Re: boring bar


This web site provides a step by step guide and the tolerances recomended.
It is pretty straight forward only requiring basic machining skills and equipment.  Peening the edge of the head over seat in cast Iron heads aids in preventing losing the seat into the engine.  Years ago I put in hundreds only using hand tools and a lathe to make seats if none were avalible.  Using a mill would make it even easier. 
I only remember having one fail.  It was on a 1710 cubic inch Cummings V12 engine that had severly damaged the head by dropping a valve.  2nd attempt required cutting an oversized plug in the head, pining it in and installing the new seat into the plug.  Good luck.

--- On Tue, 6/1/10, morrispu wrote:

From: morrispu
Subject: [southbendlathe] boring bar
To: southbendlathe@...
Date: Tuesday, June 1, 2010, 7:53 PM


I have a OHV 6 cyl. auto engine ( a HOLDEN red 6 motor , a local GM Australia product , many millions built from 1963 4 to early 80's ) with a badly corroded exhaust valve seat . I am planning to make a boring bar and bore out the old seat and replace it with a new seat ..I think a .006 interference fit will do . I will use the valve guide in the cyl. head as a guide for the boring bar

Has anyone done this and possibly can you provide a few tips . The cyl. head is cast iron .

Thanks ... MIKE

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