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[SergentEng] RE: RE: RE: Re: New Sharon couplers

Mike Conder <vulturenest1@...>
 

Be careful with the Rustoleum, a friend recently tried it but it never cured/dried completely.

I got something similar from Home Depot, Krylon brand, that I used on something else. It did take 15-20 minutes to dry to the touch.

Mike Conder
Sent from Yahoo! Mail for Windows 8

From: jzook@... <jzook@...>
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Nov‎ ‎29‎, ‎2013 at ‎1‎:‎01‎ ‎PM
To: <SergentEng@...>
Subject: [SergentEng] RE: RE: RE: Re: New Sharon couplers

Hi Dale,

Thank you for providing this information. It's very helpful for what I'm looking for. I was thinking great care is needed to make sure the NeoLube doesn't get on the ball bearing (a problem I created for myself with a different lubricant when I first tried out Sergent couplers), so thank you for confirming.

I liked the suggestion from Mike of putting graphite onto the tip of a yellow micro-brush to get it into the crevasses of the knuckle. I think i may try that first before purchasing NeoLube, since I currently have both the graphite and yellow micro-brushes.

Also, reading through Sergent's website, they have good instructions for painting the coupler components first before assembly. It just so happens I have a can of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer that I'm using for the anti-foul color of a model ship I'm building.

Have a great weekend!

Jon



---In SergentEng@..., wrote:

Jon,


I seem to be the one that started this whole Neo-lube thing. Yes, this is the stuff you can get from MicroMark or PBL. I think it's way better than the pencil lubrication trick. The stuff is microscopic Graphite and it flows into every nook and cranny all on its own! It will go places the sharpest pencil can only dream about. Neo-lube also has the side benefit of blackening the couplers which is pretty great in itself.


I built 10 of the Sharon types last night for Blackstone cars as a test. You see not all of the Blackstone draft gear boxes are of the same exact dimensions. The only car that the Blackstone specific Sharon's will not drop into is the boxcar. The draft gear box is a bit shallow and the pivot pin is a bit thick. So you need the 4mm tapered reamer to open up the couplers pivot hole and the shank needs to be thinned a tiny bit with a file.


I'm still a little reluctant to get any Neo-lube directly on the little ball bearing. Neo-lube is made of 3 components, microscopic Graphite, a polymer, and alcohol. The alcohol is the carrier and a polymer usually denotes a binder, I.E. GLUE! Not knowing the specific nature of this polymer I am advising not getting on the little ball. This may be nothing but, why take chances!


Dale Buxton

vulturenest1@...
 

Update: went to the garage, and looks like I was using the Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.  Going to try it on my Sharons this weekend.


Mike Conder



---In SergentEng@..., <vulturenest1@...> wrote:

Be careful with the Rustoleum, a friend recently tried it but it never cured/dried completely.

I got something similar from Home Depot, Krylon brand, that I used on something else. It did take 15-20 minutes to dry to the touch.

Mike Conder
Sent from Yahoo! Mail for Windows 8

From: jzook@... <jzook@...>
Sent: ‎Fri, ‎Nov‎ ‎29‎, ‎2013 at ‎1‎:‎01‎ ‎PM
To: <SergentEng@...>
Subject: [SergentEng] RE: RE: RE: Re: New Sharon couplers

Hi Dale,

Thank you for providing this information. It's very helpful for what I'm looking for. I was thinking great care is needed to make sure the NeoLube doesn't get on the ball bearing (a problem I created for myself with a different lubricant when I first tried out Sergent couplers), so thank you for confirming.

I liked the suggestion from Mike of putting graphite onto the tip of a yellow micro-brush to get it into the crevasses of the knuckle. I think i may try that first before purchasing NeoLube, since I currently have both the graphite and yellow micro-brushes.

Also, reading through Sergent's website, they have good instructions for painting the coupler components first before assembly. It just so happens I have a can of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer that I'm using for the anti-foul color of a model ship I'm building.

Have a great weekend!

Jon



---In SergentEng@..., wrote:

Jon,


I seem to be the one that started this whole Neo-lube thing. Yes, this is the stuff you can get from MicroMark or PBL. I think it's way better than the pencil lubrication trick. The stuff is microscopic Graphite and it flows into every nook and cranny all on its own! It will go places the sharpest pencil can only dream about. Neo-lube also has the side benefit of blackening the couplers which is pretty great in itself.


I built 10 of the Sharon types last night for Blackstone cars as a test. You see not all of the Blackstone draft gear boxes are of the same exact dimensions. The only car that the Blackstone specific Sharon's will not drop into is the boxcar. The draft gear box is a bit shallow and the pivot pin is a bit thick. So you need the 4mm tapered reamer to open up the couplers pivot hole and the shank needs to be thinned a tiny bit with a file.


I'm still a little reluctant to get any Neo-lube directly on the little ball bearing. Neo-lube is made of 3 components, microscopic Graphite, a polymer, and alcohol. The alcohol is the carrier and a polymer usually denotes a binder, I.E. GLUE! Not knowing the specific nature of this polymer I am advising not getting on the little ball. This may be nothing but, why take chances!


Dale Buxton