Re: Getting my SB 9C working

david pennington

Here is the switch mount on my 9C. Sadly, the original motor came to me in pieces, so the switch is not wired up for the "temporary" replacement.

-------- Original message --------
From: Mark Moulding <mark@...>
Date: 12/17/20 21:43 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Getting my SB 9C working

[Edited Message Follows]

@mike allen: I thought of using a torque wrench when loosening the bearing clamp screws, but figured that mostly I'd get the initial "sticktion" reading rather than the actual torque.  Maybe if I re-tightened it immediately after it breaks free, that would be a close value to use.  I'm beginning to think that it's not that critical, since the bearing tightness will mostly be determined by the shims, which I'm not planning on removing,  I like the idea of using the vent holes to introduce the solvent into the bearings, rather than just the oil cups - that should get directly to the place it's needed the most.

@Dave Pennington: Your idea of not loosening the bearings at all sounds a bit scary, especially for reassembly.  I like the idea conceptually, but am not sure that I have the guts...  I'm also trying to figure out where to mount the power switch.  My dad just used an old light switch screwed to the bottom of the bench (I mentioned that he didn't have any extra money), but I picked up an original South Bend barrel-type reversing switch from eBay.  I've variously seen it mounted on a stalk from the motor countershaft bracket (older models), from the left-hand back-gear cover like yours (this vintage, but usually the model A), or on a way clamp in front of the headstock (this vintage, models B and C; no change gears to get in the way).  I'd love to locate that little way clamp...

Mark Moulding
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear

Join to automatically receive all group messages.