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On 8/31/21 3:20 PM, Glen Ruch via
Depending on the connection, it is possible the circuit is
running thru the motor commutator thru the motor coil back thru
the commutator to the drum switch. The motor winding could be
read as a short circuit depending on how the Ohm meter is set.
On 8/31/21 12:37 PM, G K via
When checking continuity
with my voltmeter, I am showing a closed circuit between T1,
T3, and T2, T4. Is this expected, or is there an issue
within the motor?
On Tuesday, August 31, 2021, 08:43:13 AM CDT, Ray De
Jong via groups.io <dejongray@...>
The Jumper terminal screws may have
been a bit loose and arcing occurred and the
resulting heat build up probably fried the wire. I
have replaced many receptacles that fried not only
the lead-in conductor but also the inside of the
outlet, all from contacts losing their tension
an/or a loose connection
Working on the SB9
tonight, and smelled a little burn.
Flipped the switch off. looked around
and saw no issues. Flipped it back on
and pop goes the breaker, and smoke
from the switch. I believe the switch
is the original (1942) drum switch.
Unplugged it, and took the cover off
the switch, and the jumper was fried.
No idea why. I'm not an electrician,
but can use a voltmeter. Suggested
120 volt circuit. Furmas
R44, 6-terminal switch, Dayton 3/4 hp
I'm planning on pulling
it apart tomorrow and look for any
additional burned wires, but I do not
believe I will find any from a cursory
look. Then I'll wire a receptacle
directly onto the motor to see if
there are any issues there. If were
good there, I will re-wire the switch
and see what happens. Maybe some
chips got inside and caused a short.
Not sure. Any chance capacitor went
back and caused the short? The only
burn smell is in the proximity of the
switch, but that could be where the
smallest gauge wire (jumper) is