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[SergentEng] Installing Sergent E-type couplers on Walthers Mainline SW-1

Andrew
 

*not should be now...

On Sep 24, 2016, at 9:28 AM, "AP ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

Hello all,
I am continuing my conversion process of my locomotive fleet.  I am not getting to the locomotives that needed overset/under set couplers to fix coupler height problems.  Has anyone installed an E type coupler on an Walthers SW-1, and has anyone had issues with the resulting coupler height?  Is there a way of raising the coupler height on that locomotive? 

Thanks
Andrew Porter

Nathan Rich
 

Most times things seem to line up if you put them where they look right. If you need to raise a coupler you could file the pad that the box screws to down a little and be ok. Test fit it before you do anything though. You may be surprised to see you don't need to do anything.

Most of the coupler height issues I experienced with Kadee couplers were more due to the couplers drooping than anything. What really made coupler height critical with Kadee couplers was the trip pin, which I used to cut off most of the time anyway. The trip pins would catch on trackwork or grade crossings (which does happen sometimes to the big guys with a drooping air hose) if they were low. Even if they were up to a third the height of the head different they would stay together. I find that the tensioner spring that goes inside the body of a Sergent coupler prevents drooping, and due to the tighter tolerances of the couplers they are far less likely to bypass each other. If some things are just a little outside the notch on your Sergent height gauge, they'll probably still be ok. Tightlock passenger couplers are not as forgiving, they need to be on spec but E's are pretty forgiving.

Real couplers have a range of heights  that is acceptable to be within, and if things always bypass at a certain spot on the layout I would investigate the trackwork in that spot.

Happy Railroading
Nathan Rich


On Sep 24, 2016 06:34, "Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
> *not should be now...
>
> On Sep 24, 2016, at 9:28 AM, "AP ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
>
>>  
>>
>> Hello all,
>> I am continuing my conversion process of my locomotive fleet.  I am not getting to the locomotives that needed overset/under set couplers to fix coupler height problems.  Has anyone installed an E type coupler on an Walthers SW-1, and has anyone had issues with the resulting coupler height?  Is there a way of raising the coupler height on that locomotive? 
>>
>> Thanks
>> Andrew Porter
>
>

Andrew
 

This definitely isn't a drooping issue.  Im using underset shank at the moment.  There is no vertical play in the coupler.  It matches perfectly to the coupler height gauge.  I was considering filing down the top of the shank on the E type coupler and using a shim underneath to get the coupler head up a bit in the locomotive.  I might also try filing the pad underneath as you suggest.

Andrew

On Sep 24, 2016, at 1:48 PM, "Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

Most times things seem to line up if you put them where they look right. If you need to raise a coupler you could file the pad that the box screws to down a little and be ok. Test fit it before you do anything though. You may be surprised to see you don't need to do anything.

Most of the coupler height issues I experienced with Kadee couplers were more due to the couplers drooping than anything. What really made coupler height critical with Kadee couplers was the trip pin, which I used to cut off most of the time anyway. The trip pins would catch on trackwork or grade crossings (which does happen sometimes to the big guys with a drooping air hose) if they were low. Even if they were up to a third the height of the head different they would stay together. I find that the tensioner spring that goes inside the body of a Sergent coupler prevents drooping, and due to the tighter tolerances of the couplers they are far less likely to bypass each other. If some things are just a little outside the notch on your Sergent height gauge, they'll probably still be ok. Tightlock passenger couplers are not as forgiving, they need to be on spec but E's are pretty forgiving.

Real couplers have a range of heights  that is acceptable to be within, and if things always bypass at a certain spot on the layout I would investigate the trackwork in that spot.

Happy Railroading
Nathan Rich


On Sep 24, 2016 06:34, "Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
> *not should be now...
>
> On Sep 24, 2016, at 9:28 AM, "AP ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
>
>>  
>>
>> Hello all,
>> I am continuing my conversion process of my locomotive fleet.  I am not getting to the locomotives that needed overset/under set couplers to fix coupler height problems.  Has anyone installed an E type coupler on an Walthers SW-1, and has anyone had issues with the resulting coupler height?  Is there a way of raising the coupler height on that locomotive? 
>>
>> Thanks
>> Andrew Porter
>
>

Nathan Rich
 

My larger suggestion is to 'dry fit' the installation before you file anything down. You might be apprised to find that it is close enough on the Sergent height gauge that no further modification is necessary. As I said previously also, real coupler heights aren't perfect.

Another thing that I also try to do is to pull the head as far inboard as possible to where it starts looking better. One other thing that I find in my travels is that model manufacturers push the couplers out so that trip pins clear pilots and plows, and it just bothers me. The coupler sticks out into the next county on some of these. I think this is one of the biggest reasons why I love Sergents so much, you can make things look so much better. The other problem then is that sometimes it requires drilling a new mounting hole.

Keep us posted though!

Nathan

Andrew
 

Bachmanns GE 44T is a definite candidate for a shortened shank coupler or possibly re-drilling.  


My concern about the mismatch stems from I was planning on using the SW1 for coach yard operations/passenger terminal. 

Andrew

On Sep 25, 2016, at 4:26 PM, "Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

My larger suggestion is to 'dry fit' the installation before you file anything down. You might be apprised to find that it is close enough on the Sergent height gauge that no further modification is necessary. As I said previously also, real coupler heights aren't perfect.

Another thing that I also try to do is to pull the head as far inboard as possible to where it starts looking better. One other thing that I find in my travels is that model manufacturers push the couplers out so that trip pins clear pilots and plows, and it just bothers me. The coupler sticks out into the next county on some of these. I think this is one of the biggest reasons why I love Sergents so much, you can make things look so much better. The other problem then is that sometimes it requires drilling a new mounting hole.

Keep us posted though!

Nathan

Nathan Rich
 

Since the SW1 has an E coupler on it, as long as it is within about a third head height it will be fine. The passenger cars (should) have H couplers, but since the E has none of the tightlock stuff on it, it isn't critical to be exact. In fact, that is why you use an E coupler in the break-in process for the H couplers as you need to work it up and down to catch the tiny bits of flash that persist sometimes and to distribute the graphite.

Nathan

On Sep 25, 2016 1:39 PM, "Andrew Porter ihtsbih_2014@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:
 

Bachmanns GE 44T is a definite candidate for a shortened shank coupler or possibly re-drilling.  


My concern about the mismatch stems from I was planning on using the SW1 for coach yard operations/passenger terminal. 

Andrew
On Sep 25, 2016, at 4:26 PM, "Nathan Rich thaddeusthudpucker@... [SergentEng]" <SergentEng@...> wrote:

 

My larger suggestion is to 'dry fit' the installation before you file anything down. You might be apprised to find that it is close enough on the Sergent height gauge that no further modification is necessary. As I said previously also, real coupler heights aren't perfect.

Another thing that I also try to do is to pull the head as far inboard as possible to where it starts looking better. One other thing that I find in my travels is that model manufacturers push the couplers out so that trip pins clear pilots and plows, and it just bothers me. The coupler sticks out into the next county on some of these. I think this is one of the biggest reasons why I love Sergents so much, you can make things look so much better. The other problem then is that sometimes it requires drilling a new mounting hole.

Keep us posted though!

Nathan