Re: 9a Reverse Gear Shaft Stuck


Steve Wells
 


I'm in this thread late, but let me clarify a few things for the posters. first I did not write the rebuild books, nor do I sell
them on e-bay, that is Steve Brooks, although our eBay user names are similar and my website must be used for
references, there is no connection between us. As for the question, if his book does not list the wicks in the reverse tumbler
studs or reverse shaft for the 9A Workshop, it is an error, they indeed have felts. the older Workshops used part number
256 x 7 which is a 3/16 round in the studs, the newer used a 256 x 1 which is 1/16 x 1/8, the reverse shaft uses a 256 x 3,
which is a 3/32 x 3/16. I stock both the 1 and the 3, they are $3.00 each, being 24 inches long, so there is enough to do the apron
also. On the older ones you can substitute the 3 for the 7. attached pictures of the reverse shaft and oil hole.
Yes, the shaft is hard to remove after time, DO NOT push or beat on the threads. Make a bushing that slips over the threads
and use this to press with, support the bracket close to the shaft on the reverse side with another bushing, don't spread out the force
on the cast iron.
 
Steve Wells  
 
 
 
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: [SOUTHBENDLATHE] Re: 9a Reverse Gear Shaft Stuck

 

There are felts in my old-style bolt-type reverse lever assembly.

The two tumbler gear shafts (the gears that take turns engaging the teeth on the end of the spindle) have an off-center hole in the outside end. This hole actually angles in to the center of the shaft, where it intersects a cross-wise hole that should have a felt in it (3/16 diameter round, I seem to recall). Oil goes from your can into the angled hole, which saturates the cross-wise felt that caries the oil to the inside of the gear.

I'm not sure that I would understand that explanation if I hadn't written it myself.

My felts were so solid with varnish from 60 years of oil that I had to drill them out with a drill bit spun between my thumb and fore finger.

Like you, I was unable to press out the stud-gear shaft. I soaked the whole assembly in carburetor  cleaner. This cleaned it up (including all the paint). I'm pretty sure that I can see the end of a length-wise rectangular felt on the stud gear shaft. I'm not 100% sure without getting the shaft out, which my arbor press won't do either. I'm not sure how oil gets to it.

The other hidden  or non-obvious feature is a pair of screws at either end of the bolt-slot so that forward and reverse gear mesh can be adjusted.

On 5/22/2014 9:27 PM, mosak@... [SOUTHBENDLATHE] wrote:
 

I really appreciate the advice and Jim B thanks for the photo. So, just to make sure, contrary to the (fantastic) Wells book which uses a newer plunger style as the example, it appears that there are no internal wicks or channels in this old style Reverse Bracket? Thus, there is no need to remove the shaft because there is nothing that needs to be accessed?  Is this all correct?

 

There is a hole above the handle, which appears to be the place to oil the shaft, or is there supposed to be a wick here?  Finally, is the only place for wicks and on the entire thing just the shafts of the twin gears, with an oiling hole on their back?   Thank you so much.

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