It is more likely that, instead of cutting a nice taper you'd end up
more or less with a two diameters piece, with an abrupt change in
diameter when the carbide tool starts to bite into the piece
(cutting from tailstock to headstock) or starts gliding over the
surface (cutting the opposite way).
I don't think Mark has mentioned anywhere that he has used a carbide
Anyhow, hopefully we haven't been very successful in scaring Mark
away and I hope that he will intervene in the discussion by filling
in with missing details.
PS He more or less managed to twist the bed in a way that would
practically eliminate the taper. Therefore, the lathe could have
passed inspection that way.
On 03/11/2014 02:48 PM, Jim B. wrote:
I do know that,
(from my sad experience)
trying to cut an unsupported 6”, or even a 4”
length, with a
carbide tool, using a light cut will result in a
you take the time to
hone/polish it, should not be used for light cuts.
It just skims over the
A nice sharp,
polished HSS tool, with a
rounded point might be OK.
I agree that we miss a few details (e.g.
material of the bar, etc.), but by the
overall description that Mark gave in his
original post, I have the impression
that he knows at least the basics (light
cuts, not a really skinny test piece,
Moreover, at least for me it would be quite
challenging to be able to remove
such a strong taper and cutting true the
whole 5-6" if the taper were
mostly caused by a lousy cutting setup.