Re: C to B to A Conversion
gorvil
Thanks Frank,
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I spent about a half hour looking for the pin under a 40 power stereo microscope with a fiber optic light source and I still couldn't find it. I tried magnetizing the shaft and dipping it into a pile of filings to look for anomalies in the flux lines. I tried soaking it in vinegar to see if the pin would etch differently than the collar. I think that the pin healed itself into the collar. I ended up making a new collar and a new pin. The good news is that I finished the conversion. I now have a 9" x 4 foot A as well as my original 9" x 3 1/2 foot A. I also have a some leftover C parts (apron, leadscew, etc.) that are available to whoever might have a need. Glen Reeser
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "frankblack67401" <frankblack@h...> wrote:
It's taper pinned on there, it's just a b***h to find. Apparently they drive in the pin and then file it flush. A good light and a magnifying glass helps. Makin chips Frank --- In southbendlathe@y..., "gorvil" <Gorvil@a...> wrote: Hi All, Well I am half way through the conversion process. I milled a keyway in the leadscrew for my 9" x 4' C and changed out the apron to a clutch type with power cross feed that I got on E-bay. I had the leadscrew here at work for several weeks waiting for our machinist to help me but he could never get around to it. I finally took matters into my own hands. I made a milling attachment from a Taig headstock, a DC motor from a treadmill and a dimmer switch with a full wave rectifier bridge. The Taig headstock is just the right height to match the center of the SB when mounted on the cross slide. Not having a steady rest, I made one out of a 2 x 4 mounted on the base for the tailstock. I drilled for a tight fit with a bit mounted in the lathe chuck. I cross drilled the 2 x 4 for a setscrew to keep the leadscrew from turning when I had to rechuck it to take another pass with the mill. The chuck was clamped to the lathe bed by propping a piece of scrap steel under one of the lathe jaws. I took the precaution of unplugging the lathe motor. It is just too much of a conditioned response to grab the F/R switch when you want to start cutting. The next step is to cut down the length of the leadscrew, thread it and cut the keyway for the drive gear. Does anyone know how the sleeve is affixed to the leadscrew? The documentation from SB says there should be a pin, but I can't find one.
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