Re: Will a 9-A leadscrew work for a 9-C to
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why don't ya do it on the lathe with the follower rest
& a die grinder with a nice new endmill in the tool post
On 4/2/2020 2:00 AM, Mark Moulding
Having done a little more research, I now have a new concern.
Firstly, I think I probably could cut the keyway on the lathe,
certainly with the milling attachment, but I could also probably
figure out a way to do it without. With the attachment, it
certainly wouldn't be painless, but I don't think it would be
bamboo splinters either. But I have that table-top mill, and
although I'd still have to do it in sections, I don't think it
would be too bad.
But my new worry is what happens to the lead screw after I cut the
slot. I'm assuming this was hardened at least a bit (maybe
case-hardened?), and probably stress relieved - at least until I
remove an asymmetrical amount of metal from it. I bet it's going
to turn into a nice bow, and I can't see how I would easily get it
back to more-or-less straight again. It looks to me like a *very*
slight deviation from straight might be tolerated, because the
driven worm is suspended by bearings that might force the lead
screw back into line, but it sounds pretty icky (and I'm not sure,
either - I was just going from a drawing, since I haven't taken
mine apart yet).
Another related question: how long is the bed of a 36" lathe? The
serial card for mine claims it's a 3' lathe, but the bed is
exactly 42" long - which is it? (Just in case I do find a lead
screw on eBay...)
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu
table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear
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