Date   
Re: Precision level needed or not?

Stephen Bartlett
 

Is it possible to discern whether a measurement difference between ends of an alignment bar is due to tailstock misalignment or bed twist?

I guess the first thing is to get the tailstock alignment correct with the tailstock right at at the headstock.

When I got my lathe back about 1968 it had very little bed wear and I have not put too many miles on it.

In practice I have never paid much attention to twist because I do not generally work with long stock. Years ago I borrowed a precision level from work and leveled the bed. I moved in 1985 and since the bed had an adjustable tail end base I just loosened the set screws to let it settle out and then snugged them again, tightening each a little at a time, back and forth. It is on a heavy steel cabinet.

I looked at the Edge Technology web site. Much of their product line is affordable for a hobby situation.

Steve Bartlett


From: Steven H
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:09:02 EDT

What you are describing - an alignment bar placed between centers - is one way of checking and setting the tailstock alignment both horizontally and vertically. These alignment bars are commercially available - Edge Technology makes one that is 12??? long. Don???t know if such an item could be used to check for lathe bed twist, but if the idea would work, the bar should be max length the lathe can hold between centers.

Steve Haskell

Re: Precision level needed or not?

Steven H
 

Another fellow earlier today said no, an alignment bar between centers won’t do for determining bed twist. Would just be useful for tailstock alignment. A check of eBay shows precision machinists levels starting at less than $30, but “you usually get what you pay for”.

Steve Haskell

On Jun 14, 2019, at 9:32 PM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Is it possible to discern whether a measurement difference between ends of an alignment bar is due to tailstock misalignment or bed twist?

I guess the first thing is to get the tailstock alignment correct with the tailstock right at at the headstock.

When I got my lathe back about 1968 it had very little bed wear and I have not put too many miles on it.

In practice I have never paid much attention to twist because I do not generally work with long stock. Years ago I borrowed a precision level from work and leveled the bed. I moved in 1985 and since the bed had an adjustable tail end base I just loosened the set screws to let it settle out and then snugged them again, tightening each a little at a time, back and forth. It is on a heavy steel cabinet.

I looked at the Edge Technology web site. Much of their product line is affordable for a hobby situation.

Steve Bartlett


From: Steven H
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:09:02 EDT

What you are describing - an alignment bar placed between centers - is one way of checking and setting the tailstock alignment both horizontally and vertically. These alignment bars are commercially available - Edge Technology makes one that is 12??? long. Don???t know if such an item could be used to check for lathe bed twist, but if the idea would work, the bar should be max length the lathe can hold between centers.

Steve Haskell


Re: Precision level needed or not?

eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

Yes, it is possible to determine whether measurement differences between ends of an alignment bar are due to tailstock offset or bed twist.  Betwen centres:  Tailstock offset.  Held in chuck or otherwise directly coupled to the headstock mandrel:  Bed twist.

Mostly!

Eddie

On Saturday, 15 June 2019, 03:13:48 BST, Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


Another fellow earlier today said no, an alignment bar between centers won’t do for determining bed twist. Would just be useful for tailstock alignment. A check of eBay shows precision machinists levels starting at less than $30, but “you usually get what you pay for”.

Steve Haskell
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 9:32 PM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Is it possible to discern whether a measurement difference between ends of an alignment bar is due to tailstock misalignment or bed twist?
>
> I guess the first thing is to get the tailstock alignment correct with the tailstock right at at the headstock.
>
> When I got my lathe back about 1968 it had very little bed wear and I have not put too many miles on it.
>
> In practice I have never paid much attention to twist because I do not generally work with long stock.  Years ago I borrowed a precision level from work and leveled the bed.  I moved in 1985 and since the bed had an adjustable tail end base I just loosened the set screws to let it settle out and then snugged them again, tightening each a little at a time, back and forth.  It is on a heavy steel cabinet.
>
> I looked at the Edge Technology web site.  Much of their product line is affordable for a hobby situation.
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
>
> From: Steven H
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:09:02 EDT
>
> What you are describing - an alignment bar placed between centers - is one way of checking and setting the tailstock alignment both horizontally and vertically. These alignment bars are commercially available - Edge Technology makes one that is 12??? long. Don???t know if such an item could be used to check for lathe bed twist, but if the idea would work, the bar should be max length the lathe can hold between centers.
>
> Steve Haskell
>
>
>



Re: Precision level needed or not?

Jim_B
 

When setting up a lathe to remove twisting you do not EVER use a tailstock. 
Please read “Rollies Dads Method”


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jun 15, 2019, at 1:32 PM, eddie.draper@... via Groups.Io <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Yes, it is possible to determine whether measurement differences between ends of an alignment bar are due to tailstock offset or bed twist.  Betwen centres:  Tailstock offset.  Held in chuck or otherwise directly coupled to the headstock mandrel:  Bed twist.

Mostly!

Eddie

On Saturday, 15 June 2019, 03:13:48 BST, Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


Another fellow earlier today said no, an alignment bar between centers won’t do for determining bed twist. Would just be useful for tailstock alignment. A check of eBay shows precision machinists levels starting at less than $30, but “you usually get what you pay for”.

Steve Haskell
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 9:32 PM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Is it possible to discern whether a measurement difference between ends of an alignment bar is due to tailstock misalignment or bed twist?
>
> I guess the first thing is to get the tailstock alignment correct with the tailstock right at at the headstock.
>
> When I got my lathe back about 1968 it had very little bed wear and I have not put too many miles on it.
>
> In practice I have never paid much attention to twist because I do not generally work with long stock.  Years ago I borrowed a precision level from work and leveled the bed.  I moved in 1985 and since the bed had an adjustable tail end base I just loosened the set screws to let it settle out and then snugged them again, tightening each a little at a time, back and forth.  It is on a heavy steel cabinet.
>
> I looked at the Edge Technology web site.  Much of their product line is affordable for a hobby situation.
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
>
> From: Steven H
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:09:02 EDT
>
> What you are describing - an alignment bar placed between centers - is one way of checking and setting the tailstock alignment both horizontally and vertically. These alignment bars are commercially available - Edge Technology makes one that is 12??? long. Don???t know if such an item could be used to check for lathe bed twist, but if the idea would work, the bar should be max length the lathe can hold between centers.
>
> Steve Haskell
>
>
>





--
Jim B

Re: Precision level needed or not?

glenn brooks
 

What I learned from my old worn out big iron Standard Modern 12” lathe, was that there are really two kinds of bed twist: most common on heavily used, old machines is bed wear - and related machine wear. The other thing is simply uneven flooring, causing the bed casting to sag and twist out of shape over time.  

If your machine exhibits signs of wear from its decades of life, all the parts will be worn in concert with each other - underneath the tail stock, cross slide, bearings, lead screws and of course the ways - likely having the most wear just outside where the chuck sits.  

So the challenge is to straighten the ways to counteract a possible sloping floor, and then, twist the bed to counteract all the wear - eventually finding the sweet spot that most resembles the original true surface of the ways.  

That’s the main reason I like to use a level (and a straight edge). It’s fairly easy to assess various amounts of twist in the different segments of the bed with a level. Hard to do with other methods...

Glenn 


On Jun 15, 2019, at 3:38 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:

When setting up a lathe to remove twisting you do not EVER use a tailstock. 
Please read “Rollies Dads Method”


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jun 15, 2019, at 1:32 PM, eddie.draper@... via Groups.Io <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Yes, it is possible to determine whether measurement differences between ends of an alignment bar are due to tailstock offset or bed twist.  Betwen centres:  Tailstock offset.  Held in chuck or otherwise directly coupled to the headstock mandrel:  Bed twist.

Mostly!

Eddie

On Saturday, 15 June 2019, 03:13:48 BST, Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


Another fellow earlier today said no, an alignment bar between centers won’t do for determining bed twist. Would just be useful for tailstock alignment. A check of eBay shows precision machinists levels starting at less than $30, but “you usually get what you pay for”.

Steve Haskell
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 9:32 PM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Is it possible to discern whether a measurement difference between ends of an alignment bar is due to tailstock misalignment or bed twist?
>
> I guess the first thing is to get the tailstock alignment correct with the tailstock right at at the headstock.
>
> When I got my lathe back about 1968 it had very little bed wear and I have not put too many miles on it.
>
> In practice I have never paid much attention to twist because I do not generally work with long stock.  Years ago I borrowed a precision level from work and leveled the bed.  I moved in 1985 and since the bed had an adjustable tail end base I just loosened the set screws to let it settle out and then snugged them again, tightening each a little at a time, back and forth.  It is on a heavy steel cabinet.
>
> I looked at the Edge Technology web site.  Much of their product line is affordable for a hobby situation.
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
>
> From: Steven H
> Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:09:02 EDT
>
> What you are describing - an alignment bar placed between centers - is one way of checking and setting the tailstock alignment both horizontally and vertically. These alignment bars are commercially available - Edge Technology makes one that is 12??? long. Don???t know if such an item could be used to check for lathe bed twist, but if the idea would work, the bar should be max length the lathe can hold between centers.
>
> Steve Haskell
>
>
>





--
Jim B

Re: Precision level needed or not?

Stephen Bartlett
 

Where would that be found?

Steve Bartlett

Re: Precision level needed or not?
From: Jim_B
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 18:38:46 EDT

When setting up a lathe to remove twisting you do not EVER use a tailstock.
Please read ???Rollies Dads Method???


Sent from my MacBook

Jim B.

Re: Precision level needed or not?

Jim_B
 

Should be in files section.
If not Google is your friend.


Sent from my iPhone-8
Jim B,

On Jun 16, 2019, at 11:26 AM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Where would that be found?

Steve Bartlett

Re: Precision level needed or not?
From: Jim_B
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 18:38:46 EDT

When setting up a lathe to remove twisting you do not EVER use a tailstock.
Please read ???Rollies Dads Method???


Sent from my MacBook

Jim B.


--
Jim B

Re: Precision level needed or not?

Steven H
 

Attached is Rollies Dad's Method of Lathe Alignment and another article on lathe alignment.

Regards,
Steven R. Haskell
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_B <jim@...>
To: SouthBendLathe <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2019 11:57 am
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Precision level needed or not?

Should be in files section.
If not Google is your friend.


-8
Jim B,

> On Jun 16, 2019, at 11:26 AM, Stephen Bartlett via Groups.Io <tower.op=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:
>
> Where would that be found?
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
> Re: Precision level needed or not?
> From: Jim_B
> Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 18:38:46 EDT
>
> When setting up a lathe to remove twisting you do not EVER use a tailstock.
> Please read ???Rollies Dads Method???
>
>
> Sent from my MacBook
>
> Jim B.
>
>
>



--
Jim B


Your Old Time Bookstore Closing Sale EXTENDED - Save 60% site wide!

Steven H
 

YOTB took over the inventory of books from Lindsay Publications several years ago.

Steve Haskell
Troy, MI

Begin forwarded message:

From: Your Old Time Bookstore <youroldtimebookstore.com@...>
Date: June 29, 2019 at 1:00:17 AM EDT
To: stevesmachining@...
Subject: YOTB Closing Sale EXTENDED - Save 60% site wide!
Reply-To: youroldtimebookstore.com@...

**CLOSING SALE EXTENDED!**

Due to the large volume of orders received over the past few weeks,
we have decided to continue sales until further notice.

We appreciate the support from our customers! We've been pleasantly surprised
by the amount/size of purchases and the high percentage of new clients.

We're still closing, but we have a lot of books left in stock.
We hope you'll continue purchasing and sharing our company information
with others who may be interested in our books!

Save 60% off retail price site wide -
(no Coupon Code required!)

Qualifying orders will also be eligible for
Free Shipping**
**(USPS Media Mail, U.S. orders only, minimum order total $100.
Option will appear in the drop-down menu during on-line Checkout.)**

We invite you to visit our website before it's too late!
Books are selling out quickly - order today for the best selection!

Please find our current Category Links below:
·        Aircraft
·        Alcohol
·        Boats
·        Chemistry
·        Drilling
·        Electricity
·        Engines
·        Gag Gifts
·        Hand Scraping
·        Injectors
·        Locomotives
·        Machine Shop
·        Magazine Projects
·        Metal Working
·        Old-Time Machinists
·        Phonograph
·        Photography
·        Power Sources
·        Radio
·        Screw Cutting
·        Shop Equipment
·        Steam
·        Stone Working
·        Telephones & Microphones
·        Telephony
·        Tool Work
·        Valves
·        Vehicles
·        Watch Manufacture
·        Weapons

(You can access our latest Product, Description, and Master Lists at the top.)

**PLEASE NOTE: Our website is accepting orders,
but our office & warehouse are temporarily closed.

Customer Service & Order Processing
will resume Mon., June 24, 2019.**

Thanks for your business -
we appreciate your support!

Your Old Time Bookstore

Re: Your Old Time Bookstore Closing Sale EXTENDED - Save 60% site wide!

Nelson Collar
 

They have been going out business since they bought Lindsey out. I wonder if it is just a ploy they use to sell what they have left over. I wonder????

On Saturday, June 29, 2019, 06:42:48 AM CDT, Steven H via Groups.Io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:


YOTB took over the inventory of books from Lindsay Publications several years ago.

Steve Haskell
Troy, MI

Begin forwarded message:

From: Your Old Time Bookstore <youroldtimebookstore.com@...>
Date: June 29, 2019 at 1:00:17 AM EDT
To: stevesmachining@...
Subject: YOTB Closing Sale EXTENDED - Save 60% site wide!
Reply-To: youroldtimebookstore.com@...

**CLOSING SALE EXTENDED!**

Due to the large volume of orders received over the past few weeks,
we have decided to continue sales until further notice.

We appreciate the support from our customers! We've been pleasantly surprised
by the amount/size of purchases and the high percentage of new clients.

We're still closing, but we have a lot of books left in stock.
We hope you'll continue purchasing and sharing our company information
with others who may be interested in our books!

Save 60% off retail price site wide -
(no Coupon Code required!)

Qualifying orders will also be eligible for
Free Shipping**
**(USPS Media Mail, U.S. orders only, minimum order total $100.
Option will appear in the drop-down menu during on-line Checkout.)**

We invite you to visit our website before it's too late!
Books are selling out quickly - order today for the best selection!

Please find our current Category Links below:
·        Aircraft
·        Alcohol
·        Boats
·        Chemistry
·        Drilling
·        Electricity
·        Engines
·        Gag Gifts
·        Hand Scraping
·        Injectors
·        Locomotives
·        Machine Shop
·        Magazine Projects
·        Metal Working
·        Old-Time Machinists
·        Phonograph
·        Photography
·        Power Sources
·        Radio
·        Screw Cutting
·        Shop Equipment
·        Steam
·        Stone Working
·        Telephones & Microphones
·        Telephony
·        Tool Work
·        Valves
·        Vehicles
·        Watch Manufacture
·        Weapons

(You can access our latest Product, Description, and Master Lists at the top.)

**PLEASE NOTE: Our website is accepting orders,
but our office & warehouse are temporarily closed.

Customer Service & Order Processing
will resume Mon., June 24, 2019.**

Thanks for your business -
we appreciate your support!

Your Old Time Bookstore
Your Old Time Bookstore | 42 S 4080W Rd., Kankakee, IL 60901
Unsubscribe stevesmachining@...
Update Profile | About Constant Contact
Sent by youroldtimebookstore.com@... in collaboration with
Trusted Email from Constant Contact - Try it FREE today.
Try email marketing for free today!

Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

vinnito1@...
 

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Jim_B
 

Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Guenther Paul
 

Jim 
If you cant find a used hand wheel you can get one a McMaster Carr  you may have to do some machining on it

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:09:18 AM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Jim_B
 

Yes you can find similar hand wheels at Both McMasters and MSC. 
They will work but need to be fitted to the Heavy 10 shaft. 
Now a word of caution. SB did not take grate pains when installing taper pins. They are not necessarily on center or perpendicular to the shaft and no two are the same. 

I have been able to match new wheels to old shafts by holding the old shaft in a collet or chuck. Setting my shop made cross drilling attachment to match the angle and offset and then drilling through the new collar. 

If you want I can post a how-to


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Jim 
If you cant find a used hand wheel you can get one a McMaster Carr  you may have to do some machining on it

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:09:18 AM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B


--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Bill in OKC too
 

That would be a good thing for me, and I expect others will agree.

Bill in OKC



On Mon, Jul 8, 2019 at 11:21 AM -0500, "Jim_B" <jim@...> wrote:

Yes you can find similar hand wheels at Both McMasters and MSC. 
They will work but need to be fitted to the Heavy 10 shaft. 
Now a word of caution. SB did not take grate pains when installing taper pins. They are not necessarily on center or perpendicular to the shaft and no two are the same. 

I have been able to match new wheels to old shafts by holding the old shaft in a collet or chuck. Setting my shop made cross drilling attachment to match the angle and offset and then drilling through the new collar. 

If you want I can post a how-to


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Jim 
If you cant find a used hand wheel you can get one a McMaster Carr  you may have to do some machining on it

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:09:18 AM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B


--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Jim_B
 


Ok Bill
First I held the shaft in my lathe. 
(This is a Tailstock Handwheel on an 9” Workshop)
I fitted a drill to the taper pin hole and using a small bubble level I rotated the drill until the bubble was level. (Lock the spindle first,so the part won’t shift after leveling} Level by rotating shaft in chuck/collet.

I then chucked up a proper drill for the Taper Pin reamer in my cross drilling fixture. I matched the height, adjusting the QC tool holder height,  of the cross drilling fixture and drill point to point. 

I rotated the cross drilling fixture so the two drills were parallel.
This picture shows the two drills aligned in height and made parallel by rotating the compound. 

I then removed the drill from the shaft and aligned the cross drilling fixture to be centered in the hole on the draft. 

I mounted the hand wheel on the shaft, securing it wit a bit of Super Glue. Be sure to position it where you want it to be 


Now you can drill through,

You have aligned the drill be wit the hole in the shaft so that should just pass through drilling the closest and furtherest sides of the hand wheel only. 
You should then use a taper pin Reamer to set the taper up.

Questions?

Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 1:09 PM, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

That would be a good thing for me, and I expect others will agree.

Bill in OKC





--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Jim_B
 

One other note. 
I am able to use a bubble level to set the initial position of the hole because my lathe is level not just detwisted. 
If your lathe is not level, note how far off plumb it is and set the initial position to match. 

-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Ok Bill
First I held the shaft in my lathe. 
(This is a Tailstock Handwheel on an 9” Workshop)
I fitted a drill to the taper pin hole and using a small bubble level I rotated the drill until the bubble was level. (Lock the spindle first,so the part won’t shift after leveling} Level by rotating shaft in chuck/collet.

I then chucked up a proper drill for the Taper Pin reamer in my cross drilling fixture. I matched the height, adjusting the QC tool holder height,  of the cross drilling fixture and drill point to point. 

I rotated the cross drilling fixture so the two drills were parallel.
<PastedGraphic-1.tiff>
This picture shows the two drills aligned in height and made parallel by rotating the compound. 

I then removed the drill from the shaft and aligned the cross drilling fixture to be centered in the hole on the draft. 

I mounted the hand wheel on the shaft, securing it wit a bit of Super Glue. Be sure to position it where you want it to be 

<PastedGraphic-2.tiff>

Now you can drill through,

You have aligned the drill be wit the hole in the shaft so that should just pass through drilling the closest and furtherest sides of the hand wheel only. 
You should then use a taper pin Reamer to set the taper up.

Questions?

Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 1:09 PM, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

That would be a good thing for me, and I expect others will agree.

Bill in OKC





--
Jim B

--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Guenther Paul
 

Jim you don't have to post pictures for me but it may be help full to others 

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 12:21:24 PM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Yes you can find similar hand wheels at Both McMasters and MSC. 
They will work but need to be fitted to the Heavy 10 shaft. 
Now a word of caution. SB did not take grate pains when installing taper pins. They are not necessarily on center or perpendicular to the shaft and no two are the same. 

I have been able to match new wheels to old shafts by holding the old shaft in a collet or chuck. Setting my shop made cross drilling attachment to match the angle and offset and then drilling through the new collar. 

If you want I can post a how-to


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Jim 
If you cant find a used hand wheel you can get one a McMaster Carr  you may have to do some machining on it

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:09:18 AM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B


--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

John Losch
 

To all:

I may be walking into it here, but I have to ask:  If a vertical miller is available, couldn’t the hand wheel shaft be loosely fitted into a vise with a vee block, a drill suitable to the shaft hole, held in the headstock, and the shaft and drill manipulated until there is a “free feel" to the drill?  Perhaps a tapered reamer could be “jiggled” to assure alignments afterward.  This might be as sensitive as trying to fit a level in Jim’s procedure.  I would proceed as Jim has suggested, using super glue, spotting center, and drilling very cautiously.  Not as easily, I suspect the same thing could be done with an horizontal miller.  (Lucky me:  I have both.) 

I am probably missing some important point, so have at it.  I am not sensitive to being corrected.

Jcl 




On Jul 8, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Jim you don't have to post pictures for me but it may be help full to others 

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 12:21:24 PM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Yes you can find similar hand wheels at Both McMasters and MSC. 
They will work but need to be fitted to the Heavy 10 shaft. 
Now a word of caution. SB did not take grate pains when installing taper pins. They are not necessarily on center or perpendicular to the shaft and no two are the same. 

I have been able to match new wheels to old shafts by holding the old shaft in a collet or chuck. Setting my shop made cross drilling attachment to match the angle and offset and then drilling through the new collar. 

If you want I can post a how-to


Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 11:01 AM, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Jim 
If you cant find a used hand wheel you can get one a McMaster Carr  you may have to do some machining on it

GP


On Monday, July 8, 2019, 10:09:18 AM EDT, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote:


Try Ted


-8
Jim B,

On Jul 8, 2019, at 9:19 AM, vinnito1 via Groups.Io <vinnito1@...> wrote:

I recently purchased a 1941 10L that has a damaged handwheel on the apron. Does anyone have a spare that they would be willing to sell to me.

--
Jim B


--
Jim B

Re: Looking to buy a handwheel for apron for Heavy 10

Jim_B
 

Yes John a mil could be substituted for the lathe, but you are still stuck finding the correct and\gle and offset in order to drill a matching hole in the hand wheel collar so the taper pin fits both the shaft and the collar without drilling another hole in the shaft. 
Of course drilling a second hole is always an option. 

Sent from my MacBook
Jim B.




On Jul 8, 2019, at 7:34 PM, John Losch <johnlosch32@...> wrote:

To all:

I may be walking into it here, but I have to ask:  If a vertical miller is available, couldn’t the hand wheel shaft be loosely fitted into a vise with a vee block, a drill suitable to the shaft hole, held in the headstock, and the shaft and drill manipulated until there is a “free feel" to the drill?  Perhaps a tapered reamer could be “jiggled” to assure alignments afterward.  This might be as sensitive as trying to fit a level in Jim’s procedure.  I would proceed as Jim has suggested, using super glue, spotting center, and drilling very cautiously.  Not as easily, I suspect the same thing could be done with an horizontal miller.  (Lucky me:  I have both.) 

I am probably missing some important point, so have at it.  I am not sensitive to being corrected.

Jcl 






--
Jim B