Chester Bishop

But, but....I wanna see the CAR! :-)

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 5:21 PM, Jim B. <btdtrf@...> wrote:

This is my first project in a long time. I hope the text and links are OK. Flckr is giving me grief. I think I will go back to Photobucket.




On the TD doors there are a set of sockets used to anchor the side curtains. These hare 1-3/8” long, with a 9/16-20 55 degree thread (BSS) and they have a BSF 3/8 hex. I don’t have a match set. The ones I have appear to be non magnetic but not brass. Perhaps pot metal, chrome plated. I could get some for about $7 each but I have been warned that the after market ones are not very good.

I have been looking at this job for over a month now but just have not been up to it until the last two days.


Since I had a piece of 7/8 303, long enough for the job I decided to make two.


Starting with the Heavy 10, and using a 7/8 collet, I left about 2” of stock sticking out.

I first turned the bar to 11/16 OD for a distance of 1-3/8”


Note that (lower left) I am using a shop made way mounted dial indicator with 2” of travel to measure the step length.


Next I turn a 9/16” by 1-3/16” step.


Using the same approach.

I will need to chase the thread next but first I add a thread relief with a 0.070 wide parting tool.


With the relief in I can start threading but I also add a bevel on the starting end


The first pass was 0.010 ( at 29.5 degrees) deep. The second was the same. Next came a free pass. The third 0.005” and the 4 was 0.004” I then advanced the cross slide 0.0005 and took a finish cut. In the above picture you will note the tool is colored RED. That’s how I tell my BS/Whitworth cutting tools.


I measured the thread using shop made thread wires and compared it to the original I am copying. I adjusted the depth so that the threads match.


With the thread finished I want to drill out the body to 25/64. I start by using a center drill.


Then I drill 1-3/16 deep using ¼” 3/8” and 25/64 drills.


I have not drilled the full length of the socket. There is still about 1/8 or so of material. I am trying to save on material and I will drill form the other end after parting.

I can now part the socket off.


Since I am making several of these I am switching to the 9” Workshop. My Workshop uses 6K collets and I can hold up to 5/8” stock. (This is a shop modification).

I face of the hex end of the socket.


And then center drill through.



And then drill through the entire socket with a 13/32 drill.



Finally I need an internal relief or bevel and I use a countersink.


Now I move to the mill. This is a Burke #4 with a vertical head. I really prefer it in the horizontal mode but it was partially set up this way. My index head takes 3C collets which normally only go to ½ OD stock. However Jeff Beck sells a nice 9/16 3C where the 9/16 portion is about 1” or more deep. I hold the socket in that, Now I need to hold the endmill in the vertical head. That also takes 3C collets. I have a ½” carbide endmill but its too long to fit. The vertical head uses a lot of room. I find a 7/16 Cobalt endmill with a 1/2 “shank. But it’s left handed.

I mill two opposite flats and zero in on the proper width, (0.600).



Then I mill all the flats.


Finally I need to put a bevel on the hex to finish off the looks.


That finished one and I repeated the same process for the second one.

Here are the finished sockets.



Jim B.


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