Re: 9A lever collet closer - spindle pin
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I'm sure it will say somewhere in the instructions for milling on a lathe, LIGHT milling. Hold the cutter in the 3 jaw chuck or a proper milling collet holder as used on a miller (as below), not the collet system that is designed for holding workpieces for turning etc.
I have always had satisfactory results off my Myford ML7 (7" swing) using the good and concentric 3 jaw, the only drawback being the low spindle speed in relation to small diameter cutters. It soon tells you if you are overdoing it! Conversely, I have recently used a solid carbide 16mm 4 flute cutter to reduce the height of a mild steel surface and it quite happily took a quarter turn of the 8 tpi leadscrew as depth of cut, so long as I didn't wind the feed too quickly and took due regard of the direction of thrust against the traverse screws so it didn't jump. The trickiet job is ball end millers. The same job needed a quarter circle radius cutting with a 10mm cutter. I roughed it with an ordinary cutter first and initially, the follow on profile cuts would take 20 thou quite happily, but finishing across the full profile allowed only about 2 - 5 thou at a time.
Apologies for the mixed units. The price differential between metric sized tooling, screw threaded components etc. and Imperial ditto becomes greater by the minute. Most of the time, it makes no odds whatosever to the job.
On Friday, 10 July 2020, 04:18:21 BST, v.gearheardt@... <v.gearheardt@...> wrote:
Milling cutters are high speed steel and no Collet or chuck is going to hold them. Lathes are not mills! If you are insistent is using your lathe to hold mils you need to use a MT end mill holders and add a drawbar as previous thread states correctly. I set up an Atlas and all it wa good for was milling 3/16" keyways, which I can do just as well freehand with a die grinder. If you want to surface flat stock use a 4 jaw and a face tool.
THe right tool for the right job!