Re: C to B to A Conversion


Thanks Frank,

I spent about a half hour looking for the pin under a 40 power stereo microscope with a fiber optic light source and I still couldn't find it. I tried magnetizing the shaft and dipping it into a pile of filings to look for anomalies in the flux lines. I tried soaking it in vinegar to see if the pin would etch differently than the collar. I think that the pin healed itself into the collar. I ended up making a new collar and a new pin.

The good news is that I finished the conversion. I now have a 9" x 4 foot A as well as my original 9" x 3 1/2 foot A. I also have a some leftover C parts (apron, leadscew, etc.) that are available to whoever might have a need.

Glen Reeser

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "frankblack67401" <frankblack@h...> wrote:

It's taper pinned on there, it's just a b***h to find. Apparently
they drive in the pin and then file it flush. A good light and a
magnifying glass helps.
Makin chips
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "gorvil" <Gorvil@a...> wrote:
Hi All,
Well I am half way through the conversion process. I milled a
in the leadscrew for my 9" x 4' C and changed out the apron to a
clutch type with power cross feed that I got on E-bay. I had the
leadscrew here at work for several weeks waiting for our
to help me but he could never get around to it. I finally took
matters into my own hands. I made a milling attachment from a
headstock, a DC motor from a treadmill and a dimmer switch with a
full wave rectifier bridge. The Taig headstock is just the right
height to match the center of the SB when mounted on the cross
slide. Not having a steady rest, I made one out of a 2 x 4
on the base for the tailstock. I drilled for a tight fit with a
mounted in the lathe chuck. I cross drilled the 2 x 4 for a
to keep the leadscrew from turning when I had to rechuck it to
another pass with the mill. The chuck was clamped to the lathe
by propping a piece of scrap steel under one of the lathe jaws. I
took the precaution of unplugging the lathe motor. It is just too
much of a conditioned response to grab the F/R switch when you
to start cutting.
The next step is to cut down the length of the leadscrew, thread
and cut the keyway for the drive gear. Does anyone know how the
sleeve is affixed to the leadscrew? The documentation from SB
there should be a pin, but I can't find one.

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