Now is the time to get old fashioned. Use the reamer with a hand
wrench, like a tee handle tap wrench to clean out any burrs or high
spots. Use a known good #2MT something and some markym dye to find how
you are progressing. It is too easy to cut too much with a machine
feed, do it by hand and take your time.
You can align the headstock to the tail stock when you are done. Chuck
up a piece of round stock and machine a point on the end and leave it
in the chuck. Then align the tailstock to it with a center in the
tailstock. I am assuming that the lathe has been checked for level
before this alignment procedure is done.
--- In southbendlathe@..., "chris_c_willis"
I posted a question some time ago about cleaning burrs from my
tailstock, and the end result was to use a finishing reamer. I am
very new, and I am ready to tackle this. In an ideal world I would
chuck up the reamer in the headstock and use the handwheel to feed
the tailstock quill into the reamer. During restoration of my (Heavy
10) lathe, I noticed that the previous owner shimmed the tailstock.
I still kept the shims, but did not install them during assembly. I
assume that the shims were installed due to wear on the bed close to
the headstock, or that the tailstock is not the original, and doesn't
match the headstock. I don't have a headstock spindle adaptor (yet)
so I can't line up two dead centers between the headstock/tailstock
to see how far off they are.
Now for my question:
Since the alignment between my headstock/tailstock is compromised, I
need to find a better way to clean up my tailstock quill. Enco sells
a Morse Taper "Hand Reamer". Do I just jamb it in the tailstock and
spin it with a wrench/Drill?? This seems too crude, and maybe
someone has some better advice.
By the way I can see a (brand-new) #2 live center move in the
tailstock under a load, which leads me to believe that I don't have a
perfect fit, and need to clean up the tailstock via a reamer.