Re: 9" Taper Attachment - Update

david pennington

Nice library.

I'll practice on something before I do my pour.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Bill in OKC too via groups.io" <wmrmeyers@...>
Date: 8/17/21 14:25 (GMT-07:00)
To: SouthBendLathe@groups.io
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 9" Taper Attachment - Update

Hot metal! Yeah!

I have the Illion book on rebuilding the South Bend 10" & up lathes, which should have info on pouring Babbitt for those, the David Gingery book on pouring Babbitt, and the Magnolia book on Babbitt. Should be able to figure it out eventually. Also have melting pots & ladles.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 02:49:42 PM CDT, david pennington via groups.io <davidwpennington@...> wrote:

The upside to J-B Weld is it's room temp and quick.

The downside to J-B Weld is it's awfully hard for the next guy--or me, if I mess up--to remove. :)

I like playing with molten metal...

David W. Pennington
720-442-3744

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 01:29:10 PM MDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

The Rotometals site I mentioned earlier states the pouring temperatures are 645-915 degrees F. Melting points are around 450 degrees F, but they need to be hotter to pour properly.

Yes, I think you'll need to remove the old paint, probably better before you pour.

You could probably use plumbers solder if it's just fixing the part in place, but unless you already have the solder  it would also probably be cheaper to do it correctly.

I've got a Heavy 10L for restoration, and managed to scrounge/trade/buy Babbitt, plumbers bar solder,  ingots of lead wheel weights, linotype, & chunks of lead pipe. I'm going to try to do it right.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 01:51:46 PM CDT, david pennington via groups.io <davidwpennington@...> wrote:

The melting points I've seen are in the 700-800 deg F range.

The point I did not bring up has to do with the paint. I cannot reasonably expect the factory paint to withstand that temperature, can I? If true, then I should make a point of removing all paint before applying heat to melt the babbitt.

David W. Pennington
720-442-3744

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 12:43:57 PM MDT, david pennington via groups.io <davidwpennington@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill.

In this case, the babbitt merely freezes the location of the rod connecting the clamp to the main body of the taper attachment within the clamp itself.

I can probably salvage the babbitt that runs out, as far as that goes.

David W. Pennington
720-442-3744

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 12:39:43 PM MDT, Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

David, you can buy Babbitt metal from Rotometals.com, or possibly at a junk yard, where it often winds up in with the lead. Pretty sure JB Weld won't work if it really needs Babbitt. Stuff isn't cheap new, about \$28-35/pound, but for what you need, a pound is probably all you need. Instructions on how to pour it are on their website, too. There are other places to get it, that's just the one easiest for me to send you.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)

On Tuesday, August 17, 2021, 11:05:32 AM CDT, david pennington via groups.io <davidwpennington=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi, Folks,
The taper attachment is now installed and operational. There's just one major task left to do. (After I'm completely satisfied, I'll drill the dowel holes into the carriage.)
In the factory method of installation, the clamping bracket is the last thing to be connected. It has two little holes in the top and was supplied with a block of babbitt. The final step was to melt the babbitt and to pour it into one of the holes.
Since my attachment came off of another lathe, it will not surprise anyone that the fit of the clamp is off by a little bit--0.02" or so--so that it binds at one end of the travel. There's no question that I need to melt the existing babbitt and let it run out. The question is whether to attempt to re-pour the babbitt or to use some "modern" material, such as J-B Weld.
Your thoughts, as usual, will be much appreciated.
BTW - the pin with the knurled top, that was cotter-keyed into the clamping bracket, is a perfect fit for the screw hole in the cross-slide, and vice versa. I continue to be impressed with how well the SB folks thought things out.
I'm also amused at some of the design details, for example, the spacing of the two threaded holes in the clamping block is in fractional inches.
Dave
David W. Pennington

On Monday, June 21, 2021, 10:17:53 AM MDT, david pennington <davidwpennington@...> wrote:

Hi, Folks,
I have a taper attachment that is missing a minor part and a couple of bolts and washers. I've "finally" decided to complete it and to install it on my 1946 9C. (The missing piece is a simple steel block with a tapped hole to clamp the fixed end bracket to the lathe bed. I figure 2" x 2.3" x 0.5" should do it.)
I've looked at several videos on Youtube, including Tubalcain's TIPS 561. He showed an exploded parts page.
There is a pin on the fixed end bracket. I cannot figure out its function.
A. Anyone got the SB literature on this thing?
B. Do we have a library somewhere? I've never tried to access it.
Thanks,
Dave
David W. Pennington