Re: New Shaft Needs Mating Taper Hole

Carl Bukowsky

Thanks Bill.  I managed to step drill the new shaft for a No. 5 taper pin by vertically aligning my drill press with the pulley hub holes. Then I put the new shaft in the hub and taper reamed both thru holes to size, in place. I did have to fab an 8” extension to lengthen the No. 5 taper reamer to clear the outer pulley.  Only small problem I had was that I left too much shaft stick out and it was rubbing the belt guard ( yikes! ). Thanks to all who helped inspire me to a good solution.  

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On Apr 4, 2022, at 11:46 PM, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:

I've done this op on a bandsaw with a hand drill, in-situ, and it seemed to work fine, but I'd clamp it up if I could.

In that situation the wheel was too large for my tools, but I could get a cordless drill in there well enough -- I just used the wheel pin holes as a guide bushing, drilling the diameter of the small exit hole, roughly, then reamed slightly over size, with a fresh pin. If I remember correctly the pins were over-length anyway, so driving them a little deeper (not much, mind you) wasn't an issue. Reaming took ages, though, because there wasn't room for the tap handles to rotate 360, so there was a lot of handle sliding involved.

On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 8:35 AM William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
Super glue works great as a temporary fixture. Just glue the shaft in place, make sure the glue is hard (I have proceeded to machining before the glue was fully cured and regretted it), then drill and ream. To remove a little gentle heat on the shaft will release the glue. I use this trick all the time in machining. Just make sure you don't get the part too hot while machining or it will come apart (ask me how I know that ☹).
Bill From Socal

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