Re: Leveling a SB9; Again.

william twombley

I used a matched  pair of "v" blocks on the  "v" ways and a Starrett 199 master level on them. I leveled it out to 0 "ticks" on both ends and center.  The saddle is one tick high on the apron side and one tick high on the tailstock side.  the bed is dead level on every bearing surface. The Connelly book is absolutely worth it's weight in gold!!!!

Surprising how little torque on the pedestal fastening bolts is needed to get the level in... the final adjustment is literally a twelfth turn of the mounting hardware combo. 

I cut a test bar between centers and the taper was between 3 or 4 tenths.  Better than my eyes can see on my mic...way better than my best hopes.

Used Gorilla glue to bond the scarfed leather belt.  First attempt failed ! I think because i didn't dampen the scarf surfaces.  Second attempt successful.  Foamed up real good and seems to be damn strong.

I put a Torrington bearing thrust bearing in the place of the phenolic washer in the headstock. and that really is sweet.  The measured spindle bearing  clearance came out to .0016" and precisely .001" thrust. 

Now If I had a little bigger genset than the 2000 watt Yamaha, I could really get busy. The lathe runs but there is just not enough juice to make a decent cut more than 20 thou.  That is the next project. 

I'm really happy to have my lathe back in good order.  I'm sure glad I resisted the urge to buy a chinese import. 

I still need to slot the "C" leadscrew for  the "B"style apron.  I still thinking about how to set that up.  The bridge port at work has 28 inches of travel. So, I'm thinking of 3 "v"  blocks and  clamps lined up using  a ground 36 inch straight edge.  First Indicate the straight edge on the table  and clamp it. Then set up the blocks and clamp them and the leadscrew. I am thinking of using and endmill and shifting the center block as needed to do the overlap section.  Or would cutting the slot with a woodruff key cutter be simpler?

Thanks for the advice all along the way!!!


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