Re: "new" 10L procurement update


Steve Wells
 

Sandy,
Depending on the conditions you mentioned, I would suggest you make sure you have the
bench or whatever the lathe is mounted on sprayed with a quality substrate epoxy two part
primer. You can have the metal soda blasted without any damage or warping what so ever.
Have the metal etched with a metal treating chemical (metal etch) right after it's blasted,
spray the primer as soon as possible after etching and drying. Most non-sanding epoxy primers allow up to about 8 hours before re coating is needed. We us PPG DP40 or DP90 which comes in a greenish gray, (my choice) black and I believe a reddish oxide color (never used it).
I'm going to be using some of the black this week end for SBL parts primer. This is the best catalyzed epoxy primer I have ever used, and I have an extensive automotive painting background. I would suggest you have this sprayed by a quality collision shop as it contains an isocyanate product and skin protection is a must (isocyanates will absorb through your skin).
You can brush it on small parts as I do, and not have the over spray, but if you want a nice
surface finish on something as large as a bench, it should be sprayed.
On the surface paint, a two part urethane is the toughest finish as far as chemical attack, but as a paint finish gets harder for chemical resistance it gets more brittle and is more chip prone.
If you have any questions just ask, I'll be glade to answer.
We also have a color analyzer, as most high quality collision shops do...you can take a sample of the paint and have it read and the formula sheet will spit right out of the computer.

Thanks for the oiling chart.:)
Steve

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