robert Miller,


Glenn Brooks 




On Apr 8, 2020, at 10:47 AM, Mark Moulding <mark@...> wrote:

I don't think this lathe has been tinkered with at all - it has all of the original wrenches, change gears, face plate, centers, and even the book.  And anyway, the one thing that couldn't possibly have been changed out is the bed itself, since as Davis points out that's where the serial number is.  I'm just quite surprised to find that it doesn't match the serial number data card (and also that my dad would have sprung for the additional $12 to get the longer bed - he didn't have much money at the time).

So I guess I'm in the market for a leadscrew for a 3-1/2' bed model 9B - I hope that doesn't turn out to be a hen's tooth.  Since it would be a learning experience, I'm not quite confident enough to potentially destroy my only lead screw by attempting to modify it, when I don't have another available as a backup.  I'll keep my eBay search active...
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear


Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Mark Moulding
 

I don't think this lathe has been tinkered with at all - it has all of the original wrenches, change gears, face plate, centers, and even the book.  And anyway, the one thing that couldn't possibly have been changed out is the bed itself, since as Davis points out that's where the serial number is.  I'm just quite surprised to find that it doesn't match the serial number data card (and also that my dad would have sprung for the additional $12 to get the longer bed - he didn't have much money at the time).

So I guess I'm in the market for a leadscrew for a 3-1/2' bed model 9B - I hope that doesn't turn out to be a hen's tooth.  Since it would be a learning experience, I'm not quite confident enough to potentially destroy my only lead screw by attempting to modify it, when I don't have another available as a backup.  I'll keep my eBay search active...
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear


Re: And Now For Something Completely Different

Rangelov
 

That should fit Dorian as well.

From memory (1800 mi. from home), Dorian CXA tool holder uses a 3/8" adjusting stud.


Re: And Now For Something Completely Different

ww_big_al
 

Put those up on eBay and I bet they would sell like hotcakes. Aloris wants a fortune. Looks good.

Al

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io <SouthBendLathe@groups.io> On Behalf Of wlw19958
Sent: Tuesday, April 7, 2020 6:58 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] And Now For Something Completely Different

 

Hi There,

I hope all of you are well and bearing up during this pandemic.
Being stuck at home does have its advantages.  I've been working
on making some dies for a special project.  I have some Aloris 
tool blocks that were missing the post and related hardware. 
The threaded post and knurled disc were not difficult to make.
The special spline washer was the only thing I didn't have.  So,
I have been making the dies to produce it.

First, I made a blanking die to make the blank disc.



Then, I made a piercing die to make the following:



So now I can make that special spline washer.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


And Now For Something Completely Different

wlw19958
 

Hi There,

I hope all of you are well and bearing up during this pandemic.
Being stuck at home does have its advantages.  I've been working
on making some dies for a special project.  I have some Aloris 
tool blocks that were missing the post and related hardware. 
The threaded post and knurled disc were not difficult to make.
The special spline washer was the only thing I didn't have.  So,
I have been making the dies to produce it.

First, I made a blanking die to make the blank disc.



Then, I made a piercing die to make the following:



So now I can make that special spline washer.

Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb


Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Davis Johnson
 

Information on tags is subject to being wrong due to parts-swaps over the decade. For example, the catalog number on the quick-change gearbox chart on my 9A is wrong. It is quite likely that somebody swapped the gearbox some time in the last 80 years.

But the serial number is stamped on the bed, and you got the serial number card. It sounds like a clerical error back when it was built.

On 4/6/20 2:12 PM, Thomas Harrold via groups.io wrote:

My 9C bed measures about 36.5" (overall bed length)

 

Maybe your lathe is actually a 3.5' bed, and it's mis-marked?

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Moulding
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2020 1:27 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

 

Thanks for checking, George.  That makes for a bit of a mystery, though...  I believe this lathe to be completely stock, with all of the original parts it came with (even the "How To Run A Lathe" book), and the serial number card (I ponyed up the $25 to order it from Grizzly) shows it as a 9"x3'.  Considering my Dad's economic situation at the time, I would have expected hi to get the absolute cheapest model available, which this is in every other way (6-speed, model 'C').  So, why does the bed measure 42" (that's overall, end-to-end, from the left side of the headstock to the far right end)?  Are we measuring the same place?

(My lathe is in a storage unit about 3 miles away, so I can't go measure it at the moment.  Getting the length of the lead-screw would be a telling measurement  - I'll try to get over there later today.)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear


Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

Thomas Harrold
 

My 9C bed measures about 36.5" (overall bed length)

 

Maybe your lathe is actually a 3.5' bed, and it's mis-marked?

 

From: SouthBendLathe@groups.io [mailto:SouthBendLathe@groups.io] On Behalf Of Mark Moulding
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2020 1:27 PM
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to

 

Thanks for checking, George.  That makes for a bit of a mystery, though...  I believe this lathe to be completely stock, with all of the original parts it came with (even the "How To Run A Lathe" book), and the serial number card (I ponyed up the $25 to order it from Grizzly) shows it as a 9"x3'.  Considering my Dad's economic situation at the time, I would have expected hi to get the absolute cheapest model available, which this is in every other way (6-speed, model 'C').  So, why does the bed measure 42" (that's overall, end-to-end, from the left side of the headstock to the far right end)?  Are we measuring the same place?

(My lathe is in a storage unit about 3 miles away, so I can't go measure it at the moment.  Getting the length of the lead-screw would be a telling measurement  - I'll try to get over there later today.)
~~

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear


Re: How to

carbure2003
 

On my 9A and 10K UMD I suspend the drive assembly to a ceiling beam with a small block and tackle, through a rope going through the belt path in the headstock and release the pivot bolts.  Then I use the tension on the rope IN order to move it around and get it out of the cabinet.


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "glenn brooks" <brooks.glenn@...>
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] How to
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 10:44:54 -0700

Actually it’s pretty simple. Take off both access plates on the cabinet.  With a cabinet mount, just loosen the tensioning bar on the right side of the mounting plate and drop the mount and plate down to the floor. Support with a 2x4 piece if necessary. Then snake in to the plate with a box end wrench and take out the mounting screws. 

 
Hardest part for me was pulling the motor out of the cabinet.
 
Re install the new motor same way, drop the plate down to the motor, bolt it together, then pull up to reattach the belt.
 
Glenn

 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:34 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io <stoeger666@...> wrote:

 
tool room I believe, the motor is under and hangs upside down (base upwards) the motor is very large and heavy.
 
On Wednesday, 1 April 2020, 19:18:25 EEST, Nathan Baynes <natebaynes@...> wrote:
 
 
If it’s an underdrive with the motor hanging from above,  how about you tell us!!  It is a real bear!!  I just hung a 1 HP single phase in mine....  fingers and knuckles still hurt!!  But for my two cents, I had it propped on some wood scraps, then used a pair of motorcycle ratcheting tie down straps..  one at each end of the motor and up and around the spindle pulley and  then slowly tightened it up into position to get the bolts started through the mounting plate.....  worked pretty well and could probably be done in reverse...
Nate 

 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 12:10 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

            I don't know what lathe ya have , but on my 9A I just remove the belt & tension rod & lay the motor assembly back till it stops & then unbolt the motor

            animal

On 4/1/2020 7:35 AM, Fred Flintstone via Groups.Io wrote:
Hello all,
 
I hope everyone is staying well,
 
I have never had to pull the motor from my lathe before, but now I need to change the bearings. I have the V belts off, and the adjustment screw out, but how do i pull the motor and plate with out smashing my hand and/or a motor cradle of some sort? I see the pivot rod, which looks like I just push out, but how do i support the weight etc. If this is somewhere in the archives I am not seeing it, so excuse my question here.
 
Thank you,
Mark