Date   

Re: 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

Bill in OKC too
 

You could cut the taper with the compound. Measure at front and back of the thread a measured distace apart and figure out the angle of the taper. Or use a protractor. 

I guess I was lucky twice. No measurable taper on either spindle. I did use three-wire method to measure the threads.

Bill in OKC


On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 11:08 AM, DJ Delorie
<dj@...> wrote:

"Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers=yahoo.com@groups.io> writes:
> I would suggest you make a stub spindle that duplicates the thread of
> your spindle so you have a way to test your backplate as you work on
> it without having to take your chuck or faceplate off the lathe.

I will add to this to measure the actual thread diameter at both ends of
the spindle.  I suspect mine (model 34, also 1-7/8 13") is a bit
tapered, so if I were to make a stub spindle as a reference for the real
spindle, I'd want to replicate this slight taper as closely as I can.

As for HOW to do that, well, I think I'll cheat and just prop up one leg
of the lathe a bit to twist it enough to do the taper.  Not something I
*want* to do, but how else?  My headstock doesn't rotate at all...




Re: 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

Bill in OKC too
 

I'd say taking the chuck or faceplate off and putting it back on is a waste of time. When I cut the stub I was checking the thread every thousandth of an inch. Probably 30 to 50 times. I am a new machinst wannabe, after all. Might be a waste of time for you, but not for us newbies.

Bill in OKC


On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 11:06 AM, Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...> wrote:
Here is a easy way. Set up your back plate for the chuck find out the thread depth of the threads you need to cut, bore out your back plate to the proper size. on the front and back of the hole machine a shoulder 3/16 to 1/4 you can do that with you treading tool. thread the plate and when you get close to the depth start fitting your new backplate to the spindle of the lathe. You do that by unthreading the chuck your using don't remove the new back plate from the chuck your using. When you need to put the chuck back on the spindle the new threaded plate will be in the proper position and you can cut the tread deeper if needed.
Making a stub is a total waist of time

GP

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 1/8/19, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb
Date: Tuesday, January 8, 2019, 11:53 AM

I would suggest you make
a stub  spindle that duplicates the thread of your spindle
so you have a way to test your backplate as you work on it
without having to take your chuck or faceplate off the
lathe.
The photo, if it works, is of the second
successful external thread I've cut since my high school
machine shop class. It is is fitted to the chuck that came
with my "new" SB 10L. The first was for my Atlas
TH42.
Bill
in OKC





On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 10:35 AM,
wrote:  I'm in need of a 4 jaw for a south
bend 13 in with the small internal diameter spindle. Buying
an inexpensive chuck isn't a problem but the backing
plate is. I know that there is a way to make your own but
I'm a brand newbie. I have a 3 jaw now   Can I open up
and re thread a backing plate that is already finished as a
1&3/4 x 8 to the opening for mine which I believe is
1&7/8x8. Or am I over thinking or is that not going to
work. This would be my first attempt at internal
threading. 
Rick 


 






Re: 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

DJ Delorie
 

"Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers=yahoo.com@groups.io> writes:
I would suggest you make a stub spindle that duplicates the thread of
your spindle so you have a way to test your backplate as you work on
it without having to take your chuck or faceplate off the lathe.
I will add to this to measure the actual thread diameter at both ends of
the spindle. I suspect mine (model 34, also 1-7/8 13") is a bit
tapered, so if I were to make a stub spindle as a reference for the real
spindle, I'd want to replicate this slight taper as closely as I can.

As for HOW to do that, well, I think I'll cheat and just prop up one leg
of the lathe a bit to twist it enough to do the taper. Not something I
*want* to do, but how else? My headstock doesn't rotate at all...


Re: 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

Guenther Paul
 

Here is a easy way. Set up your back plate for the chuck find out the thread depth of the threads you need to cut, bore out your back plate to the proper size. on the front and back of the hole machine a shoulder 3/16 to 1/4 you can do that with you treading tool. thread the plate and when you get close to the depth start fitting your new backplate to the spindle of the lathe. You do that by unthreading the chuck your using don't remove the new back plate from the chuck your using. When you need to put the chuck back on the spindle the new threaded plate will be in the proper position and you can cut the tread deeper if needed.
Making a stub is a total waist of time

GP

--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 1/8/19, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Date: Tuesday, January 8, 2019, 11:53 AM

I would suggest you make
a stub  spindle that duplicates the thread of your spindle
so you have a way to test your backplate as you work on it
without having to take your chuck or faceplate off the
lathe.
The photo, if it works, is of the second
successful external thread I've cut since my high school
machine shop class. It is is fitted to the chuck that came
with my "new" SB 10L. The first was for my Atlas
TH42.
Bill
in OKC





On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 10:35 AM,
Sloot2@atlanticbb.net<Sloot2@atlanticbb.net>
wrote: I'm in need of a 4 jaw for a south
bend 13 in with the small internal diameter spindle. Buying
an inexpensive chuck isn't a problem but the backing
plate is. I know that there is a way to make your own but
I'm a brand newbie. I have a 3 jaw now   Can I open up
and re thread a backing plate that is already finished as a
1&3/4 x 8 to the opening for mine which I believe is
1&7/8x8. Or am I over thinking or is that not going to
work. This would be my first attempt at internal
threading. 
Rick


Re: 4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

Bill in OKC too
 

I would suggest you make a stub  spindle that duplicates the thread of your spindle so you have a way to test your backplate as you work on it without having to take your chuck or faceplate off the lathe.

The photo, if it works, is of the second successful external thread I've cut since my high school machine shop class. It is is fitted to the chuck that came with my "new" SB 10L. The first was for my Atlas TH42.

Bill in OKC


On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 10:35 AM, Sloot2@...
<Sloot2@...> wrote:
I'm in need of a 4 jaw for a south bend 13 in with the small internal diameter spindle. Buying an inexpensive chuck isn't a problem but the backing plate is. I know that there is a way to make your own but I'm a brand newbie. I have a 3 jaw now   Can I open up and re thread a backing plate that is already finished as a 1&3/4 x 8 to the opening for mine which I believe is 1&7/8x8. Or am I over thinking or is that not going to work. This would be my first attempt at internal threading. 
Rick 


4 jaw chuck for small spindle 13 in sb

Rj
 

I'm in need of a 4 jaw for a south bend 13 in with the small internal diameter spindle. Buying an inexpensive chuck isn't a problem but the backing plate is. I know that there is a way to make your own but I'm a brand newbie. I have a 3 jaw now   Can I open up and re thread a backing plate that is already finished as a 1&3/4 x 8 to the opening for mine which I believe is 1&7/8x8. Or am I over thinking or is that not going to work. This would be my first attempt at internal threading. 
Rick 


Re: Large Drills in the headstock

rlm_mcv
 

Adapter sleeves are easy to make by turning the compound to the desired angle and hand feeding.  Setup can be accomplished using a dial indicator traveling the length to get a zero reading for the angle.  I have not made an adapter sleeve for a heavy 10 but have made several for 24" and 16" South Bends.  I always make spares when I have the compound set for the cutting.  It seems like someone is always needing one.


On Monday, January 7, 2019, 9:44:56 PM CST, Don Verdiani via Groups.Io <DLVerdiani@...> wrote:


I'm a Heavy 10 guy. I find myself with a bunch of greater than 3/4" #3 Morse taper shank drills and am wondering. I could easily make a sleeve to put #3 MT drills in the S/B spindle. I have a sleeve with a  #2 MT, no big deal to make another for #3.  It means learning to set work up on the cross slide, but I bet I can figure that out. Anyone tried this? Is it worth doing?

Don V.
West Chester, PA


Re: Large Drills in the headstock

Morris Mallard <morrismallard@...>
 


From: "eddie.draper@... via Groups.Io" <eddie.draper@...>
To: "SouthBendLathe@groups.io" <SouthBendLathe@groups.io>
Sent: Tuesday, January 8, 2019 3:07 AM
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Large Drills in the headstock

Assuming you can somehow fit the no3 MT drills in the headstock mandrel, then, whilst you can set jobs up on the cross slide, beware of the large forces involved.  An alternative option is to fit a flat pad into the tailstock and you can use it like a drill press for drilling long members, e.g. angle iron.  A rope from a roof member is probably safer than holding the end, and use the tool post to stop the workpiece pulling forward a long way on breakthrough.

Eddie

On Tuesday, 8 January 2019, 03:50:20 GMT, Roger Bickers via Groups.Io <mr.concrete1964@...> wrote:


Whats the bore size of your spindle? If its the large hole, then get a 13" spindle sleeve adapter, its sized for a #3 mt. Roger


On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 10:44 PM, Don Verdiani via Groups.Io
<DLVerdiani@...> wrote:
I'm a Heavy 10 guy. I find myself with a bunch of greater than 3/4" #3 Morse taper shank drills and am wondering. I could easily make a sleeve to put #3 MT drills in the S/B spindle. I have a sleeve with a  #2 MT, no big deal to make another for #3.  It means learning to set work up on the cross slide, but I bet I can figure that out. Anyone tried this? Is it worth doing?

Don V.
West Chester, PA



Re: Large Drills in the headstock

eddie.draper@btinternet.com
 

Assuming you can somehow fit the no3 MT drills in the headstock mandrel, then, whilst you can set jobs up on the cross slide, beware of the large forces involved.  An alternative option is to fit a flat pad into the tailstock and you can use it like a drill press for drilling long members, e.g. angle iron.  A rope from a roof member is probably safer than holding the end, and use the tool post to stop the workpiece pulling forward a long way on breakthrough.

Eddie

On Tuesday, 8 January 2019, 03:50:20 GMT, Roger Bickers via Groups.Io <mr.concrete1964@...> wrote:


Whats the bore size of your spindle? If its the large hole, then get a 13" spindle sleeve adapter, its sized for a #3 mt. Roger


On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 10:44 PM, Don Verdiani via Groups.Io
<DLVerdiani@...> wrote:
I'm a Heavy 10 guy. I find myself with a bunch of greater than 3/4" #3 Morse taper shank drills and am wondering. I could easily make a sleeve to put #3 MT drills in the S/B spindle. I have a sleeve with a  #2 MT, no big deal to make another for #3.  It means learning to set work up on the cross slide, but I bet I can figure that out. Anyone tried this? Is it worth doing?

Don V.
West Chester, PA


Re: Large Drills in the headstock

Roger Bickers
 

Whats the bore size of your spindle? If its the large hole, then get a 13" spindle sleeve adapter, its sized for a #3 mt. Roger


On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 10:44 PM, Don Verdiani via Groups.Io
<DLVerdiani@...> wrote:
I'm a Heavy 10 guy. I find myself with a bunch of greater than 3/4" #3 Morse taper shank drills and am wondering. I could easily make a sleeve to put #3 MT drills in the S/B spindle. I have a sleeve with a  #2 MT, no big deal to make another for #3.  It means learning to set work up on the cross slide, but I bet I can figure that out. Anyone tried this? Is it worth doing?

Don V.
West Chester, PA


Large Drills in the headstock

Don Verdiani
 

I'm a Heavy 10 guy. I find myself with a bunch of greater than 3/4" #3 Morse taper shank drills and am wondering. I could easily make a sleeve to put #3 MT drills in the S/B spindle. I have a sleeve with a  #2 MT, no big deal to make another for #3.  It means learning to set work up on the cross slide, but I bet I can figure that out. Anyone tried this? Is it worth doing?

Don V.
West Chester, PA


Re: Metric Change Gears for South Bend 16 Single Tumbler

m. allan noah
 

I'm also pretty active here, when life allows :)

The south bend single tumbler machines make it difficult to produce
perfect metric threads, because of all the hardware you have to swap.
But, they make it easy to get close, using a multiple of 17 to replace
a multiple of 18. That makes the leadscrew act like it is 3.3333 mm
pitch, which works pretty well with the divisions and multiples in the
gearbox.

Let us know if you have any other questions, based on that PM thread
martik linked to.

allan

On Mon, Jan 7, 2019 at 12:18 AM Marti <martik777@gmail.com> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Looks like you could cut most common metrics with a 32 and 34 tooth stud gear. (assuming yours is 36, if it's 18, then you'd need a 16 and 17)

See here:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/metric-threads-16-sb-231828/

kitno455 is still active so you could PM him.

I cut all my metric threads by just changing the stud gear on my 9A (no transposing gear set needed) and it has been close enough every time.
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"


Re: Metric Change Gears for South Bend 16 Single Tumbler

Marti
 
Edited

Looks like you could cut most common metrics with a 32 and 34 tooth stud gear. (assuming yours is 36, if it's 18, then you'd need a 16 and 17)

See here:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/metric-threads-16-sb-231828/

kitno455 is still active so you could PM him.

I cut all my metric threads by just changing the stud gear on my 9A (no transposing gear set needed) and it has been close enough every time.


Re: STL files for metric change gears

Bill Libecap
 

Hi Allan

I understand your confusion. Yes I have the standard narrow range double
tumbler gearbox on your 10L, that goes from 4 to 224. My mistake when copying from a previous thread. I have a 20 or 40 gear on the top driving an 80 or 84 idler gear with a 56 on the bottom.

Bill


Metric Change Gears for South Bend 16 Single Tumbler

James Rice
 

Does anyone know what gears or parts are needed to cut metric threads on a South Bend 16 with the single tumbler gearbox?  It seems information is all over the web for the double tumbler lathes and I do know that South bend used to supply a metric gear kit for these lathes but they were always listed as "Inquire for more information" in the catalogs I see scanned into pdf  files.

I'm finally getting back on reconditioning my South Bend 16 after taking several years off to go back to college.

James


Re: STL files for metric change gears

m. allan noah
 

Bill, I am confused. It sounds like you have the narrow range double
tumbler gearbox on your 10L, but I thought that went from 4 to 224
TPI, just like the 9A and 10K?

allan

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:17 PM Bill Libecap <blibecap@gmail.com> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hey Alan
Is there a similar solution for those of us that don't have a 48 tooth stud gear?

I have the gearbox that covers the range of 2 to 112 TPI, I have a 20 or 40 tooth gear on the stud. Are there a couple of gears that we could use and get a selection of metric threads? I have a heavy 10 with a dual lever gearbox.
--
"well, I stand up next to a mountain- and I chop it down with the edge
of my hand"


Re: STL files for metric change gears

Bill Libecap
 
Edited

Hey Alan 
Is there a similar solution for those of us that don't have a 48 tooth stud gear? 

I have the gearbox that covers the range of 2 to 112 TPI, I have a 20 or 40 tooth gear on the stud. Are there a couple of gears that we could use and get a selection of metric threads? I have a heavy 10 with a dual lever gearbox. 


Re: SB9

Nathan Baynes
 

Even if somewhat familiar, I would say just the part on rebuilding the QCGB would be worth the purchase price!! It’s an excellent resource!
Nate


Re: SB9

Bill in OKC too
 

I bought the rebuild kit for my 10L, and the book has already been invaluable, and I've not got the lathe completely apart yet. Just the tailstock, taper attachment, saddle and compound. You might not need it if you've been playing with South Bend lathes for years or decades. I last played with one (and I no longer remember even which one it was) in high school in 1973. Depending on your level of experience, it may not be essential, or it may just be exactly essential.

Bill in OKC

On Friday, January 4, 2019, 1:07:52 PM CST, William Brown <bigwilliebrown@...> wrote:




On Thu, Jan 3, 2019, 12:00 PM Roger Bickers via Groups.Io <mr.concrete1964=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
The tag that people need to see will have "swing", "length of bed", and "catalog no." on it.  Also include a pic of the apron face. 
If your carriage rocks, on the back of the carriage  and underneath it,  there should be a bar with 3 bolts ... tighten the bolts and see if that helps. Also look for a ridge on the front "v" way.... if its enough to catch your finger nail on, thats part of the problem.  
Is your bed width 6 or 7" wide?   Roger 
Unfortunately there is no such tag. My bed is 48 inches long and it is 5 1/2 inches wide. The center of the spindle is 4 1/2 inches above the bed. I have not measured everything on it but I'm pretty sure it's a 9 by 48. The research I've done has convinced me it's late 1938 or early 1939 manufactured date. I'm probably going to buy the rebuild kit off of Amazon and try to rebuild it. 


Re: SB9

Jim_B
 

Before you buy anything you need to know WHICH 9” lathe you have. 
Please post a picture. 

-8
Jim B,

On Jan 4, 2019, at 2:07 PM, William Brown <bigwilliebrown@...> wrote:




Unfortunately there is no such tag. My bed is 48 inches long and it is 5 1/2 inches wide. The center of the spindle is 4 1/2 inches above the bed. I have not measured everything on it but I'm pretty sure it's a 9 by 48. The research I've done has convinced me it's late 1938 or early 1939 manufactured date. I'm probably going to buy the rebuild kit off of Amazon and try to rebuild it. 


--
Jim B

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